davey_83 Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 Lol opt'f for turbo diesel characteristics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longsh07 Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 (edited) 4 hours ago, burntorange said: Ok, but in that case what not just add more fueling up top too so that you get the best of both worlds more hp and more torque. Edit. Think ive just got it lol. So you have intentionally lost peak horsepower to fuel the midrange torque... which 350z you go the revup or hr Running rich brings its own issues besides fuel economy , notably carbon build up and bore wash (I believe this is where too much fuel removes the oil from the cylinder walls). If you look at the AFR plot on the dyno chart (bottom / right) at the point the engine is making peak Hp (approx 6400 rpm) its already running at nearly 12:1 AFR. Mine is a GT4 so its a DE RevUP engine. 4 hours ago, burntorange said: I sort of feel from what i have read....so please chime in if im wrong...i dont understand why you just dont go for max hp because so i hear max torque normally follows 1 to 2k below peak hp which would be midrange right on these engines??? Hmmm just speaking my mind right now lol Peak power is at 6400 rpm. Peak torque was at 4800 but moved to 5200 which follows what you are saying. What you'll also notice on the torque graph (bottom / left) is that despite losing peak power, the torque available through the entire range (2500 to 6500 RPM) has increase a fair amount. In theory, if you tune for peak power you'd need to rev the nuts off it constantly to say at peak power. Instead, my car pulls harder now from 2500-6500 than it did before so does losing 9Hp really matter if the car is now more responsive? Edited May 3, 2018 by longsh07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 Depends if you want a sports car or a diesel Only teasing, I totally get where you’re coming from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longsh07 Posted May 4, 2018 Share Posted May 4, 2018 @burntorange To be honest I think you're probably at the point that if you need anything else answered you need to speak to a tuner directly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burntorange Posted May 4, 2018 Author Share Posted May 4, 2018 Gotta wait ages for that lol, they are all so busy!! Do i take it you asked for yours to be tuned in this way or is that just the way they tune them?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longsh07 Posted May 4, 2018 Share Posted May 4, 2018 Why not just give them a call? You might not get booked in any faster but they'll be able to answer your questions at least. No not particularly, that's just how it went on the day. I wasn't particularly looking for power gains, I was more interested in the 1:1 throttle response, getting the CEL for post-cat sensors disabled, and a couple of other bits and pieces. At the time I drove the car daily and that I prefer acceleration over top speed, this is just how it came out and I'm happy with it. I do need to back again though as I've since had the HFC's removed and Stock cats fitted. Might right and pick up an Motodyn MREV2 plenum though, apparently they do wonders for my engine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burntorange Posted May 4, 2018 Author Share Posted May 4, 2018 I read somehwere that Haltech ECUs do wonders on this engine....need to read up more on them though before i buy one lol. This CEL for Post cat sensors - tell me more about this as i have a feeling i will want this for my HFCS if it does what i think it does Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longsh07 Posted May 4, 2018 Share Posted May 4, 2018 (edited) Unless your going forced induction or ITB's its probably an unnecessary expense to get a standalone ECU. CEL = Check Engine Light You don't want that. There is loads of info on CEL's after fitting HFC's or Decats on the forum. It's caused by the difference in readings between the pre-cat and post-cat O2 sensors. I cant recall the code but there can be four different codes if I remember correctly. Each code refers to a different sensor, bank 1 sensor 1, bank 2 sensor 1, bank 1 sensor 2, bank 2 sensor 2. Part of the UpRev remap is to disable Sensor 2 on both banks so that it doesn't read the O2 level after the cats which can be out of spec with Decat/HFC Edited May 4, 2018 by longsh07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burntorange Posted May 4, 2018 Author Share Posted May 4, 2018 Yeah i presumed that would be it, mines forever telling me how my cats are not performing well when i first start up. if you disable that , will that further affect you passing an MOT as it was hard enough as it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longsh07 Posted May 4, 2018 Share Posted May 4, 2018 (edited) Shouldn't make it any better or worse to my knowledge. EDIT: HFC's were just too much hassle for not enough benefits IMHO. I do miss the sound though... Edited May 4, 2018 by longsh07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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