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AdrianL

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Posts posted by AdrianL

  1. Hi guys,

    Unfortunately I'm selling my zed! I've absolutely loved this car for the past 4 years - but I've decided to buy an M3 (don't hate me!), thus need the cash from this sale. I've only listed on here so far but I'll be putting it on eBay soon if there's no interest. Here's the ad, please feel free to ask any questions!

    For Sale - Nissan 350Z 3.5 V6 GT - FSH - 2004 UK Model - Mint condition, tastefully modified, 2 former keepers

    Very sad to be selling my 350Z. Only 2 former keepers. I have owned it for over 4 years. It has been very reliable over the years, only requiring typical maintenance. It has been regularly maintained by myself, with all receipts and date/mileage logged - no expense spared. I am only selling as I require the money for a newer vehicle.

    • Mint condition throughout (just been valeted inside and out)
    • Full Service History (recently had oil, spark plugs and coolant changed), lots of paperwork
    • New 1 year MOT (May 2020)
    • Car is ready to drive and enjoy immediately, nothing needs doing
    • x4 Goodyear Eagle F1 all round (only a few hundred miles on the rears, fronts still got a long life in them)
    • Recent brake pad change (front and rear)
    • I've only ever used Shell V-Power
    • x3 keys (original, spare and master)
    • 90,780 miles (may increase some)

    Standard:

    • Leather heated seats
    • Aircon / Climate Control
    • Cruise Control
    • Power folding wing mirrors
    • Xenon headlights with headlight washers
    • Multi function steering wheel
    • Brembo brake calipers (front & rear)
    • Genuine 350Z floor mats
    • Space saver with lots of tread

    Mods:

    Performance:

    Engine:

    • Uprev Tune (Readout: 294bhp)
    • Full stainless steel exhaust system (borla high flow headers, high flow cats and HKS stainless cat back), relatively quiet when driving sensibly but a lovely roar on wide open throttle
    • Injen Cold Air Intake (with protective rain bag)
    • Kinetix Plenum

    Brakes:

    • Front Discs: DBA 5000 T3 Two Piece Slotted Rotors
    • Rear Discs: DBA 4000 T3 Slotted Rotors
    • EBC Orange Stuff Brake Pads (front and rear), excellent stopping from cold and hot
    • Goodridge Braided Lines (Front & Rear)

    Suspension:

    • Meister R Adjustable Coilovers (with adjustable extensions for rear)
    • Geometry and coilovers professionally set up at Track Torque (York) last year

    Visual

    • Nismo V2 Rear Spoiler
    • Carbon Fibre Front Splitter
    • Carbon Fibre Rear Defuser
    • Gloss Black Badges All Round
    • Clear Side Repeaters
    • Tinted windows
    • Genuine HR LED Rear Lights (makes the car look much more modern)
    • D1 Spec Gear Knob (6 Speed)

    Other:

    • Xtreme Uprated Clutch with Single Mass Lightened Flywheel (very quiet) - fitted 2 years ago (10k miles on it)
    • D1 Spec Throttle Controller
    • Engine Grounding Kit
    • 19” Dotz Alloy Wheels

    Other (only for requested price):

    • Parrot Asteroid Smart Radio (with hands free radio)
    • 1080p dashcam with memory card

    Sold sold sold sold sold

    Please note if you wish to test drive then you will need to bring proof of fully comprehensive insurance.

     

    I’m in no rush to sell, so please don’t make me any offers before seeing the car.

     

    Please feel free to ask any questions you may have! :-)

     

    Cheers,

    Adrian

    Video

    350z video

    Pictures

    image image image image image image image image image image image image

     
     
  2. OK, so with help of a friend we figured out both issues as seen in the videos.

     

    The first video (with the new motor), would have been rectified by simply closing the door!! When the switch is pressed (for the door sensor) the window went straight up. I'm guessing this is some kind of safety feature due to the frameless door. So closing the door seemed to trigger the calibration.

     

    The second video, where I'd attempted to put the old motor back in: it was hitting the trim as the glass had come off the runner. If you shine a torch inside the door from the top you can see where the glass came out from the front of the door. Giving the regulators a little jiggle ensured the glass was back in place.

     

    Glad to have that sorted!

  3. 3 hours ago, ilogikal1 said:

    When I cleaned my window motor, the glass needed adjusting after I put it all back together (it'd obviously moved during), so just slacken off the bolts holding the glass and manually move it until it's in the right place again. 

    Thanks, I'll take a look at that and give it a go soon!

  4. Hi all,

    I attempted to replace the window motor today - I can't say it has been easy, I've found it very fiddly! Anyway I got the new window motor on, but unfortunately when trying to wind it up it wasn't working correctly. At first I tried pressing the window up button and nothing happened. I then pressed down, then up after and it began to raise but only so far:

     

    I couldn't find out what the issue is - so just assumed a bad motor and I swapped it out with the old one again (it's on it's way out, but still kind of working). However now the glass seems to be out of alignment and is hitting the plastic trim?

     

     

    Any ideas as to what is going on? I've had to tape up my window with bin bags for the night as it's dark now - not ideal in this weather :(

     

    Thanks in advance,

    Adrian

  5. Hi mate,

    Apologies, kept meaning to provide an update.

     

    So, I've got the car back. After replacing the slave cylinder, and further bleeding and pedal adjustment it's all sorted. The biting point is very low (as in, as soon as the pedal moves off the floor at all, the clutch begins to engage), but otherwise it's great! Pulls very well! The Xtreme SMF isn't that noisy at all either. On idle it's silent, and there's a bit of noise with low rpm (say 1k-2k), but then you don't hear it further up. Pretty happy with it, and the throttle response is much better too.

    • Like 4
  6. Maybe the clutch fork has come off the pivot ball clip or the bearing has come off the clutch fork. It's easy to knock the clutch fork when re-fitting the gearbox onto the engine.

    Hmm, if this was the case would the clutch fork be loose / movable by hand?

     

    I had the same issue when fitting its on my old car. Ewen had accidentally sent an HR kit instead of DE. He sent the correct one and I returned the HR worked perfectly.

    I hope that's not the case, the garage have just spent the day taking the gearbox off and refitting it :( - do you know how I can confirm whether it is the DE or HR version? I don't believe it said on the box itself.

     

    Edit: I can see I've been charged for the correct version as the HR version is more expensive:

    KNI25525-1A - DE (Mine) - £792

    KNI25688-1A - HR - £1,128

     

    I'm assuming this code will be on the box, so I can check that in the morning.

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