Rocket_Rabbit

Ok, so fitted mine at the weekend.

First thing - the washers included were next to useless and completely too small.  Make sure you buy some wider ones.

The next issue I had was the the rear bolts for the OEM tray had sheared flush.  Now about an inch behind those are some other threaded holes.

I tried what I could to adjust the tray to reach, but it was a good portion short.

So I ended up making some brackets for it.  Bit of a pain as I was on the deck, but I get them made and managed to tighten the tray up nicely.

Yes - hole lands are small, this was a space issue.  3mm thick ally anyway, so will be strong enough

Great review.

I bought one specifically for the last part of your post - my OEM one has died taking some of the arch liners with it :(

I know this is 3 years ago, but seeing as I'm getting hesitation myself, just wondering if you got rid of it?

I thought about a private plate, but then your car becomes more unique and people see you do things in it.  Anonymity for the win

So this has been resolved!  I ordered a pair of TBs from the US, they sent me 2 right hand ones, so they then sent me a left hand one as well!

Turns out I didn't even need them...

I ordered 2 new Hitachi AFMs (I tried the cheap ones but they were sh1t so got a pair from Rock Auto).  Installed them, did the pedal dance and immediately 700rpm.  Car doesn't misfire and throttle response is back to normal!

Very very pleased

Just picked up the car from Crewe Nissan. £120 down the drain - did absolutely nothing despite the service lady saying it had been sorted. That and they lost my phone number so I had to chase them. Sh1t service really. Oh well, new throttles it is!!

2 hours ago, slipstream said:

Any updates yet ?

I went to get Nissan to do it but obviously everyone is on Holiday.  My car is booked in for Thursday so we'll see what happens and I'll let you know.

I have a pair of throttles lined up for £170 from a 370Z from the US (Taxes and shipped) - some bloke wanted £400 on eBay - yeah - having a giraffe with that!

Might be worth taking your steering wheel off see if the cables have come loose/something broken.

23 minutes ago, slipstream said:

I had similar with the revs to high i tried pedal dance and everything else, but no luck, in the end it went to nissan for them to rest the throttles on there machine and all has been fine since.

 

This happened to mine after I had cleaned the throttle body's. 

Yeah I might have seen one of your posts when doing my research.  This was another port of call.  I might pop over there tomorrow see if they can do anything

5 hours ago, ZMANALEX said:

I would try an uprev tune first, however, if you require a pair of TBs, I have fully working low mileage in stock as well as HR ECUs etc. etc.etc.

Just drop me a pm if I can help further.

Alex.

Yep, I have a tuner uprev license for this very reason.

Appreciate the offer though.

Thanks

I have driven a DE revup and a HR back to back.  The performance difference is noticeable..just.

In any world that isn't timed and in a race, there will be no difference.

However...

The HR is the more exciting engine.  Those extra revs and the way it responds it just feels more eager.  This, IMHO, is more important than the 0.5 1/4 mile BS.

There are others - the dipstick is a doddle to read and it hasn't used ANY oil in the 15k miles I have done in mine whereas the DE Revup got through about 1 litre per 1k miles and you could only guess at the oil level with the dipstick.

The above thoughts are those of the DE RU owner and mine.

People who bleat on about the tax...  It's £215 per year (55p per day) more which is absolutely NOTHING in terms of running these cars.  

If you want to pootle around and park your car, the DE is more than enough, but if you really like driving for the fun of driving the HR is worth the go IMHO.

That is 100% not to say that the DE is a POS because it isn't.

But if the DE is felatio, the HR is felatio with eye contact

Ask around a few garages local to you and get some prices.  There is nothing special about a 350Z clutch.

I'm at the point of buying replacement throttles now, but thought I'd give it one last go before l cave in.

Car was fine, went away for a couple of weeks, came back and it has a strange idle issue and hunting between 1500 and 2000rpm.

Que reset, self learn reset, throttle position reset, pedal dance, unplugging throttles, cleaning AFMs, new sparkplugs, replaced galley gaskets (in for a penny etc but they did need doing), running NDSIII and using that, thoroughly cleaning throttles (after they had been unplugged first).

The lowest I can get the idle is 900rpm, but the hunting still occurs, with a hang at 1500rpm after a rev, them a rev up to about 2k, and then back to 900 so not drastic but not right either.  The NDSIII learn never completes (Either IAVL failed or times out of 3000).  All parameters for idle relearn are met (>75ºC water, steering straight, no eleccy load, handbrake on, no CEL, prerequisite prayers to the Nissan Gods etc).

The ECU is an EV16A but since this started happening without the throttles being removed, so I have ruled out the 'you don't know sh1t about 350s and you've fuzzy ducked your ECU!' reason and I'm pointing towards the throttles.

My guess is that either the sensor has gone somewhat or the throttle plate has worn enough that it can no longer close enough to drop the rpm enough to reach target idle.  With the throttles unplugged, the car idles at 1200rpm.

My only idea is that there is what APPEARS to be a idle control screw (well, a throttle closed position screw in any case)  I did try having a go at moving it but it was pretty stuck (locknut came undone but screw didn't turn).

So if anyone has any ideas, I'd be mroe than welcome to hear them.

TIA


 

On 12/20/2017 at 19:35, Dracostan said:

Indeed, the horseshoe is for additional volume. I think it will also help balance the draw for the rear cylinders, but that's really a bit of 'finger-in-the-air' fluid dynamics !  The CAD s/w I have does have fluid flow simulation, so I can see what the airflow paths will be - I should be able to simulate draw on each individual inlet port too, so I won't be going at it completely blind.

I did think about angling the intake pipes to the airflow, but the space available on top of the engine is a bit restricted by the rear bulkhead of the bay and the cam covers at the front, so I have only a short distance to fit them.

I also have a 'W' shaped version that gives more volume and keeps the throttle bodies in the 'OEM position' in the bay, but I don't think it looks as good as the V one:

 

Yeah this is going to lose you performance over the OEM intake.  Each pulse is going to negatively affect the flow backwards and forwards per fire - it'll be like shaking a milkshake!  There is a reason plenums are used - it's cos they work

Cut your springs and get helper springs.

Who knows what a fast road is? A road, B road, Motorway, whites????

 

Fast road is not 100% track focused and too aggressive to use on the street, but also not focused at comfort, economy or tyre life either.

??? So it's not track but it's too aggressive to be used on the street? Sounds like a bad setup to me if you can't use it anywhere?!

Simply put, a setup thats optimised to be as fast as possible on roads, from bumpy B Roads to sweeping Autobahns.

Optimised? You mean compromised. A b-road and an Autobahn are VERY different and you cannot possibly expect to be optimised to both unless you have adaptive dampers

The fact google returns 589,000 hits for "Fast Road Setup" suggests Im not alone on understanding this.

'God' comes back with 1.6 Billion hits and he doesn't exist, so I think it's fair to say hit quota on google means nothing.

As for the rest of it, you can see it any way you like but there is more than an element of trolling to some of your posts on this thread dude.

Well, see it the way serious people who set up their cars see it.

Now, saying that you have a preferred setup for the track, but take off some camber for the road is fine. Saying that you have a setup for the track and a setup for the road is fine. But if someone asks you 'What is your road setup and you say 'It's fast road'...

Call it trolling if you want, it's Monty Hall paradox as far as I'm concerned.

I'm assuming your GT1 is?

 

Correct.

Technically on the car already but need to finish off height and other bits tomorrow.

???

Critically damped to both compression and rebound for the 350Z? Fair play, I have no idea of the un/sprung masses, but if you do, nice one

Moving to your car, what dampers were on it before, OEM?

Stop confusing these people with your psuedo science.

 

I am still waiting for your REAL science.

 

And while we are on science, let me ask you a VERY BASIC questions.

All vehicle dynamics start with a single point, and that is 100% critical damping force (specifically critical rebound force).

 

At what adjustment does your beloved KW V3 reach critical rebound force?

Because without knowing that adjustment point, it is literally impossible to tune a dampers.

 

That is just pure science, something that is calculate-able and presentable on a piece of paper.

So please let us know about REAL science on your KW V3, because we are all waiting

 

Jerrick

You tell me the unsprung weight of the Nissan and how you factored it into the compression/rebound ratios. That was my whole point - it's adjustable so the critical mass or adjustability ratio (between compression/rebound on single adjuster) is not 'essential' as you can tailor more for individual preference.

That is undeniable.

But yes should you have the weight of the sprung/unsprung masses to hand, you could easily find out whether or not the range is within the KWv3 spec.

I'm assuming your GT1 is?

I thought my fi'd 350 was brilliant, i had zero intention of selling, but i was using the car more on track than road and realised i would better off in something more suited to track use.

 

I would have another for sure

Exactly. My S2000 got chopped many years ago for something more track focused (NA YAB Cosworth Westfield). Very tempted to go downforce car now, but then absolutely no chance of using it on the road.

But that is why I bought the 350Z in the first place. On the road, it's a do all machine but other vehicles are required for other uses.

Whilst the new mounts are a good idea if yours have gone there is no guarantee it'll fix it. As I said, my hypothesis would be that propshaft loading is putting strain on the output shaft and moving it slightly. Otherwise, and I'd be astonished by the, the gearbox case is warping under load.

 

My guess is that the Synchros are worn though and it'll be a rebuild required.

An independent examiner apparently stripped the gearbox and found no signs of wear. :S

Did he give you values of measurements he'd taken, or just said he saw no wear? Whilst you can get big chunks, you more likely going to get wear of particles suspended in oil and lost with an oil change. No only that, but the wear only has to be slight to hinder the performance to cause that grind.

No doubting it is worth replacing your mounts if they're gone mind. Have a look under the car, take some pics for us!

Replies #29 & #31

 

Take some time to look through his channel IF you are interested in suspension.

Haven't seen him before - yeah, I'll have a look Interested in his review of aftermarket vs OEM.

Did you watch the videos I put up ?

Where?

Whilst the new mounts are a good idea if yours have gone there is no guarantee it'll fix it. As I said, my hypothesis would be that propshaft loading is putting strain on the output shaft and moving it slightly. Otherwise, and I'd be astonished by the, the gearbox case is warping under load.

My guess is that the Synchros are worn though and it'll be a rebuild required.

So far I haven't manage to find any bad reviews on Meister Gt1's out there from various users on various cars. And have been looking for last day or two. A guy who is lapping Ring 08:25 with Ep3 has only words of praise for them and that result I think speaks for it self. So either Meister is putting a lot of effort in propaganda or actually this coilovers are doing a good job

 

Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk

What does that ring time tell you? It tells you nothing other than pub ammo. You don't know the driver experience, conditions, setup, mods, tyres or anything else. Like that Ring Banana MX5. Goes around sets a time. Sticks on MeisterRs, it's 25 seconds faster. ALong with tyres, geometry, and course familirasation plus who know what traffic was in the way.

Just because a suspension is expensive, it doesn't make it any better if the suspension setting was wrong to begin with.

Spending £3000 for some race suspension and putting it on a road car, will yield poorer performance than a £700 suspension that were designed for road use to begin with.

 

Which is exactly what Shaikh proved in several of his videos, in particular Motons that were really intended for track use only, plus a heap of phase delay with ridiculously long piping for the external reservoir.

That's obviously NOT to say they are poor quality but were used for the wrong application and were revalved.

Just for an example.

Nitron and AST will customise for your application.

So why not call it a tarmac rally setup? And I can absolutely promise you a road car DOESN'T want the same dynamics as a Tarmac rally car.

 

This is before owner profiling has entered the equation.

 

Stop confusing these people with your psuedo science.

 

I don't know what your problem is mate but the majority of posts I've seen from you are overly aggressive and self righteous, there's no need to attack people because you disagree with them.

 

Yep... and still no apology for claiming Meister's post was plagiarised.

 

Are you on commission from KW or something?

 

Nope. But Jerrick earns for his wares sold. Make of that what you will.

 

And the stuff Jerrick posted is all available from the internet - nothing new there.

 

https://www.qa1.net/...monotube-shocks

https://www.tein.co....ecial/ni_toryu/

 

A couple of links out of the hundreds available

 

Nope, I think you misunderstand... you accused him of "copying and pasting" his post, but now you're merely backing that up with "well it's public domain info"... that's not the same thing at all. It's been public domain info since Principia Mathematica, that doesn't mean all physicists are plagiarists!

 

Have your winky and smiley back

Yep, you're absolutely right and it was a poor choice of words from me. I apologise. Please see those links for advantages and disadvantages of each system and not just the disadvantages for twin tube

All people need to know is that if you are looking for a good street coilover, anything over 700 quid will be decent,

BOOM! And there you have it. They can sell you any old sh1t but as long as it's priced at ~£700, you'll all be happy.

 

I rest my case

 

Why are you being such a knob? Thats not what he said at all.

 

Similarly comparing £700 MeisterRs with £1700 KW's isnt valid, and then going on to repeatedly knock Jerrick and the GT1 despite never actually trying them out is just a massive dick move.

 

Jerrick is undoubtedly one of the better traders in this scene, understanding his product and providing evidence and real world experience whenever anyone asks. The stuff he types is not copy and paste, the guy genuinely knows what he is talking about.

 

Your bullshit about "fast road" not actually existing (Ive been using the term for 20 years without any misunderstanding) and avoiding direct questions isnt helping anyone, least of all yourself. FWIW Im 99% Ill be ordering some GT1's in the very near future, if they are rubbish youll be the first to know but I doubt they will be.

Why can't you compare £700 MesiterRs to £1700 KWv3s? I just did and the result was what it was. You know, going back to the original post, it was about KWv3s. I never mentioned anything about GT1s other than I have had experience with MeisterR quality before and I found it poor. Because of that, I wouldn't buy the GT1s. Now, as I mentioned, the GT1's could be the best damper in the world ever and resist corrosion better than stainless steel. Brill, happy for them to be that way. I won't be taking that chance though because of afore mentioned reasons.

Fast road is bullshit. When someone comes to me I do not tell them I have a Fast Road setup. I'll tell them Camber, Castor, and Toe values. Saying to someone you have a fast road setup on your Nissan 350Z is meaningless. Sounds good to the uninitiated, but tell you nothing.

What tyres have you got on you car? Fast road tyres.

What springs have you got? Fast road springs.

I also have a fast road air intake and a fast road exhaust.

Let's say I'm on a trackday at Oulton and someone comes over because they too have a 350Z. They ask what mods I have done. Then I say to them 'Yeah, it's got an Oulton Park setup on it' what have I actually just told him?! Well, more than fast road. Who knows what a fast road is? A road, B road, Motorway, whites????

I look forward to your review. I hope they're a good damper for you

Not familiar with the basics of free market economics either. Oh well. /shrug.

You were the one asking whether you'd get a better ride from KWv3. I said yes you will. Everyone else thinks not.

I work for a reseller. Sometimes we make 5 points, sometimes we make 100 points. But if you think that because something at a certain price point means you get a certain quality...come on

You were the one asking whether you'd get a better ride from KWv3. I said yes you will. Everyone else thinks not.

 

Yup, and I've zero problem with that, it's great to get a confirmation from people with them on the cars.

I just pointed out that it seemed fruitless to compare what you'd suggested as that is highly suggestive to say that all of the MeisterR models are the same, that's not on.

No, I can't comment on GT1s, I haven't experienced them. They could be the best damper in the world ever and I could very well be blown away by them. The coatings could resist corrosion better than stainless steel. What I did say was that my experiences with them (MeisterR dampers) wasn't good thus I wouldn't buy them again (once bitten, twice shy and all) and that the KWv3s were better than the ones I used. That's it. I totally understand that it may come as no shock because the KWv3s are twice the price. Yep, agree. Having said that, it shocked (no pun intended ) me how much better they were. I was genuinely NOT expecting it.