HassanZ

Mine's on it's original clutch and flywheel. Previous owner had it for 8.5 years and confirmed the clutch/flywheel was never changed, he purchased it with barely any miles on it. It's just ticked over 91k I believe...

I thought this was a very rare occurrence but after seeing this thread I'm beginning to think this clutch lifespan is very common!

I had to zip tie the cables under the passenger seat on my old Zed as adjusting the seat regularly triggered the warning light. Once the cables were secured using zip ties the problem never reoccurred.

Its all about the koenigsegg doors now imo, which is a much more modern take on vertical opening - You will never be able to get it on a Z though as most of the tech is proprietary.

I can see this door hitting a curb regularly lol

It goes outwards and then drops below the height of the car.

It won't show up as a NISMO on the V5. Itll show as a 350z as usual. That looks aftermarket to me

I appreciate all your advice guys. I could just get my current mesh sprayed Matte Black as the bodyshop has offered to do that for me but I thought I'd get a fresh one. There's nothing wrong with the current grille, it's just discoloured due to rust. I did consider a plastic one like tone one suggested above but would it hold up as well as a metal grille?

E Bay,

I bought some cracking Z badges in brushed chrome, beautiful and match the door handles and Rays alloys

They also do bright chrome

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350Z-Z-LOGO-BADGE-EMBLEM-FOR-350Z-350-Z-FAIRLADY-GT-/181733126440?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a50237128

Even better than original

Fit the bonnet and boot perfectly

Really appreciate the help and advice mate. I purchased a pair of these for my previous 350z in a satin silver but black blotches appeared all over them after some time due to the weather I believe. I purchased the badges from this exact seller. Let me know how yours hold up, maybe they may have improved the quality?

I got mine from Ewen. Great service

My car is going in for a respray in 2 weeks and I was either planning on doing the front bumper badge removal or replacing THE current OEM badge to make it immaculate again.

The reason I'm hesitating on doing the badge delete is that I've heard the filler can start to sink in over time which I wouldn't want to deal with.

For this reason I would either want a Z burger badge or an OEM badge in immaculate condition.

I appreciate your help guys.

Hassan

PM'd

Hi all, I am looking to remove the front bumper and replace the black grille covering the hole. I'm assuming the current mesh is metal as the original black colour is beginning to turn a rusty brown colour. It is currently zip tied to the bumper.

I am looking for a good quality one that will last a long time and won't corrode I've time.

Can anybody please advise me on what grille mesh they have used in their NISMO N1 front bumpers?

Also what is the best way of securing this grille without having to use zip ties?

I appreciate all your help guys

Many Thanks,

Hassan

I work at the hospital. I just use their medical gloves

Do they provide a forum discount? Going to place an order as my strut's strength are non-existent!

You wouldn't want to floor it down that runway unless you're wishing for a full respray!

As I said, adjust the pedal first, it's just been recently talked about and iirc there is a guide for it to.

Try that, see how it goes for a little while.

 

(I'm just saying that's what I'd do first btw)

Yes that would be me

PM'd

It was a great pleasure meeting you matey!

Pm'd

Mine's due one soon seeing as it's just ticked over 91k miles on it's original clutch!

Wow I wouldn't mind you boys changing my clutch too ;-) LOL!

you can adjust a bit more until the slack is off, and the clutch still returns as normal,as long as you can feel i have my pedal just level with brake.... but i have put on a new clutch and flywheel, so there may be a little difference in adjustment between us....

 

i glued a piece of plastic onto the blue block to take up the space to make the switch, or you can adjust the switch length more... i managed about 2 threads on the switch before it became tight...there is a little slack in the wires behind which you need to tease a little bit so you can adjust it without over twisting...

Thanks for your response mate.

I've decided to leave it incase I begin to create unecessary problems. The bite point is way better, feels more like a 'normal' car, maybe 3-4 inches off the floor until it hits bite point?

I believe I'm due a new clutch soon. It's reached 91k on it's original clutch!! How much difference do you think it'll make to the bite point after a clutch and flywheel change?

I've been told not to reduce the clutch pedal too much before a clutch change as after the clutch change their may be problems with the master cylinder? Something about fluid not getting to some of the ports as the pedal is too low?

How many threads are showing on yours?

Thanks for your input guys, I've just readjusted the pedal. I raised it by about 2 threads. The clutch pedal is now returning normally and there is some travel on the clutch until it hits bite point. Although I'd like it lower but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Now the blue block is stopping right before it hits the black cruise control sensor button (can't see a gap between the blue block and the black button that pushes in). The thing is the clutch pedal is slightly above the brake pedal. My current adjustment looks like the original poster's adjustment on the main clutch adjustment thread.

Do you think I could adjust it any further without causing any issues?

Many Thanks

Got my Zed 3 days before my 23rd birthday. Insurance is with Elephant and around £1800 with 3 years no claims and a clean licence. Comparing with some of the others here, I guess that's what having an L postcode does to your premium...

Mine is also an L postcode. Ridiculous prices!

Great idea Bradders, well done!

I carried out the clutch pedal adjustment yesterday but I think I've overdone it! Now the clutch engages/bite point engages almost instantly from removing the pedal off the floor (which I like) but I am scared that the clutch may still be engaged even when depressed and therefore riding the clutch due it not completely releasing. However upon test driving the Zed, it didn't seem as though the clutch was riding when changing gears. There is now very little travel between the clutch pedal being depressed and being released. As soon as the bite point has engaged, the pedal has already reached the fully released position which makes me think the clutch is still engaged when I've taken my foot off the clutch.

Another issue I've experienced is the fact that the pedal keeps sticking and requires manually pulling back up again to return back to fully released position. Upon test driving, this didn't seem to be an issue as it's sticking past the full clutch release point, but I may be incorrect.

Do you have any ideas of what I could use as a spacer to plug the gap between the cruise control sensor and the bolt? Do you think a block of rubber (pencil rubber) and super glue will be sufficient over the long term?

This DIY was the most painful and frustrating I have experienced on a car by far! Haha!

Photos of the current pedal adjustment and the resulting cruise control sensor gap are below:

Haven't seen Zmanalex on here for a while.

 

He was online 9 minutes ago.

Lol stalker!