I recently fitted a new headunit and was aware of a low volume output issue that seems to affect most aftermarket headunits due to the Bose setup in the Z.

I managed to figure out busters instructions for fixing this and have been running this setup in my car for a couple of week now with no issues at all, other have been running this for much much longer. Busters instructions aren't too good however and several members have been calling for a 'proper' guide, so here we go .

I will say again, I did NOT figure this method out, the credit for this goes to Buster and his original topic viewable below, I am just writing up a guide for his method. I have made one small amendment however by adding in an extra connector which saves you hacking into your new headunits harness.

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/58947-reduced-sound-out-put-after-replacing-oe-bose/

Parts & Tools Required

1x Autoleads PC2-76-4 Nissan 350Z 2003 - 2006 Car Stereo ISO Harness Adaptor Lead £3.85

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261373114757

1 x Nissan 350z Bose Steering control interface - (29-674) £34.99

https://incartec.co.uk/Pages/Product.aspx?P=2975

Soldering Iron & Solder

Heat shrink in 2.4mm, 3.2mm and 4.8mm widths with 3:1 shrink ratio

Scissors

Wire Strippers

Multimeter (Optional but recommended)

Hack 'n' Slash

OK, firstly, grab hold of your Autoleads PC2-76-4 adaptor cable. This is the type of cable used on cars that don't have the bose system, but for our use, we will just be stealing the brown speaker connector.

All we need on this is the brown connector and its associated leads. If you look at the writing on the side of them, you will notice each one is printed with a speaker such as "Left Front Pos" and "Left Front Neg". Take your scissors and cut this off. Discard the other piece, just keep this bit.

http://i.dankdronedownloader.com/uploads/2020-08/5MZDMb.jpeg

Next, grab the InCarTec 29-674 lead and your scissors and cut off the RCA connectors below the gland as shown here.

Preparation

OK, enough cutting, now into something constructive. Strip the cable ends you have just cut on the InCarTec 29-674 cable, you will see a outside wire, some more insulation and an inside wire. Separate these so that all of the outside wires point off at 90 degrees, then strip the innards too.

Now, get your 2.4mm heatshrink and cut 8 lengths of 1 cm, slide them over the wires on the brown connector you cut from the Autoleads PC2-76-4 connector as shown below.

Next, grab the 3.2 and 4.8mm heatshrink, cut these into 4 lots 1cm and 2cm lengths respectively and slide these over the wires on the InCarTec 29-674 cable so one fits just inside the other as shown.

You should now be able to see that the wire colours between the two harnesses actually match! Purple is Right Rear, Grey is Right Front, White is Left Front and Green is Left Rear.

Constructing the Cable

OK, so you now need to connect the first of the 8 leads together. Lets begin with purple. The purple lead with no stripe is the Positive connection for the speaker, you need to twist this together with the centre purple cable on the InCarTec 29-674 cable as shown in the bottom of this cable. Then twist the one with the black stripe to the wire that was wrapped around the outside of this purple cable, shown at the top here. Solder these together trying to use as little as you

need, then use scissors to cut off the extra bits.

When you have soldered these, we now need to insulate the positive and negative connections, so, slide the 2.4mm heatshrink up from the brown connector end over the positive connection you just soldered, heat this up and ensure it covers the joint.

Next, slide down the 3.2mm heatshrink over the negative end as much as possible, this may be tight, but this bit isn't 100% essential.

Lastly, slide over the larger 4.8mm bit to cover the entire lot up, you have now insulated the Pos from the Neg, and secured the whole lot together.

Its a simple case of repeating this fro the other 3 wire colours so your cable looks like the below.

Check Your Work!!!

Your cable is now electrically connected, but id HEAVILLY advise you to check you have connected things properly. This is where your multimeter comes in, set this to continuity. If you grab the brown connector, you should see 8 pins at the end. Follow these back and you can easily tell which cable connects to which pin.

The image below shows the two white connectors, on top of my finger you can see the pairs of cable (White & Black, Grey & Black, Green & Black, Purple & Black going left to right). These colours should match from end to end.

I would advise you con connect your multimeter between these ends and check continuity between them. i.e, stick one end in the purple leads pin on the brown connector end, then touch the other end on the purple cable pin on the white connector, it should bleep to indicate there is a connection between the two ends. Then move to the black cable on the white connector, and the purple and black striped cable on the other end. Its hard to explain, but its simple with the cable infront of you!

Completed Cable

So, now your connections are completed, il just run through what goes where when you come to connect this up in your car.

And here is the rear of the Bose headunit

The Red circled cable is for the steering wheel controls. This plugs into the connector in the bottom left of the Bose photo.

The two Green circles cables plug into the other two white connectors in the back of the Bose unit. These are TOTALLY different sizes, so you physically cannot plug these in wrong!

The two Blue circled plugs connect to the corresponding plugs on your headunits harness adaptor, this will usually be a big black connector as shown below. You need to take care here as the brown block has all 8 pins, but the black one only has 5. This matches the pin count in the black block connector too (5 on the top and 8 on the bottom)

That's it, your leads are now all connected and if you connect your headunit (and remember to connect the earth loop eyelet on the InCarTec connector!!!) you should have all functions and a nice loud volume!

Any questions, ask away!

Whilst my Zed is long gone, replaced with a more suitable baby-carrying machine - a forum member asked me if I still had the BCM repair guide for fixing the interior dome light auto-dim feature.

I cannot seem to attach files any longer, Low-res pdf available here:

http://www.dmcauley...._2004_lores.pdf

Higher res pdf (though the lowres is probably adequate) here:

http://www.dmcauley....50z_UK_2004.pdf

Hope this helps - what happened to all the old posts?

John

I did clean the paint from any parts of the chassis that made contact.  Cant say ive noticed a different on the volt meter either at ignition or with engine running.  Not driven it yet so cant comment on idle, smoothness or increased electrical efficiency, to bright for headlights yet which has been reported as improving from other threads and topics i read.  

First pic, overall finished showing most the connection.

First - There is a threaded hole just behind the washer fluid cap. This was a bit of a pain due to location but it eventually went in.  From here this cable routes to the engine block.

Second - The first cable from threaded hole into engine block & a second cable from engine block to lower earth point on block.

Third - You can see the cable going to the lower earthing point from the block above.  The third cable goes from the upper earthing point, not the top one but the one in the middle of this pic to the bottom threaded hole next to the intake.

Fourth - The cable in the bottom threaded hole from the middle earthing point from previous picture.  Also from the previous pic the Top earth point cable goes to a bolt under the air con tap, this can be seen better in the next pic.

Fifth - Pic showing cable from top earth point to bolt by air con cap.  There is then a cable from this to the top threaded hole in previous pic.

Sixth - I put two extra from the current battery earth point to battery, there is also a cable running from the chassis connector to the top threaded hole in pic 5, this ran under the wiring loom foam block.

If I would of known it was this easy I'd of done it ages ago. .

So just a little runt though for everyone :-)

This is what you have to start with. .

Pull the little cover back to show little screw, when you remove this screw you'll be about to move the unit around.

Then there is a blanking plate underneath the unit also pull this to remove it

Pull out the wires to show the connector blocks (mine were covered in foam)

Remove the foam and disconnect the unit. . .

I just tucked the other connector blocks back into the space underneath.

Then the good bit, get the floor plate and pull it up, mine was just held down with sticky pads but did need a half decent tug. . .

There will be another hole in the main floor of the compartment take blanking that you first removed fun under the holder and it will fit in this hole too. . .

You then have finished with a bigger and more useful compartment to use. .

This is what you should be left with

Please let me know if you found this little guide useful :-)

Thanks everyone

Check the vehicle handbook before using jump leads. All include general advice on jump starting but some include model specific procedures. If this is the case you must follow the manufacturer's procedure rather than the steps described below.

Jump starting a vehicle can be a safe procedure however and damage can be avoided if a few simple rules are followed:

Safety rules

Keep metal objects away from the top of the battery – rings, watch straps, hand tools, clips or stray wires just brushing a battery post can cause a massive spark, possibly exploding the battery and releasing the acid.

Don't attempt to jump-start a battery that is leaking or looks damaged – an explosion could result.

Avoid smoking or naked flames – batteries give off flammable gases and an explosion could result.

Keep hands well away and avoid loose fitting clothing, particularly scarves or neckties – with the engine running it's easy to get caught-up and seriously injured on moving parts like pulleys or belts.

Jump leads must be in good condition – damaged conductors or clamps can result in overheating and the possibility of fire.

Step by step

Before connecting any leads make sure the vehicles are the same voltage and that they're parked with their handbrakes on and ignition off. The vehicles must not touch as this can cause sparks or an explosion.

Use the red jump lead to connect the positive terminal of the donor vehicle's good battery to the positive terminal of the flat battery.

Then use the black lead to connect the negative terminal of the good battery to a suitable earthing point on the engine or chassis of the other vehicle. This earthing point must be away from the battery and fuel system.

With both leads connected wait three minutes for the voltages to equalise before starting either engine.

Start the engine of the donor car and allow it to run for a minute then, with it still running, start the engine of the other car and leave both running at a fast idle for ten minutes. Do not remove the jump leads while the engines are running as this can cause serious damage to the electronics on either car.

If the jump leads get hot, then avoid a possible fire by switching off both engines and allowing the leads to cool.

Turn off the ignition on both cars and then disconnect the leads carefully in the reverse order to the way that they were connected. Be careful not to touch the clips against each other or against the car bodywork.

Start the car that had the dead battery using its own battery power. If it won't start this could indicate a more serious problem with the charging/ignition system that will need investigating by a professional.

Software Needed

You will need to purchase whichever Nissan Datascan version matches your car, this software is amazing and is similar to what the Nissan Consult II offers, it can read modules normal OBD readers cannot as it was coded to replicate Consult II features.

Nissan Datascan II (For DE Cars) £29.50 - https://nisscan.com/product/nds-ii-windows-pc/?v=7885444af42e

Nissan Datascan III (For HR and Rev-Up Cars) £36.00 - https://nisscan.com/product/nds-iii-windows-pc/?v=7885444af42e

ICU to NATS Pin Calculator - https://mega.nz/file/M9l3zJyR#TLDF_-AHx2AUjU__SpN0CAqH7U0546VTHFQ3oG_FYo4

Hardware Needed

You also obviously need a new key blank with an immobiliser chip and a OBD cable, the maker of Nissan Datascan says to use Vag-Com cables. Both of these items can be found in many places online, but here are two examples. You will also need to have the key cut to match your ignition barrel.

New Key Blank with Immobiliser chip - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/116278330690

Vag-Com OBD Cable - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184531472003

Get your NATS PIN Code

1. The pin for many nissans upto 2008 will simply be 5523, if your immobiliser has an A in front of the serial number, try this code first. If it fails, we can generate the key

2. Run the ICU to NATS Pin Calculator software and you will see an example of the sticker we need to find.

3. To access this sticker, you need to remove the 4 screws underneath the lower steering wheel cowling and you should be able to bend it back far enough to see the ignition barrel, if you use your phone camera you should be able to get a picture of the sticker located on the top which should look very similar to the example one shown.

4. I have done a few of these and the positions of the numbers does seem to vary, so try a few numbers that you see and get a few potential codes ready to go. The numbers will always be the same length as shown in the example, even if they're in different places!

5. Simply enter the numbers in the rough locations shown and you will get a NATS PIN.

Key Coding Process

1. Connect the OBD cable to your car and open the NDS software

2. Turn the car to ignition on

3. In NDS, select the "ECM" tab and click Connect

4. Once connected, click "Work Support"

5. Enter your NATS code in the "Program Immobiliser Key" section

6. Click "Program"

7. The software will warn you that all keys will be erased. If you have a working key(s), make sure you have this with you as you will be re-adding all keys back into the ECM. Click Yes to continue.

8. The key currently in the ignition will be programmed, you will then see a message. If you have more keys, follow the instructions shown.

• Turn the ignition off
• Remove the key,
• Re-insert the key you just programmed
• Turn the ignition to on for 5 seconds
• Then back to off for 5 seconds,
• Then insert the second key
• Turn the ignition to on for 5 seconds
• Then back to off for 5 seconds,
• Repeat for as many keys as you have

9. If you have no further keys, or have registered all the keys you have, simply follow the message and do the following

• Turn the ignition off
• Remove the key,
• Re-insert the key you just programmed
• Start the car

SImple as that! New keys added to NATS for under £50 all-in!

 

The entire process is around a 30 min job

Parts

Nice and simple, you need one part, either a left (Passenger) or Right (Driver) side window motor. These have come down hugely in price and are available brand new for under £20-30 nowadays, links below to Amazon and eBay parts, as usual, Amazon seem to be more expensive for these things with no added value IMO.

Passenger Amazon

Passenger eBay

Driver Amazon

Driver eBay

Both Motors eBay

Tools

Again, super simple install, you need:

10mm socket (with extension bar)

12mm socket

Philips PZ3 Sized Screwdriver

Duct Tape (yes, really)

Step 1 - Door Card Removal

There's no photos here, its very simple

1) Open the door handle and pop out the black trim behind the handle, undo the screw behind that using the PZ3 screwdriver or the 10mm socket on an extension bar.

2) Pop off the silver trim (very carefully) on the door handle using a screwdriver/butter knife. Undo both screws you can now access at the top and bottom again using the PZ3 screwdriver or the 10mm socket on an extension bar. Remove door grab handle.

3) Remove the electric window switch/arm rest trim, it just pops off by lifting up the back first. Disconnect the plug from the window switch buttons and remove the new screw (or two, depends which side you're working on) you can now see, again using the PZ3 screwdriver or the 10mm socket on an extension bar.

Note: If working on the drivers side, remember to remove the screw hidden under the plastic cap inside the ashtray in the door

4) Pull the door card from the door starting at the bottom left, its take some pulling pull will pop off bit by bit.

5) Then, you need to tilt the card by pulling the bottom slightly towards you and lift up to unhook it from the top of the door.

Step 2 - Prep

1) Take your Duct/Duck tape and tape the window CLOSED. By this, I mean run some tape all the way along your window glass and rubber trim on the outside of the door. This ensures the window stays up and fixed into place which makes later re-assembly a whole lot easier without a piece of glass flopping around inside your door skin!

2) We need clearer access to the inner door, so we need to remove those flexible springy wires that attach to the inner door handle. On the inside of the drivers door card, follow the black springy things back to the door handle on the door card. Life UP on the white pieces, popping them free of the retaining clip and wiggle the ball on the end of the cable out of its socket.

3) Remove fully and set aside safely.

Step 3 - Panel Removal

Ok, photo time!

1) Unclip the window motor cable by pressing and pilling on the connectors shown in blue. Once unclipped, CAREFULLY but forcefully shove the whole white connector block towards the car, at some stage it will release off of its plastic retaining clip and strip a chunk of skin from your knuckles, that's your sacrifice to the car gods meaning the rest of your work is now blessed and will go smoothly. Lastly, poke the rubber grommet back inside of the door.

2) Undo the 12 bolts shown here in blue with a 10mm socket and keep them all together as theyre all the same.

3) Next, undo the 3 bolts shown here in Green with a 10mm socket, keep these in order as two are the same and one is different. These hold the window motor in place.

4) Undo the 2 bolts shown here in Pink with a 10mm socket, and put aside, they're the same. These hold the top section of the window rails in place.

5) Lastly for now, undo the 2 bolts shown here in Red with a 12mm socket, and put aside, they're the same. These hold the bottom section of the window rails in place.

6) This will be tough as the inner panel is sealed with some adhesive goop to the door skin, but find somewhere where you can get your fingers and start lifting the metal panel away, it will only come so far due to the wires shown at the bottom in red still being attached. You just need to pull it from the door enough so that it drops down and gives you access to the inner door skin. Don't use anything sharp as you don't really want to damage the sealant.

Step 4 - Motor Swap

1) When you pop off the metal panel, you'll see the window motor, cable spool and bracket just laying there. Flip it over and undo the three gold screws as shown in blue with the Philips PZ3 screwdriver. These will be exceptionally tight, make sure you have a good solid grip and use some penetrating spray if required. The screws are all the same, so set them aside.

2) Remove the old motor and insert the old one in its place, re-attaching with the same screws.

NOTE: The motor is on what's called a "Worm Drive" meaning if the shaft of your new motor isn't in the right place to fit unto the spool holder, you cant just turn the shaft to get it to line up. You will need to connect your window motor and window switch controls for whichever side your working on and press the window up/down button to get the shaft in the correct spot for installation. In my case, it was off by a tad, so a tiny blip on the window switch made it spin just enough so I could pop it into the spool holder. Kinda hard to explain, but you'll figure it out.

Step 5 - Re-assembly.

Reassembly can be fiddly, so il do my best to explain the order I found works best.

1) Push the rubber grommet attached to the window motor cable through the large hole in the inner metal skin.

2) With the new motor attached to the bracket and cable spool, lift up the metal inner door card you removed earlier and whilst holding the motor with your arm inside the door from the top, place it roughly over its three mounting holes and hand-thread in the three mounting screws so the motor doesn't disappear into the door somewhere.

3) Next, with your fingers and hands squeezed in wherever you can, attach the lower front window rail with the 12mm bolt, again, just hand tight, but otherwise this thing is IMPOSSIBLE to screw in if you don't do it now, this is the bolt shown in Red in the earlier metal skin bolt removal fest. Don't worry about the rear one, its nut protrudes much further and can easily be accessed later.

4) Look to where you removed the Pink bolts earlier in the removal guide, you should see a hole now visible, insert the bolt into here and hand tighten it.

5) Now onto the Rear rail, again, look for the protruding bolt at the bottom of rail, locate this with its hole in the inner skin and re-attach with the 12mm nut removed earlier

6) Follow this up and as with the Front rail, you should see a hole ready to take the one remaining gold 10mm bolt that you have, thread this in

7) Now go around and tighten up all of the gold bolts. There are no torque specs I could find, so the usual, hand tight with a 6 inch ratchet is plenty tight enough.

😎 Almost there! Lift the entire inner skin up and shove it around until all of the 12 outer edge bolt holes all line up. The inner skin does have some little bumps that kinda click into place on the actual door when its in the right location. Insert all of these 10mm bolts and tighten up with the same 6 inch ratchet, that's plenty enough torque.

9) Reconnect the window motor electrics and slide the connector back onto its clip.

NOTE: Now is a GREAT time to test to see if your motor works and the window is smooth. Temporarily connect up the window switch to its plug and test window operation. Worth saying that if you replace the passenger side motor, the window switch on the drivers side for the passenger window will NOT function without the passenger side window switch actually being plugged in!

10) Grab your interior door card and re-hook it over the top of your actual door. Line up all of the connectors and tap the door card firmly so the connectors all pop back into the door. Ensure your window switch control wire is poking through the gap where the armrest goes so you can plug it in!.

11) Plug in the switch controls, fit them back into the door and attach the Armrest pad.

12) Re-insert the two 10mm bolts here that hold the inner frame of the door card to the door itself using the ratchet or PZ3 screwdriver

13) Re-attach the grab handle and re-install the two 10mm bolts using the ratchet and extension or PZ3 screwdriver.

Note: If working on the drivers side, remember to insert the screw and plastic cap back inside the ashtray in the door

14) Open the door handle and insert the screw behind that using the PZ3 screwdriver or the 10mm socket on an extension bar. Pop back in the black trim in behind the handle,

Step 5 - Testing & Calibration

Get inside the car and turn the ignition to On, try the window motor you just replaced to ensure it still works. You now need to re-calibrate the window motor so it does the "auto drop" when you open the car door and isn't triggering "pinch detection"

1) Pull up on the window switch till the window stops. It may drop due to being un calibrated and the "pinch sensor" being triggered.

1a) If it did drop, pull up on the switch again and let off. The window should stay up this time (you just over-rode the pinch protection.)

2) Now with the window fully closed, pull up on the switch and hold for approx. 3 seconds.

3) Now push the window switch all the way down until the window stops then let off the switch.

4) With the window all the way down, push the switch down again and hold it for approx. 3 seconds.

Note: The bottom limits of your windows travel are now calibrated

5) Pull up on the switch till the window goes all the way up.

6) Now with the window all the way up, pull up once more on the switch and hold it in the up position for approx. 3 seconds.

Note: The upper limits of your windows travel are now calibrated

And you're done! Super simple hardware wise and a very cheap fix. I did mine today for a grand total of £16.00 and 30 mins of my time, all ready for the summer!

Has anyone tried this and been able to get it to work? It's on an '04 uk z.

Cheers

Open your door and you'll see the rubber gaitor and plastic clip, pull down the grey lever to release it. Tip, pull the door back (close) just slightly and you actually get a little more room.

Pull the assembly down under the toor stop bracket.

Now with the clip in its open position you can remove the grey lever with a a little help from a flat blade screwdriver.

Now the black plastic cover also comes off by releasing the clip, you should just have a rubber gaitor now.

Roll back the rubber gaitor to reveal the wires.

If you fish about inside the car just above the kick panel location (kick panel removed) you will find the other half of the assembly, unclip this from the bodyshell and pull it free and into the footwell where you can work on it.

*This is the tricky bit! You need to create a hole in each of the plastic wire connectors for your new speaker cable to go through. Use some unused space away from most of the used pins. I used a knife, then a drill (about 3mm i think), then finally i used a soldering iron - there is no easy way to do this - you just need to be patient and take your time. If you mess up the neighbouring wired pins its all over - BE CAREFULL!!

*HINT - if it's cold (it was) run up your engine and put the heater on, it blows out straight onto your head while you work.

Once you have enough clearance for your new wire, clean up the connector and then it's on to the other half.

Do the same to the other half of the connector (now in the footwell). Make sure your new holes will align when you clip them back together - this is very important.

Next start to feed the new speaker cable through, i started inside the car and worked outward. Fee the cable through the plug and up through the hole in the body panel for the clip.

Next feed it though the outer clip ready to go through the rubber gaitor.

Next i pushed out the rubber gaitor from where it seats in the door. Then made a small slit in the part that sits inside the door so i could push through a large cable tie to act as a guide pull.

Now attach the speaker cable to the cable tie with a little gaffa tape (to too much - you dont want to make it too thick).

*HINT - spray a little silicon lube or 3in1 oil on you finger tips and coat the gaffa tape and cable - it will slide through easily now (it wont if you don't believe me!). Now pull/push the cable through the rubber gaitor.

Once you have the cable through, feed it into the door with enough to reach your speakers, then reseat the gaitor into the door side.

Now re-assemble the clip in reverse order.

Next re-seat the inner clip above the kick panel in the body panel, you need to feed the top part in first and then pivot the bottom part in untill it locates.

Next align the outer clip with the grey lever full down (not as photographed - i realised this after i took the photo) into position (again move the door slightly inward to give you the room to do this).

THIS IS IMPORTANT - from the inside simultaniously pull any speaker cable slack back into the car to avoid any bunching inside the clip assembly.

Next just move the grey lever back into it's locked position and there you go.

Before putting the door card back on, plug in the electric window control panel and just check everything is working ok.

*CAUTION - the two clips are male pins and a female socket, if you disturb any of the male pins significantly you could damage them when you try to re-assembly everything - they have to align on both sides.

*PS my car has been re-sprayed and there is some overspray on the clips, i could see how this might be confusing on some of the above images.

It worked for me, i now have decent cable running to the door speakers

ikarus.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

small flat bladed screw driver

Philips head screw driver

soldering iron

solder

flux

Wire strippers

common sense

good quality phono lead OR phono end and suitable cable

cable tie (optional)

REMOVING THE HEAD UNIT

1) Head Unit

2) unscrew the gear knob and pull the surround up and backwards.

3) Unclip the white ribon from the heater control unit.

A little embarrassing really after saying how reliable my Z is that said it appears the rad fans seem to be a problem for lots of Z's

I was waiting outside Tesco for my wife this morning with the AC on and thought it didn't feel as cold as normal but thought it was down to the outside temp then when she got back we drove off and got on the move and it got colder, so once home I popped the bonnet switched the ac on and only one fan was running and I knew they where both running a few weeks ago when I looked over it when buying it so with me being me I wouldn't be able to rest till I found and preferably fixed the issue I shot off to work ,

So got to work and drove it on the ramp and hooked up the diagnostics and sure enough I could power one fan up but not the other so checked the simple stuff before ripping the fan shroud out the car and whipped off the motor once on the bench I tried powering it up and could feel it was trying, it span free so wasn't seized so decided I wouldn't lose anything from opening it up and taking a look but before doing so I checked up how much they are to replace and what I found spurred me on even more to get to the bottom of the failure.

So after removing the motor from the shroud and with it on the bench I first bent the lock tabs out with a screwdriver:

Then lift off the front don't worry when you hear lots of springs and things fly about, once apart the first thing I looked at was the part of the motor the brushes sit against and cleaned this area up, I was surprised to find it wasn't very worn:

dirty:

cleaned up with a bit of emery paper:

Now for the brushes this is where I found the fault, as you can see in the picture 3 of the 4 brushes have come shooting out when I lifted it apart and one is stuck in the housing:

first I cleaned up the brushes that were out with a bit of emery to clean the contacts, carefully as there soft till the looked like this:

I then secured the 3 working ones in place with there springs behind them and held them in place with a small bit of wire (a paper clip will work) I used welding wire and if you look carefully you'll see it:

I then removed and cleaned the build up of carbon/crap from around the one that was stuck and made sure it slid freely in and out with the spring behind it which it did:

then with that one secured in place with wire too I dropped the motor down in place and removed the wire so the brushes sat against the motor:

before finally dropping the top back over it and using a hammer and punch carefully folding the lock tabs back over:

I then refitted it back into the shroud and dropped it down into place so I could hook the wire back up and test it by powering it with the diagnostics and here is where another problem arose.......

the one I fixed worked perfect but now the other side didn't run as quick It wasn't noticeable before because they were both obviously getting slow, so out it came again and I found the same problem in this one where one of the brushes was stuck, it was obviously touching enough to make it work but only just hence the slow speed.

So with that one rebuilt too and plugged back in sure enough they worked perfect at the same full speed.

Happy days an genuine fan motor off eBay is nearly £400 this cost me nothing cant get better than that.

So I'd suggest firing up your ac popping your bonnet and make sure both your fans are running and at the same speed if there not could be worth having ago,

To do the job it took me 1.5hrs including removal and refit of the shroud (just remove the air box and top rad hose and 2 10mm bolts and the shroud wriggles out) and the only tools need are a ratchet, 10mm socket, 8mm socket big flat blade screw driver, hammer and small punch, you will also want some antifreeze unless you catch it as around 1/2 a ltr comes out when removing the top hose.

Tools:

Philips head screwdriver

Pliers

Wire Crimpers

Wire Strippers

You also need to purchase a universal Mirror Fold module from eBay, such as this one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223770257610

If this link dies, try this search term eBay Search

Lastly, you'll need a bunch of red scotch loc connectors, these are also available on eBay.

Now for the magic, you need this colour coded wiring guide first as a reference.

Remove Door Card

Remove the rubber bung and screw in the door card handle/pocket on the driver’s door as shown below

Lift up on the door controls piece and remove the two electrical plugs, after this, remove the two screws shown here

Remove the plastic trim from behind the door handle and unscrew the screw deep inside the door card

Pull the door card off its plastic clips around the edges and then once all released lift upwards to remove the lip from where the window glass rolls down. Set aside the door card for now.

--------

Wiring in the Module

The module has wires as described on the table included in at the top of this guide, connect them as described in the table, or follow the info below.

NOTE: The photos shown are taken with a DE car, if you have a RevUp or a HR, make note to READ the instructions and refer to the tables at the top for correct colours.

RED WIRE:

Get the red wire from the module and then locate the thick white wire from the larger plug. Splice these two together with the scotch loc connector.

BLACK WIRE:

Get the black wire from the module and then locate the thick black wire from the smaller plug. Splice these two together with the scotch loc connector.

YELLOW WIRE:

Get the yellow wire from the module and then locate the Light Green (DE) or Green & Black (RevUp & HR) wire from the smaller plug. Splice these two together with the scotch loc connector

GREY & ORANGE WIRES:

Find the Grey Wire (DE) or White & Green Wire (RevUp & HR) and snip this part way down.

Locate the Grey wire from the module and connect this to the side of the wire going to the plug. 

Locate the Orange wire from the module and connect this to the side of the wire going to the car.

WHITE & BROWN WIRES:

Find the Purple (DE) or White & Red Wire (RevUp & HR) and snip this part way down.

Locate the White wire from the module and connect this to the side of the wire going to the plug. 

Locate the Brown wire from the module and connect this to the side of the wire going to the car.

BLUE WIRE:

This is the only tricky one. You need to remove your door speaker and locate the wiring loom tucked up inside of it.

Peel back some of the plastic loom covering and locate the purple wire as shown.

Connect the Blue wire from the module to this purple one using the included scotch loc connector.

I would advise routing it through this little paper grommet shown here below

--------

Testing

 Tuck the module behind this thick conduit of wire and stick it to the door with the included sticky pad. This keeps the module safe and stops it vibrating in the door. Just make sure the connector isn’t under any pressure as this can make it come disconnected.

Re-assemble the door card and try your mirror switch. Make sure the mirrors fold in and out according to the switch.

Next, shut the door and press Lock on the key fob and ensure the mirrors fold in. Press unlock and make sure they fold out again once you turn the car on.

If it all works as expected, re-assemble everything tidily and enjoy your new mod.

NB: If once connected your mirror switch works backwards ("Open" on the switch closes the mirrors), simply reverse the Grey and White module wires so they’re connected like this.

If you have any issues, double check your wire crimps were done properly. Listen for the relay clicking in the module when you lock and unlock the doors, this is a good indication of whether power is being supplied to the unit and its receiving the lock pulse.

Also refer to the table at the top of this page and identify which wire colour does which function and reference this with the plug drawings just below the table. This should help you troubleshoot if something isn’t working.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/258838735675475/

It's £11,750 but has only 16,000 miles! Does anyone know if this is a good deal? I haven't seen any other cars of this mileage so I don't have much to compare it to. 

Also it is a 2007 GT 350z. Does this mean it is a HR since it is past 2007?

Nissan wanted £105 for a pair of new springs but @Sim posted about upgrated springs from OpenTop for only £45 so I gave them a go. 

They are very strong.  Not used them that long but so far they work very well.  You do need to give the lid a bit of a slam so it closes properly. Maybe they are too strong!  I'd imagine if you had a large spoiler on the boot they'd still work.

I've made a video to show how they work and how to fit them. 

In an attempt to cure the knocking noise from the back I replaced the droplinks - doesn't seem to have worked but the links themselves had loads of play in them so they were well worth replacing.

A fair few people ask how to do this job and I've never found a really clear guide for the non-mechy types among us so I thought I'd write it up. This is a real spods guide so it even includes how to jack the car up!

People will tell you in this is a 10 minute job because its only 4 bolts.........they lie. Its maybe a 30 min job on a brand new car......with a ramp. On a car thats covered 34k it took me around 1 1/2 hours and the following tools.

- Breaker bar

- 14mm socket

- 17mm socket (but I think that might just be for the new links I bought - nissan replacements should remain 14ml)

- 14mm spanner - preferably ratchet if you've got one - Hellfrauds are doing the pro range set for £39.99 at the mo (half price) http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... e=shopping

- Penetrating spray

- Trolly jack

- Axle stands (unless you fancy poking Death with a stick to see what he does)

- Dremel with metal cutting disc or an angle grinder depending on the condition of the bolts (not as scary as it sounds)

- Hammer

So firstly you need to jack up the car - here are the jacking points. You'll see a little sort of bump thingy on the diff that the jacking point at the rear

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Then stick your axle stand under something solid and safe if you can't get it under the actual stand points.

Take the wheel off for better access.

This is what the ARB link looks like in situ

Its got quite a few obstructions in the way but its really important to get your breaker bar nice and square when trying to take the bolt off - otherwise you end up applying unbalanced pressure and can end up rounding the nut off.

Once you've 'cracked' the nut loose you can move on to a normal ratchet to loosen the bolt whilst using a spanner to hold the other bolt on the other side of the bracket. Once removed it can be pulled out or tapped out with a hammer if loose enough

If you end up with a ceased bolt or you end up rounding one off (they might be so rusted that this happens anyway) then your going to need a decent power Dremel preferably with a flexi head attachment (as its an awkward space to get at) or an angle grinder.

Then grind the mother off! This is the first bolt I've ever ground/cut off so I was a little nervous......be especially careful not to catch the brake lines as your pulling the cutting implement back out!

Made a bit of a pigs ear of it but ultimately the job got done!

Then put the new one in place - I found I needed to put the top bolt in first then jam the breaker bar inbetween the ARB and something soild (not sure what its called but you'll work it out), then put my weight on it to pull it down to allow the link to fit the bottom bolt.

Spanner to hold the inner nut again and socket to tighten up the outer nut on the other side of the bracket.

New link in place

Repeat on the other side (passenger side) - only difference is a little bracket with an arm coming off it (no idea what it is, does or is called!). Its very simple and looks like this

And this when its in place - it really cases no bother though

So there you have it - my first guide! Be gentle if I've detailed any bad practice in there - suggestions as to how it could be done better are always welcome.

I wanted to fit a new stereo to the Z and browsed the forums and online for a proper guide, but wasn't happy with any of them. They all seemed to be either out of date, or hastily written so didn't cover enough details. Hopefully this guide should patch up those flaws.

It is written showing the install of a Pioneer SPH-DA120 AppRadio, but the basic principles apply for any stereo install.

The cables we will be using will maintain the use of the original steering wheel controls for the audio control, but NOT for the Bluetooth (as is the case with any aftermarket headunit upgrade). In my case, this stereo is an AppRadio with Apple CarPlay so it totally replaces the stock Bluetooth dongle system which i will be removing along the way (but not documented).

Tools/Materials Needed (your requirements may slightly differ)

Screwdrivers (Magnetic ones make this easier)

Trim Removal Tools

Soldering Iron

Heat shrink & Solder

Bullet Style Cable Connectors

Parts Required (prices correct at time of writing)

All parts below are purchased from InCarTec (https://incartec.co.uk/Nissan/350Z/Stereo-Upgrade-Double-Din)

1 x Nissan 350z Bose Steering control interface - (29-674) £34.99

https://incartec.co.uk/product/Nissan-350Z-Murano-10-6-16-Pin-audio-steering-wheel-control-interface-29-674

Note, the next item is Pioneer specific, other models to suit other makes of head unit are available elsewhere on the site, they're listed on the product page of the previous item.

1 x PIONEER patch lead for 29 series SWC - (29-007) £3.99

https://incartec.co.uk/product/PIONEER-patch-lead-for-29-series-SWC-29-007

1 x Nissan 350Z Radio Facia Double Din - (50-256) £19.99

https://incartec.co.uk/product/Nissan-350Z-2003-2010-double-DIN-car-radio-fascia-adapter-panel-MATT-BLACK-50-256

Harness Identification

So, lets begin with the Steering Control Interface & ISO Connector lead.

The section shown in red is the lead allows connection between the cars factory head unit wiring and the stereo by converting it to a standard set of pins (for reference, cars wiring connects to the white sockets on the left, the standard ISO connector is the black plug on the right), this is then converted (by the lead included with your head unit) back to a custom connector to get the signals into the stereo itself. It also has a long black wire with an eyelet on it, this MUST be connected to a chassis ground in the car.

This particular model has the section shown in blue as well. This box of tricks allow connection to the steering wheel controls. The blue section has the white plug which connects to the cars connectors.

The section shown in green is just a jack plug that is the output of the steering wheel controls. This goes into the back of your head unit so it can receive the inputs/signals when you decide to use the volume or next track buttons on your wheel.

The lead shown here is the head units wiring harness, this is included in the box of your new stereo. They are specific per model, so yours wont look the same, but should be similar.

The are four things here to highlight are as follows;

Long Green Wire - This is supposed to be wired to your handbrake switch. It disables certain functions unless you are parked up with the handbrake enabled. You can make your own choice, but I will be bypassing this "safety" feature.

Short Purple & White Striped Wire - This wire takes an input from your reversing light to switch the screen to a backup camera image (if you have one installed) when reverse is selected. Its obviously optional to use this, but I will be doing so. If you don't have a reverse camera, just leave this wire alone.

Red & Yellow Wires Connected with Bullet Connectors - One of these requires a constant 12v, the other requires a switched ignition feed. My advice is to simply leave these alone. If you find that your head unit stays on when you turn off the car, just swap these around so instead of going Yellow --> Yellow and Red --> Red, they go Yellow --> Red and Red --> Yellow. In my case, the standard setup was correct.

Blue & White Striped Wire on Bullet Connectors - This is used normally to connect to external amplifiers and it controls the power on them (like a digital on/off switch). In our case, the 350z has a power antenna, so we need to use this wire for that. It also controls the power to the factory fitted BOSE amplifier on the GT spec cars.

Connections (part 1)

OK, so lets grab hold of the head units harness, notice the double stacked connector like this, the top having less pins than the bottom?

The top set is used for the head unit power, ground and various other inputs, the bottom half is for the speakers (normally).

Go ahead and grab the InCarTec loom, and find this black plug

Notice how the pin count matches the top section. Go ahead and click them together.

Harness Modifications

So, we now need to slightly alter the harness.

Step 1 - Connecting the on/off cable for the powered antenna

On your newly connected harnesses, you should now have two loose white & blue striped wires like the photo below. For reference, the InCarTec loom is the left, the Pioneer loom is on the right.

These need to be joined to allow the antenna to receive power when the head unit is turned on. Despite how it looks if you look at the loom, in standard configuration these aren't connected (I verified this using a multimeter set to continuity).

As you can see, I simply crimped on a bullet connected and pushed them together. If you don't have one of these you can cut and solder them together.

Step 2 - Bypassing the parking brake detection on the head unit

Note: Manufacturers add this 'safety feature' for a reason. Its up to you whether you choose to bypass it. Im not sure of any legal or insurance related implications to doing this, so make up your own mind.

Bypass methods vary between manufactures and even models, so if you do carry this out, check that yours is as simple as this. Some models require relays to be connected instead of this method!

So, locate the grounding wire. On the InCarTec loom, it is black and has the little eyelet on it. You should be able to follow this back through the connection block and see it matches up to the black wire on the head unit loom.

Locate the green parking brake detection wire on the head unit loom. Cut this, and the black cable on the same loom to the same length and twist together as shown.

Solder these connections together and seal with some heat shrink

Lastly, I have never had to do this before, but it turns out that because the Z has a amplifier built into it, the adaptor cables that you buy mean you have to connect your speakers with the phono cables, rather than the usual set of + and - wires that speakers come with (which would normally connect to the lower half of the ISO plug adaptor shown earlier. The issue with this is that it means the speakers are only provided with 4v, rather than the usual 12v. You can correct this 'issue' by following busters harness modification linked below. I have now written a proper guide for this available below.

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/107583-how-to-busters-rca-headunit-volume-fix-guide/

I personally have done this mod, but as you can see from the guide above I hacked up another connector from another 350z ISO wiring loom so if i want to unplug this from the car im still able to do so as nothing is soldered in. Your call. If you dont do this mod, you will have lower sound levels, and remember to actually connect the phono leads! Busters original topic is below, my guide is above.

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/58947-reduced-sound-out-put-after-replacing-oe-bose/

Anyway, the wiring harness modifications are now complete. You should now have a single black plug to connect to your head unit. One white plug with only 3 or 4 pins in it to connect to the Zeds steering wheel controls and two white plugs with lots of pins to connect to the factory stereo wiring.

The last job to do is connect this bundle of wires to your stereo. This will vary per head unit, so I wont bother to describe it, but in my example, it was a single large black plug for all of the audio, power and control stuff, then a single 3.5mm jack for the steering wheel controls, plus another plug for the GPS antenna, some USB connectors and an AUX in. Connect this up following the head units instructions and then its onto the install.

Out With The Old

OK, so the first step here is to free the central part of the dash. This is held in by a total of 6 screws, with only two other things in the way.

First, remove the gear gaiter surround by pulling up on the silver ring as shown, then just twist this part and leave it dangling around the passenger foot well area. You may then want to put the car into 2nd, 4th, 6th or reverse as it gives you another inch or so of free space to work with.

Next, you need to remove this white ribbon cable as shown in blue. To remove it, press the clip down firmly (shown in red) and pull away from the unit. Be careful with this as the ribbon cable can tear with relative ease.

Then, you need to remove these two gold coloured screws on the lower part of the dash, one is shown here in red, the other is just on the other side. Remove these and keep them safe

Next, we have four screws again on the lower part of the dash. The gold ones, here shown in red, hold the head unit mounting bracket to the car, the black ones here shown in blue hold the A/C control box (the big white thing) in place. This gets in the way of removal of the stereo, so you just need to remove these 4 screws and leave the A/C control unit dangling free for now.

Next, open the cubby hole in the centre of the dash, pull the rubber mat upwards and you will now see 2 screws. These hold the plastic piece in place which acts as the locking mechanism for the cubby door, but they also hide a further 2 screws we need to remove. Therefore, remove the two screws (locations shown in red) and then lift out the plastic piece.

Now we can see the last of the two hidden screws, they should be gold in colour and are shown here in red. You will need a magnetic screwdriver to get these out, or you will more than likely drop them and loose them behind the dashboard!

NOTE: With your new unit, you MUST attach the ground wire. Using my multimeter I have found that the bracket that these two screws fix into is actually grounded. Therefore, on assembly of the wiring harness, I attached the eyelet from my ground wire to this screw, providing the head unit with a ground.

The centre dash is now free from the car. Start to pull it out from the bottom to the top slowly and carefully. Once you get to the top, you will need to undo the white connector shown here in red. It has a VERY short lead so don't pull it, but to remove it, you need to press the little plastic lock which will be facing the windscreen. It works the same way as the heater control ribbon cable from earlier, its just a little tricky because you cant actually see the clip. Anyway, remove this and then carefully remove the entire of the centre dash.

Once freed, you can now see the rear of the BOSE head unit. Remove the three white plugs by pressing down the little clip (same as all the others) and pulling. The black antenna connector just pulls out of its socket (it fits a bit like a 12v car charger fits into its socket)

Now we need to free the old unit from the cars mounting brackets. You should now be able to remove the entire of this large centre dash out of the car which will make this easier. Anyway, remove the 4 screws shown here in red, do the same the other side and carefully remove the BOSE from the mounting brackets.

All old items should now be removed, so if we're all ready, let's move on.

NOTE: The BOSE head unit is 'Married' to your car. Unless properly removed and de-registered (which isn't something you can do) it wont work in any other vehicle. Just a reminder in-case you were thinking of selling it.

In With The New

So now we can see our cables properly. The two red circled plugs send data for power & ground etc, and for the speakers, the third plug shown in blue is for steering wheel controls and the fourth black one shown in green is for antenna. You need to now connect these to your new wiring harness that we prepared earlier. The plugs all only fit 1 way, so don't be scared of this step. Also fit the antenna into the new head unit by simply pushing it into its slot.

NOTE: Remember to attach the ground wire at this stage! You can attach it anywhere you want, but as I mentioned, the screws that you removed that were hidden behind the cubby are actually attached to a grounded bracket, so id advise you use these.

I didn't take any photos of this stage, but you must now remove the factory mounting brackets from the dash piece so we can fit our new facia adaptor. These are simply held in place by a single black screw on either side. Remove these and then lay down the facia adaptor into its hole.

NOTE: As-long as you've grounded the unit, now is a good time to turn the car on and test the head unit. Just ensure it powers on, sound can be heard out of the speakers, the steering wheel controls work and it powers down when you turn it off again.

If your head unit required any other connectors such as a GPS antenna, rear aux in, USB input or a reverse camera, attach these now as well.

You can now fix the brackets you just removed onto your new head unit. The unit SHOULD come with new screws, so please use these if it does. My unit had several holes drilled on the sides, each with a letter. The manual told you which holes to use for which manufacturer of car. Mine were all labelled 'N' for Nissan . Fit the screws but don't tighten them all the way up for now.

Again, no photos here, but you can now place the head unit with its new mounting brackets back into its location on the dash piece. You need to re-secure this with the two black screws you removed earlier.

Adjust the position of everything so it all fits square in its new home and fully tighten all 6 of the head unit screws and the two black bracket mounting screws.

Assembly Is The Reverse Of Disassembly

Yep, i hate that saying too, but it kinda is. To re-assemble you need to carefully put the centre dash piece back into the car. Your first task is to stuff the whole bunch of new wires into their home which is usually relatively difficult as space is tight.

Next, look at the bottom part of the dash and get the two metal 'legs' back in the right place behind the white heater control box, re-attach the two gold screws.

Now re-mount the heater control box in its home, and re-attach using the two black screws.

Screw in the screws hidden behind the cubby hole again using your magnetic screwdriver to hold them as you find the hole. (Remember the earth wire should be screwed in with one of these!)

Clip in the electrical connector for the three centre pod gauges.

Re-attach the two gold screws that are right at the bottom and towards the front of the centre dash piece.

Put the plastic latch mechanism back in the cubby hole and re-attach the two black screws. Remember to lay down the rubber mat back into here once done.

Completion

That's it, your job is now complete. Below are two pictures of my finished install.

Overall, its quite a simple job as-long as you have the right harness.

For me, total install time including wiring in all my extras was around 3 hours, and harness modification (as I also bypassed the phono cabled) was about 1.5 hours, obviously your mileage may vary.

Hope the guide is of help, and any questions please just ask

What you need to do the penny trick is just a few pennies the amount you put on each side will probably depend on how much extra weight needs to be lifted. I would suggest starting with a couple and seeing how it goes, I have used 4 on each side of mine but i do have a hoooge spoiler

Step 1 - remove the bump stop

This just simple twists a quarter turn either way then just pulls off.

Step 2 - remove the rubber cover that conceals the spring mechanism

Step 3 - Insert required amount of pennies

Step 4 - re-assemble and re-fit the bump stop

Voila your boot should work 'as intended' once again

Hope this helps

Alternator check.pdf

So when i first looked at 350z's i did the classic thing of being so overwhelmed that i was going to own one, i completly disregarded the trim level. So i got a Non GT HR.

Dont get me wrong, i love the car, had it for 3 years and never really been bothered by the lack of cruise control.

Since lock down has started, iv started getting bored and spending money on the Z (Havent we all ) After fitting Brides, NRG QR Wheel, Stilen Gen3's, Tomei, ISR Decats, and Miltek Y, i decided a remap was needed. I then realised the error of my car choice... no map switching! I really wanted the pop and bang maps, but i didnt want it on all the time.

After hunting around online i found out @Adrian@TORQEN sells the 350z Retro fit cruise switches. How hard can it be?

The problem was, with the NRG wheel and QR i didnt want to mount the switch on the hub (it just looks messy)

Parts/Tools
350z Cruise Retrofit switches - Link

Some 4 core flexi wire (i got a 5m roll from screwfix)
Some snips

Soldering kit, or a way of joining wires (i actually used some Connector blocks so that i could re do the wiring if needed)

MultiMeter - With an audiable continuity test

2 x Saftey pins

The process is pretty straight forward, apart from the wiring, that was the bit that stumped me !

Firstly, remove the wheel, and hub so you can see the plug where the horn/airbag/steering controls go. On my NRG the QR was held in with around 6 alen key bolts and then the hub was held on with a 17mm nut.

Once this is all removed, remove the lower half of the steering colum plastic, this is just held in with 4 philips screws. It might help if you have a pry tool to seperate it from the upper half.

Once this is out, you will find a metal cage around the wiring, this is held in with 3 philips screws, 2 at the back, one at the front on the left hand side. Remove this.


You should now have full access to a Grey and yellow plug just behind the hub. You will want the Grey Plug.
Everywhere i looked online seemed to have differant colour wires compared to me? you will notice the wires going into the hub steeringwheel side do not match the colours comming out of the grey plug. This is the tricky part!

Colour wires

1 - Yellow with Green Stripe

2 - Black with White Stripe

3 - Orange

4 - Yellow

5 - Black

6 - Red with Black Stripe

7 - Green

8 - Red with Green Stripe

(excuse my poor drawing of the plug)

For me, i used wires 1,2,5,6 . I would imagine they are the same on all Z's in terms of wire location, but colours would be differant.
 

Cut the end of your plug off from the cruise switch and plug it into the hub.

For cruise control, you will only need to look at the Red, Yellow, Pink, and black cables. The rest are for the horn and volume controls.

Put a safety pin down the side of the red wire so its touching the metal conection within the plug, then place the a pin in wire "1" the other side of the hub on the Grey plug.

Get your multimeter and put it in continuity mode, this will basicly check the wire reaches each end of the multimeter prongs. Place one prong on each of the paper clips. If you get a tone, you have a "Complete circuit"

Move the paper clip along each wire in the grey plug and write down what wire gives you a tone for each wire steering wheel side.

I got the following:

Steering Wheel side                                   Grey plug Side

Red                                                                Green/Yellow

Black                                                              Black + Black/White

Yellow                                                            Red/Black

Pink                                                                Black + Black/White

Next i drilled a small hole in the front of the sliding ashtray, towards the gear stick. This was so i could feed the cable through as i wanted to mount the controls in teh ash tray. I fed the multi core, through, alongside the gearstick and up to the grey plug

I cut the Green/Yellow and Red/Black wires from the grey plug and connected them to one core each out of the multi core cable i had run, and then connected the corresponding Red and Yellow wires from the switch to teh corresponding cores. This essentially used up wires 1 and 6 on the grey plug.

I found in the owners manual that the black wire on teh cruise switch actually goes through two connections within the hub, and comes out on the black/white cable. So that uses up plug points 1,2,6

As i was getting a tone on port 5 for the pink cable, and that was the only one i wasnt sure on, i took the chance and connected it to port 5 (black)

Install the Brake and clutch switch that comes with the kit (my car already had the clutch one installed for some reason)

and good news. After a map, it all worked!

Will try and get some photos up soon

Since I got my Z 2 yrs ago, I have always loved the car, but one thing has always annoyed me, and that is the high biting point of the car. Makes pulling off very tricky and amateurish, often very bumpy, and not good for my street cred, lol.

Shortly after buying the car, I replaced the clutch, which was much better, but still that biting point felt too high, and with a grippier paddle clutch, this made taking off all of a bigger problem. And I love smooth getaways.

So after some research, I found out how to adjust my clutch pedal, and oh my god, it makes the Z a whole lot more pleasurable to drive, im not nervous about pulling away at lights anymore, and I can drive the car how I want to again!

Always been used to cars with low biting points, so the Z has been hard to get used to, and I still struggled, a high biting point, just isnt my driving style.....

So anyway, I fixed it, with a few guides from the net, and thought I would add my own one here.

At this point can I point out, that your not adjusting the actual biting point of the clutch, just the position of the clutch pedal. Therefore you wont be "riding" the clutch, nor burning it out. Its simply a mod, to lower the pedal, so the biting point appears to be lower.

Before I started, I noticed that my clutch pedal was a good inch higher than the brake pedal, when i finished, it was about 10mm lower than it.

Tools I found I needed, were a 12 mm spanner, a work light and some nose pliers

Now this is the tricky bit, accessing the part....

You basically have to get on your back and slide in, under the steering wheel, so that your looking up at the pedals, and behind the steering assembly ( Now im 6'2 20 stone, and i managed it) I found that if you push the seat back and as low to the ground as possible, you could perch your bum on the end of the seat, and rest your legs on the shoulders of the drivers seat... lol

When you look up, this is what your presented with...

Now there are 2 sensors on the clutch pedal, when its released (normal position) it touches the sensor that operates the cruise control

NOTE: If you adjust the clutch pedal too low, when the pedal is released, it wont touch this sensor, therefore cruise control will not work, i been told, after a few days the engine check light comes on because of this, so even if you dont use cruise control, please dont upset the car. This sensor can be adjusted with a 12mm bolt, but I found it easier to stick a red 5mm spacer onto the pedal, as you can see. ( YOU Dont have to do this) Only reason I done this, is because I like my biting point low.

The other sensor activates the engine start, and works when pedal is depressed, so shouldnt interfere with what we are doing.

Now the bolt we are aiming for, is a long silver bolt, with a lock nut on it, attaching to a gold U bracket, which attaches to the clutch pedal, it has spines down it, so not hard to spot.

You need to get your 12mm spanner up there, and twist the lock nut loose, I didnt find mine hard at all, but some people wedge a screwdriver into the U bracket, to stop it twisting when you force the lock nut loose.

Once its loose, get your nose pliers, and adjust the silver bolt to your desire. Most people agree 2 turns is about normal. When I first looked at mine, I had about 2 lines of thread showing through the Gold U Bracket. As you can see now, I have nearly 4 lines of thread.

Please note, when turning the main Silver bolt, its very hard, with nose pliers, I was only moving it about 1-2mm at a time cos of the restricted space, just be persistent with it, it will come. Make sure you turn it the right way, the more thread you see in the U Bracket, the shorter the pedal throw will become, and the less thread you see in the U Bracket, the longer the throw of the pedal, please dont unscrew it out though, god forbid I dont know how you will get it back in!!

Once adjusted, depress the clutch a few times with your hand, making sure it hits the sensors, before tightening your lock nut back up again. Or do what I do, take it for a spin, see how it feels, make sure your cruise control works, if it dosent feel right, than just readjust.

Job Done!

Now my clutch pedal sits like this, compared to my brake pedal

Your pretty much aiming for the pedal to sit level with the brake pedal, mine sits about 10mm lower than it, but thats my personal taste.

Summary

1. Tools needed, 12mm spanner, nose plier, work light (WD40)

2. Release Lock nut above Gold U Bracket

3. Turn Silver Spindle bolt to suit (2 turns) and please make sure you dont twist it the wrong way, so it comes out of the U Bracket!!

4. Once adjusted, tighten lock nut back again.

5. Repeat procedure until you have desired feel of your clutch pedal.

6. Takes about 20mins, 10mins once you know what your doing.....

DISCLAIMER: All mods are taken at your own risk. This is purely a guide. Nor Me or http://www.350z-uk.com take any responsibilty for your own mods, and if your break anything, You do this all at your own risk.