SMALL BUT VERY IMPORTANT PERFORMANCE UPGRADE

[Ian]

Mine is the same as yours, it only happens when pulling away.

 

I just assumed it was the drop links because it has only happened since I fitted the cusco roll bars

[rtbiscuit]

Mine is the same as yours, it only happens when pulling away.

 

I just assumed it was the drop links because it has only happened since I fitted the cusco roll bars

 

mines only 23,000 on the clock, and no suspension mods, are the originals really that crap that they'd wear out by that mileage?

[marzman]

i keep putting it off,

 

does it sound like a likely cause of the problem?

 

any tests i can do to check?

 

i may just get the standard nissan ones for £27 a pair and test, not an expensive out lay if wrong i suppose.

 

Think thats an each price mate.

 

The clicking rear axle sounds like you're driving over broken glass or gravel when driving at very low speed... this problem is mostly when reversing at low speed, often going up a slight hill or down (i.e. not flat), and while it does click, its a lot more of a creaking sound this.

[rtbiscuit]

i keep putting it off,

 

does it sound like a likely cause of the problem?

 

any tests i can do to check?

 

i may just get the standard nissan ones for £27 a pair and test, not an expensive out lay if wrong i suppose.

 

Think thats an each price mate.

 

The clicking rear axle sounds like you're driving over broken glass or gravel when driving at very low speed... this problem is mostly when reversing at low speed, often going up a slight hill or down (i.e. not flat), and while it does click, its a lot more of a creaking sound this.

 

i don't have any of that, mine is a very distinctive Click Click as i drive off, and also change gear, and its inline with the movment of the car as the weight shifts from front to back on power transfer during gear change. and normally only 2 clicks as the car rocks forward and then back during gear change.

[Ian]

i keep putting it off,

 

does it sound like a likely cause of the problem?

 

any tests i can do to check?

 

i may just get the standard nissan ones for £27 a pair and test, not an expensive out lay if wrong i suppose.

 

Think thats an each price mate.

 

The clicking rear axle sounds like you're driving over broken glass or gravel when driving at very low speed... this problem is mostly when reversing at low speed, often going up a slight hill or down (i.e. not flat), and while it does click, its a lot more of a creaking sound this.

 

i don't have any of that, mine is a very distinctive Click Click as i drive off, and also change gear, and its inline with the movment of the car as the weight shifts from front to back on power transfer during gear change. and normally only 2 clicks as the car rocks forward and then back during gear change.

 

Thats exactly what I get, 2 clicks when pulling off.

 

I've never heared it during gear changes though

[marzman]

Thats clicky rear axles then guys... definitely not the creaky drop links.

 

...I should know, my car does both

[ZMANALEX]

Thats clicky rear axles then guys... definitely not the creaky drop links.

 

...I should know, my car does both

 

Retail price from Nissan for OEM Drop Links:

 

Front: £37.81 each including vat.

 

Rear £32.30 each including vat.

 

 

 

Adjustable Drop Links and Clicky axle fix available below:

 

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=27406

 

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=21691

 

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=21842

[taras]

Nice drop links.

Apart from drop links, how does the stock ARB hold up along with the rubber bushes once you've uprated the links?

[ZMANALEX]

Nice drop links.

Apart from drop links, how does the stock ARB hold up along with the rubber bushes once you've uprated the links?

 

They hold up considerably well but most of the guys who swop out there coil overs change the ARBs as well.

[ZMANALEX]

Bump

[sinbad]

OEM droplinks will be more than adequate when on oem suspension and also with lowered suspension.

 

Its only when the Anti-Roll Bar is changed do you need to consider different drop links due to the increased torsion/forces through the bar. I would have thought these would have been provided as a "kit" when you purchase the anti roll bar?

OEM drop links have rubber bushes on them and over time the rubber will perish as do other bushes on the car. If your still on the standard suspension then replacing the droplinks for new OEM ones is probably worth while as you reach quite high mileage.

Only when you've replaced the Anti roll/sway bars would i consider changing from oem drop links to the heavy duty ones due to increased NVH. Whiteline also offer spherical bearing drop links at a similar price to the heavy duty ones which would probably be better for people who track their cars.

 

My advice would be not to go changing your drop links unless you've thought about the use it gets and inspected the condition of your current one.

[Adam@Z1auto.com]

OEM droplinks will be more than adequate when on oem suspension and also with lowered suspension.

 

Its only when the Anti-Roll Bar is changed do you need to consider different drop links due to the increased torsion/forces through the bar. I would have thought these would have been provided as a "kit" when you purchase the anti roll bar?

OEM drop links have rubber bushes on them and over time the rubber will perish as do other bushes on the car. If your still on the standard suspension then replacing the droplinks for new OEM ones is probably worth while as you reach quite high mileage.

Only when you've replaced the Anti roll/sway bars would i consider changing from oem drop links to the heavy duty ones due to increased NVH. Whiteline also offer spherical bearing drop links at a similar price to the heavy duty ones which would probably be better for people who track their cars.

 

My advice would be not to go changing your drop links unless you've thought about the use it gets and inspected the condition of your current one.

 

that's actually not the case at all

 

on my OEM swaybars, I bent a stock endlink while at a track day. Replaced it, and the corresponding side, with new OEM ones. Within 6 months, they were making noise, because the stock "stud" has minimal amounts of articulation to them. I changed them out for aftermarket units, and did new sways (the Whitelines, ironically). Within a few months, those aftermarket ones were making noise too, because they were an open bearing design. That is when we began development work on our own. During that process, we came across the Powergrid ones, and became their exclusive distributor for North America for the 350Z. They have now been on my car for about 2 years, and zero issues. There are countless examples on the US boards about people with nearly stock suspension having issues with stock endlinks as well...it's just one of those parts that doesn't last, much like the inner control arm bushings. Once they were replaced with our Powergrid ones, that was the last time they had to touch it. These are the same links being used on countless full out race cars here in the states on Mustangs, Porsche's, and several other platforms. They have zero noise, and tremendous amounts of articulation, which lets the swaybar actually work and do the job it is designed to do.

[sinbad]

that's actually not the case at all

 

on my OEM swaybars, I bent a stock endlink while at a track day. Replaced it, and the corresponding side, with new OEM ones. Within 6 months, they were making noise, because the stock "stud" has minimal amounts of articulation to them. I changed them out for aftermarket units, and did new sways (the Whitelines, ironically). Within a few months, those aftermarket ones were making noise too, because they were an open bearing design. That is when we began development work on our own. During that process, we came across the Powergrid ones, and became their exclusive distributor for North America for the 350Z. They have now been on my car for about 2 years, and zero issues. There are countless examples on the US boards about people with nearly stock suspension having issues with stock endlinks as well...it's just one of those parts that doesn't last, much like the inner control arm bushings. Once they were replaced with our Powergrid ones, that was the last time they had to touch it. These are the same links being used on countless full out race cars here in the states on Mustangs, Porsche's, and several other platforms. They have zero noise, and tremendous amounts of articulation, which lets the swaybar actually work and do the job it is designed to do.

 

The OEM droplinks should be more than adequate. What other mods were on your car? Where you using Semi slicks?

You would only need more articulation/movement in the droplink if your were putting it under extreme load it wasnt designed for. Open Bearing designed ones should also be perfectly fine for what their designed for, however they would require more maintenance to keep them clean and well lubed. Something which i mentioned should only be considered if your tracking your car and if your doing that you would strip your suspension down often anyway. The open bearing ones would be alittle extreme, but if im honest i'd imagine them being better for "racing use" due to the direct nature they will transfer the load.

 

Im not saying the Powergrid ones are bad, in fact they look very good. But the fact is, for majority of people on here that use their cars on the public road they probably havn't had a problem with the OEM droplinks and could if they wanted replace 3-4 of them before the cost of a Powergrid ones (only 2 bolts to replace them too). Now the powergrid droplinks aren't a fit and forget item as just like the OEM droplinks they have a rubber bush which WILL perish over time. Obviously they'll last a while but so should the OEM droplinks.

 

My 350z had done over 60k miles IIRC and i never had one problem with the droplinks. If what you say is true, either the user's are putting them under extreme load, (hitting curbs on track, potholes) etc.. or Nissan have badly designed what is in essence a simple item. Your right in the fact that they do break, in fact my current car is prone for it, but if they break every 2 years im happy paying the £37 or less to have it replaced which does its job perfectly well.

If they've broke or the car has high mileage then it may be worth considering swapping to the Powerdgrid/similar ones, but certainly not if the bushes are fine and their in good condtion.

 

Dont fix what isnt broke. All in my humble opinion of course

[Adam@Z1auto.com]

that's actually not the case at all

 

on my OEM swaybars, I bent a stock endlink while at a track day. Replaced it, and the corresponding side, with new OEM ones. Within 6 months, they were making noise, because the stock "stud" has minimal amounts of articulation to them. I changed them out for aftermarket units, and did new sways (the Whitelines, ironically). Within a few months, those aftermarket ones were making noise too, because they were an open bearing design. That is when we began development work on our own. During that process, we came across the Powergrid ones, and became their exclusive distributor for North America for the 350Z. They have now been on my car for about 2 years, and zero issues. There are countless examples on the US boards about people with nearly stock suspension having issues with stock endlinks as well...it's just one of those parts that doesn't last, much like the inner control arm bushings. Once they were replaced with our Powergrid ones, that was the last time they had to touch it. These are the same links being used on countless full out race cars here in the states on Mustangs, Porsche's, and several other platforms. They have zero noise, and tremendous amounts of articulation, which lets the swaybar actually work and do the job it is designed to do.

 

The OEM droplinks should be more than adequate. What other mods were on your car? Where you using Semi slicks?

You would only need more articulation/movement in the droplink if your were putting it under extreme load it wasnt designed for. Open Bearing designed ones should also be perfectly fine for what their designed for, however they would require more maintenance to keep them clean and well lubed. Something which i mentioned should only be considered if your tracking your car and if your doing that you would strip your suspension down often anyway. The open bearing ones would be alittle extreme, but if im honest i'd imagine them being better for "racing use" due to the direct nature they will transfer the load.

 

Im not saying the Powergrid ones are bad, in fact they look very good. But the fact is, for majority of people on here that use their cars on the public road they probably havn't had a problem with the OEM droplinks and could if they wanted replace 3-4 of them before the cost of a Powergrid ones (only 2 bolts to replace them too). Now the powergrid droplinks aren't a fit and forget item as just like the OEM droplinks they have a rubber bush which WILL perish over time. Obviously they'll last a while but so should the OEM droplinks.

 

My 350z had done over 60k miles IIRC and i never had one problem with the droplinks. If what you say is true, either the user's are putting them under extreme load, (hitting curbs on track, potholes) etc.. or Nissan have badly designed what is in essence a simple item. Your right in the fact that they do break, in fact my current car is prone for it, but if they break every 2 years im happy paying the £37 or less to have it replaced which does its job perfectly well.

If they've broke or the car has high mileage then it may be worth considering swapping to the Powerdgrid/similar ones, but certainly not if the bushes are fine and their in good condtion.

 

Dont fix what isnt broke. All in my humble opinion of course

 

When the first endlink bent - nothing suspension wise but a set of RSR springs (.7 inch drop, very mild rates), and I was using Potenza S03's at the time. As I upgraded the suspension, the need for proper endlinks became even more apparant. Now with a fully sorted suspension, the ability to adjust swaybar preload comes in very handy. Articulation is critical because that is what allows the swaybar to work If your bar is being limited by your endlink, that is not a good thing...your endlink capability needs to exceed the bar, not the other way around.

 

The open bearing ones are fine I suppose for a full race car, but at what benefit? The Powergrids are a motorsport level part, totally sealed from the elements, maintenance free, and have more articulation than the open bearing units out there. Internally they are a ball bearing socket, housed in a die cast outer shell. The inner shell is polished with the same process as the bearing itself so it is friction-free, and moves as well at full ariticulation as it does at minimal articulation. It's a win-win all around, and they do not need any special attention once fitted. The founder of the company has been a motorsport engineer for the last 25 years, and has a CV that is quite impressive. He was also involved in suspension development on the new-er GT40 while with Ford.

 

You can read some technical info here:

 

http://www.powergridinc.com/tech.asp

 

The Powergrid have no rubber bushing at all, not sure where you got that idea. The only rubber is the boot. In 2 years, mine has never had any issues, nor have I had to replace any of them for the hundreds upon hundreds of those who have purchased them. We specifically sought out the better mousetrap due to the issues I had with my car. We tested them on my car for track days and daily use for 6 months before we offered them for sale. I have no interest in offer a product I would not use myself - it's not worth the time. When we announced them, it became apparant from many other 350Z customers here that they had similar issues, and were also looking for a solution.

 

Sure, you can buy the OEM ones 3 or 4 times, but to what end? When I have the time to work on my car, and when I spend any amount of money on it I strictly want the final solution. I am not interested in bandaids that I know will fail at some point. For some, that might work fine, it is all up to the end user. Time is valuable, and while I love my car, I've got other priorities in my life too - so I'd rather spend a bit more and have one less part to worry about. If all you do is normal commuting, etc, then stock everything should last for a long time - there really is little need to mod any aspect of the car for that. In addition to normal day to day use, my weekends consist of aggressive street use, and previously, track days, so I needed something that would support all those uses and not give up the ghost.

[andlid]

Happy reading, cheers guys for the interesting input!

[sinbad]

Adam - You seem to be bigging up Powergrids product again? I'll repeat what i said before "Im not saying the Powergrid ones are bad, in fact they look very good."

I dont disagree with the majority of what you said, most of it your just stating facts. And im not trying to say the Powergrid links are bad as they actually look good and would be an improvement over OEM. (i'll check your link when i get time) i think their a very good alternative choice. With regards to articulation you'll only need more if its being put under a load that the oem droplink wasnt designed for. The oem bar wont be limited by the oem droplinks unless another suspension component has been changed (i.e. roll bar). And therefore my statement in which you disagreed with

""My advice would be not to go changing your drop links unless you've thought about the use it gets and inspected the condition of your current one."" Still stands. Why replace the droplink when for 60k miles its been fine and still is?

 

 

As regards to the following statement:

Sure, you can buy the OEM ones 3 or 4 times, but to what end? When I have the time to work on my car, and when I spend any amount of money on it I strictly want the final solution. I am not interested in bandaids that I know will fail at some point. For some, that might work fine, it is all up to the end user. Time is valuable, and while I love my car, I've got other priorities in my life too - so I'd rather spend a bit more and have one less part to worry about. If all you do is normal commuting, etc, then stock everything should last for a long time - there really is little need to mod any aspect of the car for that. In addition to normal day to day use, my weekends consist of aggressive street use, and previously, track days, so I needed something that would support all those uses and not give up the ghost.

 

Im not sure if your agreeing with my point or not

However not everyone's like you. You've modified yours quite extensiveley and take it on track, so again this goes back to my point which you disagreed with in that you need to consider the use it gets and inspect the condition of your current one.

If your saying that time is valuable which im sure everyones is, why go changing a perfectly good droplink for another perfectly good droplink?

 

Another question is. If my suspension is standard, i have a nice set of lightweight wheels and a popcharger, i use my car on the motorway to work and back with the occasion blast down the country road. What benefit will i have replacing a good healthy droplink for a powergrid one? What benefits will i get that will outweight my valuable time and lighter pocket?

[Adam@Z1auto.com]

Adam - You seem to be bigging up Powergrids product again? I'll repeat what i said before "Im not saying the Powergrid ones are bad, in fact they look very good."

I dont disagree with the majority of what you said, most of it your just stating facts. And im not trying to say the Powergrid links are bad as they actually look good and would be an improvement over OEM. (i'll check your link when i get time) i think their a very good alternative choice. With regards to articulation you'll only need more if its being put under a load that the oem droplink wasnt designed for. The oem bar wont be limited by the oem droplinks unless another suspension component has been changed (i.e. roll bar). And therefore my statement in which you disagreed with

""My advice would be not to go changing your drop links unless you've thought about the use it gets and inspected the condition of your current one."" Still stands. Why replace the droplink when for 60k miles its been fine and still is?

 

 

As regards to the following statement:

Sure, you can buy the OEM ones 3 or 4 times, but to what end? When I have the time to work on my car, and when I spend any amount of money on it I strictly want the final solution. I am not interested in bandaids that I know will fail at some point. For some, that might work fine, it is all up to the end user. Time is valuable, and while I love my car, I've got other priorities in my life too - so I'd rather spend a bit more and have one less part to worry about. If all you do is normal commuting, etc, then stock everything should last for a long time - there really is little need to mod any aspect of the car for that. In addition to normal day to day use, my weekends consist of aggressive street use, and previously, track days, so I needed something that would support all those uses and not give up the ghost.

 

Im not sure if your agreeing with my point or not

However not everyone's like you. You've modified yours quite extensiveley and take it on track, so again this goes back to my point which you disagreed with in that you need to consider the use it gets and inspect the condition of your current one.

If your saying that time is valuable which im sure everyones is, why go changing a perfectly good droplink for another perfectly good droplink?

 

Another question is. If my suspension is standard, i have a nice set of lightweight wheels and a popcharger, i use my car on the motorway to work and back with the occasion blast down the country road. What benefit will i have replacing a good healthy droplink for a powergrid one? What benefits will i get that will outweight my valuable time and lighter pocket?

 

Well, my disagreement stems from your assertion that stock links are somehow adequete for stock bars, or even a lowered car. While they should be, our experience is, they are not. Much in the same way that the stock exhaust is prone to rusting at the rear section, and how the interior plastic is prone to scratching. My opinion, from years spent around these cars (not just my own) is they are prone to failure, even on completely stock cars. There are very few faults with these cars IMHO - but the front bushings, and endlinks are one of those niggling areas that need attention. If I was writing a buyers guide for a 350Z, it would be at the top of the list of things that are common issues. As the cars get older, we keep seeing these same issues rear their ugly head time and time again. My own car has not even done 55k miles yet, and is a 2004, and each of these areas has gone bad, and in the case of the endlinks, more than once. Yes, I do track days with it, but the majority of the miles is street driving. On my own car, as mentioned, I bent one rear stock link once (passenger side rear - no slicks, not even r compounds, and my car has never hit any stationary object), and then the replacements began making noise within a few months time..all before I ever swapped to my Cusco sways. The stock endlink is a known issue on these cars when they are put through their paces, even with standard swaybars.

 

Obviously if the stock links are fine, you could well go on using them. My post is only with respect to when they do go bad, there are ways to solve the issue permenantly, at a similar cost to OEM, with many added benefits.

[ZMANALEX]

Got to say that I am 100% with Adam on this one.

 

The links are a well known and documented weakspot on the Zed and the point that Adam is making is that if you do have a failure then it is well worth considering upgrading to the PowerGrid adjustable ones even if you only use the car for normal road driving as once you have upgraded then you will never need to look at them again.

 

They really do come into there own once you have fitted coil overs and upgraded your sway bars and the benefits on track when set up properly are very noticable.

 

Ask anyone who has sat beside me on a track day how well my 600 bhp Zed handles.

 

I have sold many sets of these and not had one negative comment, okay they are not the cheapest on the market, but the best never is but it is money very well spent indeed and they would also be in my top three of must have upgrades.

 

Alex.

[sinbad]

So what your saying is, that people who have perfectly good drop links should go out and buy something you both sell? ok...

 

If that was the case, everyone should get rid of their tyres and buy a set of AO48's because their better, or a set of Penske/Quantum/Ohlins suspension even when their oem suspension is fine just because their better.

 

 

No one is questioning the durability of the powergrid, you may have sold loads of sets and thats good!

 

However you have even both admitted to going on track and even having a 600bhp engine which would in my eyes dictate the need for an uprated link. The forces that will be acting on the link will obviously be greater than its design.

 

 

Adam you finally get my point However at a similar cost to OEM, im not so sure.

Obviously if the stock links are fine, you could well go on using them. My post is only with respect to when they do go bad, there are ways to solve the issue permenantly, at a similar cost to OEM, with many added benefits.

[ZMANALEX]

So what your saying is, that people who have perfectly good drop links should go out and buy something you both sell?

 

 

No, we are not saying that, try reading the posts again

[Adam@Z1auto.com]

So what your saying is, that people who have perfectly good drop links should go out and buy something you both sell? ok...

 

obviously that is not what I am saying, as you quoted below

 

Adam you finally get my point However at a similar cost to OEM, im not so sure.

Obviously if the stock links are fine, you could well go on using them. My post is only with respect to when they do go bad, there are ways to solve the issue permenantly, at a similar cost to OEM, with many added benefits.

 

look up the cost of new OEM endlink set and compare it to the Powergrid

 

From Alex:

 

Retail price from Nissan for OEM Drop Links:

 

Front: £37.81 each including vat.

 

Rear £32.30 each including vat

 

that makes a set ~$235($US)...for something that is prone towards wearing. Cheaper, yes. But a better deal? In the eye of the beholder I guess - the better deal is not always dictated by price.

[Husky]

when you buy anything for the car its a toss up between cost and quality/performance. if its merely a commuting car, judgiung from the info, i dont think id bother with these links. however also judging by this info if you intend to push the car OR you like having a top notch piece of kit OR you have other mods that require them then these links are for you. i dont see anything more complicated than that.

[Vik54]

when you buy anything for the car its a toss up between cost and quality/performance. if its merely a commuting car, judgiung from the info, i dont think id bother with these links. however also judging by this info if you intend to push the car OR you like having a top notch piece of kit OR you have other mods that require them then these links are for you. i dont see anything more complicated than that.

 

Nice one John we shall now call you 'Diplomacy Dawg'

[Adam@Z1auto.com]

when you buy anything for the car its a toss up between cost and quality/performance. if its merely a commuting car, judgiung from the info, i dont think id bother with these links. however also judging by this info if you intend to push the car OR you like having a top notch piece of kit OR you have other mods that require them then these links are for you. i dont see anything more complicated than that.

 

could not agree more

[ZMANALEX]

Still available, in stock, good to go at 2009 prices.