Posidrive

Its the point that connects to the ball joint. I have not seen the new one in place but the garage says that when the cone is located the it still moves. They have been servicing her for years so they do normally know what they are doing

Failed MOT on front lower control arm and got a replacement manufactured by Moog. My garage says it does not fit because the connection point shown on the photos which show original and replacement has been over machined so it is too deep, so it moves around when fitted. Do I have a badly machined new part or are we missing something

I may need a pair of functioning used catalytic converters for my 2005 UK coupe. Past 2 MOTS have required revving the hell out of her to pass the emissions and I suspect its not going to work this year :(

Had an issue getting through the emissions test last week but over the past week of driving no sign of check engine light although she did seem a touch sluggish. used cataclean today and after about 30 miles she appeared less sluggish but also threw code P1273. Could the 2 be related? Only changed the sensors about 5000 miles ago

Just failed MOT on emissions but surprised that no error code showing. Any ideas what could cause this?

Slightly concerned could be related to not being driven for 8 months

Anyone know know the spec for the rear bumper bolts? I managed to shear the head off one but eventually managed to get the thread out. Hopefully Halfords have something similar, not too fussed about what it looks like since will be hidden once the bumper is back on

I took my rear bumper off at the weekend only to find that the retainer that holds the bumper flush on the right hand side had disintegrated due to rust. Strangely the left hand side one is in perfect condition.

I think that the part is called the side rear bumper bracket that engages wit the rear bumper retainer. Does anyone know if these can be obtained separately or am going to have to fork out on a complete new bumper which otherwise is in perfect condition.

Did contact them and was pleasantly surprised that not only could the policy stay active until the end but also that because I am named driver I can inherit the NCB

Sorry to post a General question here but I am reluctant to directly ask the insurer.

If you are a named driver on your spouses policy does the policy terminate immediately if they pass away or at the end of the 12 months?

Bosch part seems to be OE BOSCH 0258007240

Anyone installed one of these?

Anyone know the part numbers for the Bosch, NGK or Denso plug in equivalents for the pre-cat sensors (no splicing, same plug). I have a trip to the US coming up and might make sense to do a bit of shopping

In case it helps anyone in the future, just had her smoke tested. Leak somewhere in the line that recycles the fuel tank vapor vent back to the engine. Plugged it temporarily and emissions spot on.

Suspect that the O2 sensors are a badly fouled and a little lazy though, these are the originals after almost 160k

Just in case anyone has any ideas here's a bit more info

Problem at idle after starting the engine from warm with idle at about 750 rpm

The front bank of o2 sensors (both sides) continuously read rich and the rear bank lean

Front left hand o2 sensor has constant voltage of 0.28 V with occasional fluctuation to 0.29 V. Right hand sensor has same general but fluctuation is between 0.36 and 0.37 V 

Just had the MOT testing station call to say that the emissions are failing on CO. Bouncing between 0.28 and 0.80 % at fast idle.

No engine warning light, any idea what the cause could be?

As sods law would have it, offspring is away from home with my code reader so had to try the pedal dance.

Pretty clear that the last 2 digits are 47 but not sure what the start is. I get a long flash then a pause then another long flash then a short pause followed by 4 rapid flashes then another short pause followed by 7 rapid flashes

So is this P0247 or P1147. The first does not seem to make much sense from what I can work out because its a turbo waste gate solenoid failure, but is there some alternative meaning for the 350Z.

Hopefully its the latter which would seem reasonable for a car due to hit 150k miles this week

Thanks for the advice guys. Let's just hope next week is warm and dry to do the job.

How long does the primer need to dry before rubdown. Some seem to say half an hour assuming a warm day but others mention leaving it for a day.

Are we talking paint or aerosols here, I would do 3 coats of primer then a 1500 wet n dry rub down before your basecoat silver

Aerosols.

Fed up with kerbed and bubbling Rays so plan to have a go a DIY refurb. Can't look any worse if it goes wrong.

After filling and sandind down I was thinking of one coat acid primer, one coat normal primer, three coats of silver then a final two coats of clear lacquer. Does this sound reasonable?

Any tips on getting decent coverage inside the wheel nut wells? Or any other tips

The only time I have had an EWL with a performance drop has been due to a failed coil pack. It was intermittent for a couple of weeks then the car starting running like a bag of spanners permanently. Obviously, you need to get a fault reading to be sure.

The P1031 fault code was the reason that I changed the sensor. Took a couple of days to get around to clearing the code from the ECU because the reset button on my code reader had broken.

If the CEL comes on does the performance get cut back to help prevent damage?

Just changed a bad pre cat lamda sensor and performance was still sluggish until I cleared the error.

Anyone used the Torque application. Was wondering if you can use it to do the various resets to avoid the pedal dance?

Odd thing is that apart from a bit of whitish smoke getting rid of condensation during the first few minutes while she warms up there is no smoke at all when she is fully warm and oil pressure is at its lowest. No nasty rattles to indicate anything really nasty wrong but would not be surprised if she is getting a little worn with age

Seems worse on the really hot days we have had recently but temperature guage doesn't give any indication that she is running any hotter.

I suppose that my main concern is that it won't do any damage using the thicker oil. Opening up the engine is just viable due to funds at the moment

It's currently 10w40

Oil change due and was wondering if might be worthwhile putting in some thicker oil as recommended by an acquaintance who is a mechanic at a nearby performance tuning center? He recommended Fuchs titan 15w50 synthetic

See has just passed 130k and is consuming a little over a liter between 9k oil changes and the oil pressure has dropped a bit recently to about 45 psi at 2000 rpm going up to about 65 psi at 3000 rpm doesn't sound to bad but used to be noticeably higher.