douglasr

I've been through this already and seen the various threads on the "banana" bar. A couple of months ago, I took my car to my local dealer with diagrams and photos and asked him to have a look. The service manager reckoned the npoise was definitely front offside, but for good measure inspected every suspension component for play. There was none.

In his opinion, the car was perfectly OK to drive, but the most likely cause was the anti-roll bar drop links. ZMANALEX suggested in a previous posting of mine that these be removed and if the clunking noise disappears, then you have confirmation. (£300 from a dealer for replacements, a lot less elsewhere).

Cap is reporting that values are on the up at the moment for coupe's and cabriolets : http://www.cap.co.uk/PressCentre/CAPNew ... fault.aspx

There are always a vew Z's on pistonheads for sale. I sold my S2000 on there a few years ago in December with no problem.

should say fix the problem !

I had my car in the dealers recently to have them look at a clunking noise from the suspension. They tightened the suspension mounts as per TSB088 and checked the car over, but could not find anything wrong. Driving away from the dealers, the clunk remained (on broken surfaces).

They have quoted £296 to replace the anti-roll bar drop links front and rear as this "may" fix the problem. My question is, if I authorise the work and the clunk remains, where do I stand? I'll be a bit p*ssed off if I have to pay for work they have recommended and it’s not fixed the problem.

I have trawled this forum and the only other potential problem is a suspension control arm. Advice on dealing with the dealer appreciated...

Of course it will never be the same price as a private sale but that's a reasonable offer from the garage if you need speed or want to reduce the hassle.

I'm kind of leaning that way. I've had hassle selling quick cars before with no-shows and test pilots. There there is also the issue that the suspension clunk may be the sway bars or worse, suspension control arm(s) - more expensive. The dealer does not appear to be sure and I dont want to spend money chasing a problem on a car I am selling. It is noticable on broken surfaces and if I was buying it I would want it fixed.

I have a March 2005 GT Coupe with 23500 miles and FNSH. My wife has a 30% chance of getting made redundant, so it may be time to sell ( ).

I was at my local dealer getting a suspension clunk looked at (Could not find anything wrong but agreed its probably the sway bars ends - £260 to replace) and I asked the dealer what it was worth. "£11300 book" he said, "but I'll give you £12000 as I can sell these easily at this age and mileage". Mmm. tempting. WeBuyAnyCar offered £10700 (not surprised) and a Glass's online valuation values it at £13000 private sale in excellent condition (£11050 trade in). I reckon the car is between average and excellent as it has the usual stone chips and a couple of scratches on the back bumper. There is also slight corrosion on the alloys (plus a minor scuff on one). Considering this and the clunk I reckon the offer is reasonable - what do you think ??

Happens to me every time it rains. Its not a lot of water, so I'm not that bothered. If the seals were shot, I would know because of the wind noise.

 

Surely it has to be the seals. I can't see how you would get water ingress into the interior without the seals being shot. Does it happen on both sides?

Yes, and its not the interior, just where the kick plates are. My car is parked on a steep inclide. Today after being parked on the flat in the rain for a couple of hours...no water....

Happens to me every time it rains. Its not a lot of water, so I'm not that bothered. If the seals were shot, I would know because of the wind noise.

Paint

Cheap(ish) leather.

And the clear winner for me is the dipstick, that comes out OK, but wont go back in again the same way. It takes at least 4 or 5 attempts. The oil filler has a habit of getting stuck as well.

the Z 's chassis is MUCH better than the S2000 especially on the limits. From what I read, the S2000 doesn't give you any warning and just snaps. The Z is much much easier to drive fast than the S2000.

 

Example: one cold morning I was going to work, icy roads, took a bend, the esp light flashed a bit, a little fishtailing, and everything was fine (very slow speeds I hasten to add). Went around the bend and.... an S2000 was stuffed in the hedge

 

 

wrt towing, afaik surely all rwd should be towed lifting the rear?

Well I owned an S2000 for nearly four years and have had my 'Z' since February. The limits are about the same with the 'Z' having a more progressive breakaway, but with ESP off the torque will get the wheels spining easily, whereas in the S2000, you would need to be in VTEC to get a similar result - less likey or stupid if the weather is bad.

I would say the 'Z' is easier to drive fast, but not on a bumpy 'B' road (its wide and heavy and suffers too much from bump steer). The S2000 is smaller, lighter and more nimble. On a good 'B' road or most 'A' roads, the 'Z' has the advantage because of its power delivery out of corners -especially if the S2000 is in the wrong gear.

ESP may have saved you joining the S2000 in the hedge that day.

Saddo alert. Section 5.8 of the manual states "NISSAN recommends that your vehicle be towed with the read wheels off the ground using towing dollies"

My old S2000 was the same, in fact if you had a rear puncture, you had to swap a front tyre to the rear and out the space saver on the front to stop the LSD overheating.

Actually it seems to depend on whether it's a Nissan Approved car, and if it is you get at least 12 months for free. I guess mine isn't, and now it's been taken off the website I can't check.

When I bought mine I was told the standard warranty was 3 months for non approved cars. Since the car was only 2 years old, I didnt care as it had the balance of the manufacturers warranty.

I bought mine from an Arnold Clarki Nissane franchise. It was not sold as Nissan approved and the prep and service left something to be desired.

Your not missing anything.

Tonneau cover.

Paint protection for the nose and wings?

Dont bother with the rear parking sensors as they are a dealer fit and its something they can feck up. They are not sensitive enouigh either.

Dont bother with the alu vent trims as they are also a dealer fit and just reflect in the windscreen anyway...

In that case what did they put the grease on with? Sandpaper?

 

Jokers.

brillo pad it seems!

 

Are you serious they said that? I have not heard anything so stupid in my life!

Well apart from "im pregnant"

Its not as daft as it sounds. Cars are coated with cosmoline pre transport to protect paint and metal surfaces. It is meant to be removed by cosmoline remover, but of course if they are'nt carefull then swirl marks would be the result I suppose.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmoline

If this is true Gordon Brown is one robbing bastard...

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/business/6464783.stm

Goodbye good residuals...

I got quoted from the same guy as douglas today at £60 per wheel.

 

My only gripe is he said it doesn't matter what kind of car the wheel is on.....

 

Then proceeds to tell me that if he was doing the wheel on my Clio it would be £40 and if on a Lambo it would be £80

 

Douglas.... did your £60 include an AA discount ?

B*llocks - didn't know about that!

Has finished now, just as i was about to order one... What dimentions are best for the z, will look at his other items?

You can have mine for £40

Alloy repaired by Chipsaway, looks perfect - £60.

http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic ... highlight=

I ordered a Cargo net from e-bay. Ad says its for a TT or A3, but it looks identical the photo in the 350Z brochure. Its fits just fine and a bargain at £8 (Nissan dealer wants £40 odd I think!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Cargo-Luggage-Net ... dZViewItem

If you do use Chipsaway, post up what it costs as I have an alloy needing repaired as well.

No problem. The guy I used 14 months ago (based in West Lothian), needs to check my postcode as two franchises have recently started in my area (Falkirk). I guess they aren't allowed to step on each others toes. I'll keep you posted and send some pics once its done (will take a couple of weeks probably).

Scuffed my alloy on a high kerb today - not too bad, but needs touched up (or possibly repaired). I know that chipsaway now do alloy repair, so I've e-mailed the local guy I used before. He will ask for a paint code if he can fix it, so any ideas what the paint code is for a standard 18" alloy ??

I think I know what you are refering too here as mine has been the same from new. When I pull off in first gear, normally at about 1200-1500 rpm, there is a slight judder which to me feels like its coming from the diff. I've put it down to the LSD and have not mentioned it to my dealer - maybe I should, what do you think.

Had my car 3 weeks - ditto. My previous S2000 (also has an LSD) was exactly the same. I've found that a few extra revs and its OK. Negotiating speed bumps is the worst.

Page 21. During 2007, there will be a revised V6 with 70% new parts = power up to 309 bhp. A bonnet bulge will feature on revised cars.

The Nismo version will feature a new lighter bodykit developed from the super GT racers in Japan. The bodyshell will be stiffened by additional welding and bars across the chassis, new dampers and Bridgestone RE01-R tyres. The Nismo car will have the new powerplant or a detuned version of the 400 bhp 3.8 litre Type 380RS-Competition club racer.

Phoned the dealer and asked them to make sure they were painted. I dont want them left as black. He warned me that this "may" be the reason they dont work very well, but I mentioned that there are other owners that have painted sensors that work fine.

Thanks for the replies.