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Rear crossmember brace rust :(


Sainz92

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Hi all 

 

I'm not sure whether I'm posting this in the right place but basically my car failed the MOT on Friday due to a rusted rear cross member and brace. So I was wondering whether anyone else has experienced this and whether anyone has had any experience changing one of these out? 

I'm having a bit of trouble sourcing the parts at the moment, but I was hoping to perform the change myself over the next couple of weeks/months. Pictures of the rot is below.

 

 

resize.jpg

resize2.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 18/09/2017 at 18:35, Adrian@TORQEN said:

Most welcome. The brackets come with brand new hardware, the W brackets doesn't come with hardware, but you can buy it separate, all products are listed in link above. Shout if you need any more info :lol:

 

Thanks mate! Should be ordering next week when I get paid. Do you have the rear floor partition (I think that's what it's called). the part that connects the 2 stays, I'll put a pic below. If not do you reckon its structural/needed? 

 

Thanks

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  • 1 month later...

Not to step in and put someone off a purchase but I will say that that the connecting part mentioned above is a big job to replace!

Plus, in my humble opinion (and I'm sure the 'nissan engineers know best!' argument will come up) I don't think it does all that much, having studied where it mounts etc. If anything, it looked like an assembly aid to hang various other bits off in the factory.

When I say 'hang' I literally do mean hang; when un-done, it's suspended with some small plastic straps.

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  • 5 months later...
On 21/11/2017 at 18:11, Tom_K said:

Not to step in and put someone off a purchase but I will say that that the connecting part mentioned above is a big job to replace!

Plus, in my humble opinion (and I'm sure the 'nissan engineers know best!' argument will come up) I don't think it does all that much, having studied where it mounts etc. If anything, it looked like an assembly aid to hang various other bits off in the factory.

When I say 'hang' I literally do mean hang; when un-done, it's suspended with some small plastic straps.

Spot on mate, I ended up cutting it out and not replacing it, there is no way that it could be structural as its very thing metal and as you said, suspended by plastic straps. I didn't realise that I would have had to drop the rear sub frame to fit it. It's only connected to the 2 sub frame stays. 

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Apologies for the lack of updates.

After many cold evenings and a bit of blood, sweat and a busted thumb (5lb lump hammer vs thumb) I managed to sort the rust issue and got the car through the MOT and back on the road in December. Luckily all of the rusted components were bolt on parts which were pretty easy to replace (apart from one rounded nut which caused havoc and had to be split, but was in the worst possible place with literally no access). 

TrSL92Ef.jpg before

oyJQrzHM.jpg after

When the car was on stands I took the time to Kurust any signs of developing rust and then undersealed the under body of the car the prevent another ball ache.

 

The parts were bought from Torquen, who were excellent and provided a fast and easy service!

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Awesome I heard "Torqen" is also a pretty awesome :p I need to underseal mine when I get it split up a bit later in the year, keep putting it off :( what did you do for the job?

Edited by MDMetal
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12 hours ago, G1en@waxandshine said:

I have undersealed mine last year and used bilt hamber dynax range after scouring the web for reviews. I now sell the very stuff i used. Below is link to a kit but everything is available individually on the site also. 

https://waxandshine.co.uk/shop?olsPage=products%2Fbilt-hamber-underseal-kit

So this is all wax? how long does it last? I've seen some people use more of a paint?

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There are various options. There is not a definitive lifespan on wax as it will lessen over time naturally but the wax does self heal where paints when chipped wont, so potentially expose the metal. The S50 is for cavities so out of direct contact. I sprayed it into any hole (easy tiger) underneath and behind arch liners etc. The UB is for exposed areas underneath and is a brown/black coating so you can see where you have used it, i put this onto any exposed metal on the underside. The UC is similar to UB but clear so better for areas you see that you dont want to turn brown, i used it on the suspension components, in the arches and cills, and behind front/rear bumpers. The hydrate 80 converts and protects already rusted surfaces. I didnt need this as the underside was very clean but for older DE models this will sort any existing rust issues. 

Have a look online. The products get great reviews and i was very happy with using them. :thumbs:

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On 15/05/2018 at 10:03, MDMetal said:

Awesome I heard "Torqen" is also a pretty awesome :p I need to underseal mine when I get it split up a bit later in the year, keep putting it off :( what did you do for the job?

They have pretty much anything you need! I went down the Waxoyl route, I paid £25 for 6 spray cans and they give a really good coverage. I know it's not the best stuff on the market, but it still does a decent job. 

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