Posidrive

Can you supply the front section of the front passenger side while arch liner for a 2005 coupe?

Yes in stock they are £49.50 each

how much for delivery and what payment methods do you take. Do you have the fittings that attach it to the bumper/undertray?

Can you supply the front section of the front passenger side while arch liner for a 2005 coupe?

Looking for the front section of the front passenger side wheel arch liner. 2005 coupe

How this got ripped off is beyond me. It was perfectly fine when I changed the front discs on Sunday

The dreaded P1031 error has appeared so it looks like a need a new pre cat drivers side lamda sensor. Where is the best play (forum traders?) to get a plug and play replacement. Can't be bothered with the faffing around of splicing a generic. Would consider used, but not use if such a good idea given that these to have a short life in some cases although mine has lasted 125k miles.

Intending to change the front disks and pads this weekend but feeling a touch twitching about getting the calipers off since I've heard a lot od stories about seized and suck bolts. I can cope with seized since will just mean biting the bullet and paying local garage to do it instead. But If the bolts are seized, how much leverage should I try applying before shearing the bolt is likely to be an issue? I suppose it is worth soaking in good penetrating oil first, any recommendations?

Both front and rear sets of disks are very lipped and they have been skimmed once before and despite no juddering issues it is probably time to bite the bullet and replace them because I need new pads and while the wheels are off.....(they have done 125k miles).

Are the disks the same size for Brembo/Non-Bremo setups?

Now suspect it is more likley to be the sensor. P1273 has not returned but I now get P1031 persistently reappears

I had the same code and even after clearing it using Dashcommand it kept returning even after replacing the front sensor bank 1. It was only after leaving the battery off over night that it stayed clear. Have you checked for air leaks?

Not checked for air leaks yet. Any ideas where the most likely culprits for a leak might be?

Did you clear the self learning after replacing the sensor. I suspect that disconnecting the battery overnight might have the same effec6t.

Engine warning came on at the weekend after she had not been run for a week. I cleared the error code and it had not reappered after 30 mile drive to work this morning, but from what I have seen after trawling the Internet I should not be surprised if it returns within the next 30 miles or so

My OBDC reader shows only code P1273 which appears to be caused by one of:

- Faulty Air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1 Bank 1

- Faulty Air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1 heater Bank 1

- Fuel pressure

- Faulty Fuel injector

- Intake air leaks

- Faulty Air Flow Meter

I have also seen some posts that it could be a crack in the exhaust system or even worse in the cat

So, a number of questions come to mind (Forgive my ignorance):

- Which is the more likley (probably grabbing at straws, but...). 125k on the clock if that helps.

- Are the AFR sensors the Lamda/O2 sensors?

- If so, where is sensor 1, bank 1? From what I understand we have 4 sensors (front/rear and left/right). She is a 2005 manual.

- Are the sensor and heater integrated or separate items?

I also saw one post that inticated that this could be caused by running too long on cruise control (don't ask!!!!!! It was an early morning trip to the airport prior to not being used for a week and I didn't want to arrive too early.

Other possible factor that may be related are that I had just changed out a dirty air filter (standard) and had run a bottle of cat cleaner through her a couple of weeks before. This had removed a bit of lag int he throttle response and also got rid of the occasional smell of bad eggs

Did he have the car at uni this term? or did it stay at home where it was insured?

1st year students are generally not allowed to park on the campus so for the past term the car was parked at home where it is insured, I had to drive him to/from uni. so I can't see any insurances issues up to now, but we are now looking at him having his car on campus for the Spring and Summer terms

Any insurance experts have any advice on this.

Son has just started university and since 1st year students are not generally allowed to park on campus we insured his car at our home address, so far all well and good. From next term he will have special dispensation to park on campus for reasons that we don't need to go into here, but will mean that for of the order of 20 weeks or less of this insurance year the car will be at a different address to that on the insurance forms.

Since this is less than half the year does this mean that we have to inform the insurances of a change to the address. The original forms had no concept of dual addresses.

My driver side seat belt is sticking and not always retracting. Is there any way of sorting this out without a full replacement? Or at least something to try before the full replacement.

It looks like a lot of trim panels would need to come out to get to it. Is there a guide somewhere. I definitely don't want to take apart any more than I absolutley have to.

Any idea how much a replacement in the UK (Nissan or 3rd party) costs? In the US next week so Courtessy Nissan may be the way to go but always nervous about not getting the exact part number right?

Zed has just hit 120k miles and needs an oil change. Recently the oil pressure had been a touch lower than it has been although on spec (a tad under 50 psi at 2000 rpm).

Mechanic with years of experience tuning much more exotic stuff than the Zed thinks the she might benefit from 15W-50 synthetic oil such as Fuchs Titan race Pro R.

Any reason not to?

Yep, was the clutch. New clutch and flywheel fitted yesterday and its like driving a new Zed

Does this sound like an issue with the clutch or the clutch slave cylinder? If I drop the clutch in 3rd while releasing the gas pedal the revs will often briefly shoot from about 3000 to 4000 rpm then drop back down. She also seems rather down on power, in fact I can't get any real power until the revs hit over 3000 rpm. This is a 2005 UK Zed with 110k on the original cutch. I don't really want to buy the clutch and flywheel only to find it is the slave cylinder or something else one she has been taken apart. Also one dumb question, does the rev counter the transmission speed or the actual engine speed? Sorry about lack of paragraphs, <CR> not working

I did something similar when I caught the unserside of the skirt of a rock at the exit from my driveway while cutting the corner to tight one dozey Saturday morning. Our local Chips Away guy in Swindon did a pefect job fixing it up for about £120. From what I can recall though, these guys are all franchised and the quality can vary greatly between the operations.

Thanks for that. Drivers side bush was completely knackered. Had both changed yesterday and now car is perfectly level as well. Hopefully the new tyres will last longer .

In the end we gave up, bit the bullet and bought him a second hand 1.4L VW Polo. Was pleasantly surprised to get fully comp insurance for £1100 per year.

Before you all crack up laughing this is for my 18 year old son who passed his test 2 days ago, but to drive his mother's Honda estate.

Current insurer won't add him as a named driver, but we only really want the occasional day here and there so thought of short term insurance. But I've spoken to a few brokers and checked the usual online suspects and noone will touch him until he has had his license for at least 6 months. Bit odd, because he could have a license for 6 months and not even drive during that time.

Anyone know of any possibilities?

Is that not the same price alex sells them for?

Looking through older posts I thought it was higher. I'll check him out first though?

Has anyone ever used CarParts4Less. They have an Exedy clutch kit for £246 at the moment which seems like a good deal.

Take care with what they are willing to pay for in the event of the worst happening. Admiral cover after market exhausts without an additional premium but will only replace with factory spec.

Now that's a result!

 

I'm guessing it was a UK car? I didn't get any decent quotes from either of those companies when I was looking.

Yes it is a UK car. Only mod is a SS exhaust though.

So I may have more years under the belt than I would like but £280 per year fully comp, protected NCB and 18k miles per year including business has at last put a smile on my face. Thanks Admiral although it took a phone call for them to match the Elephant price via GoCompare.

And for anyone who saw my earlier post about declined insurance to the past, they said that they couldn't care less about house contents cover being refused 27 years ago

As Ekona said, its all down to statistics. If you have had one claim (even if its non fault) then your now a higher risk as you are likely to have more claims. Therefore, insurance will be increased. Thats why they always ask if you have had any non fault claims or accidents.

As Mark Twain has attributed Benjamin Disraeli to have said, "There are lies, damned lies and statistics". You can generally push an argument in any direction that you want by massaging the way in which statistics are applied. Sigh! I would tend to think that any insurer that uses statistics to justify loading the premium for no fault claims that have been fully recovered is also going to be more problematic to deal with in the event of any claim so best avoided.