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nubs White 370Z GT Edition


nub

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Yeah it's a V2 spoiler with original factory paint and it seems to match perfect. The rest of my parts seem to be matching better as they get bleached slightly buy the sun.

I never even new the nismo lights were like tinted darker or whatever until nathan told me. So it may be I prefer the head lights as they are. I'll have to look at more legit nismo to decide. Either way it's probably too hard and beyond my capability. So unless the nismo head lights make a big impression on me they stay the same. I've got / sets of spacers to go on with Z1 induction kit, 2 Stillen coolers. As it is, I personally like the OEM 370z wheels painted matte back, not even lying and I've yet to fit spacers. Some might not agree with me but I think it looks better. Maybe some rota grid drifts or something in matte would look even better. In person when you can see the wheels clearly it looks better.

 

Does anyone know, like on my EP3 and FN2 engine mounts you could add more rigid inserts that instantly improved gear shifting. and that was just fitting one pair on a mount, leaving the various other mounts stock as each one increases cabin vibration. Is there a part like that made of polyethylene or whatever that makes gear changing better on my Z, without causing the cabin the vibrate loads more. I'm not having issues changing gear but the box is not as slick as Hondas I'm afraid, which you can change gear with your little finger ;)

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

It seems like tapatalk does not work on here anymore?

 

Well time for an update. I fitted a genuine  nismo spoiler, I should have said no. And stopped spending, but sometimes you gotta think it's now, or possibly never in regards to rare a opportunity/item for sale. Whens another used MK2 nismo spoiler gonna appear in white?? So I'm satisfied with that purchase and the overall exterior of the car is complete for me, really pleased with the wheels also, I seem to be getting more attention and head turns although I don't see what else there is to do bodywork wise unless there's some nice vented bonnets I don't know about. But I'd rather keep the factory nismo look. And I honesty quite like the OEMs now they're matte black. 

I had Stillen thermostatic oil cooler and power steering coooler? Fitted on Monday with 25mm spacers all round which improved the look a lot. Also Z1 induction kit which was the last engine mod to be fitted. 

Come to Wednesday and it's remapping time at Abbey Motorsport. I was a bit late and it was a long hot day, there's **** all to do in oxted. So we all have our expectations as to what figures we want, and I got less than I expected, 313.5 at hubs pretty much 360bhp if you've multiply by 15%. Maybe it's less than that I dunno if 15% is the proper figure. 

I expected the Fast Intentions CBE to Ark switch to lose a few BHP. I expected the FI HFCs to motordyne ART Pipes to gain at least 5 BHP, maybe more. And then finally I Expected Z1 to gain at least 10bhp over stock. Although I can't be sure what had most influence powerwise, the mapping  dude (Mark I think?) told me to touch the Z1 aluminium pipe, which I did and as you'd expect it was too hot for me to keep my hand on. Just a few centimetres away and the Z1 silicone coupler part was warm but much colder than the aluminium, which being directly connected would have contributed to the increase surface temp. So in my eyes, yes it was a hot day (27. C) and the dyno may not be 100% the same as a real scenario driving at high speed, but without a doubt the heatsoak prevented me getting s higher figure like 360+ nearer 370. I have heard the stock setup with a panel filter provided less, but cooler air in some scenarios. He told me I'd have most likely made more with the factory box that I'd had fitted 2 days earlier

What annoys me most is I've been moaning about that flawed design ever since I joined the forums. I asked, why not make it entirely silicone or other plastics resistant to heat. Because comparing surface temp of metal to the silicone pipe, there is a huge difference. Further up the intake towards the TB it's it's hottest. So it begins entering the filters Infront of the bonnet reasonably cool but as soon as it passes the from the silicone to the metal, the IATs increase dramatically. Which defeats the point of a CAI. Seeing that about 5-6 manufacturers all use the same design I was sleptical l but I figured I must be somewhat wrong and chose the Z1 as appearance wise it has the most amount of silicone compared to Stillen for example which is almost entirely aluminium? Mine may have been an isolated case as I've heard many reports of gains from these Intakes but perhaps they're attributed to the wrong part, or the dyno room was particularly hot that day.  

There is no way that a metal intake pipe as hot as it was, would result in a good IATs and thus gains in bhp. 

I gained torque elsewhere in the range of course but it wasn't the peak number I expected. The ECUtek adjustable maps and TC are great, also the throttle response. I did specify 99 RON but I think he assumed it was 98. 

And so, without reverting back to the OEM factory enclosed box I begin begin wondering if there are any solutions. The obvious being replace all the metal with a more suitable durable and insulating plastic or silicone which I've seen in other Honda kits, On my old supercharged FN2 I had a CAI entirely made of silicone it never got more than warm. These engines don't run nearly as cool anyway. 

So to clarify, and without sounding like I'm chasing pub figures, it's obvious 

this metal section of the kit with the air flowing through its, simply heats it up the IATs again, even higher than ambient. They might provide more power top end at high speed due to bringing more actual air in than stock, but it's hot air. To call these cold air intakes is bollocks really, say CAI then try hold your hand on the pipe for more than a second and you'll get your hand scolded. 

if I could effectively protect the cool air until it reaches the TB I would expect big differences in IAT. If I could DIY a replacement I would but I don't have time. Even using your hands alone you can determine there's quite a difference in temps comparing the silicone to the aluminium. 

So I've a few days to resolve this heatsoak, reduce it or eliminate if it's even possible.

This will be a test purely to measure the surface temps, on the surface of each intake tube at the same time, maybe one area or maybe several. One being the regular pipe, the other side being wrapped as much and as thick as possible in silicone and gold wrap to increase insulation and keep the air feed cool for longer as it reaches the throttle bodies. They will cool at different rates and so after a run i'll comparing surface temps on both at the same time. with the regular Z1 pipe, the majority of the middle section has enough clearance to be made pretty damn fat and as insulated as possible. It won't be as good as replacing the aluminium altogether tho. 

Its gonna be tough to do and so whilst most use gold or silver protection tape exclusively, I'm all going to use thick silicone also where possible. The thicker the layers the less heat transfer. I've ordered various sizes but the main central section should be wrapped in 1CM silicone, no problem, I've got thinner sizes too. So in addition to the gold tape, which claims 80% heat reflection or resistance etc the silicone increases the barrier between the cool air and engine bay heat. . If I had more time I'd buy a Z1 intake house and mods to fit and replace the entire aluminium but I don't have time. So the areas with little space will be covered in thinner silicone and gold wrap. The thicker the better. It will of course look retarded but afterwards it will  all be blinged up in gold wrap anyways.

Once the right side is done I'll compare surface temp to the regular aluminium. If there is a significant differences in surface temps between the two then im gonna assume itd doing its job and that also the air inside is remaining cooler, being less exposed and more protected. Again, if the results are good, I'll repeat the process of the other side and I can assume I'm getting cooler air from the front bumper all the way into the engine. Don't ask me the formula but if been told as little as 11F could result in 1 BHP

 

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Edited by nub
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Surely once the car is moving the air will flow so quickly that it's not going to get a chance to warm up *that* much over ambient?

Perhaps at low air velocities, but I cant see there being much difference in temperature when the CFM is high when using an intake that's drawing air from the front of the car which is moving (Stillen gen 3 for instance).

 

 

 

 

Edited by nrenz123
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Good work,good read.You should have done the ten minute walk to Oxted,it a beautiful village with a few nice shops,pub and ale store..I'm at Abbey in a few weeks time for three hours and will head into Oxted.

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Already chaps. I'm sure I mentioned I had a few plans I'm well gone by now to be honest but I'll see what I can do

So I tested my theory, covering one side almost only with an 80mm silicone and then 4 layers on gold tape in areas., others 3 layers. It had to be trimmed down as it was too long and so it could slot over the censors etc. Actually my uncle did the work mainly for me with my supervision, and because I don't do mornings. But it's pretty straight forward. So I then I went for a 20 min drive, mainly cruising & casual driving but finally 2nd gear pull up to 120mph or so and then 10 mins later I stopped to compare both temps., and the results were great. 

 

First of all I'll say again this was more regular drive, not to test in more extreme conditions and taking the engine to its limit. I.e even hotter! Without a thermometer, just by placing my hand on both sides it was immediately apparent that the regular Aliminium was too hot to hold onto for more than 3-4 seconds. Normally it would have been even hotter, it was warmish today but on a hot day the aluminium section can literally become too hot to touch really for more than 1 second!

So moving onto the wrapped part, touch the largest diameter section, it was was surprisingly only Just what one would consider to be warm. For example like when you touch your central heating radiotors and you can just about feel a bit of warm to indicate it definitely is on, but it's only just warming up. 

I couldn't get any result at first because its infrared thermometer and it was acting as a mirror refecting it and messing it up. When we did locate an area on the underside, we were able to get a proper figure. 

 

When we checked it l, it was was more than we expected. And considering the heat had a few minutes at least to cool down too.  As you can see from the numbers, the unmodifed aluminium was over double the temp higher in degrees Celsius. compared with the right hand side extra insulated with silicone tubing over it followed by 3-4 layers of the Gold fancy heat deflector tape. Both the silicone and tape were of the RamAir brand I think. 

 

So the results are 31.C Vs around 62 degrees C, and that was at the lower section of the induction kit, the temperature increases further up towards the TBs. Even the short silicone section left hand side where it says Z1 logo, the temp was still around 15-20C hotter than the golden intake section. 

 

I also think the difference in temps would have been even larger if I had got the engine to even higher temps, like you'd encounter on track sessions etc. 

 

So logically assuming, the cooler air begins going through  the filters at front bumper, and as it flows through the aluminium piping, the surface temp of that piping itself I now much lower. Thats because it now has layers of silicone and the gold tape covering it and giving heat protection. 

I think this could have actually been made even more effective. Because I think, adding even more silicone I.e the thicker or simply more layers of silicone you add , plus the the wrap, just reduces heat transfer further and further until it barely becomes as any hotter than when behins at the source at the filters. 

 

I know the air travelling through the induction is very fast WOT and so the differences in surface temp is definitely not the true or accurate reduction in IATs, but I'd like to think even just a minimum of 30c reduction of the outside of the outer surface temp must gain a few BHPs!

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok. Went on a trip around Europe as far down as Italy. Didn't get loads of pics apart from my car at different angles. Saw plenty of supercars too. I learned to drive quiet well on the mountain roads with Mich PSS4s and ok the motorways it feels real planted, even at 165mph. I'm sure that nismo kit does wonders for the downforce and aero @ highspeeds, regular roadster with 30bhp over me could not keep up over 100 odd. I think the roof down is terrible for Aero 

 

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  • 1 year later...

I amost forgot I had a project thread here. I’ve already got ART Pipes with Ark Grip but I’ve bought a motordyne shockwave. It’s going to be a bit louder fore sure, but I just have to try it. It should arrive next week 4.5” burnt rolled tip. I wasn’t sure on the bigger 5” as under hard accelerating it hit and burn the rear bumper.  Plus they don’t stick out much either way. I’ll have the Ark Grip for sale at some point 

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2 hours ago, nub said:

I amost forgot I had a project thread here. I’ve already got ART Pipes with Ark Grip but I’ve bought a motordyne shockwave. It’s going to be a bit louder fore sure, but I just have to try it. It should arrive next week 4.5” burnt rolled tip. I wasn’t sure on the bigger 5” as under hard accelerating it hit and burn the rear bumper.  Plus they don’t stick out much either way. I’ll have the Ark Grip for sale at some point 

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Was the grip not loud enough

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Ark Grip is one of the quieter options if you run any decat or HFCs. There’s zero drone at all, cold starts are ok and with with windows up, it’s still really refined in the cabin. But some of that may be due to the ART Pipes resonating too. The shockwave has a louder and deeper note. But they seem to be designed to go together, each set of helmholtz resonators still minimises drone and it’s doesn’t sound drastically louder than my current setup. 

 

Bear in mind this one has a CAI and the motordyne inlet M370 inlet, both parts upgraded Ivthink. Sothere’s a strong induction note. But it sounds good to me, I could live with it. Cold starts loudish but only for 30 seconds or a bit more. 

 

 

Edited by nub
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I will get around to doing some kinda review maybe with clips lol. It’s a lot better than I expected. And I think many underestimate what the ART Pipes do alone, compared with regular decats and HFCs. With anything else other than the art Pipes (or stock cats) the shockwave would be too loud. It’s not too loud at all 

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On 08/08/2018 at 12:48, Payco said:

You need to buy my Mark 2 Nismo rims.:teeth: going up for sale..

I haven’t seen these in the flesh tbh, I do like them but my favourite wheels for the 370Z would be some CE28Ns in flat black. I’ve had some Rays gram lights TA Edition as well, not as valuable but I kerbed them few times.  If I bought your wheels and kerbed them one day i’d probably have a mini breakdown, it would ruin my week anyway. With my regular stock wheels in matte black, I’ve already kerbed them a bit on the Euro tunnel but I can just touch them up with matte black and it’s not the end of the world ;)

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  • 4 weeks later...

I need my rear brakes replacing both sides. I might get the fronts done too if these go well. I’m not even if it has stock pads on, probably has I ordered MTEC grooved discs which were pretty cheap, then EBC Redstuff pads should be a noticeable upgrade. Thanks to Chris from Tarmac. Only fast road pads and on the rear but as I’ve read they bite a bit harder and the Akebonos already have virtually instant pedal response. I think the same all round might be real good. I’m not sure whether drilled/slotted and all that would be beneficial. Not worried about cracking but I don’t drive my Z hard enough. So all the time they are not overhearing, are they not sacrificing surface area and stopping power a bit? I doubt there’s much in it anyway as I see many better sports cars with them, they probably reduce brake fade too - but I won’t be getting them that hot. then there’s race pads too that would eat my discs, I’d have to get better discs and so on. 

 

I still haven’t haven’t finished or started a review or my thoughts on the shockwave yet. It’s fantastic Maybe on a joint or something i’ll attempt it. It’s the combo with the ART Pipes, other resonateD HFCs might replicate this too but I can only confirm the the ART Pipes. I’ll say to anybody considering perhaps in the future buying the  Motordyne Shockwave to not be dissuaded or discourages and definitely combine it with ART Pipes. 

It is NOT too loud and it’s all designed to work magically together. The 4 helm holts resonsonaors play a role too, as does its design and 3” extra flow 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I've seen it all now. It's taken nearly 6 years of being on here but it's finally happened :lol:

 

If anyone has genuine trader issues, please do bring them to the team before going for it on the forum. It rarely ends well for either party and usually ends up with cliques forming, chipping away at one another for ages to come and one of the Team having to delete a load of posts.

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Ok.... so no one wants to wind it in and move on then guys ??. One more comment on this debacle and I'm deleting all and any comments on this. What's been said and done is done, leave it be and move on. Nubs, this is your build thread, treat it as such and other members, leave it be on anything other than the actual build story. I've already asked yous to calm it down, not asking again.

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16 hours ago, nub said:

Nope. Let’s put it like this for you to understand; Adrian made a silly remark because he realised a customer had used a rival trader. He then deleted my comments and removed me from the FB group. Once again, because I did not buy his exhaust. 

I’m aware how petty that sounds but this is how Adrian behaves when he gets jealous or whatever. It’s not like he went without food that week, nonetheless its unprofessional and desperate behaviour from a trader, so why would I not mention it? I do not care how many fanboys want to get involved, that’s to be expected and I can handle it no problem. 

If I went around the members build threads on here making similar unnecessary comments, I certainly would not get away with it. 

 

Wiil you please just leave it now?  You really aren't doing yourself any favours at all by talking in a condescending manner to other members, for example "Let’s put it like this for you to understand;" . It isn't the first time in the course of this "discussion" either.  We get it, you're not happy wth Adrian, we understand that, really we do!!!  Enough is enough,, this was a pretty good build thread until you posted your complaint about Adrian on it.  There were other ways to deal with this but you chose this way.

 

Note for others, this is a BUILD thread so let's return it to that status please.  Any further comments from the OP or anyone else here that are not build related will be deleted.

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  • 1 month later...

I haven’t remapped my car since switching to a Motordyne shockwave so I don’t know. It was around 360bhp with the ark grip but the ART Pipes and Motordyne shockwave really is a fantastic combo, the best IMO they are designed to go together. The Motordyne shockwave is a beautiful exhaust, it expands from 2.75” to 3” I believe and it seems to be very free flowing. After a spirited drive the exhaust titanium tips are not really hot at all. Strangely they are only warm and you can touch them no problem.  I’m not sure but maybe thats an indicator of how free flowing the exhaust  if it expells the gasses and heat so quickly without restriction, back pressure. That’s just my theory anyway. I’ve had a fast intentions cat back also. With Ark grip I made around 360bhp. The shockwave such a good design and is definitely less restrictive. Maybe it gains me 5bhp-10bhp who knows. I will remap it next service. And i need to do some drive by clips. I’ll say again, I really recommend ART Pipes and the shockwave cat back it has an exotic different note due to the helmholtz resonators. 

 

 

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