Reece350z

does anyone have an IPDM for sale that will fit my 350z 2003 import?

thanks

reece

Can someone please help and tell me if there auto 350z shows what gear it's in while the ignition is on, If it displays it on the dashboard.

Thanks

Tested from ignition switch to starter relay, getting 12v there.. So it's not my ignition switch.

Tested continuity from starter relay terminal to the connector for the starter solenoid and it's okay.

Swapped and tested relays around and still no crank no start.

I'm struggling to find the TCM I think it's inside the gearbox sump?

I'm almost certain now it's the PNP switch but I can't find that unless it's what the green connecter goes into on the side of the gearbox.

Anyone have any ideas on what I can do next?

Thanks

I've used a power probe to the solenoid and it turns over okay.. So I'm thinking now it's ignition switch? Or NATS?

He's been the man with all my other problems!

It took a while cranking to start but got there eventually!

The earth band? From the block to chassis?

That's there.. I ran a big cable from the negative terminal to the starter bolt and it still didn't work.

So after all my bad luck with this car it's got worse!

2002 Nissan 350z fairlady auto with approx 87000miles

The sump was leaking so took it off and resealed it all.. So that's the oil leak fixed.

Went to start it up and nothing what so ever.. The starter wasn't turning or even clicking can just hear a lot of different beeping by the throttle body..

Doesn't stop but never heard it before this problem?

Tested the battery with load and tested fine

So took the starter off and tested it on the bench and it works fine but couldn't hear the solenoid clicking as it should?

Tested the starter relay and checked all fuses and they're all okay.

Tried putting an earth right from the battery to the starter to eliminate any earthing issues and still nothing

However when I checked the negative connector which runs towards the starter motor I don't get a voltage while cranking. Is that NATS?

Also doesn't display the gear-lever position on the dash with ignition on but can't remember if it did or not before it, it's currently a black screen.

Has it forget the key after having battery disconnected for a week or so?

It has what I think is an aftermarket immobiliser with a fob you push in.. Not sure if that's standard.

Does anyone have any ideas where to look next?

Been a while but just an update. Had management light on again for knock sensor and camshaft sensor (again) so change the knock sensor wiring as when I uncovered the cores they were all burnt out! Then changed the camshaft sensor but it was different it was circular and metal shape instead of flat black plastic. Anyway changed and fired up fine with no lights on! Just started the rebuild the rear brakes as one was grinding.. Slowly but surely getting there.. What a nightmare

Thanks for the replies, will try this tomorrow and let everyone know how I get on!

So just to be clear for others who may have the same issue can you confirm that the issue was the fly or CPS or both ?

I think the non start issue was down to CPS and the revving issue was due to flywheel. Struggling to bleed it now as Heaters are cold and temp Gauge is near the top!

Update: car all back together now and running fine took it out for a drive and noticed temp gauge slightly up.

Took it back home and topped coolant up and there was a crack in the radiator plastic housing at the top.

Fitted a new radiator then and all is good runs nicely.

Just have an exhaust leak to fix tonight and it's back on the road! Woo 😊

Update:

Just removed the gearbox tonight and noticed the fly wheel is bent!

Due to stupidity on my part when putting the gear box on tightened the bell housing bolts first and didn't have the torque converter sat right..

The fly wheel could be the problem my revs aren't right? As the crank sensor wouldn't see the flywheel all the time and it was catching on the back of the block also.. Just an idea.

Does anyone on here know of anyone with an auto flywheel for sale?

Thanks for everyone's help so far!

Don't worry bud, I've reported it on your behalf and asked Admin to merge everything.

Thanks very much. And thank you admin!

Currently the car won't rev up like the video and when trying to drive the car it won't drive under any load most of the time struggles and dies.

When I took the car out after it first started again it lacked power but drove without stalling and the revs didn't fluctuate.

I then topped the gearbox oil up as it was running low, because the torque converter had no oil in it.

Just been and had a look then and the torque converter makes a squeeling noise now, so I'm going to change it but does anything think this could be the revving problem?

I've no idea on torque converters

What Graham has said, impossible to give informed advice when you keep starting a new thread with all your ongoing issues.

 

I think that I asked the question in one of your other threads if you had fitted the fly properly, can't remember seeing a reply.

 

Best to get your threads merged and highlight the fix to each of your issues.

 

Your vid smacks of fuel cut off as you are revving whilst stationery or could be the fly issue or sensor issue.

How do I go about getting it all in one topic?

 

Who I do I ask about it though? I've no idea sorry..

 

See Girnet's post above #2

What Graham has said, impossible to give informed advice when you keep starting a new thread with all your ongoing issues.

 

I think that I asked the question in one of your other threads if you had fitted the fly properly, can't remember seeing a reply.

 

Best to get your threads merged and highlight the fix to each of your issues.

 

Your vid smacks of fuel cut off as you are revving whilst stationery or could be the fly issue or sensor issue.

How do I go about getting it all in one topic?

I thought I had answered sorry. Flywheel was never removed so hasn't been altered.. What do you think could cause the fuel cut off? Another sensor? You've been a great help so far so please keep on helping me!

I did have camshaft sensor code in which I changed yesterday and the code has now gone away.. my other posts where for the no spark issue which has also now been resolved..

Well at least that's the code thing cleared up, we're not mind readers mate. Hope you get it sorted.

I know sorry about that, new to these forums so not too sure how they work and what not!

Thanks for your help

I did have camshaft sensor code in which I changed yesterday and the code has now gone away.. my other posts where for the no spark issue which has also now been resolved..

after rebuilding my 350z with a new conrod and piston drove the car and was quite flat and then when i drove again it does this..

anyone have any ideas why? no codes present when scanned with snap on machine.

any help welcome!

IMG_9821.mov

Not quite the 18th but sensor took a week to come as Nissan couldn't get a part number and a few days in between.. Wasn't far behind though.

Thanks for you help!

Just changed the connector then as the cables were all corroded and still same problem.. Attached video of what it's doing..

Thanks

So after rebuilding my engine and having a no spark issues ended up replacing the crank sensor and it fired up straight away! But now I'm getting camshaft 2 sensor problem. P0345 twice and knock sensor signal low?

Took the car for a drive and was very sluggish so topped the auto gearbox level up and went to drive again and won't accelerate hard, feels like it hits the rev limiter and starts to splutter and back fire.. Any ideas?

So ended up replacing the crank sensor and it fired up straight away! But now I'm getting camshaft 2 sensor problem. P0345 twice and knock sensor signal low?

Took the car for a drive and was very sluggish so topped the auto gearbox level up and went to drive again and won't accelerate hard, feels like it hits the rev limiter and starts to splutter and back fire.. Any ideas?

Yeah I've tested resistance though it but going to change it, it has cranking speed on the snap on scanner I used and it seen it so must be working

As per my post #3, did you check the pins on the ECU connection to the loom ?

So today I tested all the signal wires from the ecu pins to the coils and all okay. Continuity wise that is. Going to change the crank and cam sensors next then will be going down the ecu road and it's my last option.. Unless someone has an idea on something I've missed?