karlh

It's possible the modification was done to provide extra power (more than 15 A) to the power socket.

I have a 2005 350Z Enthusiast (USA non Rev Up DE).  According to my US Service Manual, the clutch disk size for 2005 models depends on the transmission.  The CD008 transmission uses a 250mm disk, while the CD009 uses a 240mm disk.

Glad everything works.  I believe key registrations are contained in the ECU, not the BCM, and that the BCM is just a pass-through.  The Service Manual isn't very clear on the subject, but it does say re-registration is required after an ECU change, but says nothing about a BCM change.

As the title says, the Condensed view of Unread Content looks just like the Expanded view.  It could be my computer, but I've seen the problem on two different machines with two different browsers.

What software are you using?

P1610, Lock Mode, is a bit tricky.  It means you tried to start the car 5 or more consecutive times with either a bad key or a malfunctioning BCM or ECU.  Once the problem is corrected, you need to perform the following procedure to escape from the lock mode:

1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Turn ignition switch ON with a registered key.  (Do not start the engine.)  Wait 5 seconds.
3. Return the key OFF.  Wait 5 seconds.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice (total of three cycles).
5. Start the engine.

This procedure comes from the US Service Manual, Body, Lock and Security System section.

A bad BCM could cause your NATS problem, but pin 16 on the OBD connector goes straight to the battery through the fuse.

IPDM fuse 89 feeds power to the OBD port pin 8 through the ignition switch.  This is Nissan-unique and not part of the OBD standard.  Direct battery power goes to pin 16 (OBD standard) through fuse 34 on the relay box located just in front of the battery.

A standard 2.2 Ohm resistor with a 10% tolerance would have 4 color bands - red (2), red (2), gold (0.1 multiplier), and silver (10% tolerance).

1 hour ago, fijifixit said:

It flashes twice, then pauses for about 2 seconds, then solid light for about 2 seconds.

 

Then light goes off, and restarts the same blinking again.

That's the blinking pattern for the driver's airbag.  Here in the USA all our Zs have 2-stage front airbags with a yellow connector and an orange connector.  In your original post you mentioned the yellow connector.  Did you miss the orange one?

When you use the key on-off procedure to place the system in the diagnosis mode, what is the flash pattern (number and length of flashes)?

Are you using a UK or USA service manual?

For what it's worth, that code is not listed in the USA Service Manuals.  Did you get the code with a scan tool or by doing the pedal dance?

Great.  Glad I could help.

I don't believe the pre-tensioner connector is under the seat.  It connects directly to the seat belt retractor.  I've attached 2 extracts from my service manual.  Key areas are outlined in red.  The Seat Belt Pre-Tensioner Connector.pdf file shows how the body harness connects to the retractor and, on the second page, shows the connector in more detail.  The SRS Schematics.pdf file, fourth page, shows that the connectors are yellow with 2 pins each.

Seat Belt Pre-Tensioner Connector.pdf SRS Schematics.pdf

1 minute ago, .:Bullen:. said:

Completely removed factory belts, bases, seatbelts etc no trace of original left just the plugs on the loom that they would have plugged into remain 

That's a situation I've never encountered before. A resistor will probably be necessary.  After a little searching online I found a couple of YouTube videos relating to pre-tensioner resistance (links below).  The consensus is 2 to 3 ohms, just like you fitted for your seats.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2oM5mvEytk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2iqMqdbb5U

6 minutes ago, .:Bullen:. said:

I don’t run seat belts I’ve got harnesses so could that be why ? Do I need to put resistors in them too ? 

When you say you don't run them, do you mean you simply don't fasten them, or have you completely removed the factory seat belts?

A long flash (3 seconds on) followed by 3 short (1/2 second) flashes in the diagnosis mode indicates a problem with the left hand seat belt pre-tensioner (per my USA service manual).

The path from the sensor to the gauge is a bit complicated.  The sensor is wired to the ECU.  The ECU sends the temperature in a digital word over the CAN bus to the Unified Meter and A/C Amp, the box behind the temperature and fan controls.  The Unified Meter and A/C Amp then sends its own signal to the instrument cluster over a dedicated digital bus.  The microprocessor in the instrument cluster massages this signal and outputs a voltage to the gauge.  Like the fuel gauge, the coolant temperature gauge is damped.  Small changes up or down won't show up on the needle.

In my 2005 the needle normally reads just below half way.  Given the fact that your ECU reading looks good, the problem could be anywhere from the ECU to the gauge.  The Service Manual I have for my car says the needle should point in the cold region for temperatures of approximately 50C, in the middle for temperatures between 70C and 105C, and in the hot region for temperatures of approximately 130C.  I'm assuming the hot region is the red zone at the top of the gauge, but the manual doesn't define cold or middle.  However, the manual does include a signal validity check.  The Nissan Consult diagnostic tool can read the temperature provide from the ECU to the Unified Meter and A/C Amp and the temperature from the Unified Meter and A/C Amp to the instrument cluster.  If the temperatures agree, the manual says to perform an ECU self-diagnosis, which simply means check for current and pending fault codes.  If the temperatures don't agree, the manual says to replace the Unified Meter and A/C Amp.

While my manual is for US spec cars, is suspect your car functions in the same manner.  Hope this helps.

In the US it's the same sensor.

The most frequent cause is a loose connector under one of the seats.

Simply clearing the codes won't eliminate the warning light.  While your car may be different, for USA cars the Service Manuals are available on-line.  I recommend you download the srs.pdf section from

https://nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-350z-factory-service-manuals.html.

It will describe how to properly repair the system and clear the light.

On my 2005 USA 350Z, with ABS and traction control, there are 4 wheel speed sensors.  The front wheel sensors are located at the wheel hubs, while the rear wheel sensors are located in the differential housing.  The ABS control unit takes these inputs and provides vehicle speed to the Unified Meter and A/C Amp, the box behind the air conditioning controls, over the CAN bus.  The Unified Meter and A/C Amp changes this to an 8-pulse signal and sends it over a dedicated wire to the instrument cluster.  A faulty wheel speed sensor would certainly give you and ABS light.  If you don't have that light, the fault is probably somewhere else.

I don't have the schematics for UK cars, but for USA cars the starter is wired directly to the battery, not trough the thermal link.

The white wire with the red stripe is ground (earth in the Queen's english).  Interrupting this lead will take the yaw rate sensor out of the loop.  I recommend using this wire instead of the 12v wire to avoid any possible electrical glitches.