addario

Many thanks for all the replies! I'm getting the whole screen replaced tomorrow so fingers crossed should be good as new!

It's not a bonded screen then?

Gents (and ladies),

So I'm driving today and there are 20 MPH signs for loose gravel and the dude in front of me nails it and bang, there goes the windscreen

I'm super meticulous about the car and I can't bare to live with that chip right bang in the middle of the screen so it has to go somehow... And that's the question for you guys...

Should I get it fixed or replaced? It's only a small chip but it would do my head in if the "fix" was still visible afterwards so I'm leaning towards the replacement.

Would replacing the screen affect the car value negatively? I'm pretty sure AutoGlass will use a third party part so god knows if the fit will be perfect... not to mention the actual competency of the person doing the work... nightmare to think this might end up a botch job

Anyways? What do you guys think? Fix (and surely have a mark where it was) or replace and risk more of a mess?

Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated!

Many thanks chaps! I'm going to start getting a few quotes

Hi there! My front bumper is in some serious need of a re-spray but I have never used a body shop before so just wondering if any of you guys would have recommendations for where to go to get a proper job!?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Many thanks for all that replied, it looks like I'll be able to get some of the parts used from Clark Motorsports!

@veeg33 Yep, sounds like the second option is the way to go! I'll check with them!

@veilside z Where? Can't seem to find it.. the search functionality is not exactly "google" dare I say

Apparently it's pretty much rusted through from the Y pipe down

@350 Russ Sorry but I think it's just my ignorance speaking, I don't mean the manifolds!

I've taken it to the garage because the rust was so bad that the connection between the middle section and the box just split apart at the flange and from just me looking around it did look corroded to oblivion

Hi there!

Just got a call back from the garage and the day I was dreading has finally come, my exhaust is a gonner and I'll need to replace the whole lot, downpipes, middle section and back box My wallet is crying in anticipation!

So... any traders around that could give a quote for a full system to fit my '03 model? I need the full sha-bang, from the downpipes to the tailbox (minus the cats I think, good question... I'm not sure If I need to replace those but I hope not!).

What do you guys suggest? I want to keep spending to a minimum really, currently broke so this is not the best timing for this.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Thanks for your reply! I "currently" don't know what I'm doing, you are quite right!

But I'll be educating myself before I have a stab at it and I think we can agree this is not rocket science, it's doing / undoing a few bolts, making sure a few surfaces are perfectly matched etc...

Anyways... Any chance in getting a few quid by selling the OEM discs?

Hi there guys!

This is going to be my very first attempt at doing anything to a car that's more than feeling up the tank!

The 350 is the 1st proper car I've owned and I've always been mechanically minded but never applied it to my previous vehicles. Now that I decided to take on most of the work with this car upon myself I'll start by replacing the rotors and the pads.

I've got two questions for you guys:

1. I haven't got a socket set at the moment so this will be the time to buy one. Which sizes will I need to replace the rotors? Taking into account taking out the wheel, taking out the calipers etc?

2. Is there any value in my used OEM rotors? They are in pretty good nick to be honest, the car has only done 22K miles from new. The only reason I'm replacing them is... well... I just want to get something new I suppose

Any feedback will be greatly appreciated!

Cheers!!!

Yes! We made it! I can't stress enough how helpful you guys were! Many, many thanks!

I've tried attaching the image but it does not like my phone's browser!

http://i.imgur.com/cJ6xF5c.jpg

Great! That's me off then! I'll post some photos from the Applecross road if I manage to get there!

Thank you guys so much for the help! It's truly appreciated!

Hmmm... The million dollar question is will I make things worse by driving all the way from Aberdeen to Skye with the current fault code showing? Would you guys go for it?

It's an original, unmodified 2003/GT car. It has whatever came on it Sorry for not being exactly knowledgable on this... It's my 1st proper car and I only had it for a few months now.

OK so I've got:

P0159 Rear O2S, Bank 2

P1166 Heated O2 Sensor 2

P1147 Heated O2 Sensor 2

P1167 Heated O2 Sensor 2

Is it ok to drive it?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRe9FJlMChs

Uploaded the blinking madness here... I'm pretty sure I've got the numbers correctly though!

Any ideas of what they mean?

159

166

147

167

159

166

I think there is a third one! I'm still counting!

Got them blinking! Can it show more than one code at a time during the fast blinking? I'm finding it hard to make sense of it... the impression I'm getting is that it's giving me more than just one 3 digit code!

I'm on it! just found the post with the "pedal dance"... let's see if I can manage the timings! If so I'll be back with the code!

Hi guys...

Sorry for the caps and all... just feeling really frustrated!

Tomorrow is my one year wedding aniversary and I was just about to leave for a bit of a road trip from Aberdeen to Skye and hey presto, my yellow engine panel light (malfunction indicator) is now solid ON

Question is: Is it safe to drive the car to Skye and back? Am I risking serious damage?

I don't have a engine code reader nor do I know anybody who does... Garages are mainly closed on Saturday and the Aberdeen Nissan dealership won't help

Any help is appreciated! I'm literally just seating here trying to figure out if I should stay or go!

Even better...

http://www.halfords....ece-lifting-kit

• 2 Tonne Trolley Jack with Short Wheel Base has a lifting range of 14cm to 34cm. Made with a durable welded construction
  
• 2 x 2 Tonne Axle Stands have a combined weight capacity of 2 Tonne
  
• Padded Car Creeper allows for comfort whilst carrying out under car maintenance
  
• Wheel Wrench with 17/19mm socket allows for a wheel change
  
• 2 x Wheel Chocks allow the vehicle to secured in place
  

All of that for £36 and you can even get another 2.5% with Quidco!

@brillomaster Sounds like the way to go... I've done a bit of investigating around the heater idea but it's probably overkill and will add too much hassle with remembering to unplug cables in the morning etc...

Coolant gets warm quickly, that's not the issue here. The problem is that the oil will still be stone cold, and that's what causes the wear.

I would say the oil being cold does not help but surely it's not the main cause of "cold start wear". If I had to place a bet I would say the many parts being smaller than their ideal sizes is the main culprit. Once the engine warms up and everything swells to where it should be wear decreases.

In any case it cannot be worse than a true cold start could it? Surely having the engine pre-warmed even if the oil is still far from optimum temperature is a positive thing to do given my circumstances.

Oh... before I forget...

Cycling doesn't mean you have to ride like Wiggins...

I have to wear suit trousers, shirt and tie as a minimum to work so cycling would be a major pain in the ***