InsanezeD

Thanks for all the reply's chaps and thanks ilogikal1 for that informative reply - much appreciated fellar!

Cheers guys. Do these products yield lasting results and how often would you say you need to re apply these, if at all?

Ok so how do you chaps keep your front poly lips black?

I started using back to black stuff but it doesn't last that long so I've been using tyre dresser and that lasts longer but eventually starts to grey.

Just curious if anyone has addressed this and found a decent product or solution?

No it isn't rocket science, I simply contacted him via his website today and placed an order for one Strosek rear spoiler.

 

It was simple.

 

Oooooh, strosek on a goldie, I look forward to pics!

Yeah it'll be due early next week according to TS so pics will be up shortly after. As it happens the car in my sig is my last car but my current car is a goldie but this one doesn't have the V1 kit I went with side steps, diffuser front Nismo lip, window tints, refurbished Rays in anthracite etc.

Sooo I don't know whether or not to paint the spoiler body colour or black. Hmmm

No it isn't rocket science, I simply contacted him via his website today and placed an order for one Strosek rear spoiler.

It was simple.

Still got any in stock?

Cheers chaps, think I might just try the cleaning method first and if all fails get a new one

No I've not had the motor out, I just removed the door card to access the reset button, trying to fix the motor is looking like the logical next step so yes if you can forward the part/catalogue number on that'd be smashing

Cheers

Yep this is the method I used, I did it both with door open to start and with door closed to start but it hasn't worked.

Soo unless it's something else it must be a knackered motor? It goes up and down perfectly just drops too far when doors opened and doesn't re-seal when doors closed.

Baffled

Ok so when we open our doors the window drops a 1/4 inch and then seals again when closing, but my passenger door window when opening drops about an inch and doesn't go back up when closed and when opening again drops a further inch and this goes on until the window is fully down, it's been going on for some time now but it's not been so much as a problem really because I don't usually carry passengers (that's what my Qashqai is for) anyhoo if I do open the passenger door I can manually close the window by the switch on the drivers door, but lately I've been taking my 6 year old here and there (as if it's just him he prefers to go in daddy's car) and it's been left open a number of times now because he doesn't understand and I forget so it's time to fix it.

Today I've had the door card off and done the window reset procedure: disconnect motor power for a minute or so, reconnect motor power, close door, fully close window, hold reset button and lower window until it's down fully, release reset button ensuring its fully out, fully close window, open door.

This hasn't worked and I'd tried it a number of times.

Can anyone confirm the above looks about right or have I done it wrong?

Or am I barking up the wrong tree and it's caused by something else like a dodgy door switch?

Any help or suggestions greatly appreciated!

Sunset

I liked the 370z at launch and immediately thought it looked better because it looks like Nissan have gone back to the drawing board with it ie the shape of the windows reflects the early zeds

Hi

Looking for a TS style rear diffuser and side diffusers.

What sort of price & timescale am I looking at?

Cheers

Black 04 reg with black painted alloys parked outside the Aquatic Centre at around 4pm today.

Scratch x is a rubbing compound so it'll remove the oxidisation on the headlight lenses, if you use that on paint it needs to be sealed really with a half decent wax and on a black car I'd highly recommend the Megs Gold Class.

Also a quick tip - after polishing the headlights with the scratch x give them a coat of wax to keep them protected

Cheers but 30mm is a tad too wide for me, 25mm max.

CS what make are they and how much delivered?

Hi

Looking for a set of spacers front and rear, ideally 25 rears and 20 fronts.

Cheers

Cheers for the warm welcome back fellars, I feel all warm and fuzzy now.

Just gotta find the zed now.

Hi fellars

Since I reluctantly sold my last 350Z back in 2009 I've pined for it ever since so now it's time for another one.

I used to own a Sunset UK GT with Alezan interior and the V1 kit with Rays.

Sooo now I'm thinking of either Gunmetal or Sunset with alezan in both cases, Rays, Satnav and pref low mileage or if over 60,000 must have had it's major service, you know the biggie!

I can't believe how much the prices have dropped on these cars, my last one was a 54 plate with 39000 miles and I sold it for £13000 in 2009, I could buy the same car for approx 6-7k now, which is good news as a buyer but if I'd kept it until now I'd be sick lol.

Looking forward to getting back behind the wheel of a 350Z.

i may need this off you (but probably not)... i'll let you know on saturday...

 

Im trying to remove mine and one of the nuts has rounded on there so i cant get it off... so the garage is removing it for me at the weekend. If they damage it, i'll take yours off you if its still available!

As long as you're using the correct size hex bit you won't round the nuts, I can't understand how people are doing this unless they're using the wrong size socket.

If anyone does round off a nut then I'd suggest cracking a slightly smaller socket over it with a hammer to remove it, instead of letting a grease monkey in a garage butcher your spacers.

I've got 4 x 25mm Eibach hubcentric wheel spacers, these widen the track by 50mm (25mm per side).

Perfect for that W I D E stance.

Please note that a few of the nuts look different, that is because they are but the chamfered contacting edge is adequate and none of the nuts are rounded. These spacers will fasten directly to the hub and then fit your wheels to them as normal. These spacers are used but in good condition and are perfectly straight and true.

These will fit the following..

350Z

370Z

300ZX

200SX S14/S15

Skyline R32/33/34/35

£140 delivered

No, it's perfect, and handling feels sharper.

I have never bought an after market exhaust before only heard them passing and everytime I think sounds chavvy like, When you get something like this fitted can someone tell me the difference of sometime like a K1 to what you hear on most Scubby's ??

 

PS insane, what did you do with your UK standard exhaust?

Sold it, a friend of a friend got wind of it that I was changing the exhaust and he offered me £100 for it because his was shot, and to think I was going to just scrap it aswell lol, turns out it was still good and solid, probably another 2 years life left in it.

I suppose it's horses for courses when it comes to exhausts, the K1 is a loud exhaust with the bungs out, but it's a lot quieter with them in, It hits the spot for me anyway.

You want to steer clear of them, they wont sit true to your hub unlike hubcentric spacers do, this means at speed it'll cause a slight wheel wobble, and besides I wouldn't bother with 8mm, it'll make no difference to how it looks.

I've got 25mm H&R hubcentrics all round, looks a more aggressive stance and perform perfectly handling wize.

Block shifting down does no damage at all, but why anyone would block shift up is beyond me, unless you're the laziest driver ever and should in that case own an auto.

I occasionally get a light crunch downshifting from 6th to 5th, but never on the upshift from 4th, and it's only accasional, not regular.

So I was thinking synchro early warning.

Parts don't last for ever folks, these arn't the olden days.