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The difficulties of upgrading the factory Bose and how I'm going to solve them


Loki

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The Zed is a great car but it's not perfect and after the newness wears off, there are those little things that begin to annoy you, for me the Bose sound system was quite near the top of the list. I'm sure it was great at the time but 16 years later it's almost stone age technology, I'd long forgotten about CD skip in these digital times, didn't enjoy the reunion so it had to go. So if you'd like to add Bluetooth, USB and hands free calls to your motor your going to need a new head unit. 

 

I am going to go through the entire process of replacing the entire system but I'll start with the easiest part, replacing the head unit. This is the only part that can be swapped out with minimum fuss and no compatibility issues, you can use either double din or single din with a spacer.

 

This video shows how to open up the centre console allowing for access to the head unit, not a fan of the guys making the video but I'll put it this way, seeing them manage to do it gave me the confidence it's easy enough.

 

Top tip* Use a little BluTak on the end of the screwdriver with some of the deeper set screws.

 

 

You will also need a adapter to connect the head unit loom to the cars factory connectors, those who have steering wheel controls will need to buy one specifically for that purpose;

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CTSNS016-2-Steering-Wheel-Stalk-Control-Adaptor-Patch-for-Nissan-Navara-06-14/351713654720?epid=5019807184&hash=item51e3c477c0:g:thcAAOSwFV1bBUGw

 

(PLEASE NOTE IMPORTANT INSTALLATION NOTE: BOSE REMOTE TRIGGER WIRE FOR 350Z, Nissan 350Z Remote Wire / Purple With Red Tracer, Vehicles Fitted With BOSE Amplifier Require a Manual Connection To This Wire From Remote Output Wire From Stereo Wiring Harness.
This will Trigger The Amp To Turn On When Your New Stereo Turns On.)

 

It's made by a British company called Connect2, I dealt with their technical support before and they are brilliant, helping me with my previous projects.

 

Lastly you will need a fascia plate, the factory stereo is larger than the Din's standard and needs a surround to make them fit, these are cheap enough;

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CT24NS19-For-A-Nissan-350z-03-05-Car-Stereo-Radio-Double-Din-Fascia-Plate-Panel/252029084467

 

And it as easy as that, you will end up with quite a lot of wires behind the head unit, so try and space the out harness and connectors out a little, use the height of the space, the first time I did this the centre console developed a squeak due to poor fitting, annoyed the hell out of me till I took it apart again and fixed it. Also the trickiest part of the install for me was AC module, disconnecting and reconnecting that little pain in the arse was really frustrating. 

 

Top Tip* Be careful because not only does it control the AC it also controls the dash, dials, fuel lights and warning lights.

 

 

 

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Edited by Loki
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If your reading this you've most likely realised that upgrading the head unit isn't enough, your still left with those tired thrashed 16 year speakers farting their way through your favorite basslines. Prepare yourself, because from here on in it's not good news.

 

Essentially we're at the impedance crossroads, 2 Ohms or 4 Ohms? What's the difference? How will it affect this install?

 

2 Ohm are slightly louder, slightly more bass but are more expensive and have lower sound quality.

4 Ohms are about 2.5db quieter at the same wattage, less powerful but better defined bass, most common speaker type and have best over all sound quality.

 

*Never mix 2 & 4 Ohms equipment, the amplifier will overheat, at best it'll shutdown, at worst it'll burn your car out* 

 

With this upgrade the 2 or 4 Ohms question is especially important because the entire factory Bose system is 2 Ohm's both amplifiers and speakers.

 

So say we try the 2 Ohm route, you can swap out the factory speakers for new ones and you might get slightly louder sound, it wouldn't be a huge step up for what you have now either, but it is the easiest way to upgrade a Zed. If you go for this method then all power to you but is ease really more important than sound clarity?

 

As you may have guessed, I've decided to go with 4 Ohms and well, it didn't take long to realise how big a job it's going to be. As I said you can't mix Ohms so everything has to be 4 Ohms, you can't use any part from the Bose set up including the wires, yes your going to have to take it out and rewire the entire system. That means running power from the battery through the car to a amplifier, a head unit with 3 (Front/Rear/Sub) RCA phono ports, cables running through the centre console, 5 channel amplifier, wiring to the door speakers and hardest of all, what to do about the subwoofer?

 

For inspiration I found this video of a professional install

 

 

 

 

 

I'd like to say my build will be identical to this one but come on, I'm not taking the car apart to this extreme but I do think it's possible to do a similar job without a full strip down. I also wanted to show how much deadening materiel the professionals use, after using some on my last build I can't recommend the stuff highly enough, especially if your after clear and punchy sound. 

 

Edited by Loki
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5 hours ago, HEADPHONES said:

I never knew about the 2 Ihms 4 Ohms thing before.

Thanks for posting up this informative guide:thumbs:

 

Your welcome, I've spent the last few days researching and it felt a shame not to pass on that information, it's sort of a thank you for all the help I've received from members of this forum.

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In this post I'm going to cover the front speaker install.

 

Firstly the speaker size you want are 6 1/2 inches/16.5 cm, these will fit both front and rear enclosures.

 

For this and ever build really, I recommend coaxial 3 way speakers, these come with 3 different dedicated cones for the full sound spectrum of Highs, Mid-range and bass, importantly for this build they also have a built in crossover, meaning no extra hardware between the amplifier and speaker. They sound better as well and you don't need a replacement tweeter wiring into the factory location, why create the extra work?

 

*I'm also going to go into wiring in new cables, these modifications aren't easily reversed and could damage your car, so please move forward with caution.*

 

Now that's out of the way, lets get into what you need/I've bought to do this job

 

Pioneer TS-A1670F - 6.5" 16.5cm 320W Max Power 3 Way Coaxial Car Door Speakers

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pioneer-TS-A1670F-6-5-16-5cm-320W-Max-Power-3-Way-Coaxial-Car-Door-Speakers/352477001361

 

2pcs 165mm Front/Rear Door Speaker Adaptor Kit Rings for Nissan 350Z *Needs to be at least an inch depth to fit speaker in shallow enclosure*

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-165mm-Front-Rear-Door-Speaker-Adaptor-Kit-Rings-for-Nissan-350Z-Juke-Cube/333808471926

 

6.5 INCH SPEAKER BAFFLE SILICON INCLUDING BACKING FOAM

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-5-INCH-SPEAKER-BAFFLE-SILICON-INCLUDING-BACKING-FOAM/193746233724?hash=item2d1c2ce97c:g:JYQAAOSwfw5frGEN

 

Dodo Mat DEADN ® Hex Car Sound Deadening 5.83m Bulk Roll Vibration Proofing Mat. *This is the amount I estimate for the full install not just the doors*

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dodo-Mat-DEADN-Hex-Car-Sound-Deadening-5-83m-Bulk-Roll-Vibration-Proofing-Mat/162406372457

 

2 x Car Sound Deadening Application Roller Installation Wheel Pushing Tool S + L

 

12PC CAR TRIM DOOR PANEL PLASTIC DASH REMOVAL MOLDING SET INTERIOR PRY TOOL KIT

 

(the links for these were massive so just search the above on ebay)

 

When it comes to speaker wire anything more than 16 gauge is a waste with ICE installs, so no need to break the bank on expensive pro wires.

 

Without further delay let's get into those doors. This video will take you through the whole process.

 

*Top tip Use the BluTak trick on the screw under the door handle, it's very easy to lose.

 

 

This video didn't cover a major part of this install, running the new wires into the door, luckily for us another member has already done the hard work for us. Massive Kudos to iKarus for this guide, please thank them

 

 

There are a couple of things I should have mentioned but I've left till now, I'm intending to fit the Amplifier in the storage area behind the passenger seat, with the 3 RCA cables running down the centre console, keeping these wires away from the speaker cables is important because you can get interference if next to each other. To avoid this the door speakers will be wired under the sills and run to the Amp separately. I'll post how to do this in the next part, where we look into getting access to those rear speakers and remove a load of plastic trim. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 20/04/2021 at 17:31, scobie140 said:

Guides like this is why the forum trumps facebook all day long :thumbs:

 

Thanks scobie140, it's always nice to hear positive feedback

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The 10 inch Subwoofer problem.

 

When I started this build I always knew the sub would cause me the most trouble, it has but not in the way I originally thought.  The plan was to get a custom box built just like the one in the professional build video, my only worry was the fabricated fibreglass section at the bottom of the frame.  Which is needed because the factory sub is slightly larger than the frame and sticks out leaving a gap, this needs to be filled to made the box air tight.

 

I couldn't help but wonder if there was a better way, so I decided to read a few more threads and see what other people had done.

 

I guess the first thing I found was that the metal frame used to house the sub in the factory location is far from the best material for mounting a speaker, even if you use sound deadening the flex from the metal will spoil the sound, so that was out. I kept on reading and it seems the sub has been an issue for many people before us.

 

 

I read stories of downward firing, upward firing and replacing the metal frame with MDF, but in every thread there were people saying the same, it'll sound terrible and that the factory location is the worst place for a sub. I was beginning to lose faith until I found a thread which I believed could solve the problem.

 

The poster was using CAD design software, sound recording equipment, making prototype boxes and had easy access to the factory location, they also posted their plans for other people to copy, I thought I'd hit the mother-load. Sadly it wasn't to be, all the attempts the OP tried failed, the factory location as it turns out is a terrible place for a 10 inch sub. The only people to make it work, use 8 Inch subs in a enclosed box because they will fit into the factory slot allowing removal of the metal frame but getting a 10 inch to works it seems is a no go.

 

So what now.

 

For you there are two options and these depend if you want to keep your spare wheel or not.

 

Custom subwoofer enclosure under rear strut bar or in the boot where the spare is. Both have their drawbacks, the "boot" is also only 15cm deep, so a shallow sub is necessary here and because I prefer bass below the ears and not above like it would be with the strut bar type I'm going to lose my spare. The truth is both will produce better sound and deeper bass than in the factory location.

 

Which ever you choose, stay tuned because I still have the amplifier and rear speaker install to cover.

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Edited by Loki
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
On 15/05/2021 at 18:06, scobie140 said:

That is some set up your going for!

 

I have to admit I'd like a system similar to the multi sub set up but sadly that isn't the reality. It does look cool though 😎

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It's been a while since my last post, this is mainly because I hadn't actually done the install. So last weekend and with a little help, I set about the job at hand.

 

Before I get into that lets talk about amplifiers, most importantly how to choose the right one for your build. Most modern amps can handle both 2 Ohm's and 4 Ohms, but if your reading this far, you'll most likely be interested in the 4 Ohms. For this project I have a 5 channel amp, 4 Speaker and 1 Sub woofer, before you buy one, check your speakers spec's first, specifically the continuous power output, the Pioneer TS-A1670F have a 70 watt C.P.O and the Pioneer TS-A2500LS4 sub I'm using is 300 watt C.P.O.

 

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The most important thing when buying a car amp is not to exceed the continuous power output of your speakers, being under is fine, I could run mine from a 50 watt per channel amp, it would be under powered and short of their true potential but would work without any problems. Of course running over the C.P.O. only has one expensive outcome, don't risk it.

 

You've probably noticed I'm using Pioneer kit and are most likely expecting a similar theme with the amplifier and truth be told I did search the internet for a Pioneer 4x 70 watt + 300 watt Sub amp and I just couldn't find one. I did eventually find the perfect amp, a Phoenix Gold MX800.5. Now I have to admit I'd never heard of the brand, after googling and checking you tube for reviews there was nothing on the MX800.5. I dug a bit further and they seem to be okay, quiet big back in the day then went a bit crap for a while but are back at their best again, looking forward to putting it to the test.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303848829035?epid=22034755059&hash=item46becd306b:g:ZIAAAOSwWU1gAa~m

 

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Now we have the all the required hardware, lets talk wires. The spec's will usually tell you which gauge wires and amp fuse you'll need, I'd also ask the seller just to double check and give you some leeway if there are any issues down the line. I bought mine form the same place as the amp after reading some bad reviews for the branded kits, usually the blue "switcher" wire is very low thread wire and the other wires are shorter than advertised. You should also invest in some ferrules, these fit to the end of the speaker wire and help prevent any stray wire from shorting on the amp, they do a really good job and are cheap, I can't recommend them high enough.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264083657718?hash=item3d7c9cd3f6:g:ROQAAOSwWXRfa0SZ

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223246849307?hash=item33fa8c951b:g:6bwAAOSwm-Fb95zFfurrule1.jpg.a955ca99877358d9a68d93a9deb6b3bf.jpg

 

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So here we are, it's time to get your hands dirty. The install.

 

When first looking at the interior it can appear quiet daunting but really it's just a 3D puzzle where you need to remove the parts in order, this video will take you through it step by step. It's easy when you know how.

 

  

 

What this video doesn't cover is how to run the power wire from the engine bay to the cabin. These are a couple of pictures of how I did it, be very careful not to damage any of the other wires when cutting the rubber gromit, that would be bad. Also even though you can't see it there is a fuse in the wire, this needs to be fairly close to the battery for it to work effectively. The cable will come out in the passenger foot well.

 

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Now we're going to look at how to run the wires through the cabin, there are two schools of thought on this, some say don't cross your power wire with any other, it can cause interference to RCA and speaker cables, others say that's a load of rubbish. I don't know for sure either way, but I reckon why risk it. With all the trim removed it's very simple just to run the power wiring under the carpet by the seat and the passenger side speaker cable along the edge of the door under where the rubber fits.

 

The earth is easy to find as well, both sides have a unpainted earth point which can be used and the frame work has plenty of cutouts to run the wires through. As I said I'm using the glove box behind the passenger for the amp install, please excuse the basic diagram but this is how I ran my wires.

 

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Edited by Loki
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I'd like to say, and there you have it a successful build in a 350Z but this little scorpion has a sting in its tail. My aim was do do the job either alone or with a spare set of hands, which I needed in the end, when refitting the trim it was a lot easier with two to line it up right, I also wanted to help anyone else who might consider a similar job, to whom I now must apologise because when I saw this I shat myself.

 

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Some where in there are the wires I needed and I couldn't even begin to guess which one they are. I did find a switch though, no idea what it does but there is a loud beep when I turn it on and (what I had thought was an alarm sensor by the door, is actually) a light that turns on with it. I'm hoping to solve this mystery when I take it to the auto electric shop next week, yes you read that right, every thing is done but those door speakers I'm leaving to the professionals, makes me ill just thinking about it......

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  • 7 months later...

Hi there,

 

I’ve recently fitted a new pioneer HU, and I have bought some Focal front door speakers aswell as a focal sub and amp. I’ve fitted it all today however when I tried to turn on the HU, only sound came from the rear speakers, which means that it was playing from the factory amp. How do I manage to play music from the aftermarket amp? 
 

I would be grateful for any help as this is my first time in upgrading any sound system.

 

Thank you 

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