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Rocker cover grommets - no need to replace entire RC


RobPhoboS

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Well I got both rocker covers off (the bracket near cyl 5 was a right pain in the arse) and repaired all 6 grommets.

 

A couple of observations: a 51mm hole saw takes one of the grommet holes very very close to the edge of the surrounding plastic, leaving a wafer thin edge. Given that there is one or two mm space around the plastic guide tool inside the hole saw, perhaps a 50mm saw would be better than 51mm.

 

It's amazing how the chaff from the drilled-out plastic gets into nooks and crannies in the cam cover (which of course has the potential to later get into the oil). I recommend having a vacuum cleaner alongside the drill to capture the waste before it runs off and hides.

 

Finally, because of the fine edge above, I put RTV on the underside of the grommet, like the z33 garage guy does in his video. In hindsight though this is going to be in direct contact with hot oil?? (worried now - is that going to be a problem with the RTV breaking off and getting into the oil/engine?

 

(edited to correct 52mm to 51mm)

Edited by thedon
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Yep, I should have mentioned this as well, especially regarding that thin edging.

I was very, very careful, and like yourself I used the RTV on that exposed side as well (loads of it :lol:). I used the black RTV as I bought it before Adrian was including it in the kit, and that stuff is rated upto 600°F (315C) - the engine oil shouldn't be getting up to that heat :scare:

If you're regularly tracking it, a Mishimoto oil cooler would be advisable anyway.

And yep, it's also why I'll be changing the oil/filter again to ensure it's all clean in there :thumbs:

 

I think rev-up's+ have a limp mode I think with high oil temp.

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I didn't look at the thickness of the walls that were left, I trust the guide tool did a good job at keeping it aligned, but yeah the plastic gets everywhere!

 

I used quite a lot of RTV on the inside of the new seals, obviously there is some overspill but only into the air gap/hole that the coilpack goes into (where the leakeing oil used to end up sitting) so shouldn't be an issue.

 

I wouldn't think theres much pressure on that cam cover anyway, even a few mm's of plastic would take quite a few PSI to perforate so wouldn't personally have bothered with any extra RTV, but as rob says, its rated for high temps so shouldn't start melting, if it does, you've got much MUCH worse things going on!

Edited by cs2000
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Well, all back together again and amazingly the car still works :lol:

 

Once I'd got the right cover past the tight bracket it all went back together again with no dramas. Oil pressure good and it drives well. Will check for any oil drips in the morning but praying there are none - I really don't fancy stripping it back down again just yet.

 

I've attached a picture that shows how not to let the waste plastic build up (it's a pig to flush it all out again). For anyone about to attempt the job you can also see the ring of plastic that you drill out from the baffle, letting you pry up the existing grommet.

 

Good luck!

post-19134-0-61035000-1430080294_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Interesting...my MPG has gone from 18 to 19 (shorter journeys than you I guess) which I didn't consider too much, but it's the same percentage gain as you.

 

The car is running smoother, but I put that down to cleaning the plenum and the plenum side of the throttle plate. Whatever, I'm happy :teeth:

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  • 1 year later...

Well done Rob, looking forward too it. Let us know the total job time length!

 

As promised (and Adrian, feel free to steal it) I have recreated the alignment tool in a 3d model so if anybody wants another for some reason, or theirs breaks, you can send the STL file to a 3d printing company, or use your own 3d printer and get one re-made.

 

http://cs2000.cronus...gnment-tool.stl

 

 

Link doesn't work, are you able to email me the file please? Email in my signature.

 

Thanks a lot!

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