Red_Nic Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 (edited) Hi Guys,I've had no luck searching the forum for this.Once on fri, once on mon, and once today, my engine has 'pulled back' for 1 second , whilst I'm driving a constant 50 or 60mph.My foot is steady on the pedal and I felt the engine hesitate for 1 second and then continue.Any ideas what it could be?My mechanic had a theory and loosened my fuel cap (i have 1/4 tank petrol) on Tuesday to ease pressure? It didn't stop it pulling back today.thanks in advance edited: new photo Edited September 8, 2016 by Red_Nic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cov350z Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 it sounds like it could be a bad earth somewhere other than that could be a sticky throttle body there the cheap options i think before you get into bad senor somewhere. as for loosening the fuel cap ???? im no mechanic but dont all tanks have a breather pipe ie its not a vacuum ???? see what the jedi's of the forum say 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-G- Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 Sounds like a sticky throttle-body to me. If there are no slip lights appearing to indicate the vdc/tcs is kicking in thats the most likely cause. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 Wont be anything with the tank, its vented or the engine wouldn't run, it could be any number of things, i would go with a bad earth, or a bad connection on the loom for starters. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red_Nic Posted September 8, 2016 Author Share Posted September 8, 2016 picture up loaded on my control panel just now.Went to drive off for lunch.Engine pulled back, sluggish, engine light came on, ESP light came on, skidding light came on (I didn't skid).All lights on constant now.What do you think is wrong? will I be able to drive home from work tonight?@z Fanatic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis_UK Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 Dirty MAF? Dirty TB? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 picture up loaded on my control panel just now. Went to drive off for lunch. Engine pulled back, sluggish, engine light came on, ESP light came on, skidding light came on (I didn't skid). All lights on constant now. What do you think is wrong? will I be able to drive home from work tonight? @z Fanatic Obviously something is causing the CEL, was going to ask this before but as you didn't mention it i presumed not, however you now need to get the code/s to determine what is causing the CEL and go from there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red_Nic Posted September 8, 2016 Author Share Posted September 8, 2016 what does MAF and TB mean? How do I get codes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-G- Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 My guess is throttle body position sensor. You can re-calibrate these with the pedal dance but seeing as your were losing power intermittently prior to the CEL light coming on I'm assuming it was on its way out. If you get an OBD2 reader and retrieve the code it'll confirm or deny it. P2135 is the error code thrown out by a faulty throttle body. I don't think you can replace the sensor on these - it'll be a whole new throttle body - what model of 350z have you got? DE or HR? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-G- Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 what does MAF and TB mean? How do I get codes? Mass Air Flow Sensor - meters how much air is getting in through your filtered intake TB - Throttle body - self explanatory You can get to codes by doing the peddle dance but its miles easier using a mobile phone and an OBD2 plug - I'm sure someone local to you can let you borrow it to diagnose your issue. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-G- Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 If it is the throttle - there's a how-to located here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/53148-how-to-ecu-accelerator-pedal-throttle-valve-resets/page__hl__%20throttle%20%20position%20%20reset%20%20procedure 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red_Nic Posted September 8, 2016 Author Share Posted September 8, 2016 thanks guys. my mechanic has an OBD2 reader, so I just need to drive 20 miles to get to him. Hope it makes it! many thanks for your answers. Z Fanatic - I don't know if mine's a DE or HR ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-G- Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 You can tell by the age most times, 2003-2006 are DE and DE Revup engines, 2007 and later are HR. DE is single Throttle, HR is Twin Throttle. Pics for illustration; DE Bonnet - single Throttle DE Engine, Single Throttle HR Bonnet - Twin Throttle HR Engine - Twin Throttle Let us know how you get on :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red_Nic Posted September 8, 2016 Author Share Posted September 8, 2016 (edited) mines 2004 Edited September 8, 2016 by Red_Nic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-G- Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 Single throttle then, should be a lot easier to work on / replace if it comes to that :-) Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red_Nic Posted September 13, 2016 Author Share Posted September 13, 2016 so, when the mechanic plugged my car in, it said I had a faulty camshaft sensor. Nissan parts were around £150 each sensor = around £450 total, so he ordered generic parts from America on a 4 week lead time, £50 total for 2 camshaft and 1 crankshaft sensors (plus import tax?). Ordered crankshaft sensor too, just in case. Mechanic has removed engine fault lights from dash. I have to drive it for 4 weeks until parts come in. Drove this morning to work, engine lights haven't come back on yet. Any comments from anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red_Nic Posted September 22, 2016 Author Share Posted September 22, 2016 (edited) update. Mechanic replaced my camshaft and crankshaft sensors. It drove fine for 3 days, but today , car pulled back and the same dashboard lights came on (engine, ESP, skidding). Plugged EOBD code reader in, it says P0340, which manual says is "Camshaft position sensor A - bank 1 circuit malfunction" which is same code from before. any help/comments/experiences? Edited September 22, 2016 by Red_Nic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis_UK Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 update. Mechanic replaced my camshaft and crankshaft sensors. It drove fine for 3 days, but today , car pulled back and the same dashboard lights came on (engine, ESP, skidding). Plugged EOBD code reader in, it says P0340, which manual says is "Camshaft position sensor A - bank 1 circuit malfunction" which is same code from before. any help/comments/experiences? Hi Nic, How much did you pay for the sensor/s? Because I recently also fell foul to cheap aftermarket sensors which was not better than useless it seems. It seems the OEM really are worth their value. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red_Nic Posted September 22, 2016 Author Share Posted September 22, 2016 (edited) yes I went for the cheaper £50 for 3 sensors , from ebay, from USA, not Nissan ones for £150 each. Edited September 22, 2016 by Red_Nic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetpilot Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 Try zmanalex for some oem 2nd hand replacements. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeFiddyZ Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 +1 on buying either good used oem replacement sensors or brand new oem sensors. You buy cheap you buy twice I'm afraid. Sent from my Xperia Z2 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uc-logic Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 Winding this back a little, you say the ESP anti skid warning light came on - this would explain the slight hesitation. Could be the hesitation is being caused by the ESP kicking in rather than throttle bodies and camshaft sensors. I had the same experience with my 2005 350z, started with the odd hesitation when travelling at a constant speed but then became more pronounced - accompanied by the ESP light coming on. Turn ESP off and the problem disappeared. In my case I discovered the front wheels were out of alignment and the nearside tyre had worn considerably more than the driver side. Took the car in for a four wheel alignment (best £50 I have ever spent) and put two new tyres on - problem solved. My 350 is now on 149,000 miles and drives impeccably. As with lots of marques, error codes can often be very misleading and are the delight of many main dealers because they just keep replacing the parts. Some errors can be instigated due to a small voltage fluctuation - i.e. the fault is not necessarily permanent nor does it require a part to be replaced. Many owners have experienced the airbag light coming on and it can be reset very easily, my engine management light has come on from time to time and I just reset the codes with a simple OBD reader. If there is a genuine fault the warning light will come back on immediately and will require further investigation. I suggest you just try switching off your ESP (just don't floor it when exiting bends, might end up facing the wrong way) and see if the problem persists. If the problem goes away then consider the cheapest option first, tyres and wheel alignment - my guess is this will cure it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 + 1 on the voice of reason above, its not always down to just the one CEL code that's shouting at you, other dependent parts can cause the same CEL, although i would start cautiously by unplugging certain related parts/sensors and go from there, rather than jumping in and start buying parts. And on the subject of only using OEM parts, i have always used third party manufactured parts, especially considering a lot of these parts are actually manufactured by third parties in the first place, and often by the same company, but carry the OEM stamp. I have never had any problems with said third party spares. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted December 2, 2016 Share Posted December 2, 2016 Any update on this OP? Anyone with similar issue with resolve............... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red_Nic Posted March 15, 2017 Author Share Posted March 15, 2017 I replaced the cam shaft sensors with genuine Nissan ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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