Lanky

You can get a knocking sound from the Strut mounting bush (where the fork meets the Transverse link) - I had mine changed as it even was noticed on the MOT, only an advisory - and you could see the crease in the joint. Still didn't have any excess play but the small line in the rubber bush was all we had to go on. Changed it out and problem went away.

A53 is cracking!!

I picked up a mate and took up that way into Buxton a couple of weeks later in mine on the August Bank holiday!

Didn't know there was a fellow Z owner on here in swad either!

Here was my pic from my day - do you know the spot on Snakes Pass?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yJ3s6vgNRxd9BSL22

I think you're leading down the "price doesn't guarantee quality" line now - and I don't think anyone has actually claimed there's a correlation there.

I might go and make some solid discs of metal and I'll sell you a full set for £50. Would you buy them?

I don't know how you took that as condescending but fair enough, not what I meant to portray. 

I'm not vouching my guarantee  for the DBAs against stock or even against cheap discs. Only adding here there's a wealth of choices and arguing against your point that there's no discernible difference between the discs - There will be. You didn't comment about the length of service the discs could manage? What if the dba lasts twice as long in normal use. That makes them at least the same value besides anything else.

Some things are worth paying extra for, some aren't granted. As it goes with these things on cars as far as advi e for the OP, I stand by my point. You never know whether they're certain to be OK until something happens. I can let a failure fly on a washer pump or window motor but not my brakes 5 years down the line or 40k miles whichever way you look at it. 

A raft of choices, I'd strongly suggest to the OP go for the best you can afford without overdoing yourself. 

Trust me on this - mintex pads on old brembo discs are not safe after just even one long braking stretch. Faded like hell. They still stopped but if I'd needed it shortly I'd not have made it stop in time. Just a word of experience. 

Ref to your point:- "here is a lot more variation in the materials and techniques used to make tyres than to make a solid disc of metal." - Actually no, there's a lot more alloys of steel than kinds of tyre setup in the world. That's just steel, let alone Aluminium and the rest. Even considering tyres are also made up of nylon beads, steel wire banding, anti noise membranes and such.

I'd be honest here if you know metallurgy you should know about heat treatment at the very least. Let alone the differences in source material compounds.

- Harder metal so lasts longer against same pads

- Tougher so less chance of it cracking

- treated so lower rate of oxidation, again lasting longer

- machined to better tolerances and quality checked more so you can be sure they're the same time and time again.

All in all, if the opinion is they're initially just all identical cuts from the same piece of cheese, it couldn't be furthre from the truth I'm afraid.

Generally all depends what you wanna do with your discs. I spent what more on mine recently than I've ever done for a set on a car, mostly cause of the car it is. I still wouldn't use them if tomorrow I was drafted in to drive it in even a 20-lap race.

I'm only piping up here because there's 3 things I avoid saving extra on for my cars - brakes, tyres and steering. All you've got in the way of hope of avoiding the unthinkables.

Don't know if it's adding value to the topic, but a set of DBA T2 600S discs all-round and Hawk HPS pads were just obtained for a shy under £600. If you're looking for aftermarket in the same price range as the original Brembo offer on ECP.

As for the reference to it just being a lump of metal you're buying - you'd be surprised how much goes into the various stages of making "good" discs. If you want them to last and also depend on them, there's only a few brands you can really depend on.

Got the goodyears on mine (after Vredestein Sessanta 2, mind). Very very impressed with both dry and wet response and outright cornering force. I'd say they deserve a 9/10 at least.

I was also there this weekend, noticed P100 SPA, and a french registered DE engine.

Mine was there saturday. Slave cylinder failed queuing off to get out after the first lap. Great fun, but after that for the whole weekend til we came back Monday it was passenger rides in my mate's M3. :-(

jjdugen were you in the black HR with the exhaust mod, splitters and private plate?

It did our nuts in, so knackered after the drive and they were booming it out regardless! They seemed only a couple of tents out os it really reverberated in my head!

We were jusdt the other side of that line of trees/hedgerow in the left region of where the picture looks.

The HR I saw on the ferry was a nismo spoiler more than likely, 2 lads also on their way but they were obviously at a different campsite. Personalised plate I think.

That was you then, I was in yellow must have spotted it wrong!!

Those pillocks with the Dutch/french whatever it was happy hardcore all night every night were fun.....

I didn't take mine and I didn't see that, but saw a gunmetal with a big wing on the ferry going to Dunkirk on thursday, and also saw a HR gunmetal in the yellow campsite where I was, was this you?

Plenty of new ones for sale all the time...

F-types a-plenty if Sir prefers something a little more "Spritely" haha....

Excellent choice of car Sire. Although I can't help noticing it might be time you renewed it to a 16MY car....

.... thats just showing off lol

Yeah if only it was mine for more than the holiday weekend! Definitely a driveway record though.

Why choose between comfort and economy and looks and power...?

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Question is....whose car did they use!?!?!

I love the "395 *POINT* 6" B.H.P....

I suggest the first person in cones off spaces for others haha

Not a bad idea, but I brought mine in at 06:25 this morning to get parked and the front quarter of the car park was choca...

No probs - not that it counts on 350s now...it means the warranty is still valid, where it hasn't run out on time/mileage.

I'm JLR too but predominantly Gaydon!

 

I need a P2 service doing, do any of these garages give you a stamp too?

EU Laws now mate, any garage doing the work using the correct parts and performing to the correct process can give you an honest stamp.

Poor showing this morning...I tried parking down there at 06:40 after picking someone up...forgot how mad the parking is these days and the carpark was already half full..!

 

Only a White 370 down in that corner.

 

I'm in the daily today (mk4 golf) parked right behind Dan's 370z. Don't like scraping ice of the Z!

Hah, unfortunately I had no choice today!!

Poor showing this morning...I tried parking down there at 06:40 after picking someone up...forgot how mad the parking is these days and the carpark was already half full..!

Only a White 370 down in that corner.

You can check if it's the drop links by taking them off and seeing if the clunk persists on uneven ground

 

You can check if its banana bar by driving over bumps maintaining a slow speed with brakes applied (left foot) ... the clunk will disappear

 

Steering clunk ? ... I don't know

 

Other than that, my guess is B A N A N A B A R

I've got something similar to the OP, not as severe yet. Just got it back home after changing other things over that also needed doing with the knock still there. Mate says it's the drop links but I pryed and jiggled with no play. Will be trying this advice, drive with them off and at least it takes one possibility out even if it doesn't answer.

So many links and joints on a double wishbone setup!!!!

Best of luck....Im having some superpros fitted to the transverse links which should hopefully be done by now....they seem the way forward!! Cheaper than new arms as well!

I am surprised how many people get them considering the price, they must really be that good.

I've just been through this rigmarole myself lurch, the advice above is sound. You'd be surprised about getting underneath how simple it is to get to actually, but a spare hand will help in getting the suspension cross member out to be able to remove the BA.

Might have trouble getting the nut off the thread of the ball joint...be careful there. A ball joint separator of the wedge or clamp type will help but watch that ball joint boo. Costly mistake to tear!