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Is the 370Z Reliable? Warranty Cost?


FallenAngelX

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Ultimately are you going to find anything cheaper with the same performance and the same age that's going to be any more reliable, or any cheaper to replace bits than a 370? I'm not sure you would, so you're already taking the safe option by considering one. Buy from a dealer, get a full inspection done by a specialist before purchase, and I reckon that's about as safe as you'd need to be. :thumbs:

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As Dan says, a 370Z is pretty much your best bet.

 

I'm gonna make an assumption your criteria is along the lines of:

- < 7 years

- <50k miles

- <6 secs 0-60

- (Semi-)Auto

- RWD

- Sporty Coupe

- Reliable and relatively cheap to maintain

 

Personally, I'd instantly rule out anything German, unless you are buying new, so no VAG stuff, Mercs or Bimmers.

 

The Alfa Romeo Giulietta, Focus RS, Peugoet 308 GTI, Renault Megane Renaultsport, Seat Leon Cupra, and Vauxhall Astra GTC are all FWD hatchbacks and probably only as reliable as the 370Z if not less so.

 

If you don't mind compromising and getting a sedan, you could potentially pick up:

Mitsubishi Evo X - Excellent performance, but AWD and repair bills will be even higher

Lexus GS 450h - Bulletproof, but a bit boring. CVTs are no fun either

Subaru WRX - Another AWD, but might be a bit better for reliability

Jaguar XF V6 - Reliability is supposed to be pretty good on Jags these days, but a 370 is still gonna be more fun and probably cheaper to run

 

The only other option, which admittedly is VAG, but probably beats the 370Z in every way is a Porsche Cayman / Boxster. They are supposed to be very reliable, but if something does go wrong, the bills can get scary big, and fast.

 

So there you have it, the 370Z is the best mix of performance and reliability. Get one :thumbs:

Edited by Strudul
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987B/C is very reliable, and day to day running costs (including servicing) are equivalent to the 370.

 

It's just when they do go wrong, they go very wrong. As long as you get an inspection done, you'll be fine. Boroscope is vital though.

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Audi have one of, if not THE, worst scores for reliability.

 

The Z4 can be alright, but it's still gonna cost you more than the Z34.

 

I know it's surprising, but the results show that Porsche are actually very reliable. I spent a considerable time looking into them, but eventually settled on a Z33 as they are cheaper when things do go wrong (and look better :bleh:).

Edited by Strudul
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Same goes for all cars, a warranty or rainy day fund is a must have.

 

I've been there with the warranty situation, I have a 2011 manual, got it 2 years ago with I think about 29k miles.

It came from the original dealer, it was back from the original owner and came with the factory 12 months cared4 warranty.

Lucky for me because just short of 12 months later and while getting the mot and service done, shifting into 6th gear had a meltdown! It would occasionally play up before that point but I didn't realise it was an issue and thought it was me being a sloppy shifter.

 

Suspect it was because the previous owner used to drive in 6th with hand on the shifter.

This wasn't a cheap fix. And I can see it as a good thing it happened. It means that now I've had a repair done by a GTR specialist and also have the comfort of knowing the box has been inspected which isn't feasble while buying a car, I was also able to justify to myself having an improved clutch put in while the work was being done.

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I think the 7at is about £7k from Nissan, used ones seem to go for £500-£1000 from breakers they are a pretty sturdy gearbox , they do have a limit when tuned but anything shy of FI is ok

 

IME they are much more reliable than the manual gearboxes , I've only heard of one failure

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Any used car can go wrong, whatever manufacturer you go with - Nissan happen to have a pretty good reputation like most of the global brands which sell hundreds of millions of cars. If you are seriously that worried, pay what you have to for a warranty. Otherwise do what the rest of the world does and buy a car you want and deal with any issues as part of the ownership experience.

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987B/C is very reliable, and day to day running costs (including servicing) are equivalent to the 370.

 

It's just when they do go wrong, they go very wrong. As long as you get an inspection done, you'll be fine. Boroscope is vital though.

 

987 isn't a reliable car at all...

 

Engine problems are rife, boroscope can see what's happening on the day..

 

A week later you could be into a full rebuild..

 

Even the DFI units are now starting to score bore ..

Gearboxes have poor detents and syncro's and jump out of gear..

 

Poor engineering with big price tags

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You couldn't be more wrong if you tried.

 

 

The M96/97 engines do not score up over night, that's just preposterous nonsense :lol: Failure rate is roughly 10% if you take the averages, and a carefully warmed up engine given full beans at the appropriate points will likely be fine. IMS failure is more haphazard, however later ones have proven resilient or you could just put the LNE kit in and be done with it. Add a third rad and the LTT, and the engine should be fine for many miles.

 

DFI units are not scoring any more than any other engine in the world (I can only assume you're referring to Baz's post the other week), including the ones in the Zeds. Gearboxes are strong as anything, and certainly stronger than the many issues we've seen in the 350. Tiptronic and PDK 'boxes have proven themselves tough, too.

 

 

I mean, if you're going to criticise them then criticise them on the costs to repair if things go wrong, but at least understand what you're talking about before you label the 9x7 cars as unreliable. I said get an inspection first, and yes, if the bores are showing signs of damage then walk away. As long as that's all good, then you end up with the finest sportscars sensible money can buy.

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Aye..

 

I have only had 7 engines out of 98x cars and had them rebuilt..

 

I take it that you know about the piston liner failure that causes the scoring?

 

Presume so.... depending on what bits fall off bore degradation can be rapid...

 

Let's not get into the chains that snap or the ims bearings that collapse...

 

Feel free to roll the dice.... 10% is a fair estimate but it's not a game I will play anymore... had 3 x 911's and they have all been @*!#..

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N54 is a forged engine in 35is

 

They are tough but turbo's do fail... and you have to pull the engine to fit new ones...look at £2500-£3000.

 

High pressure fuel pump

Low pressure pump

Injectors

Water pump

Vanos solenoids

Cam ledge bearings

 

All common things....

 

Again you need a warranty

 

Unless your N54 had all of this replaced before you bought it :teeth:

 

And lets be honest, theres a bit more potential in an N54 than a VQ37 at the end of the day ;)

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Is the rust along the wheel arches fixed from the 350Z days, or is that still an issue with the 370Z.

Don't think it's a problem with the 370, could still occur though. That's not reason enough to put you off buying one though, it really isn't even a major problem on the 350.

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N54 is a forged engine in 35is

 

They are tough but turbo's do fail... and you have to pull the engine to fit new ones...look at £2500-£3000.

 

High pressure fuel pump

Low pressure pump

Injectors

Water pump

Vanos solenoids

Cam ledge bearings

 

All common things....

 

Again you need a warranty

 

Unless your N54 had all of this replaced before you bought it :teeth:

 

And lets be honest, theres a bit more potential in an N54 than a VQ37 at the end of the day ;)

 

Of course...

 

And so it should with 2 turbo's on from the factory..

 

I do like the N54 and they can go to big bhp... but for ya man who doesn't realise what he is buying then they can be a shocker for bills

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As someone else said, it's just about the most reliable RWD 320bhp car out there. The post 2012 cars particularly so. Are they the last one word in refinement and build quality? No. Would i personally run one out of warranty? No. But the powertrain is fundamentally solid. Things that might cost scary money are the connect premium hdd (£10k?). Off topic but my 9 year old 350z was kinda reliable, just lots of little £100 or £200 bills rather than anything 4 figures. Still left me stranded a couple of times, loved her though!

 

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

 

 

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  • 11 months later...

So a 1 year later update to this post!

 

I bought a z4 35is with 32k miles on the clock 12 months ago, it is currently sat at circa 400bhp with a map, and is wrapped in 3M fiery orange :).

 

This car has been great, but i still feel the urge for an amuse 370z! I know the 370z will feel slow after the z4 but there is more to a car than speed for me. I imagine the 3.7l v6 will sound intoxicating with a good exhaust and im keen on the powerband and response of NA engines. Im leaning towards the auto but am worried it will feel dire in terms of shifts. I read it is 500ms per shift in the 370z where the Z4 DCT was 80ms.

 

Additionally how is the 370z on fuel, the Z4 is currently averaging around 12-14mpg (spends alot of time in boost lol) 

 

Thanks everyone!

Edited by FallenAngelX
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Custom map the BMW if you want better figures, mine is well over that power and I average 23mpg driving like an arsehole everywhere, Ive seen 34 on a run. 

 

As for going from modded 35s Z4 to 370Z ........ Id have a test drive before you make any firm decisions if I were you ;)

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