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Scream if you want to go faster!


evilscorp

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DIY guide of what not to do.... probably.

.

 

Bought the car summer 2010 stayed standard 2 weeks then zeditus struck. I dont eat or buy new clothes, my shoes have holes in them my girlfriend moved to Singapore for a year as my other "woman" has taken over. Life sucks :-D

 

JDM 2003 track spec or whatever crazy option list they ticked.

brembos and lsd all I cared about.

 

BODYWORK

ing+1 full bodykit with poo paint job(one of two things I did not fit myself) Now with oem bumper GT lip and carbon canards

seibon VS carbon bonnet with fiberglass reinforcement removed in areas to allow raisd strut bar to fit.

zspeed undertray

Stubby arial

Drift crash bar

Carbon ebay eyelids,.

 

 

 

WHEELS

rota 19"grids in black

245/275 falken 452 tyres

 

SUSPENSION

BC br series

new bushes and bolts for some of the hubs.

Eibach roll bars

Whiteline drop links

whiteline diff and subframe bushes

whiteline rear axle bushes

eibach camber arms

SPL traction arms

 

 

BRAKES

DBA disc's all round

ebc yellows or ferrodo's trying them both out.

Hel gold lines to match the brembo calipers and BC's

 

(hopefully you have scrolled down to miss all the boring stuff)

ENGINE

DC Sports true dual

AMS lightweight pulleys

motordyne plenum spacer

platinum one step colder plugs

Uprev

AEM wideband air/fuel gauge

AEM boost gauge

AAM basic fuel return system

Deatchwerks 600cc injectors

walbro 255 fuel pump

Uprev GT MAF

Rutland motors catch tanks

Vortech V3 supercharger

3.12 vortech pulley

Timrod radius rod

3" Maf intake pipe

Treadstone 1245 intercooler

K&N big boy filter with Ash hoses for custom intake.

Kaaz 1.5 LSD

 

ICE

some head unit that adds weight, probably with one or two speakers in the rear.

 

INTERIOR

fire extinguisher

boot plastics removed

me

 

COMING SOON

 

Competition Clutch Stage 4, 6 puck sprung

Lightweight flywheel

BGW

Stardast + AMS front frenders and side skirts + JP vizage bumper and JDM rear with diffuser and smoked LED indicators

Ditch finders tyre lettering.

Red wheel nuts.

Alcantara and diamond padded leather doors.

SFL oil gauge in tarmac sports twin a pillar pod.

New wheels!

 

Built Motor;

Eagle rods

ACL bearings

ARP main studs

ARP L19 head bolts

Rev-up oil pump

Wisco custom Pistons 9.5;1 with coatings

Head gasket Cometic

Fluidampr crank pulley

Mishimoto hoses

Mishimoto radiator

Mishimoto fans

Mishimoto 1.3 bar carbon rad cap

Mishimoto oil sandwich plate

DC sports headers

Nismo thermostat

HKS twin spark

RC 1000cc injectors

Areomotive 340lph fuel pump

GReedy magnetic sump plug

Nismo balanced crankshaft.

Haltech platinum pro plugin ECU.

Jim Wolf Tech valve springs.

Kinetics Plenum (Modified by zmanalex)

Valve stem seals and new valve guides Ferrea

Water pump oem

Timing chain and guides oem

CJM fuel pump -6an adapter

Brian Crower intake/exhaust valves

JWT C2 camshafts

 

 

Probably other stuff I have forgotten about that has been thrown in the attic with the rest.

 

 

 

 

Here is my car parked in glasgow

wrongneighbourhood.jpg

Edited by evilscorp
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Started to install my AEM air/fuel gauge but ran out of time, will finish at the weekend.

Surprising how long it takes to poke a hole through a rubber gromet using long nose pliers! Also kept changing my mind where I wanted to route the cable, and since the seibon bonnet lets in water at the back I desided not to ruin the main gromet that is used for the engine wires and use the one at the front of the battery bay, just need to cable tie it round to the back then drop it down to the tranny (hehe) bracket that the original O2 sensors are hung off.IMG_20121025_121122.jpgIMG_20121025_121622.jpg

Its just hanging at the passenger footwell at the moment until I remove the centre console.

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Best route to run them :thumbs:

 

Are you planning on running 2 or just the 1?

At the moment just 1, the hdev decats only came with one spare bung for some reason, also not sure how gd condition the thread is in. I have two spare but dont want the hassle of removing the decats when i dont have access to a ramp.

 

Also going to try and mount the gauges where the jdm satnav/rear camera screen is,but not sure if i will have space for three in there(boost and the A/F gauges).

Edited by evilscorp
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Installed the O2 sensor and routed the wires up the original wiring loom and along the brake line and into the battery compartment.

It was all going smoothly and was happy with the placement of everything, went to wire up the power to the gauge and ....... nothing nowt zip!

Reconnected the tv screen that used the power wires and it worked fine, so ruled them out, then Keyser recommended I try the gauge directly against the battery and nowt!

So it is either a poor join in the supplied cables or the gauge is jiggered! waiting to test the cables on monday at work with a multimeter.

:rant:IMG_20121027_132531.jpgIMG_20121027_163327.jpg

Then had a go at cutting out a alu plate to fill the hole and mount the gauges in.

IMG_20121027_142916.jpg

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So after Keyser spotted I had been sent the wrong instructions, I wired up those spare 2 wires to a power source and my world lit up (well the gauge did)

I could have wired it up like the manual suggests but wasn't bothered with the needle re-zeroing after turning the ignition off so saved a bit of hassle by joining them all to an single ignition power source.

Bit gutted that the orange back light didn't match the oem gauges in the Z so just keeping it red.

IMG_20121028_160833.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Started to strip the car in prep.

IMG_20130112_124324_zpsd29e6f78.jpg

IMG_20130112_124521_zps0d257883.jpg

IMG_20130112_144203_zpsaef0c222.jpgIMG_20130112_150814_zps942858eb.jpgIMG_20130112_154545_zps5d1a1ccd.jpg

Then unfortunately I check my inbox to which I have a worried Chris saying the parcel tracking doesn't look good as there has been no movement since wed night. :scare: Hopefully I will eventually receive my supercharger, just having problems with plonkers the other side of the pond. :dry:

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Walbro 255 fuel pump install

pump carrier out

IMG_20130119_131646_zps024080b9.jpg

Uncliped all the electrical connectors so two halfs can come apart

IMG_20130119_132605_zpsfaba1c11.jpg

Filter was a little dirty, uncliped the plastic bracket that secures the old pump in place

IMG_20130119_133856_zps911408bd.jpg

IMG_20130119_134034_zps3102f690.jpg

pushed down on the electrical connector on top of the old pump to slide it out,took a bit of force.

IMG_20130119_134749_zpsc8bec12f.jpg

swap over the rubber seal at the top

IMG_20130119_134845_zpsd274a288.jpg

Remove the locking spring washer that keeps the filter on the pump

IMG_20130119_140025_zps03169950.jpg

sawed off the 3 tabs at the bottom of the pump

IMG_20130119_145829_zpsa4d9e40f.jpg

Then you can fit the cap back on (see picture to see which 3 tabs to saw off, you will maybe want to test fit before you attach the filter to the new pump)

IMG_20130119_151223_zps552ba41a.jpg

Then swapped over the plastic and rubber o-rings from the old pressure regulator

IMG_20130119_155217_zps99dc96ac.jpg

Drilled a hole using a 10mm drill(had to also file it larger as I didnt have any larger drill bits :dry: not much filing tho)

so I could fit the 90* AAM fuel return pipe that will eventually connect to the return line. (instructions were not great to find which way the plastic washer and rubber o-ring went, may have got this wrong but it seems a tight enough seal.)

IMG_20130119_172907_zps73917a1e.jpg

IMG_20130119_172919_zps92bf4ebf.jpg

Connected the top 90* pipe down to the replaced pressure reg which has a fitting on it

IMG_20130119_174818_zpseadf2d66.jpg

This was a nightmare to get off :rant: used a 1.8mm drill bit to increase the swirl jet size

IMG_20130119_181121_zps6f9aaf68.jpg

All back together, but had to problem solve, the two units would not compress. Noticed that one of the tabs on the pressure regulator cap was fouling against the swirl jet housing, just needed to pull the housing to the side to allow the units to compress properly.

IMG_20130119_182425_zps18c29795.jpg

Back in the tank

IMG_20130119_194745_zps8a12f7f1.jpg

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Before I start, wanted to say thanks to Keyser for the heads up on how much of a pain in the butt :rant: this job was.

Had a go at feeding the new fuel return line up from under the car beside the old fuel lines and to the new fitting on the walbro (fuel pump housing)

Spent 30mins looking at a 90* plastic cover that protects the fuel lines and carriers before it goes up past the fuel tank.

Couldnt find any pictures or info on the lines/clips etc in the manual and the cover had some rusted plates with square plastic blocks poking through.

Finally realised that under all the rust were some tabs to push in to remove the cover however one was so far up and out of reach it caused some frustration :lol:

Used a cable tie to feed some string down the uber tight path beside the other fuel lines then attached this to the end of the new hose fitting and with my dad in the car pulling the string and me pushing the hose we managed to get the hose up and over the tank, not a fun job when you barely have enough room to turn your head under the car(own fault should have used taller axle stands).

Managed to do all the hard work but have been stumped by the fuel line carrier/clamps, the three at the fuel tank were slightly loose and easily managed to pop off one of the oem lines so I could fit the new line in the carrier but the rest of the clamps are solid against the car and not quite sure the correct technique to get them off without breaking them????

Here's a pic of the hard bit I managed to do lines_zpsa30ce29d.jpg

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