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3rd gear non exisitant!!!


p3nn

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Afternoon Chaps,

So had a bit of a nightmare yesterday, went out for a spirited drive alongside my mates E36 Track 328i.

Going from 2nd to 3rd gear i heard a loud audible bang towards the back of the car.... initially thought it was the diff/prop but seemingly it was the gearbox.

Could understand if i was rev matching down/putting a lot of pressure on the box but didn't expect it from 2nd to 3rd.

It now appears as if Third gear is non existant.

It will slip into the gear fine however if you lift the clutch nothing is there whatsoever and you get a very quiet grinding sound...

Double clutching doesn't work...

 

Parked car > Into Third Gear > Lift off Clutch also doesn't engage anything..

Guessing i'll need a new gearbox but any ideas or contacts?

Cost for rebuild?

Cost for second hand gearbox?

Looks like i'll be living the 350z life for a bit longer after dropping the money on this!

 

Cheers,

Matt

 

Edited by p3nn
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30 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

The way forward would be to pull and strip the box to assess the damage or just drop in a used unit to save on downtime.

Thanks for the prompt reply.

I'm guessing the cost to pull/strip the box would be heafty as it is.. and if i'm doing it at my friends garage he might as well put another gearbox in?

Does that sound sensible?

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Having recently done this (i say I... @Keyser and Mrs Keyser did most of the work) its an all day job, even with all the tools in the world at your disposal and a lift. Definitely DIY-able, but if youre on the ground with a trolly jack and axle stands, its a difficult one. a surprising (to me) amount of stuff has to come off

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On 27/02/2019 at 14:01, cs2000 said:

Having recently done this (i say I... @Keyser and Mrs Keyser did most of the work) its an all day job, even with all the tools in the world at your disposal and a lift. Definitely DIY-able, but if youre on the ground with a trolly jack and axle stands, its a difficult one. a surprising (to me) amount of stuff has to come off

Thanks for your reply.

We'll have the access to lifts and tools but doesn't sound straight forward from what you say..

Any tips/tutorials/advice?

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Do you know I'm not sure if keeping the prop the same place is important any more, It's because the prop is (should be) balanced  and back in the day - 1980's (pre my war years :lol: ) if you didn't put it on the same way round you could get vibration. The reason for the bolts is they are high tensile - 4 bolts take 300HP - so you don't want to get them muddled up with standard bolts.

 

It's -

Disconnect Battery

 

Remove -

Interior trim round gearstick then -

Gearstick cover plate

Gearstick to gearbox holder (can mark the triangle plate as it's position controls the push down point for reverse.)

You then remove the gearstick bolt from under the car just pull the square rubber boot off to get at it.

Exhaust -  I do Cats as well and  take of the sensor wires in the middle (colour coded so no need to mark)

Prop

Cross member (little one)

Starter motor

Clutch line - take the complete slave off for a DE and hang it from a zip tie saves bleeding the clutch after

wiring loom - start at the back remove 2 sensor connectors then all the 10mm bolts holding the clips all the way to the front where you find a long plate going up but again just remove the 2 x 10mm bolts, also has a wire running underneath the bell housing that goes to the CPS and starter.

Bell Housing bolts - don't miss the little inspection cover bottom centre with a little 10mm bolt

top centre of the gear box is a breather pipe - I find it easier to remove that as well

Rear gearbox mount and cross member

 

Pull backwards and be ready to catch :lol:

 

I think that's it but I wrote that from memory so I may have forgotten something :lol:

 

Good Luck :thumbs:

 

 

 

 

 

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