adamsclan

Many thanks for all the comments and help - much obliged!

Definitely have to get the car up on the hoist again to ascertain just what is rusted. The MoT failure clearly says subframe corroded but perhaps the garage meant something different.

Maybe I'm a bit confused about what parts are actually rusted but without being able to get underneath and have a good look, I'm stuck.

Should have taken pics of the rusted areas when the garage had the car up on the hoist! Can't take it to the garage now as it's off the road. I'm surprised you say it is aluminium from what I recall of the holes in it.

My 2004 model coupe, 76k miles, 100% reliable, fitted with APS turbo kit just failed its MoT due to rusted subframes, front and rear, and chassis rust where these parts connect. Are replacement parts available? Such a shame and such a waste to scrap it when the rest of the car is in very good condition.

So, at last my trials and tribulations seem to be at an end. After a 450 miles night-time run back from Aylesbury to Dundee, fault-free, averaging 73 mph, 32 mpg, I am pleased to say my little car is fully functioning again. My thanks to all who have contributed to this topic, especially for the phone conversation with Keyser. My special thanks have to go to Dave and Jake of DS Automotives in Aylesbury who found and fixed the problem. Thoroughly reccommend this company for their knowledge, workmanship and last-but-not-least their charge rates - very reasonable! To my fellow club member somewhere near Perth who deigned not to accept my apology for a perceived slight in past history, nor communicate, your loss! Here's to hopefully a few weeks of winter motoring, on winter tyres needless to say, and some fun

I'm pretty sure it is the rather sub-standard wiring as shown above. When not misfiring, the engine pulls to 6k rpm no problem and runs normally.

Cheers dear friend with the knowledge of all - and generosity of spirit ( referring to the £1 voucher!)

Damn! That's cost me 2 £1 vouchers! Thanks to you as well. Age 60 - memory going - all dowhill from here!

There are actually 3! Pink at top of screen as well!

I cannot believe any "performance tuning" enterprise would turn this out as a professional finished product. Dave at DS Automotives discovered this mess after I trailered my car 450 miles to hopefully fix the misfire. I am kicking myself that I did not have the cohonies to investigate the ecu/piggyback set-up myself, but as I stated previously I'm not confident about the electronics side of cars especially with engine management systems. So - thank you WRC Tech who fitted the APS kit for a very poor wiring install. Don't get me wrong - the actual kit installation is faultless. No leaks, nothing interfering with any other components, no chafing cables or hoses. Why do such a crap job on this element of the install? How this lasted 6 years and 38k miles is amazing - perhaps super strength insulating tape! Keyser gets the winning prize of a £1 voucher to Top Girl as he suggested I examine the ecu/piggyback connections - so thanks for that. Just wish I'd done it. Ah well. Getting the whole car checked over to make sure all is well, the looking forward to my 450 mile trip back to Dundee. Bit of snow would be nice! Cheers.

http://s1308.beta.photobucket.com/user/the_dice_man/media/350Zpiggybackconnections_zps8c8b89c3.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0 Comments?

I had already been on to Shiply and received some reasonable quotes the cheapest being 20% of the £1,200 I was quoted by a local company - not sure whether that included 2 nights at the Aylesbury Sheraton!!After some consideration, I am going to trailer it down on a trailer hired from McIntosh of Brechin - £39 per day. Given the nature of the fault(s) on the car I think it is best to talk face-to-face to try to explain all the various cut-outs/misfires/non-starts. The choice of company appears to be between DS Automotives in Aylesbury, the only APS dealer or Abbey Motorsport who seem to be very highly rated in various repairs/tune-ups on this forum. Have to get the de-mountable tow-bar on my X3 to work first though. Shame I can't use a more local company but there you go! Cheers Honestly if I was you take it to Abbey. I know they arent cheap and stuff like that but trust me they will fix the car for you. Mark is always helpful and knows his stuff. I dont let many mechanics near my car as most are crap but I would leave him with the keys no problems. I do get that they are miles away but they WILL most likely fix it for you. There would be nothing worse than getting it 400miles away to another garage who doesnt know. Good luck with whatever you do mate Thanks for that. I'll give them a call Monday. You never know, they might be open. Hell of a trip this time of year! Cheers

I had already been on to Shiply and received some reasonable quotes the cheapest being 20% of the £1,200 I was quoted by a local company - not sure whether that included 2 nights at the Aylesbury Sheraton!!After some consideration, I am going to trailer it down on a trailer hired from McIntosh of Brechin - £39 per day. Given the nature of the fault(s) on the car I think it is best to talk face-to-face to try to explain all the various cut-outs/misfires/non-starts. The choice of company appears to be between DS Automotives in Aylesbury, the only APS dealer or Abbey Motorsport who seem to be very highly rated in various repairs/tune-ups on this forum. Have to get the de-mountable tow-bar on my X3 to work first though. Shame I can't use a more local company but there you go! Cheers

I'm doing my best! I'm happy to offer the olive branch in the hope of peace on earth, goodwill ....etc. I draw the line at the mistletoe though! Indeed you are sir! Good on you. I wish I could help but the mods to your car are way above my station! Good luck! Trouble is they're way above mine!!

I'm doing my best! I'm happy to offer the olive branch in the hope of peace on earth, goodwill ....etc. I draw the line at the mistletoe though!

I thoroughly appreciate the advice given to me by all the members who responded and would hope I have responded accordingly. But when I no longer required the said item, some 17 months ago, I was not aware the trader would then refuse to have any future dealings with me. I cannot recall wasting anyone's time nor "just try to use me for getting free info to then go off and do it themselves". Anyway I guess I shall just have to pursue a solution to my car's problems in some far-flung place. Pity - potentially time & travel saved for me and business for another. The offer of communication to resolve is still on the table. And thanks for your assistance.

Having recommended you to approach Alex, knowing his experience with TT conversions and that he was relatively local, I since understand you have previously sought his advice but chose other options after pm exchanges so I think you will need to continue to look elsewhere. I may well be a relative novice to this forum re postings, pm's, etc. but it strikes me as a sad state of affairs when one is stopped from being helped because a previous situation was resolved via another route. Perhaps I didn't show the proper etiquette - as it turned out, the problem i pm'd Alex about wasn't actually the problem. So what does this mean? I can't communicate with Alex re any future need for parts or repairs when he seems the ideal chap to help? Having been in business previously for some 25 years it doesn't seem very helpful or sensible from a business point of view. Alex, if you feel slighted by my previous communications I can assure you no slight was intended. Tell you what, phone me on 01382 737769 if you want to have the creck!

Sent pm to Zmanalex as suggested by a member. Hopefully he will be able to help me in my quest! Is his broadband still playing up?

If you pm me your phone number perhaps I could give you the feedback/info you require. Thanks for your help.

FPR standard unit has been replaced "In order to ensure precise fuel pressure delivery at high horsepower levels, a 4.0 Bar fuel pressure regulator replaces the stock 3.5 Bar unit. In addition the APS fuel pressure regulator is vacuum/pressure referenced to the engine's intake manifold, therefore the regulator is mounted on the outside of the stock fuel pump/sender unit - and housed in a custom high flow housing assembly. In this way, fuel pressure across each injector orifice is maintained at a constant level regardless of the turbocharger boost pressure level - a configuration as found in the world's best turbocharged high performance production engines. Best of all, the restriction caused by the stock 3.5 Bar regulator is removed completely and a new custom replacement plug is included to facilitate this". Quote from Air Power Systems website.I am really struggling with the details you describe as I am a complete novice when it comes to FI systems. I thimk I have fairly well described the nature of the intermittent fault but there may well be stuff going on which I do recognise as inportant or would give further clues. A specialist nearby would probably be the best eay to go. I live in Dundee and the conversion was carried out by WRC at Silverstone now unfortunately defunct. DS Automotives are now the only company in the UK to carry out the conversion. All I wanted was a bolt-on system which gave better accelaration and was (as proven for 35k miles) reliable.

As I discussed with Keyser, The crank sensor wire supplied with the APS kit appears not to have been fitted (shielded to stop any EM scatter) or else has been spliced into the wiring away from the crank sensor - why I have no idea. The problem is that there is now only one dealer for APS ie DS Automotives, some 450 miles away. I have been trying to find a tuner nearer to my home in Dundee who would be knowledgeable enough to ascertain whether it is an ECU/piggyback problem, but to no avail. I shall try Keyser's suggestion but if it is as you say can you suggest a solution. I noticed that the crank sensor wire goes into the same sleeve as the exhaust lambda sensors, which is what the kit-supplied separate shielded cable is to prevent. There is no way I have sufficient knowledge or courage to try to separate wiring systems or re-wire components. The question remains why should the car/TT kit work perfectly for 35k miles/5.5 years then do this? On 2nd thoughts I'll just be happy for someone to fix the problem. Cheers Just been having a read of the APS blurb about the kit fitted, it appears to use an American unichip, with non user editable maps, a rising rate FPR, and did you say it was fitted with a MAP sensor? and is this used instead of or in conjunction with the AFM? The non connection of the crank sensor should have no effect if its never been connected, i would guess that side is all handled by the std ECU, there are a number of things that will effect how the engine runs, but as your problem is intermittent it limits the possible causes, the first thing that you can check is the vacuum line to the FPR, although i doubt thats solely responsible, but the reg itself could be, As i said before the AP piggyback will almost certainly modify the std Lambda feedback signal in order to fool the std ECU into thinking that its still running the pre programed AFRs when its really running much richer fueling, so that is certainly a place where things could also go wrong, however if the std lambda sensors are going outside the expected readings it should show up via a fault code, Its a difficult one to diagnose without more info, i have no problem with piggybacks in general ( and have used several in the past to very good results) but i am not a fan of these all in one kits that use a piggyback made and mapped by a third party. I was told by Dave of DS Automotives that APS do now use a Unichip but my kit was supplied with the previous engine management piggy-back. I have no idea what make it is as it had only the APS logo on it.I'm assuming the crank sensor is still connected though thro' the original wire and not the replacement kit-supplied shielded cable, else why would APS have this cale specifically included in the kit. I'm going to show my ignorance now but what is the "FPR"? Your reference to MAP, I think I was referring to the MAF - mass air flow sensor - maybe a typo on my part! I have found a company called RS Tuning not far from my home and I recall Keyser referring to them. Does anyone have knowledge of them? I have no wish to question their professionalism or skills it's just that it seems so many of the so-called "tuning" companies are iffy to say the least.

I've considered this but can't find anywhere locally to get this done. Anybody with any ideas?

As I discussed with Keyser, The crank sensor wire supplied with the APS kit appears not to have been fitted (shielded to stop any EM scatter) or else has been spliced into the wiring away from the crank sensor - why I have no idea. The problem is that there is now only one dealer for APS ie DS Automotives, some 450 miles away. I have been trying to find a tuner nearer to my home in Dundee who would be knowledgeable enough to ascertain whether it is an ECU/piggyback problem, but to no avail. I shall try Keyser's suggestion but if it is as you say can you suggest a solution. I noticed that the crank sensor wire goes into the same sleeve as the exhaust lambda sensors, which is what the kit-supplied separate shielded cable is to prevent. There is no way I have sufficient knowledge or courage to try to separate wiring systems or re-wire components. The question remains why should the car/TT kit work perfectly for 35k miles/5.5 years then do this? On 2nd thoughts I'll just be happy for someone to fix the problem. Cheers

This sounds like the way I am thinking. Any chance we could have a chat? So much better than bloody typing! Cheers. PM On it's way Many thanks for your time chatting tonight. I shall investigate further tomorrow. Hopefully a solution is imminent! Cheers