dominicwellsuk

Had exactly this a few weeks ago and was worried it was more. If it's a rattle which sounds more like a clanging when you switch the ignition off with the clutch engaged, then it may be the same. The clutch release bearing was apparently destroyed and the clutch extremely worn. This had in turn damaged the dual mass flywheel which was causing the knocking.

From what I've heard though the gearbox has it's fair share of problems so I hope for you it's not that :-)

I work for Nissan, and can confirm it is an entirely Nissan designed, developed and manufactured engine. Because of the Renault alliance, they use it in a few of their larger cars, just as we use their diesels for some of our smaller cars, but the VQ35 in all it's guises is in absolutely no way a Renault engine. I'm just amazed how a few words from Jeremy Clarkson seems to overrule what used to be a very well known fact.

one answer

 

its a renault

 

350 zeds run renault engines

 

Wrong mate... 100% nissan engine - stop listening to the rubbish they say on top gear...

Fully agree! Just had a rant on another thread about this! Do your research before quoting the nation's biggest buffoon.

This man really boils my pi**. A friend emailed me this review and another on the 350Z by the same idiot Clarkson and they so clearly display his lack of interest in actually reviewing a car properly, I was thumping on my desk.

What really annoys me is the fact that he calls the VQ35 a French engine! Does no one take issue with this? It's been voted in the top 10 engines in the world over the last 8 years except the last 2, and is Nissan designed!

I just want to punch the man.

The 1200 quid repair work is only an estimate awaiting final diagnosis, but I've potentially a main shaft bearing needing replacing, new clutch needed, new steering rack, and new rear drop link. These are all pretty normal things to need replacing at some point, (except maybe the main shaft bearing), but if they all come at once, it all adds up. 1200 may even be a vast underestimate. Fingers crossed.

I took out a third party warranty for 340 pounds (why is my pound sign key not working?!?! ) and it looks like they are not going to pay out for any of this, despite apparently covering the steering rack and gearbox according to their policy. Squirming gits.

Insurance has been mentioned already but you asked about mods to a standard Zed. Worth keeping in mind that for a standard Zed I was quoted 650 pounds, but with only a rr spoiler, air filter and cat back exhaust, the absolute best I could find was 1,100. If you're looking for cheaper zed motoring, I would recommend you keep her as she was when she rolled off the line in Tochigi.

My Zed costs me about £70 a week in fuel, at about 27p per mile. 04 reg so lower tax band, but for god's sake keep a stash for repairs. I'm looking at an unplanned for repair bill of £1200 minimum this week. NOt covered under 3rd party warranty.

Beware parts costs as well. An example is the Front ARB Drop Link. £9 on a Micra, £85 on a 350. Tyres will set you back minimum £120 each, and you can go through them quite quickly.

As long as you're prepared, it's worth every penny though.

Despite the experiences of other guys on the forum, it could be anything, so unless you can self diagnose it, I'd get it into a decent garage to be sure.

Mine turned out to be integral to the steering rack, despite the assumption it was one of the common things like drop link, TRE or banana bar.

I guess you can benefit from the forum in terms of understanding where to look first, but it's always worth getting a professional opinion to avoid chasing the ruddy thing for weeks and letting it get worse.

You should be able to fit a new one yourself with no problem, assuming it has come out as it's dried out or warped, rather than the screen shifting. You'll just need to find some sort of roller tool to run over it and press it into the gap. That's all that is done in the factory.

dominicwellsuk - I'm in North Shields - Gun Metal GT (Nismo spoiler). Let me know if anything going on round the NE. Cheers.

I believe the OEM Fr Bmpr is about 3.6kg. Dimensions not sure, but it won't cost you anything significantly more to guess a little over for safety.

Someone say something if this is wrong!

Mine too. Just had the renewal through for 245 quid for my 04 plate and my boss has had to stump up 450 for his 57. Anyone know why the difference?

It was Benfield on Felling Bypass, Gateshead.

I've never used them for anything before but they were the only dealer that could look at it in such a short time. Definitely the worst in the area. Boooo

Thanks guys. Arranged to pop down to Falcon next weekend. Let's hope she survives that long.

Recently I've come across a couple of problems on my 04 GT, which have steadily got worse and worse to the point I am concerned for the long term health of the car if I drive much more. My issues are two fold...

1. A VERY loud knocking from the RHF, manifesting itself on rough roads, but not necessarily potholes. I can induce a knocking by turning the wheel left and right with the engine off, so my initial thought was a track rod end worn. I also get a very loose steering feel and floaty steering at speed. Not sure if this would come from a TRE also. So, from my own diagnosis... Inconclusive.

2. A grinding from the clutch/gearbox under at idle and also normal running. Gets drowned out by the exhaust and road noise at higher speeds but I think it's still there. Applying sudden load to the engine generates a knocking, and the knocking can be heard periodically whilst idling. Not a very nice feel through the pedal also... Also inconclusive.

So, I took it to a mate who dabbles occasionally and he reckoned the RHF knocking was the track rod end, took it to a local garage who looked at it on a 4-poster for free and reckoned it was a drop link, but to be sure I booked it into a dealer for diagnosis at £76, so they could look at the gearbox/clutch knocking as well.

Later that day, the dealer rang to explain that despite me explaining the symptons, (not by test drive yet), they had found no fault on the car, and he put everything down to a set of Vredesteins on the front, rather than the OEM Bridgestones. I told him he was an oaf and asked to drive the workshop manager round for a bit later that day. When face to face, he then had the audacity to say that they don't really drive many 350s so couldn't be expected to recognise something wrong.

Back at the garage, again, the sound was obvious, and it was agreed there was an issue, but of course they had no idea what it was, nor it seems had they even been under the car whilst it was idling to even check for something loose, which would be a nice easy explanation to potentially both problems.

Agreed to book it in again for no charge, including driving the workshop monkey around for a bit so he could apprecite the concern, under the proviso that if after that, no cause was identified, the £76 would be refunded. This took some battling with a hag on reception, but we got there in the end.

I tell you this partly to pass on a tale of awful, awful technical knowledge, and complete lack of effort on the part of a main dealer, but also in the vain hope that someone may have a pointer as to what may be the issue. If the dealer comes to me with nothing, then I'll have it into another independent place, (any suggestions near Newcastle?).

I'm looking forward to putting this to bed as the car is only sounding worse and worse, and my encounters with the dealer are robbing me of my faith in humanity.

Is help out there???

Pretty much all the time there is a horrible rattle or clanging coming from the underfloor. Sounds like something is very loose but I've had it up on a 4 poster and no joy in spotting it.

Sounds it's worst when the enginer comes under sudden load, i.e. low revs, high gear sharp pulling away, and i can also induce it by dropping the clutch very quickly in first. Sometimes it lingers like something is hanging loose, flapping and clanging away.

Quite a worrying noise. Anyone got any ideas?