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How To - Adjust Clutch Pedal


D4XNY

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So i have been fine tuning the clutch pedal on my 2005 Z and although i have the bite point set about right for me i am now finding the pedal does not return back up to its rest position.

 

In some respects I do not find this a problem as there is too much travel between the point the clutch starts to disengage and the fully up rest position.

 

As it does not feel like there is much resistance in the first inch of pedal movement would it be ok to move the 'clutch pedal released' push button switch further in and use it as a pedal release stop and reduce the travel

 

or is there another way to change this

 

thanks

 

 

ps

 

the dipstick is just mental

 

I found this also ... the first 1 inch maybe even more was just 'free-play' on my clutch pedal, felt like I was kneeing myself in the chin before I made both of my adjustments (wife couldn't even drive the car)!!! Adjust the microswitch with a 14mm spaner to loosen the locknut and screw it abit for the desired outcome. This switch also acts as the 'stop' for the clutch pedal :)

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So i have been fine tuning the clutch pedal on my 2005 Z and although i have the bite point set about right for me i am now finding the pedal does not return back up to its rest position.

 

In some respects I do not find this a problem as there is too much travel between the point the clutch starts to disengage and the fully up rest position.

 

As it does not feel like there is much resistance in the first inch of pedal movement would it be ok to move the 'clutch pedal released' push button switch further in and use it as a pedal release stop and reduce the travel

 

or is there another way to change this

 

thanks

 

 

ps

 

the dipstick is just mental

 

I found this also ... the first 1 inch maybe even more was just 'free-play' on my clutch pedal, felt like I was kneeing myself in the chin before I made both of my adjustments (wife couldn't even drive the car)!!! Adjust the microswitch with a 14mm spaner to loosen the locknut and screw it abit for the desired outcome. This switch also acts as the 'stop' for the clutch pedal :)

 

you have to be careful if you are using the micro switch to stop the pedal returning to its full rest position

 

I have read it can cause problems with the slave cylinder if the master cylinder is not allowed to return to its fully rested position.

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I have now removed my clutch assist spring which is an easy mod, this has allowed me to drop my pedal even further down (still making sure the clutch fully engages) and the pedal will return to its fully rested position

 

This a lot lower and in a perfect position for me and It also gives you a much better feel for the clutch points

 

the down side is a heavy clutch pedal.

 

I am now thinking of either putting on a lighter spring to lighten the pedal a bit of maybe putting in a small bracket to move the spring slightly maybe giving a different feel.

 

probably will go for a lighter spring first

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  • 3 weeks later...

Can anyone help with this? Been adjusted and bit point is right at bottom but I'm left with this noise when fully releasing the clutch pedal, sounds like it's knocking on summit? Anyone else got this or any way or fixing it?

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I have now removed my clutch assist spring which is an easy mod, this has allowed me to drop my pedal even further down (still making sure the clutch fully engages) and the pedal will return to its fully rested position

 

This a lot lower and in a perfect position for me and It also gives you a much better feel for the clutch points

 

the down side is a heavy clutch pedal.

 

I am now thinking of either putting on a lighter spring to lighten the pedal a bit of maybe putting in a small bracket to move the spring slightly maybe giving a different feel.

 

probably will go for a lighter spring first

 

 

Its not actually the spring that causes the heavy clutch, but the clutch itself, the reason its so heavy is because the pedal fulcrum point is incorrect (see my post about modifying this earlier in this thread)

Another reason why people have so much trouble getting the adjustment correct is because they don't realise that the clutch start switch adjustment acts a s the clutch stop, and so influences the clutch pedal adjustment.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

I just tried to this mod and after a bit of swearing a sore shoulder I'm not able to do it :cry: I can't even budge the lock nut. :surrender: It's too cramped in their for my skinny but lanky frame and my heads to big :lol:

 

Is anyone within about 50 miles or so of the West Midlands willing to do this for me? I would drive to your house and pay you well for your time :thumbs:

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Don't try the arse on seat, feet around headrest approach...I found that fkn impossible...just open the door wide n lie over the sill...did u try jamming a screwdriver in the u shaped bracket before loosening the locknut?...that's the easy part-turning the bolt a mm at a time's the real bastard!!!..after that u just drop the ecu to gain access to the cruise switch adjustment...good luck

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Thanks for the tips. It was raining heavy yesterday so I couldn't open the door but I will try that next time. I didn't jam a screwdriver in but I will do that too.

 

I've ordered some much better long nose pliers, the ones I had before were worn non-branded needle pliers so I don't think they would have been up for the job anyway. I also ordered a 12mm stubby spanner to see if I can get a bit more leverage on the lock nut.

 

I'll take my laptop and webcam so I use that to see how far the bolt and nut have moved, rather than trying to squeeze my big head all the way in :lol:

 

I'll try my best :boxing:

Edited by leet8845
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That was much easier with the right tools. I still found the lock nut quite hard to budge but with my stubby spanner I was able to get plenty of torque and get it in one.

 

I found the sliver spindle thing easy to move. You can only move it a bit a time but mine moved without much effort compared to locking nut. I used vise-grip pliers, sure they helped.

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My only gripe with it now is that the clutch flicks a bit when it reaches the top when I pull off and makes a bit of thud.

 

When I move it by hand I can see it's happening when the spring stops contracting and then starts to pivot at it's base, then the clutch hits the stop which makes the thud sound I hear.

 

Can I remove the spring? If so, is there a DIY? I can't see how to remove the bolts that hold it in. If I can't remove the spring, should I adjust the pedal up or down further?

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So I moved the pedal down further, adjusted the sensor all the way out and even had to stick a piece of rubber on still to activate the cruise control. The pedal is now much lower than the brake, probably level with the accelerator. It doesn't come out far enough for the spring to reach it's pivot point to I no longer have the 'thud' issue.

 

It's almost perfect but I have jolted a couple of times changing into 2nd and I have to put my foot more firmly on the pedal else it sometimes wont go into gear. Other than that it's great, quick shifting is really smooth and fast at speed and high revs. Just need to see if I can get used to bringing my foot up really slow when in the lower gear changes to stop it jolting. I can always adjust the pedal a bit higher. I'll see how I get on but loving the change regardless.

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Ok,I adjusted again. 3 threads showing now instead of 4 and I removed the rubber piece but left the sensor adjusted all the way out.

 

It's perfect now, I can finally drive the Z without thinking about bringing the clutch up slowly and having the right revs to ensure smooth driving. I can just drive normally and it's smooth :)

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Ok,I adjusted again. 3 threads showing now instead of 4 and I removed the rubber piece but left the sensor adjusted all the way out.

 

It's perfect now, I can finally drive the Z without thinking about bringing the clutch up slowly and having the right revs to ensure smooth driving. I can just drive normally and it's smooth :)

 

:thumbs: it's not an easy job and a small adjustment makes a big difference to the feel

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  • 3 weeks later...

The trouble is, when you reduce the biting point it makes the thud worse.

 

I never had it until i lowered the pedal then it started. I raised the pedal more until it stopped. The more you raise the pedal, the more force it has to push back out to original position. When you reduce you force by lowering the pedal, the thud can start, at least that's how it did for me.

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  • 3 months later...

I carried out the clutch pedal adjustment yesterday but I think I've overdone it! Now the clutch engages/bite point engages almost instantly from removing the pedal off the floor (which I like) but I am scared that the clutch may still be engaged even when depressed and therefore riding the clutch due it not completely releasing. However upon test driving the Zed, it didn't seem as though the clutch was riding when changing gears. There is now very little travel between the clutch pedal being depressed and being released. As soon as the bite point has engaged, the pedal has already reached the fully released position which makes me think the clutch is still engaged when I've taken my foot off the clutch.

 

Another issue I've experienced is the fact that the pedal keeps sticking and requires manually pulling back up again to return back to fully released position. Upon test driving, this didn't seem to be an issue as it's sticking past the full clutch release point, but I may be incorrect.

 

Do you have any ideas of what I could use as a spacer to plug the gap between the cruise control sensor and the bolt? Do you think a block of rubber (pencil rubber) and super glue will be sufficient over the long term?

 

This DIY was the most painful and frustrating I have experienced on a car by far! Haha!

 

Photos of the current pedal adjustment and the resulting cruise control sensor gap are below:

 

20150225_162936_zpsvrbibn9a.jpg

 

20150225_162828_zpsva3tdrxx.jpg

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