sam uk

Ferodo FDB1562 - 350z rear brake pads for brembo setup.

I purchased these from zmanalex about a year ago and never got round to fitting them before selling up.

These have the same pad compound as the Brembo aftermarket and as a bonus they come with new noise reduction anti squeel shims fitted.

They cost me £45 + postage

Yours for £35 + postage

My backing plates are rubbing when I turn left.

I've cringed long enough now, do it's time to fix it.

Any tips?

I've got a feeling this might be a quickie

I have 3 mint sets in stock and I can fit them for u

They look nice and clean Lee.

Can you send me a price?

Oh bummer, I wasn't aware of any anti theft compatibility issues. Sounds like I need to do a bit of research.

Thanks

Standard stereo for a 54 plate 350z. Will take a Bose unit if it comes with the bits needed to convert from standard.

Must be in full working order.

Must fit 54 plate 350z (to replace my cloth seats) and in good condition.

I'm a big fan of hammerite, should do the job nicely.

Are these easy to remove?

I'm unsure of the name of the part, but the small metal arm which connects the wiper arms to the motor has gone corroded and scruffy looking.

http://db.tt/2VTox0kD

Are these cheap and easy to replace?

Thanks for the advice guys.

I'll see if I can find out when the last change was from Nissan.

Hi guys,

I've been putting up with my gearbox on a 54 plate for a while now. It's not whining to badly but 1st and 2nd gear are a bit notchy to get in to.

I'm thinking of getting this sorted in Feb but I'm unsure which route to take.

1) get a new gearbox (I'd image this is very expensive)

2) buy a salvaged buy from a low miles car

3) buy a recon box

4) get my existing box recon'd

I'm interested to get your opinions on this.

Hi guys,

My brother has put his full set of Rays alloys up for sale on ebay, so I thought I'd help out and post a link on the forum.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-350Z-RAYS-ALLOY-ALLOYS-FULL-SET-/280803305367

Great wheels as you know. I'd have them myself if I didn't already have some

A dealership getting it right! Christ we should have them stuffed and mounted! (Toby excepted of course!)

A couple of weeks ago I mde a post after having issues after cleaning the throttle body and moving the butterfly.

http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=55949

After getting some good responses i set about doing the idle air learning proceedure. After successfully completing the pedal proceedures (several times) the idle was still high, i had lack of power and the engine was running rough.

I got in touch with a local dealership who told me the car needed an idle air reset using their machine. Being slighly skeptical i dropped in early and the technican plugged it in, cleared some codes and reset the idle air learning. I was in and out the dealership in 10 minutes.

The car now idles and runs spot on. One other problem that it has also solved is that it now never stalls from a cold start, which i'm really chuffed about.

I thought i share my experience, just incase others have a similar issue.

Top marks to Murley Nissan

Oh crap... Just realised i did an ecu reset instead of the idle reset.

I take it the ecu rest doesn't reset everything?

Been out for a gentle 10 minute spin and the engine light has stayed off, but there's definately a strange feel. The revs still seem to stick for a few seconds at around 1500 revs and the car seems to jump slightly when changing gear.

Should I expect to drive it a bit more after the idle reset before things return to normal?

I've just reset the the idle and the engine light is now off.

So far so good. Going to take it for a spin later to check everything is ok.

One thing i noticed whilst stationary is that even the slightest touch on the accelerator causes the car to rev and hold for a couple of seconds at 1700 rpm.

Is this normal?

Being new to the forum and the car it's been great to get so much friendly advice. Thanks guys

If its not just an idle reset, check your maf is screwed and in place. and clean that with maf cleaner then idle reset.

 

Got some CRC maf cleaner on order but going to hold fire that until I check the pipes and do the idle reset. I'll update this post tomorrow after i give it a go.

Thanks Alex i'll sleep a bit better tonight

If its not just an idle reset, check your maf is screwed and in place. and clean that with maf cleaner then idle reset.

Got some CRC maf cleaner on order but going to hold fire that until I check the pipes and do the idle reset. I'll update this post tomorrow after i give it a go.

If you moved the butterfly while cleaning it , it may need recalibration

 

Guide for this can be found http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=55272 here but check everything is back on good and tight first.

I definately moved the butterfly whilst cleaning.

Did you do all the resetting procedures? Last time I cleaned my TB and moved the butterfly valve I had a really high idle and lumpy acceleration because it knocks it all out of sync.

 

I did the ECU reset, Throttle valve position learn and accelerator position learn (they're called something like that!). Maybe if you don't do them after tinkering around the TB after a while it realises it's wrong and you get the light come on?

 

Hopefully it's something as simple as that!

Sounds hopefull. No I have not done any resets what so ever. I've seen the proceedures instructions before and some seem a bit hit and miss. Should i just disconnect the battery overnight?

I'm pretty sure it's all back together nice a tight, but i definately check again in the light to make sure.

Worried that it might be something more serious.

Hi guys,

I've added a new k&n panel filter this weekend to replace the old dirty standard filter. Whilst i was on the job i decided to give the throttle body a clean in situe. I loosened off the pipe and maf and used a microfibre cloth and removed a lot of black crap from around the butterfly.

After making two short journey's i noticed the power didn't seem as smooth. On the third journey the engine management light came on as i set off, joined by the esp light and the power seemed to back right off.

Is there a likely cause of this? I'm kicking myself at the moment because i feel i've done more harm than good.

Since having an after market back box fitted I've had loud vibration noise from the rear of the car. I could only really hear it low revs or from cold starts so I thought I'd have a look around to see if I could find anything rubbing.

Under the rear drivers side there is a metal cover/shield which was just about touching one of the back box hangers on the rear drivers side. I can only think the hangers on he after market box are slightly longer than the factory box.

First thing I did was remove the shield from the car, which came off quite easily with just a few nuts without jacking up the car. I'm not sure if the shield is really needed on the car as is doesn't seem to cover a great deal. That said I still still didn't want to loose the shield completely.

You can see three lines marked on the cover. The centre mark is where the hanger had been rubbing on the shield. The top and bottom marks are where I cut out the section of the shield to stop the rubbing. I used an angle grinder to make light work of it.

After putting it all back together and quick test and problem solved!

I hope this comes in handy for others who may have the same annoying rattle.

Thanks for your advice guys