The Don

Count me in too.

370Z half system with 5" inward rolled tips.

Yes, these are 18 inch standard UK wheels.

Bluetooth adaptor now reduced to £60 delivered.

Will consider any offer for the wheels.

£60 delivered.

*NOW SOLD*

I bought these direct from Motordyne in Feb 08. They were on my GT4 until this September but being non-moving parts are in good as new condition.

£135 + £5p&p for the 5/16" isothermal plenum spacer kit

£220 + £15p&p for the MREV2 lower collector

Make me an offer...

If you have a rev-up engine then this is a great combo. I never had it dyno'd but the torque gain in the mid-range is significant and the car really surges on at about 4krpm. I can also categorically state that the ECU will not dial out the effects of these mods.

I still have the Motordyne purchase/postage receipts if you would like proof of authenticity.

Looks like it may be throttle position in your case, but I've had a similar issue with the engine check light coinciding with a throatier exhaust noise and it has turned out that the weld on the backbox flange has cracked and is blowing. Might be worth checking.

Does anyone have one in resonable condition that they want rid of?

Could the 'ratchety' feeling not just be stickiness in the pedal/mechanism, i.e. it needs a bit of lube?

Looks like it might be this that's doing it. The passenger side damper is tapping away in time with the noise, but the driver side one isn't vibrating much at all.

That TSB note refers to the other side but I suppose the same fault could happen to either damper.

Now where's the best place to get hold of a new passenger side fuel damper?

Pulled up last night and with the warm weather I had the window down for a change. I know 350Zs make all sorts of noises but this one was new - a rhythmical tapping at about 4 or 5 taps per sec from somewhere under the bonnet. Only audible at warm tickover and as soon as you put any more revs on you can't hear it any more.

Left it until this morning and it seems to be coming from the top of the passenger side engine bank. Taking the oil cap off and getting my earhole in there it sounds like its in there with the camshafts. Could it be a worn cam lobe or follower/shim? What confuses me is that it seems to have appeared all of a sudden, not gradually. Plus, the engine's only got 27000 on it.

Isn't it just typical that my warranty expired last Monday

Any thoughts or advice?

Just had a P1 done at ESR, Sunderland. Way cheaper than the local Nissan dealers could offer, car in the trustworthy hands of people who will treat it with respect, great advice and car chat with Big Phil and the guys there, and as much tea as I could drink. Plus it was a Saturday too, which is a big plus not having to take time out of work. Highly recommended

Lexx was there getting his new spoiler fitted too. That man is a mod-addict!

this is not a car that rewards bolt ons...modern naturally aspirated cars simply don't work like that anymore. Even turbo cars are less than optimized when it comes to bolt on mods. Everything centers around the ecu in modern auto tuning. Without altering the ecu, any change you net will never be optimized

 

to make the most of any hardware, you need proper software - its the same with anything computer related. Can you realize gains by just fitting a plenum spacer, high flow cats and an exhaust? Absolutely - probably about 15 whp. With ecu tuning that figure can double and nearly triple. The tuning is the most important aspsect of this car and it yields tremendous rewards. Upgrades such as the UTEC also make it quite easy for the do it yourselfer to do (so long as they understand what makes an engine run, and can read and understand a detailed instruction manual)

 

a popcharger, or any intake on this car is an absolute waste of money as the stock design, particularly the 06 cars (different airbox design) is quite good unless you want the looks/sound...makes noise, nothing more. A dyno will never, ever, ever show a legitimate gain from an intake. If you want to know if an intake netted you any power, you install it as a standalone mod, take it to a 1/4 mile track, and compare pre-install mph with post install mph.

From what I've read 15whp midrange is the kind of gain to be expected from a plenum mod, and is not a bad return without ECU work. I'd be happy with that and can always follow it up with the piggy back ECU later.

3fiddyZ, that's a sound strategy. I'll be interested to see your followup dyno results. I may well do the same by comparing dynos as I am now and after I get the lower collector fitted, giving it a while in between for the ECU to play any of its games. It's the only way I'll know for sure.

I'm inclined to agree with others re: the sprint booster. Makes the ECU think you are driving the car like you stole it.

I think the reason plenum mods aren't cancelled, it to do with fuel / air ratio. If there is more air getting in, to keep the fuel / air ratio the same then it needs more fuel = bigger bang! Albeit the ECU canm cancel some mods, I can't believe it can deal with changing the basic set-up of an internal combustion engine!?

 

why does it cancel out any gains from an air filter then ? shirley that does the same - more air/fuel, unless the MAF is grassing on us squeeling to the ecu

 

See my other post above.

You don't sound 100% convinced there, H5.

GixxerUK's question remains unanswered.

What we need is a 350Z ECU guru who can answer this question once and for all in words that we can all understand. Speak up and educate us, the ignorant masses...

I accept that ECU tuning is the only option wrt getting max gains from your mods. But most people are looking for bolt-ons which will give good gains without the pain of the piggy back ECU and a tuning session on a dyno.

So if plenum mods are NOT dialled out by the ECU, as you believe Adam, then can anyone explain why? What's the fundamental difference between that and e.g. a popcharger, wrt how the ECU responds?

3fiddyZ, I'm never sure whether to rely on the so called butt-dyno. The fact that you've spent a few hundred on a mod may influence your opinion on any perceived improvements. Placebo mods. And even if you do feel improvement initially, maybe they are temporary and just fade away gradually and imperceptibly as the ECU slowly adjusts? Did you do your dyno test immediately after fitting the K&N and plenum spacer and did you dyno before the mods were fitted to get a measure of genuine gains, or are you referencing "stock" as per the Nissan figures?

I've still read a lot of reviews of plenum mods which make no mention of piggy back ECUs and still claim the gains. But they never seem to comment on whether the gains are permanent.

If I'm looking at 500+ quid for an ECU mod on top of the N/A mods then like Ian says you might as well bite the bullet and go supercharged.

I think there's plenty of evidence that the plenum mods give mid-range gains in both hp and tq (rather than peak gains), but are those mid-range gains permanent? It's one thing fitting a mod, dyno'ing immediately and seeing improvements, but if they then used the car for a week and ran a dyno under theoretically identical conditions would the ECU have negated the initial gains?

Not had my Zed long and have been looking at some mods, specifically replacing the lower collector on my rev-up with a modified one (MREV2). It's said to give good mid-range gains and loads of dynos posted all over the web confirm this.

HOWEVER, I also read that after a short while, the ECU will compensate and dial out any gains from N/A mods.

Question is, who is right? Are these impressive dynos I'm seeing taken before the ECU has had the chance to adjust? Or are they veiled marketing by manufacturers/resellers? I'm confused

Are we all wasting our time and cash on N/A breathing mods?

Discuss...

Had the front driver's side bearing replaced under warranty last week. I was getting rumbling and vibration whenever the steering wheel was turned to the left. Not that noticeable under 30mph but at 70mph round left hand curves it felt horrible. Very obvious and much worse than road noise/vibration.

Thanks for the info guys.

The fronts were newly fitted with Bridgestone RE040s before I got the car. The grooves at the edge run to a block of rubber.

So it sounds like it might be a wheel bearing. Better make my first call to Nissan then

Hi All. First post alert!

Still getting used to my Kuro GT4 I picked up on Thursday (absolutely lovin' it ) and have been swatting up on here about some of the niggly issues people get. The car seems to be fault free at present, apart from one thing - when I am travelling at speed (over 30 mph) and I need to turn the wheel to the left for a left hand curve (even a very slight amount of left hand steer) then I get a rumble from what feels like the front tyres. It doesn't happen at all when I steer to the right. Is this likely to be incorrect toe-in? I was thinking I might go in to get the alignment checked.

Any advice would be much appreciated by this Zed noob.