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Koukicuda S14A, 350z handmedowns.


evilscorp

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21 hours ago, Ian said:

How are you finding the SR to work in compared to the VQ :ninja:

 

why not top mount turbo?

Night and day difference, if I had the money and time I would have forged the pistons by now lol.

So easy to work on but the spaghetti of coolant hoses is a joke.

 

I originally just wanted to keep it all oem and just slightly raise the boost, then I thought if I want to eventually build a TT VQ then I may as well get a good turbo.

The oem manifold wont crack and had hoped the exhaust and intake pipework would all work with off the shelf stuff.... I was wrong and wish I had gone V band and top mount for easier custom piping.

 

Also wanted it to look oem and hide the big turbo under standard heat shield (still will) but then figured I may use the 350z maf too save headroom hassle and fit it just before throttle body, not sure why more people don't as it will be better if I dont use a blow off valve..

Edited by evilscorp
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  • 4 months later...

The project is still alive, just need to update this thread, busy working 12 hour shifts so not easy to find the time to work on the car for long periods.

 

Just sorting out small things like wiring gauges etc, only bits i need to buy are a custom downpipe, propshaft, tyres and windscreen. Then its all down to me.

 

Had to wait ages for a replacement part on the gktech shifter as the nylon housing was too tight and couldnt select reverse without it getting stuck down. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

gearbox mount needed moving forward as the protuner bracket was too short to reach the front bolt holes... nice of them to say. Had to shave a bit off the gearbox reinforcement fins/casting and drill new holes in the 200sx bush mount (may buy a new hardrace one if this is too soft) also used some rubber membrane as packing/dampener.

gearbox mount.jpg

gearbox mount1.jpg

gearbox mount2.jpg

gearbox mount3.jpg

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Just my luck, the gktech shifter was too tight and wouldnt spring back up, emailed them and was sent a new nylon part but ended up shaving down the one I had, it may need swapped as reverse can still stick the gear lever down, hopefully a bit of wear will free it up.

gearbox linkage.jpg

gearbox linkage1.jpg

gearbox linkage2.jpg

gearbox linkage3.jpg

gearbox linkage4.jpg

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Done some wiring for gauges but need to take photos, also got fed up trying to make my old 350z vortech intercooler work with a mixture of custom pipe/couplers so have ordered a crapspeed high mount as the normal ones wont fit with the boss kit and I prefer the shorter pipework. Also got a new baffled oil pan as the old one is rusty and leaking.

intercooler pipework.jpg

intercooler pipework1.jpg

intercooler pipework2.jpg

intercooler pipework3.jpg

tomei oil pan.jpg

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16 hours ago, Ian said:

Where did you get the oil pan from?

 

Mine has a leak I think so might aswell upgrade :D

JDM garage, think it was a black friday purchace with the koyo radiator and a r35/350z maf pig tail.

 

The plan was to keep the original sr20det maf which doesn't normally do well without a recirc valve and also plumb in the 350z maf and housing I have spare just down from the throttle body as it copes fine with a blow through style but I got fed up so I will either have to swap them over when tuning (whichever is easiest for my tuner) also need the oem one to create a base tune with the power fc. (might be an option to use 350z maf on it not sure)

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I may have to get one of those on pay day :D

 

I'm chasing hesitation when on boost at the moment, seems to hit a brick wall at 4K sometimes so I've bought Audi R8 coilpacks & new spark plugs, if that doesnt fix it I'll chuck my 350 MAF in

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Hopefully either yourself or docwra can help but ive forgotten what the blue hose on the far right bellow the throttle body is for? Is it idle control valve? Is it needed?

The aftermarket hose it too small dia internal to fit onto the intake pipework so would need bored out and its also going to be in closer than prefered proximity to the fan as the shroud needed cut.

 

Still need to make some foam surround for the fan cowling as its got a large gap (propably the old ac rad took up the space?) also have to try seal up the holes I had to cut so it creates the best suction possible.

 

The bottom rad mount I grinded away a small spike for it to sit in, hope to stick a rubber washer over it to reduce movement at the bottom and I still need to drill the holes at the top to hang the bolts from.

 

Got some money back as the intercooler arrived slightly damaged as it was poorly packaged (end pipes were bent slightly), also I think the hose couplers I was sent are ill fitting but I fortunetly have plenty spare in my stash. 

cutting front clip.jpg

cutting front clip1.jpg

icvalve.jpg

intercooler setup.jpg

rad cowling cut.jpg

rad cowling cut1.jpg

rad mount.jpg

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I can check tomorrow for you and see where it goes but I think it goes to the carbon canister. I removed mine and now it goes to the boost controller

 

edit: ah the bigger one? Sure it’s for the oem dump valve 

Edited by Ian
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On 15/01/2021 at 00:55, Ian said:

I can check tomorrow for you and see where it goes but I think it goes to the carbon canister. I removed mine and now it goes to the boost controller

 

edit: ah the bigger one? Sure it’s for the oem dump valve 

The one in the second last picture, it connects to the intake pipework. The dump valve largest pipe on the intake had been blanked off.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Going to getto my driveshaft, probably not wise but ive seen photos of the couplers and videos of the push fit ones being made.

 

Need to cut 15cm off and then make a jig to press the metal serrated coupler back in with some epoxy resin.

 

Going to do it at the gearbox side so if it does break it doesn't puncture the fuel tank.

:blackeye:

 

Yes its dangerous, but I might try to sneak it into work and use their balance rig to spin it up and check runout if not I will have to make something.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Spent more time than I wanted jamming the headliner back inplace. Only cut two small sections above the drivers side (roll cage) to get it to fit.

Also Mounted the petrol cap and boot release, a small tab or fixing for the end of the cable must have been damaged at some point so had to figure a way to keep it in place, two p clips seem to work.

headliner.jpg

boot release.jpg

boot release1.jpg

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  • 5 months later...

Quite a bit further on with this, just adding fluids for a start up to find all the leaks :boat:

 

Got the correct sensor connector for wiring up the CD00* gearbox reverse switch so last one and worst to do is the speed sensor on the diff abs, still not got the correct connector so may end up getting a universal and cutting the oem :dry:

reverse sensor.jpg

oil gearbox1.jpg

oil gearbox.jpg

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brake lines were a faf, had to swap the t joint(in car) for a different one as the fittings couldn't get tight without making the other side loose so had to go for all male one.

Suspect the power steering lines will leak from the rack housing as the fitting isn't quite as long as the original and don't think the o ring at the bottom has compressed. (Stupid overpriced chasebays are the only company that probably has the correct fitting.(no doubt wont sell it by itself.)

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brake lines4.jpg

oil filter.jpg

oil filter1.jpg

oil filter2.jpg

oil filter3.jpg

power steering.jpg

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  • 9 months later...

Not updated in a long time but car now starts on its new brain, a few beep boops and the injectors are no longer dumping fuel out the exhaust, which was also not fun to learn to tig weld on. 278316303_10166469411115441_879473207550

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I intend to make a high cell cat or buy a 200cell one off ebay once I get it mot'd

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tried not to warp the metal by finding the biggest bolt i could.

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  • 2 months later...

296475056_10166791231920441_416673313418

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MOT was booked for today.... it didn't make it. Test drive yesterday shows the tune is way off and undrivable, tried a few things but just cant get it happy, still have a few things to check but I can't get my wideband to not read full lean, it was installed correctly but has already killed or had a bad AEM sensor. Going to try get it ready for a transporter to dynatune before MOT next month.

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Nissan make it nearly impossible to remove the airbag warning light.... and ive run out of time/patience.

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Wasted too much time making this, but gave me lots of practice screwing up tig welding. 278223571_10166469411335441_378948954797

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not as nice as the tomei ti exhaust at the back... dont worrie I swapped the standard cat for a new one... which now got so warm on testing something started smoking. ordered a ford heat shield to try protect the passenger footwell as they dont make oem ones anymore.279217700_10166514759810441_418099134488

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  • 1 month later...

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