seanc

Ever thad the problem of a sticking boot lock? When you press the button, the boot pops up, but is still in the catch; requiring a 2nd or 3rd press of the button. I have had this problem since I bought my 'Z' 3 months ago. It started to really bug me, so I got the spanners out. My fix was really simple, described below (sorry no photos): Peal back boot carpet to gain access to lower end of plastic trim. Peal back rubber seal around boot sufficient to allow removal of plastic trim. Carefully unclip the plastic trim. The interior boot lamp is wired up, so simply unclip the wiring plug. Remove plastic trim and place to one side. There are 6 off 12mm A/F bolts holding on the boot lock mechanism which need to be removed. The mechanism can then be removed from the body work; although still attached to the wiring loom. Now it is simply a matter of lubricating the moving parts of the mechanism and working them a little. I used WD40, but a light oil should suffice. Finally, in the immortal words of 'Haynes': reassembly is simply the reversal of the above procedure; remembering to plug the wire into the boot light before clipping the platic trim back in place. Any questions?

Thanks again. Have taken new HU and wiring out of car now and replaced with BOSE unit, so cannot test fade. However, I never adjusted the fade when the HU was in my previous car, so no reason to suspect. Can you advise the code for the ICT loom or provide a link even though my HU doesn't support steering wheel controls? Thanks.

Yes it was the NIS2 spec for the Nissan. I did plenty of research including reading the thread you mention. I am beginning to think that there is something wrong with the PAC unit? Do you know any way of testing? I am reluctant to spend any more money unless I am sure it will work. Thanks.

Hi, the PAC-ROEM is wired up as instructed. I have tried udjusting the levels but no joy - it will adjust, but the sound is nowhere near the level it should be and it is distorted. I have connected a separate earth line. I am hitting a brick wall here and will be putting the BOSE unit back in until I can find a solution. The only other thing to mention is that the PAC-ROEM has 18 wires to the H/U and 14 wires to the car's wiring loom. There is no place to connect the extra 4 wires as these are for 2 extra speakers that my H/U does not support. Any help? P.S. I will post some pics shortly

UPDATE: I have connected the blue/white wire to a 12V out from the head unit. The BOSE amp appears to work, but I only get sound out of the speakers when the stereo is on full volume; at which point, the sound is quite distorted. I am starting to think that I might need a line booster, but I would have expected much higher levels of sound than this without the booster. Now without any sound at all in the car whilst I ponder the problem. Any help appreciated. thanks.

Problems, Problems, Problems. I have read just about everything written on this forum about replacing the standard BOSE Head Unit, so thought I was well prepared. Apparently not. I have spliced the standard ISO adapter into the PAC-ROEM device and connected everthing up. The new unit powers up, but no sound. Two potential areas where I may have gone wrong: 1 the AMP trigger (blue/white) line from the PAC-ROEM unit doesn't connect to anything obvious. Any ideas? 2. Should I be connecting up the Pre-AMP outs of the new HU or the normal audio connections in the ISO plug? I have connected to the ISO plug. Getting quite frustrated having spent several hours on this today, so appreciate any help. Thanks. seanc PS only had my zed 10 days, so still a newbie!

Problems, Problems, Problems. I have read just about everything written on this forum about replacing the standard BOSE Head Unit, so thought I was well prepared. Apparently not. I have spliced the standard ISO adapter into the PAC-ROEM device and connected everthing up. The new unit powers up, but no sound. Two potential areas where I may have gone wrong: 1 the AMP trigger (blue/white) line from the PAC-ROEM unit doesn't connect to anything obvious. Any ideas appreciated? 2. Should I be conecting up the Pre-AMP outs of the new HU or the normal audio connections in the ISO plug? I have connected to the ISO plug. Getting quite frustrated having spent several hours on this today, so appreciate any help. Thanks.

Hi, have had my black 350Z for just over a week now. I am 'upgrading from my MR2 roadster that I am still trying to sell - anyone interested? First job is to get rid of the BOSE unit as I cannot go back to hauling stacks of CDS around. I will bed fitting a double DIN DVD player that I had working fine in my MR2. Already got a lot of good advice from the forum and as I am writing this, the final piece of kit as just arrived from the states. Hopefully everyting will go well for the next few hours and I will report back when done. Cheers. seanc