burntorange

i have a similar problem, i had a custom dual flow exhaust fitted at the same time of having the Japspeed HFCs fitted and the thing is mega loud, sounds nice when i follow the car in another, but the drone you get between 2 to 3000rpm can be very unbearable on a commute especially when trying to engage in conversation. Is this likely the cats over the rest of the exhaust which is responsible for the drone noise?

whats are these bungs you are referring to and what do they do exactly?

Ok so a quick comparison,

Its more practical for starters, has room for adults in the back, and a nice amount of room in the boot wick any zed owner will appreciate. 

Side by side it is a bigger car but doesn't feel like it at all.  

The evo would run rings around the zed anyday on country roads, if it was a top end drag race I'd probably say a tuned said would take it. 

Evo seems to be very quick but also has short gearing, i have the 6 speed sst semi auto box which if you appreciate forza and a racing wheel is ace, if not then maybe you won't, i love the paddle shifters and gears are instantly selected so its more rapid.   

I thought the zed handled like a go kart but i could never push the zed to speeds round corners like i can in the evo.  I have always found the zeds cornering very very flat as in the body doesn't roll at all, which is great and its got great center of gravity but ive already felt it lacked feedback as to when you were about to lose traction.  

The evo on the other hand gives you plenty of feedback and it lets you know nicely when grip is slipping and that's if you find the end of its staggering amount of grip.  The amount of grip is so confidence inspiring its crazy! You can definitely tell there's a lot of trickery happening with its yaw systems to keep you where you are as it takes you beyond what you believe to be even possible. 

Put it this way, an idiot could drive this car fast. 

Overall, i am very very happy with the evo and the dreams of having aGTR are well gone. I cant ever imagine what better cornering ability would feel like as this seems to have it.....more power ofcourse but this is plenty fast enough right now,  only 50hp and 33ftlbs of torque shy off a 09 GTR....

Gonna be gutted having to sell the zed as i do love it but i wanted more power and space

It certainly felt it compared to this bad boy

A little update!

I went to see another evo 10 yesterday, 400/400 and that thing scared the living daylights out of me how fast you can drive along a country lane and how it just defies the laws of physics with the levels of grip....

So i naturally bought it...

Here it is

Im gonna go try a different evo x and see

test driving a tvr cerbera at midday, i love my 350z i guess my only issue with it is the lack of space. can only just about fit everything in for a camping weekend for two with very strategic placement. 

ive been driven in an evo 6 years ago that had 400bhp and i remember that feeling mental, but that was before i had driven cars myself and rode any fast bikes so my memory is a little vague. i also was driven in an rx7 that was around the same power, i remember that being quick but not as brutal as the evo. maybe the one i viewed is a lemon, shame as it looks a beaut.

As title suggests, test drive an evo 10 sst today mapped to 400bhp, i was really surprised how it didn't feel much quicker considering my zed has only 286bhp.... with the sst box,  what i did like was that gears felt like a thing of the past, boost was constant, feeling almost as if there was no gear changes happening. But like i say i sort of expected 400bhp to feel faster..... sort of wondering how much different a zed feels with a supercharger as that is also on the cards at the moment to choose as an option rather than a different car

Har Har, i meant from a perspective that it has been tried and tested

Seriously? You reckon this cant be done diy? I was hoping someone might say heat up the plastic a little bit and form it back to shape

Albiet gently i imagine it has still left the shape of their front end creased into my rear bumper which is seriously irritating, what can you do to get this crease out? i have uploaded two images to point out the shape as it might not be that obvious. 

Is there any mappers we should avoid? Do i take it the likes of abbey and hdev know what theyre doing with sc turbos

Any updates with this build?

Ok, so i took for a drive and found nothing out of the ordinary with heat any where, I have drive around with TC off and get no issues too, so something is deffo up, i will get on the blower and hope cougar store have a solution

11 minutes ago, Bigjimg said:

Sometimes if you jam the clutch pedal down with a stick or something over night or longer it gets all the air out, it worked on mine.

If this will actually work ill give it ago before bleeding it properly

2 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

Reverse bleeding not possible I am afraid.

One way valve in pipework.

ahhhh drat, double drat! well thanks for this info saves me trying haha. ill have to recruit the missus, oh what fun that shall be, good job this forum is my safe haven so i can get away with saying that

Quick question, has anyone ever reverse bled their clutch system with success? I have a massive syringe with rubber tubing on the end i last used to reverse bleed my bike with ease, wondering if these would have any issue doing it this way. Dont need 3 people then im thinking

well, not impressed if ive had to pay twice for it!! you think for sake of £40 quid fitting and fluid bleed its not worth the hassle doing it yourself, just shows if this is the case, you want a job doing properly......

I would have hoped they would had bled the clutch properly, is this literally the only thing it could be? as that would be annoying and a waste of a slave cylinder and fitting costs!!!! grrrr,  I personally have only ever bled a clutch on a bike, is it easy enough without garage lift ramps? gonna have to use the search ,which as a web developer think is a pita on this website, put anything more than a single word in and it replaces the spaces with + symbols which then brings up nothing, so have to remove the + it has added on the results page and research which then it will successfully search.

just over an hour away cougar store, worth a call i reckon.

I havent managed to test for temperatures yet as both times ive driven the car ive totally forgot on exiting to test it haha, lunch time now tho so will go out for a drive and see and hopefully my fish like memory will remember.

Thanks for the offer btw Ekona, long distant relationship not on the table?

I have had a month of woes changing lots of things before going for a remap, which i finally have done - woooooo!

My only issue i am left with is this. 

Ever since having my JWT lightweight flywheel and clutch fitted, my clutch peddle position had dipped really low and would have to be 100% depressed to be engaged and the bite point was almost instant as you released pressure. This progressively got worse to the point i could barely change gear - not good - this was only over a few days whilst i waited for my replacement slave cyclinder.

When it arrived i booked it in right away and got that replaced.

When i got there the clutch peddle was inline with the rest of my peddles until i drove it a few hundred meters down the road and it was again sitting in the same position, so i went back to state the issue.

We sat around and tested a variety of things which i will detail the findings below to see if any of you can help.

With the engine off and the clutch fluid reservoir open (top off) I was able to pump the clutch peddle from fully out to fully in no problems. this led us to believe maybe too much fluid in there, so drained some out,

replaced the lid on the clutch reservoir and it was sticking again. Maybe this was because the air flow holes in the lid were blocked, investigated and found no blocks in airway. So we decided to remove the plastic valve under the rubber flexi seal on the lid, this seemed to help a little.

next we got the engine running and as soon as the engine was on the peddle stuck about half way and would only ping back up with a little help and then it would stay that way until i stopped pumping the peddle for a minute and when i came back to trying it again it was stuck until i helped it back up and it would be ok until i stopped pumping the peddle for a minute.

This led said mechanic to believe this was the clutch not pushing back as much as the OEM clutch on release and why the peddle only moves back half way.

he got the car up on a ramp and said he could shim the end of the rod of the slave cylinder to increase the travel of the peddle, which it did, he reckoned that it might be the spring of the clutch peddle getting stuck in the half way position so by shimming it it should push it that extra bit further to stop this.

After this we agreed i would drive it around and see if that made any difference else get a new master cylinder.

Now this hasnt cured my problem, the peddle does tend to get stuck on its return if i havent pumped the peddle for over a minute which in normal driving is the case, most times it will return on its own, not right away though, youll just notice 10 seconds after a gear change a loud ping as it springs back into place.

This is not ideal as you can image and means the clutch has no real feeling of engagement until around 35 to 40% of peddle travel inwards.

Is my solution a new master? had no issues at all before this new clutch kit.

All opinions appreciated 

cheers

Just outside Birmingham

36 minutes ago, longsh07 said:

Do me a favour, after you've been driving the car and come to a stop, touch the alloys and tyres on the rear end. Is one side hotter than the other? Can also try touching the calipers. I wouldn't touch the discs though just in case 

 

I'm starting to wonder if one of your brakes is seized and or dragging. That might upset the braked LSD system which will flash the TC light.

I will try this after my trip home tonight and report back on this one

18 minutes ago, Jetpilot said:

If you can repeat this behaviour every time, get a mate in the car and video it and also try it with the tcs turned off, how are you slowing the car down, gear changes or brakes?

 

What equipment did your long trusted friend mechanic use to check the alignment measurements?

 

I am still yet to try without tcs which i should have by now, i slow down by just the brakes and engine braking most of the time.

I didnt have hunters 4 wheel alignment I got my long trusted friend mechanic to sort it out for me, he did note that during carrying it out, it was impossible to adjust the my rear offside and had to buy a replacement part before being able to complete it

you see i would like to think it was the tyres but i have had the exact same tyres on this car before with no fault beforehand unless they are a dodgy set. checked pressures which are as standard to the settings on the door.

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Jetpilot

I understand how how it might seem, but there have been many days since i first started this thread and driven it many many times and i have found out things a long the way with listening to people on here and also investigating the car itself by purposely re enacting things i know which seem to cause it. I was misguided by the lift off oversteer, after thinking about it, going out and testing it, i have determined it is definitely NOT lift off oversteer , i can try getting a video of it, but think this will be hard to film the speedo TC flashing and the driving itself.

Heres how i see it lets take roundabouts as this is where it is most common place, lets take a roundabout with traffic lights, you drive onto the roundabout, you know there are traffic lights you drive normally around the roundabout, no race day launches, no traffic light starts, just moving with the traffic. 

The lights are red, you lift off the gas to start to slow down to a controlled stop, as i mentioned no mega acceleration so there should be NO mass movement of weight from the car and i am not lifting off viciously nor bringing the car to a sudden stop,  and the traction control lights will flash and i will feel the rears momentarily lock up causing a mini slide from the rear wheels, i can repeat this behaviour every time.