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Clicking Axle Noise Solved - Try this first!!!!!


Mrdeli

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Just tried this evening but to no avail. Already had a 32mm socket but unfortunately it's not deep enough to cover the thread and get a grip on nut. Also went into Halfrauds to check out torque wrench but they start at £75 so will be looking for a garage in either the North East (leave on Thu morning) or Salisbury area.

 

Does the clicking cause any long term major damage? If so will I need to get it sorted ASAP (it's only just started)?

 

I did buy a 32mm deep socket, but one side wouldn't undo due to corrosion. Just took it to the closest garage, asked them to whip the wheel off and break the seal on the bolt, they then did it back up to torque then I drove home and undid it again myself to complete the job/ They even did it for free.

 

Just get a cheap-ish torque wrench if you're not a regular user of tools. Wont be 100% accurate but its close enough.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had this done a few weeks ago by a local garage and worked perfectly for me ... This forum is invaluable as always ...

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

 

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Going to be doing this on mine soon - what grease do people use? The Molykote M77 recommended in the TSB seems rather tricky to get hold of (as in, Nissan will only supply a £200+ tub of the stuff, and I can't find a UK seller that has any... neither can my local garage :unsure: )

 

As best as I can tell all that's really required is something that's water and heat resistant, so a gloopy marine grease would fit the bill. Or failing that some standard copper grease I guess. Just want to do it right first time out and not have to worry about it for a while, so recommendations would be welcome :)

Edited by sixdegrees
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Going to be doing this on mine soon - what grease do people use? The Molykote M77 recommended in the TSB seems rather tricky to get hold of (as in, Nissan will only supply a £200+ tub of the stuff, and I can't find a UK seller that has any... neither can my local garage :unsure: )

 

As best as I can tell all that's really required is something that's water and heat resistant, so a gloopy marine grease would fit the bill. Or failing that some standard copper grease I guess. Just want to do it right first time out and not have to worry about it for a while, so recommendations would be welcome :)

I used standard copper grease on mine. Worked a treat, I also used loctite thread locker on the main 32mm nut, as I found the nut kept working itself loose, therefore creating the clicking again. Been 6 months since I last completed it. Not heard anything since, hopefully that was some help.

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I used standard copper grease on mine. Worked a treat, I also used loctite thread locker on the main 32mm nut, as I found the nut kept working itself loose, therefore creating the clicking again. Been 6 months since I last completed it. Not heard anything since, hopefully that was some help.

 

 

Cheers, good tip on the loctite too :thumbs:

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  • 3 weeks later...

I was sceptical about this fix, firstly that it'd work and secondly that I would actually be able to complete the task myself.

 

Turned out, after many hours of labour, that I could do it and it fixed the clicking! :thumbs:

 

Bit of a result really and a cheap fix to boot. Also did my discs and pads while I was at it!

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  • 3 weeks later...

~OK so had my Zed just over 6 weeks and LOVING IT. Done a few little bits to her but last night managed to find some decent time to have a go at the clicking rear axle fix. Took my time and while the rears where off fitted my TORQEN 20mm spacers, rust gel treated the centre W under brace and sill jacking points ready for painting next weekend.

 

Drove the car to work this morning and YEAH no clicks from take off, very happy - well don that man.

 

TIP for those who have this still to do, 32mm hub nut loosen righ the way to the end of the thread so sitting flush. Impact socket on and three sharp shocks with the hammer was enough to free the hub off the splines.

 

david

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  • 1 month later...

Took my 08 HR to a local garage today to give it a once over and mentioned this to the guys there, they jacked the car up greased it up as per the first post in the thread (did both sides as they were there) and instantly solved the clicking problem.

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  • 1 month later...

Took my Zed into Nissan, they quoted £180 which seems ridiculous. This included replacing various bolts, why is this required? They mentioned clicking from inner *and* outer hub, confused.

I want to take the car to my trusted independant to get this done, anything I need to tell them regarding Nissan's comments that the inner and outer hubs are clicking? Is it the same process but on both ends of the driveshaft? Also, why do Nissan replace the bolts?

 

Cheers

Edited by SeeNoWeevil
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  • 2 months later...

Does anyone local to Watford/Harrow have the tools to do this, obviously everything involves risk when doing these things, i would do it myself if I had the tools, i.E Torque Wrench and Grease. Ive been quoted £100 total for both sides and 2 hours labour by a well known indy. This takes an hour right? Maybe I can do this elsewhere then just go to the garage and sort another suspension issue. Problem is most garages dont throw things in. they want to charge an hour for each problem even though it takes 15 mins etc with minimal priced parts....

Edited by GranTurismoEra
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Does anyone local to Watford/Harrow have the tools to do this, obviously everything involves risk when doing these things, i would do it myself if I had the tools, i.E Torque Wrench and Grease. Ive been quoted £100 total for both sides and 2 hours labour by a well known indy. This takes an hour right? Maybe I can do this elsewhere then just go to the garage and sort another suspension issue. Problem is most garages dont throw things in. they want to charge an hour for each problem even though it takes 15 mins etc with minimal priced parts....

if you don't mind driving 60 miles we can get these sorted for you at F.O.C with any service or £30 without service ;)

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if you don't mind driving 60 miles we can get these sorted for you at F.O.C with any service or £30 without service ;)

 

This is a good deal!

 

Type of grease makes a difference; I imagine Sly will use appropriate grease.

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Does anyone local to Watford/Harrow have the tools to do this, obviously everything involves risk when doing these things, i would do it myself if I had the tools, i.E Torque Wrench and Grease. Ive been quoted £100 total for both sides and 2 hours labour by a well known indy. This takes an hour right? Maybe I can do this elsewhere then just go to the garage and sort another suspension issue. Problem is most garages dont throw things in. they want to charge an hour for each problem even though it takes 15 mins etc with minimal priced parts....

if you don't mind driving 60 miles we can get these sorted for you at F.O.C with any service or £30 without service ;)

 

im based in Northolt, are you in Kent? its a good deal for sure, how much with gearbox oil change with the famous molyslip thrown in, just need a saturday free, im on 85,000 and major service is at 90,000,

 

What/where is F.O.C

Edited by GranTurismoEra
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

This fix was done by previous owner but soon after I bought it the clicking started, and sounded like a bag of nails when negotiating speed humps, manoeuvring etc.

 

Anyway, I removed the drive shafts, I could see that copper grease had been used. Cleaned it all up but applied Lucas Oil x-tra heavy duty grease.

 

Clicking / rattling noises now gone, really pleased as it did sound awful and was getting on my nerves!

 

Tips for anyone doing this... 1) don't use copper grease 2) you can buy a 32mm deep socket for £2 from b&q 3) I used the handle from my old car jack as a breaker bar.

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