G1en Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Same as davey. I use whatever water is left from main wash to clean the wheels, goes down well with the eco types in the street. I then get the pressure washer out and blast them with 500ltrs which makes Yorkshire Water shareholders happy. I usually then start on my car if the wife is happy with how ive done hers. 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted November 21, 2018 Author Share Posted November 21, 2018 I always do wheels first because of the pressure washer. The last rinse of the wheels is always with the pressure washer (otherwise I always, always, miss bits on the wheels) which at best means water on the pristine clean and dry paintwork. At worst it's all the filth from the wheels splattered all over the nice clean paintwork meaning you have to start again. I always do the wheels (and exhaust) first then start with on the paintwork with snow foam. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted November 21, 2018 Author Share Posted November 21, 2018 I also do the wheels in a very specific order... partially because I'm a bit "special" but more so for the other reason not to do the wheels last; to avoid kneeling in puddles! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G1en Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 When i say blast them, i mean rinse them. It was for dramatic effect. They are rinsed with rest of car after wash. I blast them first as you do then use whatever wheel cleaner/fallout remover i have to hand which gets to work whilst i snowfoam the rest of the car, then rinse, wash car, then wheels after with said left over water then rinse off with pressure washer and dry. Works for me. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Totally doesn't make any sense to wash and dry the paintwork, to then clean the wheels lol dry the vehicle and wheels after washing 100% Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 You guys are crazy Lots of interesting points but the correct way is three buckets, one for wheels, two for wash and rinse of the paint. Naturally nothing that touches paint ever touches anything that touches wheels. Wheels have their own mitt and various brushes. Brake dust is too fine for me to trust in my good buckets. Decon goes on the wheels (and exhaust) first and sits there whilst snow goes on the paint. Whilst the foam dwells on the paint, pressure wash the wheels and arches, then get your soaked brushes on the wheels (no particular order, that’s weird ) then get them all clean before the snow foam starts to show signs of drying on the paint. Proceed with normal paint wash, simples! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted November 21, 2018 Author Share Posted November 21, 2018 Drying the wheels? Well I've heard of everything now... I don't dry my car these days, I use filtered water for the final rinse. If I did the wheels last, the surrounding panels (the horizontal ones at least) would be dry by then. If I waited until after the wheels to do the final rinse there'd be waterspots everywhere. I'm not fussed about waterspots on the wheels though, the silver hides them a lot better than the blue. I didn't mean to suggest you guys were doing it wrong or anything, merely explaining my reasons for starting with the wheels. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted November 21, 2018 Author Share Posted November 21, 2018 1 minute ago, SuperStu said: (no particular order, that’s weird ) a) Yes. Yes it is. But, 2) my driveway isn't flat, so when I say a particular order I mean I always start at the wheel most downhill, whichever way the car is parked - that way I'm not kneeling in water. And, c) I'm just weird. Suck it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G1en Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Do you have numbered dust caps to get the right order each time or is like changing gears so you instinctively know the next move? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted November 21, 2018 Author Share Posted November 21, 2018 Each one has his or her own name and personality.... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G1en Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Must make tyre changes quite emmotional. Matt: just be careful with Barry mechanic: i will do, i take it thats what you call the car? Matt: No, Barry is the left rear, take your eye off him for a second and he’ll be rolling away, little terror. Mechanic: right....... 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted November 21, 2018 Author Share Posted November 21, 2018 It's like you were there! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sim Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Thanks all I use two buckets, wheels last and with different cleaning implements, some funny long brushes and a cloth that is never used on the rest of the car. I keep my drying cloth handy in case I get any water on the already dried paint. Only after it is all done do I wax or detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 1 hour ago, G1en@waxandshine said: Do you have numbered dust caps to get the right order each time or is like changing gears so you instinctively know the next move? I literally have a order for wheels, cleanest to dirtiest for obvious reasons so..... OSR, NSR, OSF and finally NSF every time, every car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul K Posted November 22, 2018 Share Posted November 22, 2018 3 bucket wash for me...wheels first, always...nothing used on wheels goes anywhere near the paintwork. i also have Black Microfibres for drying the wheels after....so even when they are clean, i know not to use the black microfibres on anything else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted November 22, 2018 Author Share Posted November 22, 2018 Per the condensed thread; In the spirit of fairness on the fallout remover test, Bilt Hamber have posted the following in response to this particular test; http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=410032 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 On 22/11/2018 at 21:17, ilogikal1 said: Per the condensed thread; In the spirit of fairness on the fallout remover test, Bilt Hamber have posted the following in response to this particular test; http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=410032 Even handed, if a little patronising response from BH. I can’t help but feel whining on about weights of product and dissolved contaminants is like saying, “My VW got 75mpg in the laboratory tests” when its just killed yet another polar bear under real world driving conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted November 24, 2018 Author Share Posted November 24, 2018 It was a well reasoned, if somewhat political, response. I have to admit that I completely disagree with his penultimate paragraph about the capacities of the products - perhaps it's just my layman (mis)understanding, but if capacity were the all important factor on performance, surely the only ingredient in every fallout remover would be thioglycolate...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veeg33 Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 I believe DIY really life test more than measured lab test in the case hence your test is much more likely to give guidance to me on which one to buy. I feel BH is indirect saying your test is complete BS and should not be taken into consideration when choosing the right product. As Stu said, lab will give a MPG figure that you'll never achieve in real life. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 56 minutes ago, ilogikal1 said: It was a well reasoned, if somewhat political, response. I have to admit that I completely disagree with his penultimate paragraph about the capacities of the products - perhaps it's just my layman (mis)understanding, but if capacity were the all important factor on performance, surely the only ingredient in every fallout remover would be thioglycolate...? I think that goes for any product, detailing or otherwise, that has an active ingredient. There's also (amongst many other) things to consider like the overall volatility of the product, it's viscosity, how it copes with non-target contaminants or surfaces and simple usability. I'd love to wash my car in lab, where there is only brake contamination on the surface, but then I'd never be able to take it out on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 So in shock news, amateur detailer posts up amateur real-world test and the manufacturer is then surprised that it was conducted in an amateur way? Well, I am utterly shocked by that. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 And please don't take my use of the word amateur to be offensive, I mean it purely as an opposite of being done in a lab in scientific conditions. I know you know that, but just for clarity so no-one thinks I'm being an arse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted November 24, 2018 Author Share Posted November 24, 2018 46 minutes ago, Ekona said: And please don't take my use of the word amateur to be offensive, I mean it purely as an opposite of being done in a lab in scientific conditions. I know you know that, but just for clarity so no-one thinks I'm being an arse You can make it up to me by paying me for my detailing. I’d be a pro then. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted November 24, 2018 Author Share Posted November 24, 2018 58 minutes ago, SuperStu said: I think that goes for any product, detailing or otherwise, that has an active ingredient. There's also (amongst many other) things to consider like the overall volatility of the product, it's viscosity, how it copes with non-target contaminants or surfaces and simple usability. I'd love to wash my car in lab, where there is only brake contamination on the surface, but then I'd never be able to take it out on the road. Yep, there must be other factors involved besides the concentration of the active ingredient, otherwise all offerings would be the exact same formula (such as IPA) so Pete’s comment about my test not doing certain products justice because on paper they should work better is a bit of questionable logic, IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted November 24, 2018 Author Share Posted November 24, 2018 Whilst certain brands may not appreciate my test, Car Chem certainly did.... so much so, that as a thank you they have sent me their new Car Cosmetics Trio Kit (currently on a Black Friday sale, by the way; http://car-chem.com/store/car-cosmetics/black-friday-sale-detailing) on them. Cheers guys, especially Luke. My understanding is that is Super Suds Shampoo is based on their 1900:1 shampoo (which I'm a fan of), Hydro Seal sounds like it is/based on Hydro Coat (which I'm a fan of) and Iron Detox I expect is/based on Revolt (I'm sure you know how I feel about that by now!), so I'm looking forward to trying these out. Expect reviews! (Just don't expect them soon...) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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