Gus-350z

Quick update on this. I now have new PS5's on all 4 corners and have had the alignment done, but the juddering problem remains (albeit much improved compared to before).

Now, on hard right hand turns, it is almost impossible to break traction without driving like a muppet on the roads - the PS5's are amazing tyres. However, on hard left hand turns, although far less than before, I still get a sense of breaking traction/juddering through the rear end and transmission.

The same sensation occurs when the rear left wheel (or both rear wheels) go over bad pot holes for example.

Next steps, my plan is to use CS2000's kit to disable the vdc - to see if it is the system getting upset with stability on the rear left hand wheel (might indicate some sort of sensor issue perhaps?)

More than happy to hear any thoughts/advice on what to look at next.

Gus

At Bedford Autodrome a week or so ago

1 hour ago, ZMANALEX said:

I would be looking at the tyre set up.

Try swooping them around and see if the fault follows

Good idea - thank you. I suspect you're right wrt the tyre set up. I shamefully have quite a mix of tyres on the 4 corners and I suspect the track exposes this.

Out of curiosity, I have attached a drawing of the tyres (all MPSS apart from new one which is PS5) and a score out of /10 for condition (based on tread & sidewall condition). From a tyre/dynamics perspective, how could this explain the juddering on hard lefts?

12 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

Just back off the throttle a bit as you are unsettling the car.

 

You can still carry good speed in and out of the corners when driven aggressively but sensibly and smoothly.

 

Or if you want to get techy just turn the stuff off that affects this.

 

Switching off the EPS is not the answer as it does not completely switch off 100%, but is usually enough for most people.

Thanks for the reply Alex! Although, I would say that the juddering starts to kick in even before I push the car too hard/apply too much throttle too early. My reference for this is that on right hand turns, the car comes out of the corners fine with a similar throttle application.

One idea that just occurred to me is that I have a new MPS4 on the driver side and a relatively older one on the passenger side. Could the difference in grip between these two perhaps be confusing the system?

If I wanted to "turn off the stuff that affects this" how would I go about this? Whether to get techy, or just to test whether or not it is EPS related, this will be useful.
 

Thank you again

Hi All, quick question below and open to ideas as to what the cause could be.

Problem:

• Under hard left hand turns (e.g. either turning off an A road into a side road, braking and then getting hard on the throttle. Or, on left hand hairpins on track) my 350z will judder and it feels as though power is being cut.
• Vibrations come through quite strongly through the transmission, but not the steering or brakes.
• It kicks in just before the car might reach the point of under or oversteer, but not quite.
• It also happens regardless of whether EPS is turned on or turned off. With EPS turned on, I can also notice the effect of it killing the power (in addition to the strange effect above).
• With EPS off, it doesn't trigger the light to come on the dash which normally signifies that EPS is kicking in.
• The effect definitely comes from the rear wheels, and much more noticeably in left hand turns rather than right hand turns.

My instinct is that it's diff, drive shaft, or ABS related - but I'm open to ideas and suggestions if anyone has had this happen before!

Cheers

Welcome!

Spotted in the B&B carpark of Hever Castle and Gardens last weekend!

Mine is the pre-facelift on the right. Came out to find its younger brother (post facelift) in the evening!

Done

Welcome along! I'm also 22 absolutely cracking cars, and you won't regret getting one trust me. Just take your time to look around and get a good one

Welcome along!

Cheeky little bump! :bounce: All speakers and the main amp still up for grabs

Not exactly today-but over the last couple of days: completely overhauled the audio system. Stripped the lot out and then fitted: focal components upfront with passive crossovers, powered by an alpine 300W amp. Then some alpine coaxials in the rear and a pioneer sph da 120 HU. Also sorted some sound deadening and insulation etc and all new wiring. Sounds absolutely incredible! And love the HU, would definitely recommend it.

Then whilst I was at it, also replaced boot, number plate and interior bulbs with leds which really look great and very classy IMO.

Also removed the boot weight so it actually pops up now! And painted and fitted some custom Zed centre caps to go with the black wheels

Don't worry, pics to follow when I'm back on my laptop!

Approved but you might just want to make it clear if those prices include delivery or are for collection only prices.

 

GLWTS.

Oops sorry! Edited to include postage prices

Full Bose sound system for sale

4 x speakers (front and rear)

Speaker amp (the one out of the boot) I will include the bracket (and nuts) if the buyer wants

Bose subwoofer from behind the driver seat

Subwoofer amp

I can take pictures of any individual components if you require but everything is in good working order.

Would rather sell all in one go but can split if people require.

Not really sure how to price them so feel free to make offers, but a starting point would be something like:

Speakers: £6 each or £20 for all 4

Bose sub and sub amp: £20 -----SOLD awaiting payment

Speaker amp: £15

or £40 for everything

Prices above are for collection.

For delivery it will probably depend on what you want but I'd say somewhere around £10 for the lot from a couple of pounds for a speaker.

So for the whole lot let's say £50 delivered.

Please feel free to message me with any questions and thank you for looking!

Now sold, mods please lock

Price reduced! Fancy seeing it gone before I go on holiday (more money for ice cream) so here's a weekend bump

Drive past it every morning as I live just round the corner, anyone on here?

I've started using poorboys natty wax absolutely love it - almost worth it for the smell alone

Okay so I've taken the door card out to have a look what is going on, it's clear that the p/o just wired the headunit straight into the speakers bypassing the amp etc. Could anyone offer any advice as to how I can return this back to stock, specifically what has happened with the wiring WRT the tweeters and pass filter? Ideally if anyone has any pictures lying around of the inside of the door card as standard so I can just compare to see what is going on

Cheers guys

(Here's what it looks like)

Sorry, talking to myself/thinking out loud here... I reckon the previous owner just wired his headunit straight to the speakers instead of via the amp, maybe he had issues with the amp... So am I right in thinking that I shouldn't see any direct speaker cables behind the stereo because the connections (from the standard three Bose plugs) go to the amp and from there to the speakers.. In which case, is it going to be a case of taking the door cards out and reconnecting the original wiring from the amp to the speakers again if I just want to run a new headunit (done properly) through the amp? (Assuming the p/o left the wiring in) cheers for your help guys

Hi Dan, yes still for sale! And it does come with the leads and fascia, basically I've stripped it and everything with it out of the car.

Hope this helps

Hi mate, sorry there's no rear usb input - just the one on the front

Just to add, I've just remembered I left a dark side of the moon CD in the player so the buyer will get a complementary copy of this incredible album also

So is the black iso connector aftermarket? And does it therefore render the fat white female plug useless? It appears that all the connections of the black iso plug (top left in the first picture) are also present on the old white plug (I assume the old white plug is for the old Bose unit)? So when I get a new unit, will I just need the unit specific iso adapter?

I agree it looks like the grey/black/white (old speaker cables) have been chopped and removed from the iso plug and new wires (the fat green and see through ones) in their place