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Improving acceleration


burntorange

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So i have a jwt lightweight flywheel and clutch on the way...getting a custom made dual flow exhaust done....i will be doing the plenum and air filter stuff and then going for a remap....but im wondering what else can we do to increase acceleration without fi......like lightening the flywheel etc.....i have heard you can change the final drive but what else??

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Final drive will do it, but expect fuel economy to suffer and high revs at highway speeds.

 

A small mod, that might be worthwhile if you have a DE is to get rid of the parasitic idler pulley, it will lose you about 500g of rotating mass from the engine, not a whole lot, but it is a very cheap mod ~20 pounds in parts, all you need is a smaller belt and a spacer, cheaper if you can machine the necessary spacer.

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Hmmmm i will look into that idler pulley....i have access to a cnc machine so i imagine i could machine this spacer if i knew what it needed to be.....research needed here......

 

Is there any obvious weight savings but still keeping it a nice looking daily??

 

 

Also anything else as far as suggestions go keep em coming

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26 minutes ago, burntorange said:

...

 

Is there any obvious weight savings but still keeping it a nice looking daily??

 

 

 

That will be down to you as what is one man's food is another man's poison.

The leather heated seats are very heavy and that would be a great weight saving.

Also loads of trim stuff that you could bin.

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There is a guy on youtube i stumbled accross watching 350z stuff that has stripped his zed out to the extreme but everywhere he can save weight he has. He is called thatbluezguy it will give you some ideas if you want to take things further. He claims to have the lightest 350 in the world. Obvious ones to start with are stainless/titanium exhaust, lightweight bucket seats, sports/decats, lightweight fly, remove spare wheel and jack. 

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Wheels are a great place to lose weight from, however if you have Rays on then probably not worth looking at anything else unless you've got serious cash to burn.

 

From a standing start, the tyres will be the other big place to make gains from. The quicker you can transfer the power down the quicker you'll be moving, so pick a semi-slick to suit your budget and go from there.

 

 

Aside from that, it's just going to be about weight as others have already said. Saving weight will be better than 5bhp extra from a filter, and cheaper too.

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Its not for drag racing, it was more for getting the most of the car as i plan on having it as a daily / odd track day here and there,

I do have the rays already on this DE, which is a good start, and im going to getting looking at weight saving including the parasitic idler pully.

does anyone know the weight of the original leather heated seats? be good to have something to comapre to when shopping around.

Cheers for all suggestions so far

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Check out these for inspiration. Goes a bit beyond what you'd want for a daily, but gives you an idea:

 

2725lbs (1236kg) Z - https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-road/595172-350z-gutted-weight-loss-pics-nasa-ttc-prep.html

 

Lots of part weights - https://my350z.com/forum/exterior-and-interior/416242-z-part-weights-with-pictures.html

 

Another lightweight, approx 2905lbs (1318kg) with part weights - http://www.350z-tech.com/forums/173-nissan-350z/69348-official-3point5-weight-reduction-thread-ongoing.html

 

Also worth thinking about weight distribution - relocating the battery into the boot for example - or you'll end up with an even greater front bias. 

 

Acceleration from 0 or at low (legal) speeds is traction limited, but if you want acceleration at higher speeds without FI, then NOS is your friend. ;)

 

 

Edited by OnlyAfro
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48 minutes ago, burntorange said:

My knowledge of nos and its affects on the engine are next to nothing..... is it safe to boost with nos without upgrading internals??

If done properly and you don't go crazy, it's safe, and costs as little as £1k or so.

 

Stock internals are fine up to ~400whp / torque, so you can safely do a 50/75 shot of NOS.

 

Unlike FI where the power and extra strain is always present, typically with NOS you will have a window switch so it only squirts between say 3k and 6k rpm and a controller so the NOS is progressive, making things even safer.

 

It can be run on the stock ECU and all sorted when you get an UpRev, including a small retard for Men Without Hats levels of safety.

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You can run 100, or even 125, on stock internals, but it requires more retard and you'd probably want to use an aftermarket ECU, which is expensive. It depends what your priorities are - personally I'd rather leave a nice safety margin and stick with 75, but one of the great things about NOS is that if you want more, you just swap out the jets for bigger ones (you get a selection of sizes in a kit) and get it remapped.

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I have NOS, don’t bother, it’s a complete pain to get hold of and only Greenlight and Adrian Flux will insure you. I’m actually considering disconnecting the whole system and just leaving the tank in the boot for cosmetic purposes.

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tbf i looked into Nos, and i feel by the time youve paid for the install and the constant refills, as they look pricey! may aswell have gone for the FI route!

To be honest i think long term, i want to first of all get the basic bolt on upgrades done and remapped.

ie Dual flow Zorst, HFC's , Plenum (How expensive!?), free flow filter, possibly the idler pulley, then mapped!

 

then im thinking about improving the handling, now this is where my knowledge really suffers haha but i would like to make the car hang on that little bit more when doing a fast corner before the rear starts to wanna overtake the front, but thats for the suspension thread.

 

After this i think i would like to build the engine and then decide whether i want to go 

Turbo or Supercharger to make a killer sleeper car. 

 

whats peoples thoughts on reliability of either of these options as i know turbo is where more power can be accessed from but supercharger has way less to go wrong.

 

 

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If you want a fast car, follow the rules: First make it stop, then make it handle, then make it go.

 

If you sort your brakes out then you can carry much more speed that you currently do, then do your suspension so you can corner quicker so waste less speed, then worry about power. The Zed has more than enough grunt as stock, you just need to maximise the weak points (brakes and suspension) to really make the most of it. :) 

Edited by Ekona
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Regarding brakes... i currently have the gt with the brembo brakes....not that i actually think theyre any good as they are. Think i ruined my pads when i suffered brake fade from braking to a stop at over 150mph.... (on closed roads obvs) 

 

Would getting braided hoses do the trick here, new pads for my ruined ones? Btw my knowledge isnt the greatest on modifying cars

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Braided lines are definitely a plus (and cheap too), then I would change the pads for something you know to be decent. If the discs are okay then leave them be: My current preference is to use reasonably cheap discs and spend the cash on the pads instead. Obvs if you have the money then get some awesome discs as well, but personally I feel you see more benefit from pads than discs pound for pound.

 

In terms of pads, I'd go for the Performance Friction 01 pads on the front and their Z-rated pads on the back. I've had personal experience with these and have found nothing better on road and track, although please check they've not updated their part codes in the last few years!

 

And I really wouldn't worry about putting the 'closed roads' thing on here, no-one's fooled for a minute :lol: Just put 'repeated high speed stops' or something equally vague but informative, as at least that way you're not leaving yourself open for prosecution as well as a telling off from the mods ;)

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