Paulzx

Hi mate,

Torquen can get new ones from Japan, I was hoping for a quicker result though. Ebay have got a few, mostly from China which again is a long wait,

and Zmanalex I've messaged three times with no response!

So I'm not having a lot of luck. I'll go back to Ebay and see what I can track down.

No replies? Nobody knows about replacing the fuse link for the battery terminal?

Hello chaps,

I need a new fuse link for the positive battery lead, I got one before from Zman Alex but he's not responding to my messages so not sure if he's still around?

I did notice the part numbers are slightly different for the fuse link for a 350z and 370z - someone I know had a spare 370z one but I don't want to

try and throw that on the car if it's not supposed to be there!

Is there anywhere else you can get these fuse links from?

Excellent thanks, didn't see that when I googled it, got a completely different result haha

Okay so got the fusable link from Alex and it cured the start up problem, car starts now as expected. I've also replaced the battery as that was probably

the original culprit.

The only thing not working is the radio/cd player, which was working before this all happened, it's the original Nissan unit.

What type of fuse do I need and where is it located - is it under the steering wheel?

I have messaged Alex but no reply so not sure if he's around at the moment?

On 23/04/2021 at 08:44, ZMANALEX said:

You will have blown the fuseable link which is connected to the positive battery terminal, just as @stevezzz has said.

 

I have these in stock and are good to go same/next day.

 

Just drop me a PM if I can help further.

Hi Alex,

I'll PM you on that then if you're sure that's what it is. I'll need some instructions though!

On 22/04/2021 at 23:39, Umster said:

Basic question so forgive me, but did you connect positive to positive? 

 

Only time I've seen sparks when jumping a car is when someone has connected positive to negative. 

Yes definitely connected correctly - i made a point of checking that. It probably sparked a little bit because the other vehicle i had connected to the leads had the engine running as I connected the leads across so it was live and you do get a little spark, so i think that was normal. What was abnormal was that after that there was no spark at all from the battery terminal when the other car was running, that's when i knew i had an issue

1 hour ago, stevezzz said:

the spark doesn't sound good   there are fuse able links on the positive cable on mine you may have blown one ?

Yeah i noticed that and did have a look today but couldn't see any obvious blown fuses there. maybe I should just pull them all out and replace them?

1 hour ago, Ekona said:

So when you used the jumper cables on the old battery for the last time, did the car actually start? Or was that the point it was dead as a dead thing?

No it didn't, i got a spark when i connected the leads, probably because the other vehicle the leads were connected to was running before i connected to my car, so it sparked a little bit as i connected but when i went to start the ignition the whole dash board was dead. i just assumed the jumper leads didn't have a good connection to the battery terminals so i played about with that but no joy. Now i've got two batteries and same result, the batteries are charged, so something on the car end is wrong

Guys, need some help with my GT4..

Had to use jumper leads to get the car running a few times recently, due to not using it very much, however, most recently it was turning over but didn't have enough juice to start, so I used the jumper cables again but got a very different result this time.

When i connected the jumper cables this time, there was a spark, so obviously cables were working okay, but after that, no power at all. No dash lights, nothing. I actually bought a new battery, thinking my old battery had given up, but same with the new battery, totally dead.

I'm wondering if it's possible that when I connected the jumper leads and got the spark, could it have knocked out a fuse possibly?

I've never changed a fuse in this car, where should I be looking? Or have I somehow immobilised the car do you think? 

Cheers

I'm actually getting it even now, in the warm weather!

Hi Chaps,

The original aerial on my GT4 is looking a bit tatty and I wanted to replace it for a new one or as new condition etc.

I know most of you have opted for the stubby aerial but I really wanted to keep mine original if possible.

Is that original aerial specific to the 350z or is it just a generic item, and where is the best place to get one?

I did have a quick look on ebay of course but the used ones are all a bit grubby. Thanks

Hi everyone,

A quick one for you guys as I'm sure people have come across this before. 

So I only drive my GT4 maybe once or twice a week, it was never a daily driver for me, but recently I've noticed when I start driving the car, initially I'm getting a little squeak as I drive over a couple of slow speed ramps, so it's quite noticeable. If I do a reasonable drive and come back, it doesn't happen on the way back over those speed bumps.

Seems obvious the shocks are squeaking through non use? Unless something else is happening that I haven't thought of, but is this the beginnings of a problem down the line? I've had the car a number of years and never driven it that frequently, but this squeaking has only just become noticeable recently.

What do you guys think, should I be concerned?

As usual you're 100% right! 

Appreciate it mate

Thanks Alex, I'll try that, it sounds hopeful. I walked away from it earlier because I was so annoyed with myself.

I'm so annoyed right now - typical scenario messing about at night with the bonnet open looking at the battery, got distracted,

went to shut the bonnet down and forgot that I cleverly left the big plastic battery cover on top of the engine.

So the bonnet goes down and semi locks, obviously the battery cover stops it fully closing, but too late - the catch is engaged. So now the bonnet

is locked but it's open by a couple of inches. The bonnet catch does not appear to want to move so it won't just pop open again. I've pulled on the

bonnet latch in the car and that hasn't released it.

Please someone tell me they have at least been as big a you know what as I have, and done this themselves and found a way to get the bonnet open again!!

On ‎25‎/‎07‎/‎2017 at 23:10, Mik Du said:

Assuming your car has wipers already, do you want new because they have seen better days? Just incase this is the issue have a look at this thread, it's easy to do and results are fantastic. 

 

Also, I have a full rear wiper assembly available in Yorkshire. Apparently we don't like rear wipers in this forum. Haha. 

Yep they just need a re-furb but rather than go through the hassle of removing, re-painting - and I won't have time so it would need to go to the painters - it seemed

worth a punt to get some new ones if they are reasonable price.

I've not considered de-wipering the back, I expect that looks good but so far I've been a bit of a stickler for keeping my yellow GT4 completely stock original etc

Thanks for replies chaps, I would be sorted if I needed just the back one! Why are they so hard to get new, surely they're just a standard item used on other cars, they couldn't have been made just for 350z?

I'll give Alex a shout

Hoping to find the wind screen wiper arms for front and back windscreen. I was hoping to just buy some new ones assuming they are just standard parts, although I'm having trouble getting the part numbers. I'm guessing others have sourced these items before? It's for a 2005 GT4. Thanks.

Okay, thanks for the comment.

It's a yes then really because it will go to the dealer and they will want to do the whole checklist but that's fine

Hello Chaps,

I've been looking through this thread to get an idea of how important it is considered, for the frequency and mileage of the servicing.

I've had my GT4 serviced every year at the Nissan dealer but on several occasions, it has done less than 1000 miles between services.

As of now, it's due it's next service and it's 1000 miles since last year's one.

Bearing in mind it will only do another 1000 miles until next year's service would be due, do you all think it's acceptable to skip a year and do the next service next year?

I'm interested to know what others in a similar situation are doing because until now, I've been a bit of a stickler for getting the stamp in the book done on time every year...mostly to avoid questions when I sell the car. It's a bit ridiculous though really because the car does so low mileage, it seems a waste of money to do it every year.

Using the dealer isn't my issue, 1000 miles between services is the real issue, whoever does the work. What do you guys think?

I would get a quote from RT, they did their own Zed in white and it looked mint.

 

Of course you have to look after it but

 

A) it protects your bodywork underneath

 

it's cheaper than a respray

 

C) you can rip it off if you get bored

 

D) it won't put off buyers when you come to sell, sometimes buyers are put off if a car has had a respray.

 

I think they are great IMO

These wrap threads always catch my eye, probably because I'm in the wrapping trade and am always surprised at how keen people are to do this to their cars.

The recent growing trend in doing privately owned cars is great for business, most who earn a living doing it are not exactly going to discourage you from doing it

but we always tell people to think twice, and some of the points illustrated by Tarmac highlight this.

Protects bodywork - true, well it protects your paint but so does wax. No vinyl wrap is going to be as good as your paint or as colourfast.

Yes some vinyls are very durable but on the whole, their UV fading properties are not as good as paint. Plus they damage easily as has been mentioned.

Cheaper than a respray? close call in my experience, anyone expecting a good wrap job to be much cheaper than a paint job will be disappointed I think.

You can rip it off when you get bored - have you ever tried to take off a full wrap? It's a mission, it's not really designed to come off easily. Plus removing glue left behind

is a bloody nightmare if you have that scenario. So in summary, this is not an easy five minute job. Plus you can do more damage to your paintwork removing vinyls

and adhesive than you gained by protecting it with a wrap.

It won't put buyers off - be very wary on this one. Any buyer in his right mind would walk away from a wrapped car because you simply don't know what's underneath it.

We constantly get people coming in to us asking if we can cover up paintwork scratches and the like with vinyls so they can sell the car.

Sorry I haven't been more positive about vinyl wraps on cars but I wanted to share my experience with anyone who is considering spending a lot of money on this.

What you have to remember is that wrapping was always really intended for commercial use in advertising, that's where it's value lies, in brand promotion.

There is no real value in wrapping a private car with no advertising, yet you'll pay similar money for it, just because it can be done.

In the commercial sector they are willing to pay for their vans to be professionally wrapped and removed, but I have never seen any real advantage

or value in doing this to your car, unless of course you have a vast amount of pocket money to blow and don't care either way.

Neil, I totally agree, I just wanted some opinions because the cracks are so tiny that I don't know for sure

it has made the wheel unsafe, I'm just going on the word of the dealers, and the dealers are not always right,

The car is now off the road, i drove it back because i had to.

I think you may have mis-understood me, i'm not intending to carry on using the car regardless,

i just wanted to know if there were any alternatives.

Believe it or not, i can think of better things to do than write my car off due to a collapsed wheel

Better safe than sorry.

Stop thinking and just get one off Alex.

Probably will end up going that route anyway, although presumably that crack has to get a lot worse

before it is genuinely un-safe? i was wondering if it's worth a second opinion?

I'get some pics in the morning and post them up

Well funnily enough the chap at the garage said he thought it might have been a crack in the paint because if you look carefully

at the paint finish, this particular wheel looks to have been re-furbed and a very slight 'orange peel' effect in the paint is noticeable

whereas the factory ones look completely smooth.

The cracks are not on the front face of the spoke, they are about 10 to 15mm length starting from the edge of the side of the spoke,

i may see if i can get a photo but to be honest it's hard to spot.

Has anyone actually had one of these wheels collapse on the spokes?