Jump to content

Watshot

Members
  • Posts

    603
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Watshot

  1. General consensus amongst forum and pros alike, is that any decent drop in panel filters are hard to beat, with nothing to be gained from swapping out the standard intakes which obviously work well.

     

    As luck would have it, I have just listed in the 'parts for sale' section, a pair of K&N's from my (now sold) HR, which are 8000 miles old and have never been (or needed to be) cleaned or re-oiled, at a considerable saving over new (£45 inc. p&p.) If that's of any interest the link is here: http://www.350z-uk.c...hing-must-go/��

     

    Shameless plug I know, but the advice is sound... :blush:

    • Like 2
  2. Two items remaining. First dibs go to the first response on this thread whereupon I will pm payment details etc.

     

    Cheers.

     

     

    Still For Sale:

     

    Cover Zone Sahara Indoor Tailored Car Cover.

     

    350Z Rear Deck Lid Badge/Lettering. Original Satin Finish. FREE! (See condition below).

     

     

    SOLD:

     

    Philips Silvervision Indicator Bulbs X2 (NEW IN BOX). SOLD

    RDX Stubby Aerial. SOLD

    380RS Pedal. SOLD

    Genuine Cargo Net. SOLD

    Hydraulic Bonnet Lifters. SOLD

    Nismo Radiator Cap. SOLD

    K&N Panel Filters for HR (8k miles only). SOLD

    Z Centre Caps for Rays Alloys. SOLD

    DS 2500 Performance Brake Pads, Front Axle Set (Just 3.9k miles). SOLD

    Magnetic Sump Plug. SOLD

    LED Rear Foglight Bulb (For 'cleared out' foglight) (NEW IN BOX). SOLD

    Nismo Ratcheting Oil Cap. SOLD

    350Z Badge/Lettering. Chrome. SOLD.

    Electronic ScottOiler. SOLD.

     

    Everything together.

    th_DSC06121_zps6ehbegch.jpg

     

     

    Original Satin finish boot lettering. The 5 and 0 have been damaged, but the 'Z' is perfect and free to good home! £1 covers P&P.

    th_DSC06075_zpsvxfypcj1.jpg

    th_DSC06077_zpsaim6va3a.jpg

     

    Cover-Zone Sahara Indoor Car Cover. Tailored fit for the 350Z. In excellent condition with instructions and bag. £35 inc P&P to U.K.

    th_DSC06117_zpsq6nyzmfp.jpg

    th_DSC06030_zpsbyef1jm1.jpg

  3. CAR NOW SOLD. THANKS.

     

     

     

    I am selling my Zed after nearly seven years of ownership. It is the HR final edition (313ps) first registered in September 2007.

     

    It has just over 11,000 miles on the clock (2500 when I took ownership) and is in exceptional condition, as you might expect.

     

    In between outings it lives in a dehumidified garage. When we do use it, it tends to be for long distance trips so suffers no 'low use' ailments.

     

    It is a U.K GT coupe in Ebisu Metallic Black with black leather.

     

    GT means it has electrically operated, heated leather seats; cruise control and the upgraded Bose sound system with subwoofer.

     

    Factory/dealer fitted extras include: Colour coded splash guards, stainless steel sill trims, rear parking sensors, phone system including adapter module and 350Z embroidered mats.

     

    The Bose system has been modified to enable ipod/mp3 playback through the tape source (as per the guide on this forum). Also has a genuine Nissan boot divider.

     

    Run exclusively on Super Unleaded and Fuchs Race Pro S oil. Serviced annually which averages about every 1200 miles. Major service in 2013 including plugs and all transmission oils. Coolant every three years, brake and clutch fluid every two years. Battery just replaced as a safeguard due to age before any faults appeared, although it is kept on a conditioner so was probably unnecessary. Bridgestone RE050 'A' s all round with good tread. Mot passed yesterday (28/09/2016). Never had any advisories, all mot's and service receipts available. All keys/manuals etc. present and correct.

     

    This is an exceptional car with no dents or dings whatsoever. I would take the bus rather than park it next to a stranger...

     

    Private plate has been removed and replaced with the original '57' plate. Located near Banbury, North Oxfordshire.

     

    Any questions please PM me. Thanks.

     

    Price: £12500.

     

    th_DSC05202_zpstlgmyshe.jpg

     

    th_DSC05952_zpsw3sx2sxs.jpg

     

    th_018_zpswcqybv6z.jpg

     

    th_008%202_zpsjowz65vx.jpg

     

    th_DSC05993_zpsvqbiimmi.jpg

     

    th_DSC05984_zpsufhsjtex.jpg

     

    th_DSC05927_zps8tljyzi6.jpg

     

    th_DSC05940_zpspbugopiy.jpg

     

    th_DSC05988_zpsyadpx6bf.jpg

  4. Only person echoing in here seems to be you buddy.

     

    Exactly. That was the point.

     

    I have the conversion. I know how it works. Unfortunately the info quoted is not entirely accurate.

     

    1 & 5 are the same thing, like I said, mirrors fold when the doors are locked. 3 is wrong, fairly obviously, if the car is off and locked, then unlocking it unfolds the mirrors. That's kind of the whole point of the operation. Other operations can be affected by the switch position rather than leaving it in the centre/off position. But that's as standard.

     

    Point was, that what the op appears to be asking, and what the Flyboy mod achieves, are two different things. Hence my first post, to prevent confusion, not to start a bickering thread.

  5. The Flyboy mod operates when the central locking is activated from the remote, if that's what you mean by applying power to the car.

     

    Op wants operation when ignition is switched, hence not the Flyboy mod. If that's what he intended. Bit of an echo in here...

  6. Flyboy mod works with the remote, lock/unlock.

     

    Op is asking if they can be folded when ignition is turned on/off.

     

    Not sure what benefit that would have over the more usual remote fob operation, but I'm sure he'll be back to elaborate.

  7. I'd noticed that the autodrop was only moving the glass a couple of mil rather than the 10mm it is supposed to drop when opening the doors. Both doors affected the same. Moves back up on closing okay.

     

    So tried reset, obviously. No joy. Stripped motors and regulators to check for binding or any other issues. History wise, not touched since new, eight years old, just coming up to 10k, so not exactly worn out. Thought maybe lack of use may be problem hence strip down etc. No issues there.

     

    Key point is; it's happened to both windows simultaneously, not sure over what period, which would suggest BCM issue.

     

    Anyway, upon testing the motors, it was found that the gear would rotate about 60 degrees when dropping, but 150 degrees when lifting. When in situ, the glass can be 'assisted' to drop to the requisite 10mm position. I would assume that the motor would turn the gear the same amount for both directions as the glass would need to move by the same amount up and down as the door is opened and closed.

     

    So, have both motors developed a similar fault at the same time? Unlikely, but easy fix.

     

    Or, is the BCM sending a duff signal to both doors even though they are not necessarily used at the same time, and everything else controlled by the BCM appears to work normally? Would a new BCM need Nissan Consult to programme it to the vehicle etc., i.e. megabucks and garage visit........ :cry:

     

    Bit of a specialist one I'm afraid, so the usual "smack it by the speaker" and "have you done a reset?" won't apply. :lol:

     

    Cheers.

  8. How does this film work with polishing/detailing etc.?

     

    Obviously the paintwork is perfectly clean before application, but normally with exposed paintwork you can impart a level of shine or whatever depending on your preference and the product used.

     

    Is it simply cleaned at the washing stage and that's it? Just curious as to how this fits into the whole detailing world that is prevalent on the internet.

  9. Yeah, okay. The forum's here to help everyone, and there have been some that broke clips, we try to be inclusive :lol: .

     

    It's a simple piece of information that will help some avoid the unnecessary time and expense of buying replacements. You don't have to be so defensive about something that's not aimed at you :thumbs: .

  10. When I started reading this thread I thought you were referring to "traffic officers" or as I heard from a highway maintenance guy once call them "motorway Wombles" :lol:

     

    Traffic Officers, they're based at the top of our lane at the council depot, they usually attend to breakdowns where there is no hard shoulder (On The A55/A494), minor accidents things like that, their main job is to keep traffic flowing. They carry a variety of things to help them but don't have any police powers or ANPR but their vans have blue lights and look like police vans. I believe they are employed by VOSA but work in conjunction with the police

     

    Pete

     

    Highways Agency Traffic Officers use various combinations of amber and red lights, plus alternating headlights, for different circumstances. They asked for blue lights when the units were formed, but they were not allowed. Blue lights are only for emergency vehicles, e.g. Police, Fire, Ambulance, Bomb Disposal, Mountain Rescue.

  11. Arch clips are easily removed intact.

     

    If you continue to pull the centre pin, the clip will tighten up again, hence why people then get frustrated and break them.

     

    Pull the pin about half way to a position which allows the legs on the clip to compress and pull through the hole without resistance.

    I don't do frustration, been an engineer for my living, it's simply a material fetieuge issue. I don't just snap them off for the laugh and expense, most are OK but some are simply weekend by the elements.

     

    It's just help for those following. Nobody's knocking your guide. People have been ripping those clips out for years, every now and then we just remind them of the correct way to remove them. (*weakened by *fatigue aside ;) ).

  12. Arch clips are easily removed intact.

     

    If you continue to pull the centre pin, the clip will tighten up again, hence why people then get frustrated and break them.

     

    Pull the pin about half way to a position which allows the legs on the clip to compress and pull through the hole without resistance.

  13. Depends on the date. If by P3 you mean the plugs and/or other fluids were changed (see post one for clarification on why P3 is meaningless) then if that was longer than 3 years ago for fluids, or 5 years for plugs, then they need changing. If it was more recent, which you would hope, as there has only been one oil change since, then they don't. See post 56 above (or go back to post 1). Minimum requirement is every year or 9000 miles if sooner, which is basically oil and filter change plus checks. Further details in the hand book or post number one.

     

    In basic terms, if everything was changed at 37k within the last three years, then you just need an oil and filter change (+ checks). Otherwise, work out what needs changing using the lists above.

×
×
  • Create New...