Rocket_Rabbit

Interesting. How would mounts affect the syhncro operation unless you get somesort of outer casing distortion. The shifter isn't on external cables/rods - it's attached to the gearbox directly. Did you change oil at the same time? I did the gearbox mount first, the oil had previously been done about 2 years before (I stick with the Nissan oil). That vastly improved it, no grinding. Then Kaizer/Sly did the diff mounts as the main one had popped, then several weeks later he did the engine mounts. It progressively got better and better each time. Fast forward about another 8 months and I just did the gearbox/diff oil again I've posted this before, so the OP can have a seach and see if they want to do this. I'd probably just start with a new gearbox mount, but my ones are poly just to clear any confusion (except engine mounts are vibratechnics). The reason I'd say try a new standard gearbox mount first is that a poly one will bring potentially unwanted vibration. Just thinking, I wonder if the mounts going droops the box then puts load on the prop, thus output shaft on the tail of the box... The Prop is a sliding UV joint, but if it had come to the range of motion, it could happen... No idea if that is the case by the way

BOOM! And there you have it. They can sell you any old sh1t but as long as it's priced at ~£700, you'll all be happy. I rest my case

But did you not say yourself that they were the entry level MeisterR's ? (£700 vs £1800) ZetaRs wherever they are on the scale of things now. Otherwise, I don't see your point. What are £1800, the new MeisterRs? The KWv3s are £1600. They are the entry level ones, or cheapest if you like. And your comparing the top end road/track day KW v3s which cost £1728 RRP (or cheaper potentially elsewhere) against them, which seems pointless. Same as comparing Bilstein B6 shocks against their top road/track day shocks, obviously more development has gone into the higher ones (I'd hope). You were the one asking whether you'd get a better ride from KWv3. I said yes you will. Everyone else thinks not.

Interesting. How would mounts affect the syhncro operation unless you get somesort of outer casing distortion. The shifter isn't on external cables/rods - it's attached to the gearbox directly. Did you change oil at the same time?

But did you not say yourself that they were the entry level MeisterR's ? (£700 vs £1800) ZetaRs wherever they are on the scale of things now. Otherwise, I don't see your point. What are £1800, the new MeisterRs? The KWv3s are £1600.

I don't know what your problem is mate but the majority of posts I've seen from you are overly aggressive and self righteous, there's no need to attack people because you disagree with them. Yep... and still no apology for claiming Meister's post was plagiarised. Are you on commission from KW or something? Nope. But Jerrick earns for his wares sold. Make of that what you will. And the stuff Jerrick posted is all available from the internet - nothing new there. https://www.qa1.net/...monotube-shocks https://www.tein.co....ecial/ni_toryu/ A couple of links out of the hundreds available A fast road setup is what we in vehicle dynamics class as a "Tarmac Rally" setup. So why not call it a tarmac rally setup? And I can absolutely promise you a road car DOESN'T want the same dynamics as a Tarmac rally car. This is before owner profiling has entered the equation. Stop confusing these people with your psuedo science. It's you who is confusing everyone with your pedantic techno babble, accurate or not, it's you that's muddying the waters of what are already clearly defined terms in the car world, because they don't fit your vision of the perfect car setup, or allow you to pedantically pick apart other members whose comments you don't agree with or appreciate. Everyone knows what a fast road setup is except you it seems. Yes, it is obvious why they call it that rather than a rally setup which WOULD be confusing. Both terms are equally accurate, but the layman will get a better impression from 'fast road' setup, as that's what he thinks he is, fast on the road. A slightly stiffer setup usually with a little less understeer is what everyone calls a fast road setup, however that is achieved. Secondly, are you REALLY suggesting to people that drive their cars only on the road, that A. any set of coilovers is really worth the expense unles you are lowering a good amount (which you are doing for looks not handling and therefore matters not a jot which coilovers you choose) and B. that if one is going to that expense, that KW v3 is the minimum satisfactory spec? Rubbish. I had V3s on my 400hp e92 335xi, I now have HSD monopros on my Z and can't tell the difference. I drive quite well for an amateur and on slippery greek roads too, but I DO NOT test the limits of my setups, nor even close, I'm not THAT good, and neither are 99.9% of people on this forum. Imagine if you ran a bakery... You: "Hello, what can I do for you?" Customer: "I'd like a chocolate cake please" You: "a what?" Customer: "A chocolate cake please" You: "'a chocolate cake' covers such a wide range of possibilities and variables, I still don't know what you want" Customer: "er, ok, well what have you got that fits the description of a chocolate cake?" You: "I have this cake, with chocolate sponge, and chocolate icing" Customer: "so, it's a chocolate cake then" You: "well, yes and no. There are chocolate cakes and chocolate cakes" Customer: "ok, I'll take it anyway" You: "that's 50 pounds please" Customer: "What? 50 pounds for a cake?" You: "Yes, it's the very best example of its kind" Customer: "But I only need it for my daughter's 8th birthday, we're not having the Queen for tea" You: "Ah but now you'll have the best under all circumstances! What if the Queen DID pop in for tea?" Customer: "..." I could tell the difference between the MeisterRs and the KWv3s in the first couple of hundred yards. It wasn't about on the limit handling either - ride quality, compliance, lack of roll, response. I was very sceptical actually and didn't think they were going to be that much better! If you are after looks, just get the £300 chinese stuff. I have a couple of friends who run it and it's actually ok. More crashy than OEM, just like the MeisterR stuff was, but then for £300 happy days If you want to lower your car but be able to tell your mates down the car show that you have 'insertpeerhighlyratedproductnamehere' then the Tein Basic for £450 seems ideal. I do believe I was commending them in a different thread. Fast Road setup. There is no such thing. If you can't accept that, then there isn't much I can do about it. Now, I can accept that you have differing setups for road and track, but they will be different than what someone else wants. As such if you go to a Geo guy and he says 'Yeah, use this setup, it's a fast road setup' he's talking out of his arse. You may get in and find the car skittish, oversteery, and unstable. You may find it doesn't turn in and washes out mid corner. This is because you will want what you prefer. If you don't know what you want, start at the Manufacturer spec (even if you're lowered) and then work from there. A good Geo guy will tell you all this. He'll set the car up and you'll go back to him after a few hundred miles and say 'It feel good, but the rear feels a bit loose under braking' He will then go and add more rear toe in and you try again. The only reason to sell a 'Fast Road' setup is to offer less knowledgeable people a sense of value for money. No one wants a stock setup because everyone is a driving God and they need a 'Fast Road' setup....ok. If you want to compare suspension to Chocolate cake, fair enough. But I think it's fair to say that you are being forthcoming with demonstrating your lack of knowledge. As such, should you really be giving advice? By the way, should anyone want to come and discuss suspension/handling with me I am based in the North West so feel free to PM me It took me many years of reading and thousands of pounds on geo to get a good understanding of what is going on so I am more than happy to save you a few quid

We've all been there And then you realise how much money/time/bullsh1t you've wasted!! I suppose, in a way, it's a right of passage. I'm sure people told me that I was stupid but I ignored them to find out the hard way. As they say: Experience is a fine teacher, but the fees are high

Yeah, it's once you get the charger on, you'll find yourself hunting for more boost (Bigger pulley/upgraded wastegate etc etc) - it's what the more power brigade tend to do and it's a slippery slope. So yeah, that supercharger kit that boosts 8psi standard gets you 430bhp and it's all nice and driveable. Hell, thanks to the boost, you're getting a significant reduction in the compression/tension stress fluctuation on the rod that you get with N/A so there is a case for increased reliability! I don't think it matters what type of engine you start with - N/A or boost. Chuck a turbo on a HR engine and you're good for 500+bhp which is a lot! S2000s can also do 500bhp with turbos and I have insalled supers on two cars making 460bhp+ (and not at TDI North daft dyno either). How much would you need to spend on a BMW B55 engine to get that?! Obviously going beyond this you're looking at pistons, then rods, then big turbos, then meth injection, then race fuel etc. It all becomes much of a muchness because you'll be throwing money down the turbine But I regularly see 5-600bhp Evos turn up on track and down the straight you wonder which way they've gone until you get on the brakes and enter the corner to wonder if they have Miss Daisy in the passenger seat Having driven a few Evos, they are extremely capable, but dull as dish water IMHO. If you want to appear a good driver when you're not, they're an amazing car for making you look like a hero

Be careful hunting for power. The only thing it leads to is wanting more power. I see the 'MORE POWER' brigade on track and they are trying to implement a quick fix. I have driven 200mph+ 700bhp+ RWD cars and yeah, it's great fun to toast an Audi R8/911 Turbo or whatever...once. Then it get's boring, expensive, you lose the sublime nature of the car and you're constantly wondering whether or not it's detting, overheating, missing, etc etc. Obviously compared to my other machinery, the 350Z is 'reserved' in terms of performance, but in terms of the real world it is PLENTY enough power to get past everything I need to on single carriageway roads. Perhaps getting a 4:1 diff might give you the extra pep you want along with making the car a bit more willing? Yeah, the road favours the car. Hopefully you noticed the lines on the bike were so because of obstacle avoidance leaving you to be compromised on ideal entry. Again, part of the challenge! The thing is the roads in the UK are going to be like that most of the time - pot holes, damp in parts, tree sap, grids etc. The roads I like on a bike are twisty. But yeah, even though that is a quick car and the bike a 600, it does pull quickly.

It was very much tongue in cheek with that one! I should have put a smiley at the end, my apologies. Forgive me for what appears like aggression, but I see people being taken advantage of and it gets my back up.

RTFT!

Yes, but you are still limited more round the bends on a bike than a car. This is down to simple dynamics. In a car, you have your circle of grip and can use this divided up in any way you want. So if you're cornering at 70% grip, you can brake with the other 30% grip (I'm ignoring weight transfer here for simplicity). Once you enter a corner on a bike, you have almost no braking because if you hit the front brake, the bike is going to want to stand up. Hit it too hard and the front end goes meaning you're on the deck. Yeah use the back brake but it'll do feck all for actual retardation Thus on a bike it's very much slow in, fast out, whereas a car can carry more corner speed safely. On a track, it'd be a bit different. Where the car absolutely BATTERS the bike is on change of direction. Looking on from the bike as it happens, you are all

Here is a clip of two random people - one in a car and one on a bike. The guy on the bike rides a lot like me. The guy in the car a lot like my mate The road was the Cat and Fiddle. As you can tell, it's dark, the road had wet patches and there is lots of sand and gravel all over it. The white lines were like ice! The car was a LOT faster than the bike. Bike - 2013 tuned GSXR 600. Car - 2011 MK Indy RR CBR1000RR

A fast road setup is what we in vehicle dynamics class as a "Tarmac Rally" setup. So why not call it a tarmac rally setup? And I can absolutely promise you a road car DOESN'T want the same dynamics as a Tarmac rally car. This is before owner profiling has entered the equation. Stop confusing these people with your psuedo science.

First thing is first - service the car. New oil filter, engine oil, gearbox oil, diff oil. If he has only done low miles in it, they'll have been short journies and nothing is worse for engine oil than short journeys because no evap of moisture and accelerated degradation of oil. Coolant can be tested, but it lasts 5yrs so no major worry. Now look underneath the car. Is anything loose, are any of the bushes looking tired, is the plastic wind tray secured properly? Sort these. All those mods and no mention of tyres?! I'd get some decent spec rubber on it quicksmart. After you fit new tyres, then get a geo. You need to learn to drive the car first with a baseline geo (Factor setup) otherwise your touch on the car will be when you plough it into a wall. Then you can decide what to do. Don't listen to anyone who says 'Yeah, use my FAST ROAD geo!' Total rubbish. Even if you aren't panning on tracking it, get Yellowstuff pads. Reds won't cut it. If you are planning on tracking it, get Orangestuff. Get yourself booked on some advanced driver courses. The safety features on the Z are effective, but in a 300bhp RWD car, you should be able to handle and be comfortable with a slide. The rust is interesting. The wing way have had a repair previously. I'd budget £200 for it.

Did you mean 137,000? Regardless, yes it is about how it has been looked after, but everything has a finite life.

So why has NO car gone round the iom tt quicker than a bike, its straights and corners? Because no racing driver is quite as mental as the lads who do the TT Do you ride?

I think people have misunderstood the original scope of my post. Different vehicles do different things and expecting a 'one fits all' is going to lead to a good dollop of compromise. And this all stems back to the original post - is it worth an upgrade? Well, if you are happy with the 350Z, you can spend the money on other things that give you a better experience in a specific area. I would suggest to anyone to at least go and do their motorbike license because it'll open your eyes. Riding teaches you discipline like you wouldn't believe, especially if you ride all seasons in wind/wet/snow. I relish the challenge and like to think it helps keep me sharp. BTW, no way that S1000RR that got to 186mph in 11.86 seconds was stock. Standard ones do 1/4 in just under 10 seconds at 140 terminal. The only way it'd be close is if the rider weighed 40kg or something daft. So why would you get a 370Z over a 350Z? Many reasons (look, interior, price, mods etc etc). The only one I would say is weak is if you are hoping to impress others with it as some sort of status symbol. There was a woman at the gym who bought on PCP and couldn't actually afford to drive it much. But she enjoyed being 'seen' in it at the gym. If your life really is that shallow then there's no hope, but it's not uncommon. If you want a 'better' experience, then I can't see how you're going to get it. Perhaps you want to go on track more - get a BEC seven clone and never look back. Perhaps the everyday grind of driving is such that your 350Z is needlessly costing you fuel and you're stuck in traffic for 70% of the journey anyway - get a Toyota Aygo. You need a bigger vehicle that you can throw all your wares in and carry multiple people around in, get a Diesel estate. You want a completely new experience - learn to fly. All of these are potential options if you keep the 350Z

I'm sure it's mentioned in the 81 pager, but when fitting polybushes, you ideally need to ream them so that they fit the collars with as close to zero friction as possible. Then, once fitted, you need to make sure the lugs aren't clamping them. All of this amounts to sticktion which you don't get with metallastic bushes. The worst thing about stciktion is when you go and get your car geo'ed.

What is a fast road set up? This is banded about on lots of forums and it is borderline cringeworthy. There is no such thing as a fast road setup. But to answer your question the high speed damping and control of the KWv3 smashes the MeisterR. This is not just a benefit for roads, but track too as you can attack the curbs more aggressively without losing your wheel contact. I payed 1250 for my v3 they are epic I love them PM me for details of who to speak to regards price I dont want to be a tosser about it but this suggests anyone can get them for £1250 ......... not as part of group buy if there are enough other people and the vendor decides to go for it. As it stands they are £1600 odd for my car and apparently £1700 for a 350Z which is a good few hundred more than Meisters and more than twice what HSD cost. I must admit, it's a borderline unbelievable price. I hope it's true though! Yeah, the v3 are more expensive than the HSD's and Mesiter's, but that's because they are better. The Ohlins DFV aren't as good and you're really paying for the name. For £2500 range you're looking at Nitron's and AST http://www.ast-suspension.co.uk/shop/shockabsorbers/5200/ast-2-way-5200-nissan-350z-fairlady-z-detail

There is no science behind that to be fair. You'll use oil if you don't have a good seal between rings and bore, valve stem seals worn, sump/rocker cover gasket failure/puncture. If you were getting detonation, you'd probably use less oil as piston temps would be higher and ring gap would reduce!

I tried using a Saab 9000 for work once (much better than a Mondeo) ....... I lasted about a week as what had been a reasonably enjoyable drive turned into a slow and boring one Im not saying they are the be all and end all but the E8* and F2* with the bigger engines and fast Golfs are as close to a single car that does everything I can think of: 5 seats with big boot or hatchback with 2, 3 or 5 doors, as standard they will do 40+ mpg easily and even with 997T performance can still see 30+ mpg. They are fun for a thrash, great on a run, have excellent cabin and build quality and are good enough to embarrass a lot of stuff on track, the Golfs are bulletproof and later 1 series are pretty reliable too. When you can get all of that for under £15K and not worry about depreciation thats a difficult argument to beat - even servicing isnt too bad if you take it to an Indy. No doubt someone will say "mehh, but they all look the same" but realistically nearly anything with 4 seats and a boot looks the same as everything else anyway. Ive always said that BMW are the place to look if you only need one car - 330d touring and 535d touring are just magnificent family cars, and the M550d I drove a little while ago was the definition of executive express but still returned 35mpg at Autobahn speeds. I used to describe the the E46 M3 4 door as the best single car purchase anywhere and the B58 engine 1 and 2 series are moving the game on again, standard cars are actually showing better power and torque figures than M2's ........ :o Im sure there are other cars that can be all things to all men, the days of having to have a family car, a commuting hack and a weekend car are long gone IMO I'm not caring about straight line performance with the Mondeo. But it's more reliable than a Saab and the bits are cheaper if it should go wrong. I paid £1500 for my Mondeo 3 years ago and it keeps going. Never failed to start and tows the kit car with ease. It is getting chopped in for a van though I think. You think of performance as straight lines. Bored. If You want a stright line rush, like I said, get a bike. 0-140mph in 10 seconds. No diesel cancer bus should ever be allowed on a track and I don't care how many times Audi have won Le Mans with them. I just don't see how one car fits, too much of a compromise especially if your car likes to see track. The one thing you don't get from a turbo car is a crisp throttle. Said mate who had the M135i immediately commented on how direct the 350Z makes it's power and how responsive it is. The other thing a 135 lacks is an LSD which is a big loss. I haven't had chance to give one death on a track yet and haven't even seen one on track to comment on their true on the limit composure. I took a 335i around Curbrough sprint course and was impressed at the ability of the front end. The lack of diff probably cost it a couple of seconds in laptime though, especially with the jumped up auto box.

Hahahaha! You do realise that's all copy and paste from other sites. It's been doing the rounds for years!

You really need multiple vehicles - no one vehicle does everything. Mondeo is probably the best car you'll ever buy. There is a reason they ban them from banger racing! Massive boot, get the dogs in, tow the trailer, 50+mpg and parts are stupid cheap (new rear hub, bearing with ABS sensor - £40 :o) Lotus 7 replica with S2000 engine - If you have never driven a Seven type car do so. Everything else is pretty crap afterwards short of going down the Formula Ford/F3 car route and they don't let them on trackdays very often. I have thrown a lot of money at mine and had to redesign part of the chassis to deal with longitudinal torque reaction and to install a new differential from an RX8. 240bhp, 570kg (a real wet figure, not the flight of fancy numbers you often see quoted), RWD, no roof, no doors, no brake servo, no PAS, no driver aids of any kind. The chassis mine is based on is a Roadrunner Racing SR2. I'd suggest a Westfield Mega S2000!! Avoid anything with a Type 9 box. People rave about them cos the're lightweight. They're sh1t, break and mine had a £2k Quaife straight cut gearset in it. For true thrills and straightline performance, get a bike. You can't understand how amazing they are until you have a go on one. You also won't understand how limited your observational skills are until you ride one too! Which leaves the 350Z. I looked at the 370Z, and the interior is a nice place to be. This is a big deal as it's where you spend your time and what you have to look at. Pragmatism wins the day though and I didn't see why the 370 was twice the price of the 350. I actually prefer the exterior look of the 350Z too. Again, that is my preference and your mileage may vary The 350Z fits the bill of being a good cruiser (I have a 500 mile round trip to do next week), can do the odd trackday/Nurburgring trip, makes a nice noise, won't suffer much from depreciation, and wears 18" rather than 19" wheels meaning cheaper tyres. Being the facelift HR the interior is good enough and the engine a guddun. Chasing my mates E92 M3, it doesn't lose out that much in terms of straight line performance and it can overtake flotsum and jetsum with ease. A few people mentioning BMWs and they are a brilliant machine. The engine is great! My mate has a 2014 M135i and it's a great place to be plus has surging performance. Practical too. Definitely not worth getting the premium M cars over the likes of the M140/240i etc.

The reason we don't offer double adjustable dampers is because we feel most owners will obtain better performance with a single adjustable damper. All MeisterR dampers are compression & rebound combined adjustable mono-tube dampers. What that mean is that the compression force adjust along with the rebound force, there is no need to have a separate adjustment to adjust the compression force. Most Twin-tube dampers are rebound only adjustment as a single adjustable setup (KW V2, Koni Yellow Sport, etc). That is why they need to add in an additional adjustment in order to control the compression force. As the damping ratio are pre-designed within the adjustment with the MeisterR, this makes damping adjustment easier and eliminate the possibility of incorrect adjustments. If an owner was not sure on how to adjust a 2-way damper, they could easily end up with a 1:5 compression to rebound ratio, and that will not be very good for performance. This will not happen if the owners is using a compression & rebound combined adjustable damper. We can to separate adjustable dampers, and it is in the plan. This is more for race car and we will go straight to a 3-way adjustable with an external reservoir. Because if any car require more than the GT1, then a 3-way with a high speed compression blow off will provide much better performance. Here is a plot of the adjustment, taken at 140mm/s. The line is full stiff, -5 clicks, -10 clicks, -15 clicks, -20 clicks, full soft. We take the adjustments this way because 140mm/s is our "stick in the mud" point for vehicle dynamic analysis. The same stick that Bilstein had been using since the 1970's, so most have been using this speed for vehicle dynamic ever since. But you can see how the ratio changes as well as the cracking pressure (bleed), which is all the important thing we need to know in order to see how the damper will work on the vehicle dynamically. Jerrick So how do you set the ratio of bound to rebound on adjustment to compensate for the unsprung mass of the 350z? Obviously you have tested every single car to come up with that ratio?