Farmer Brown

Ebc turbo grooved discs can suffer with salt corrosion build up in the grooves. Remove the discs and use a dremel to grind out the build up. This is very common on this type of disc. The build up will increase your wear rate as the corroded surface is harder than the brake pad.

If u do it wrong can you put the disc out of balance?

Have checked caliper pistons and all ok and wear on other side is fairly similar. While the discs arent as bad as i first thought they are still wearing uneven but then so are the pads with the inside pads being done and the outer pads still ok. New pads going on next weekend and discs will need changed later in the year. Reckon it's to do with dirt on the inside of the disc.

Got a new compression rod from zmanalex, fitted it yesterday and problem fixed.

Bush was in ok condition. Ball joint was loose moving but there was no free play in it. Now all noises gone and reckon that rod was affecting handling as steering feels better and car is more settled through corners.

Will only knock over 4000rpm it has protection before that so below that is fine say to get you to a garage that has super so all driving below 4000rpm fine so if you drive over this possible damage so not all 30000mile will be bad if that helps put you mind at ease abit

you've obviously never sat in a car beside me then!

well ill just put it down to being one of lifes learning experiences. i had this thing in my head that the engine management system would deal with the normal petrol but yeah what some of the posters say is right, what's done is done, had a good listen to it today and it seems fine so am just going to assume it is unless something goes wrong. would still like to take it to a rolling road tho as never done that with it before.

I just can't understand why people would think 95 Ron is OK when it clearly states 98 Ron only.

yes point taken! but do you know if the car showed any symptoms? oil usage? blue smoke? noise?

I was at Abbey today and Tony showed me a piston from a 350 (sorry don't remember the year) that had been run almost exclusively on 95 Ron unleaded fuel, please don't do it guys, it's going to hurt your engine AND your wallet eventually...................

 

~edited to make clear this was use of 95 Ron almost exclusively

 

that doesn't look very nice. did the car show any symptoms? my one seems to be running fine and have never noticed any knocking noises

I would check you caliper pistons are all moving. Sounds to me like all the load is being taken on the inner face. I see lots of the discs and never seen your problem before.

yeah maybe, i always try to clean the pistons up and lube them a bit when i change the pads, they have never seemed too bad to push back in. to be honest i havent checked the other disc yet so perhaps that has been the problem

i didnt check the run out but i have changed many a brake disc before and never had to bother, combination of showing some faith in EBC and not being arsed to buy a run out meter.

I have a 54 plate 276BHP UK GT Zed. It has done 54,000 miles and i have owned it for about 6-7 years and done 30,000+ in it.

 

Until i found these forums i tended to run it on standard 95 ron petrol, not through tightness but i just assumed as that it wasn't a turbo super unleaded wasn't such a big deal.

Did the great big sticker saying '98RON ONLY' by the fuel cap not give you a hint?!

 

Regardless, I wouldn't fret over anything now, just stick with 98 from now on and whatever will be, will be. Nothing you can do about it either way, so no point in worrying

yeah i probably should have but when it seemed to be running ok i thought it would be fine . if i was purposefully going for a hard drive i would put super in it.

I have a 54 plate 276BHP UK GT Zed. It has done 54,000 miles and i have owned it for about 6-7 years and done 30,000+ in it.

Until i found these forums i tended to run it on standard 95 ron petrol, not through tightness but i just assumed as that it wasn't a turbo super unleaded wasn't such a big deal. :blush:

However i have now seem posts going on about engine knock caused by 95 ron petrol damaging engines and it is super all the time for it now. Must say i have never noticed any knock now or before when i used 95ron and even when i do drive it hard i always tend to warm it up before a run and let it cool itself properly after.

Car seemed to run ok on 95 ron just not as smooth as super and didnt have as much power. Car seems to be running fine now, has never needed any oil its whole life (i check it every week) water has always been fine and there has never been any sign of contamination of water and the oil pressure always seems to be ok. Car has been serviced by nissan once a year since new and all they have said about engine is that it is pretty good.

So if everything seems alright is the engine alright or is there damage that i might not know about?? The car seems ok for power, 50-70 in 4th today just under 4 sec and in 3rd about 2.8ish and will comfortably go well up into 140-150+ territory (gave it a run to try this last weekend), i have put it on the limiter a few times but not for a while. On an old airstrip of course.

Was thinking of taking it to the local rolling road (this weekend if poss) to see if it still had all its horses and thought if it did then it must be ok. It is running a scorpion exhaust and pipercross panel filter so anyone have any idea of what power it should do if all is well?

Had my Z for about 6 years.

Am quite hard on brakes and so do them myself to avoid being ripped off by garage.

Use EBC yellow stuff pads cos i like the feel and resistance to fade compared to the standards and go through a full set once a year (every 5,000 miles).

Standard front brake discs were changed last year as were getting a bit thin, maybe should have changed them earlier , and put some EBC turbo grooved discs on the front which seemed even more resistant to fade and quite liked them.

Have just discovered after looking under car (at phecked compression arm) that the discs have worn to the extent that the grooves on the inside of the discs have virtually gone!!

The brakes have done maybe 5,000 miles so would expect the pads to be done but not the discs, the original discs did about 48,000 miles so bit annoyed

Has anyone found that EBC discs are soft or is it just the fact that grooved discs wear like this??

Put plain EBC discs on the back about 2 months ago, didn't think grooves were necessary, hope they are not going to wear like the fronts.

More than likely it will be the compression rod bushing or the compression rod ball joint.

 

All parts are in stock and good to go same/next day.

 

Just drop me a PM if I can help you further with your diagnoses.

 

Alex.

Just been under the car again and it is definitely the left side compression arm that's the problem. The bush where it mounts onto the front cross bar is torn. Had noticed that the rubber looked a bit new and black before but when i couldn't get it to move i thought it was ok.

Do you do an exchange on the compression arm ( you send a new one and i send you my old one back) or do you sell new compression arms?

It's notoriously difficult to diagnose banana bar failure, but if the noise disappears when you apply the brakes and maintain speed at low speed over rough tarmac then it's 90% certain banana bar failure ... can you tell which side it's coming from ?

i reckon it is on the left side, worked this out by driving left hand wheels over rough stuff with right on smooth stuff.

Thanks for quick answers.

By drop link do you mean upper link or transverse link? I have a workshop manual but cant seem to find reference to a drop link.

Hi

I have a 54 plate 350z GT UK car with 54,000 miles on it.

I have been suffering from an annoying clunking/rattling noise from the front of the car for the last couple of months.

Noise appears when i going up to about 30-40mph over rough surfaces. It goes away after that. You would swear that something is rattling of the floor of the car. Steering angle doesn't seem to affect it but if you put the brakes lightly on and keep up the power so you don't slow down the noise does get quieter.

I have been under the car multiple times and cant find any loose bushes or ball joints and cant find movement on the front wheels. It is driving me mental!!!

I have noticed that when the car is jacked up and you wobble the steering wheel left and right that there is a slight noise coming from the right hand end of the steering rack but it doesn't sound like the noise that is annoying me. I have also noticed that the inside of the front left tyre is slightly more worn than the outside.

I have seen the thread about the banana bar but not sure if my problem is the same.

Any help/advice greatfully received!!