craigmdennis

I think I've found what they're called now. "Nissan OEM A-Pillar Finisher Screw" https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-nissan-oem-a-pillar-finisher-screw-nissan-350z-03-08-z33-08543-51242_p_28270.php

I've not had much success from the local parts department. I'll give them a call tomorrow and see how I get on. Thanks

Could you please tell me what I should be asking for? Thanks

I've searched the forum (and Google) but can't seem to find replacement trim screws that go into the centre console (the ones you have to remove in order to remove the Bose headunit. Does anyone know what they are? Where I can order some replacements? I appear to have lost a couple. There appear to be some gold and some grey. Thanks

Yeah that's what I think I'm going to have to do. Everything is aligned bracket wise.

Reviving the thread as I've just bought and fitted the Sony XAV-AX100 into my 2005 Zed and I have a question about the fitment and facia. Perhaps I have it misaligned but there seems to be more space at the bottom than at the top. The facia that came with the head unit doesn't fit (due to the spacing issue) and the 350Z Double DIN facia adapter that I bought just in case won't allow the head unit through (seems to be a little small). I'll try and post some images tomorrow but wondered if anyone who has fitted one could offer some advice. Did anyone run into similar issues?

TL;DR it was the cheap sensor from eBay that failed within 2 weeks. Swapped it out with a genuine sensor and all is running well again. Often the simplest explanation is the right one. My biggest concern is that Nissan didn't even bother to check the integrity of the sensor. I specifically told them that I'd replaced the sensors but wasn't sure that they were the cause. They instead took this to mean I was 100% sure it wasn't the cause; maybe some miscommunication on my part. Either way, sorted now! Thanks

I don't think they were, my Dad ordered them for me. I think it was one of these (remember him briefly showing me) Would that actually make a difference? Other members have had issues with after market CPSs Well best to rule that out first before I have to spend £££

I don't think they were, my Dad ordered them for me. I think it was one of these (remember him briefly showing me) Would that actually make a difference?

Afternoon all, I randomly had an engine warning light on a couple of months ago, bought a cheap reader and it listed 1078 as the fault code. I found (on this forum) that it was related to the cam sensor on bank 1. It turns out it was a connector issue to the sensor (one of the pins had come loose). I bought new sensors anyway and replaced them before I realised the connector pin was the issue. The engine light went out and all was well for a few weeks, until... I was driving on the motorway and the whole car lost power. The dash lit up with the engine warning light and the ESP TC lights on. Now the error code shows as 0340 which is identified as 'Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor).' After much head scratching, I took it to Nissan for a diagnostic. They guess it's the timing chain (a post on here say that's not likely to be the case) and want £600 to just confirm whether that's true! I have no intention of getting them to do any work beyond diagnostics. Can anyone: a ) shed light on what the cause might be? One post suggests it could be the coil pack or flywheel b ) recommend a Z-friendly garage in Kent that I can get to take a look? Any help would be appreciated

Hey guys, Since I've installed my new headunit I have no more need for the bluetooth adapter so I'm getting rid. Thought I would post it here to see if anyone wanted it. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-350Z-Official-Bluetooth-Phone-Adapter-/200748848694?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item2ebd905636#ht_500wt_1246 £50 starting bid. Will probably go cheap. Cheers.

So I completed my install this weekend. Surprisingly simple when you have the correct wiring diagrams. I took the plug that came with my head unit and cut the wires where some of the existing connections were using connectors (so I can crimp my own connectors on it should I change the rest of the stereo). Then I spliced together the cables from the PAC box with the cables from the head unit. For the most part the colours were the same. Was left with 4 or 5 not connected. Phone call mute and high level speaker outs. Then I ran a firmware update (just drop the files onto a USB stick and plug it in the back - easiest update ever). Now I can share my iPhone's data connection and get internet radio. And this is the final install. Looks pretty good. At some point I'm going to drill a hole in the back of the little cubby underneath and feed the iPhone physical cable & USB extension lead through so things can just sit there. GPS unit is currently just sitting on the dash. Haven't found the right place for it yet. I may just take it out completely as the map app is @*!# for a car. Also need to put the mic in but need to route the cable somewhere.

Hey, yes I have installed it but not fully (sub not connected as I'm keeping the factory speakers / amps / sub so currently very quiet). I'm installing one of these at the weekend:http://www.shipsound.com/PAC-ROEM-NIS2-NissanInfiniti-Premium-Radio-Replacement-Kit_p_9640.html which should restore my bass I will take some pics and review it then with some info on wiring it up to factory (although I don't even know how yet). It's really nice though. The 'sat nav' is poor though. It's just google maps with no turn-by-turn navigation. Also there is no steering wheel control adapted yet. Parrot have told me one is planned later in the year.

Ok, so it appears that the sub may actually be working but just very very quietly (unless the rear speakers have some bass to them). Could the be possible? Could it be related to different output from the new HU? I have been reading a lot about speakers being quite when adding just a new HU? Some to do with different Ohms. I think the best option is for me to gut the whole system and buy all new components, sub and amp. I'd still like to use my sub in the meantime though :S

So... I recently installed a Parrot Asteroid single DIN into my zed and after overcoming some initial issues: viewtopic.php?f=27&t=59617 have managed to get it working... almost. The sub is doing nothing. Seperate issue so needed a separate post. I have search for a few hours on this already, no luck so far. The new HU has dedicated sub L+R RCA connections so I suspect they need to be wired into the existing loom. The only trouble is I don't know which wires to splice into and convert to RCA. Any help would be appreciated. Here is what I've got: So this is connected to the standard 350z harness adapter. The floating blue wire (ACC) has been connected properly. So which wires, from which connector block do I need to splice? Does anyone know or has anyone done this before?

OK so looking though a pdf from the previously posted link. I have found this: . Does this mean I need to splice some RCA ends to an orange & a white wire? I had a look and there are a number of wires that are those colours.

haha, I appreciate the thought. No rain here atm so I'm going to have look see. Also found this (I know it's on another forum *slap on wrist*) : http://www.350z-tech.com/wiki/index.php/350Z-TECH which seems quite comprehensive.

So now I just need to identify which wire is the audio to the sub. Anyone know the answer? I'm looking for wiring diagrams as we speak. Will take the cover off the amp to see if that gives me any clues.

Yes it is, is has Sub L+R, Front L+R, Rear L+R. Looks like more research needed.

Awesome. Got sound now. The ACC wire from the HU was actually red :S which made me nervous. But the HU had a handy wiring diagram printed on it Very nearly there, sound quality is so much better! The only issue now is that I'm not getting as much bass from the sub. The HU has seperate pre-outs for direct sub control but these aren't being used at present. So the subwoofer control features of the HU don't work. If I mess with the equalizer I can boost the low range but that also sends it to the speakers. Nearly complete though. Thanks to everyone who has commented!!

Yeah, I think this is the issue Now just to find out which wire to splice with which. I did, but I'm not sure which is which. Are the Yellow / Black front or rear? I would imagine rear. Strange but the headunit didn't enable the 'fader' option only the 'balance' option meaning it didn't detect any rear speakers even though the Front & Rear RCA were plugged in.

Haha! Yeah, I did. Posting this question was my last option. I'll look back over the guide but I'm sure it only mentioned splicing the earths together.

Hmm... I have done no cutting or crimping, just plugged and played. That was one of my suspected reasons though. I'll have to check if there are any erroneous wires that are not part of the connection block. I think I saw a Bose wiring diagram on here somewhere. Will have a look.

Hey guys, I am in a spot of bother. I have just installed my new head unit, the Parrot Asteroid. I have done a few installs but never from a factory HU to aftermarket. There is power to the unit and everything works except there is no sound. I have followed all the guides on here (which are awesome!) but now need some more specific advice / help. So, what could be causing my lack of sound? I have a 2005 GT with Bose system. I have kept the existing amp and speakers. I'm not maintaining steering wheel controls as nobody makes a Parrot Asteroid adapter yet so I bought the standard harness to RCA adapter: I have connected everything from the adapter harness to the existing wiring (there's only one way they all fit together) and then I have the red / white / yellow & black RCA leads. Now the guides on here state that these should be plugged into the front / rear RCA out on the new head unit. But no combination of these works. (I though that yellow was video and black was both L&R audio anyway, are these actually the rear audio cables? - can someone confirm?). The only things I can think of are: - The sound is playing but is really quite? But I've cranked it up to 100 and still nothing. - I have done nothing special to provide an extra earth for the HU (such as splicing in extra wire to connect to the chassis) as the HU powers up fine and I read somewhere the aerial earths it. Could this cause the amp not to turn on? - Something to do with the accessory wire? Do I need to splice this with another wire to get the HU to tell the amp to turn on? Any pointers from anyone in the know would be immensely helpful. I can provide any pictures that would be of use. Thanks.

Can you elaborate on this a bit? Did he manually crimp wires together or did it retain control just by connecting to the existing loom (doubtful).