Reddx

I live in a series of 1 way streets, so every morning I drive over a few bumps or one of those elevated intersections where you drive up the bump on the intersection (still 1 way) and then come down on whatever side you drive out of and the suspension seems to hate that and creaks once or twice as it adjusts.

That aside there's no oddities really. The car doesn't do this at any other points of normal driving- it's literally just that and perhaps breaking (but that's not the same issue I don't think these are related therefore).

Wonder if it's droplinks/ anti roll bar bushing? How to tell without lifting it enough to actually get underneath properly? :o
 

13 minutes ago, veeg33 said:

They are pretty straight forward if you are good with tools. Nothing tricky, there are few 'how to' in the forum. I can't remember which one i used but instead of removing the window completely, I used masking tape to hold the window in fully closed position before i start removing bolts that are holding it. I find it safer compare to removing it and place it somewhere safe whilst you replace the motor. Or if you can get someone to hold it for you but he/she must not let go as it will drop into the door and get damaged or end up in pieces.

 

Similar procedure -->

https://nicoclub.com/archives/350z-diy-changing-the-window-motor.html

 

I think i used this one as guide to reset --> Video

Yeah I used that video too on monday - that's where I got so frustrated because heaven forbid my 4G actually work in Troon (oceanside town W. Scotland) so I was waiting ages for it to load and then I ultimately came to the realisation I just don't have the reset button and nothing is really working to fix it either.

I'll use that when the motors arrive. They messaged back and provided a link to the D+P set for 55~ quid so that's going to be a job for weekend or next week me. Not entirely sure when I'll find the time but seeing as the panel comes off in 2 minutes flat I'm sure everything after that is doable.

I'll probably use masking tape and solicit the help of someone to just make sure it doesn't buckle as I swap it out. Should be quite straightforward once the panels are off. The white clips holding the cables are somewhat a mystery to me though. Tried separating them last time but they didn't really come loose so for the door switches I just left them in and undid the clamps holding the full switch-boxes in place.  Any tips on that? Not sure if theres some pressure lever in them I need to maybe press in with a screwdriver or something?

2 minutes ago, veeg33 said:

I went for this one for passenger side - Still going strong after 7 months. Just make sure you get the one with a reset button, which makes life easier.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Window-Regulator-Motor-Front-Left-For-Nissan-350Z-Z33-Skyline-V35-2002-2009/183510741412?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Perfect, just sent them a message asking if they can bundle up driver and passenger side.

Will have a go at fitting them sometime next week I assume provided the weather clears up again. Any recommendations on the installing front?

1 hour ago, veeg33 said:

Mine started to drop automatically when I start to have issue with the window motor. First symptom was not dropping or going back up when i press the switch. Sometimes it drops, but refuse to go back up unless I manually pull it up by hand. I did try to refresh the motor by removing the housing and give it a quick clean with contact cleaner. Works OK for a while and issue starts coming up again. After 6-8 months, eventually the motor starts to get worst, dropping automatically especially when door is open. I have to manually pull the window back up to fully close before i shut the door to ensure fully sealed, but after awhile it will still drop by 0.5cm to 1cm creating a leak and I can hear it at around 60mph onwards.

 

Anyway, in the end, i swapped a new window motor (ebay specials) and everything is working as it should hence no more dropping automatically. Hence i guess your next step is to get a new motor installed and take it from there.

Yeah honestly I think both motors have seen their prime a long time ago  (as evident by both being completely off from where they should be).

Any recommendations for aftermarket ones?

Seen a couple for 18 quid on ebay and similarly seen some for 140 on torqen.. so yeah. Not sure what to go for really.

So, first off I removed the door panel and saw the black circles that cover up some of the holes and should lead to the window regulator reset switch.

Looked under the little black circle it's meant to be under and there's nothing there - I looked really hard for a good 45 min and made sure to check both circles where the regulator motor sits, nothing.

I am not sure if the JDM had different motors(?) for the windows, I doubt it since I've not read anything of the sort on here nor reddit. Perhaps a previous owner swapped them?

The original issue was that the driver side window doesn't sit snug when going 50+. As you speed up there's a whistling coming from the upper rear edge of the window pane.

When opening the door, the window falls lower than it should (imo - roughly 1- 1.5 inches maybe) . Passenger side one doesn't drop as low, roughly .5-.7 inches maybe.

This was how the car was as of yesterday midday.

So, after spending 2hours trying to find the reset button to no avail I tried doing the simple reset via window up/window down as seen on here a few times.

This was my second update on reddit when I called it a day:

update: had to close up the door for the day. Heading out etc.

Not sure what to do. JDM maybe had different motors? No clue, maybe someone fitted an aftermarket one? Genuinely stumped.

As it stands, the driver side window drops quite hard when you open it - about 1.5 inches.

Then when it's shut it closes all the way up and looks perfect but as you drive it clearly isn't "tight" and air gets through which makes it very noisy as it starts to whistle.

The passenger one now refuses to drop more than .5cm. no idea why. Started out of the blue as I was attempting to reset the driver side one.

Pretty bummed out that I couldn't get to the bottom of the driver side issue and moreso that I must've bricked the passenger side one too. Any help or advice is appreciated.

Not sure if I need to buy new motors, noticed the passenger side window opens slower than driver side one as well so maybe it's time..?

So, the driver side window is pretty much the same as it was yesterday to begin with. Drops 1.5~ inches, isn't airtight at 50MPH+. The passenger side window is now somehow bugged and won't drop more than literally .2-.3 CM. Barely opens at all when you open the door. As far as it goes though, it has always and still is very snug - no air coming in.

Absolutely any help is appreciated, more annoyed that the passenger window is now somehow bugged than originally annoyed at the whistling of the driver side window.

On 29/06/2019 at 15:43, Kryptek49 said:

You removing it from a 350z?

 

If so, it's probably screwed in place to the oem metal brackets behind the dash, so no cage and no keys needed

Thanks, I'll have a look this weekend perhaps! 

Was wondering if anyone knew what kind of key I'd need to remove an Alpine stereo from the dash and swap it with a different one (also looking for recommendation as the current one can't interface with androids it seems).

I tried my hand at googling for specifics/alpine specific keys but came up empty handed.

Is there a universal set I can buy off ebay that anyone recommends? 

Haven't given it a shot without because I'm worried I'll do more harm than good.

26 minutes ago, G1en@waxandshine said:

If all the tyres are matching, just swap the fronts like you suggest. 

5 minutes ago, G1en@waxandshine said:

You have kind of answered it. The 245/275 combo works well and many have run it including myself but the profile ratio needs to be the same on the fronts and rears, ie 30/35/40. 

Thank you.

Seeing as the previous owner did not give me exact dates on when the tyres were purchased, should I really go out and swap all 4 at the same time (as I see recommended elsewhere) or simply swap the two front ones for now.

As he himself said the two front ones are almost brand new and the two back ones are a few months old only I would mostly likely resell the front ones and recover some of the cost.

Hello,

I recently purchased a 350z in what I would assume is very good condition (considering it's age, anyway).

Currently, the back tyres are 275/30/19 and the front ones are 245/35/19 which seems to be causing some issues with the traction control and the slip light coming on which disallows me to accelerate for about a second.

I was recommended to change the front ones to 245/30/19 in order to rectify that.

I was hoping someone could point me in the direction of an explanation of what I'm looking for in regards to stagger ratios, particularly for the z and seeing as this has been an issue I've seen pop up a few times on old posts in forums is this the best bet for me, to go out and buy two 245/30/19 in order to hope it fixes the issue? Is there a different way to go about this? Thanks in advance.