Jump to content

350z Headunit Replacement Guide (with links to parts)


cs2000

Recommended Posts

Also, just to add I didn't need to do  'Busters harness mod'. 

 

I read another post on here (sorry can't remember who by) that suggested by turning up the volume on the Bose HU to about 3/4 then switching off the power before removing it would ready the amp for the next unit.

 

I tried it before fitting my Sony XAV-AX3005DB and the volume works as it should. Whether it was a fluke or not I don't know but it's got to be worth a try before cutting and soldering for no reason!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi,

 

Need some advice!! Would be greatly appreciated. I purchased a Bose swc fitting kit for my 05 350Z GT from incartec. paid £50 for installation and now music only plays from my front two speakers!! Im not an audio specialist so I cant confirm, but the technician that installed it claims this kit does not provide all the connections needed to play music from the rear. https://incartec.co.uk/product/Nissan-350Z--before-2006-BOSE-SWC-fitting-kit 

To confirm, my 350 has the bose 7 speaker system 240 watt and the stereo installed was a Sony WX-920BT. After installation, the sound is very weak, only plays from the front two.

 

Edit: I spoke to a few audio specialist who said that the kit containts everything needed (4 pre out channels) so the technician who fitted it has no clue what hes doing obviously. Will be taking the car back tomorrow, but he admitted he has no idea where the yellow and black channels are to be connected.   

 

Many thanks in advance for any help

Edited by shak50z
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
20 hours ago, Daisyduke said:

Pull it all out at the 2 plugs further back and get the iso adapter for those. 

have ordered the adapter for the 2 plugs before (for the Bose 350z, 2003 to 2005 edition). 

Will disconnect the cables there and get scared whilst trying to fit :boxing:

Edited by ken1224
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, Daisyduke said:

Pull it all out at the 2 plugs further back and get the iso adapter for those.

Massive thank you for pointing me in the right direction.

 

All in and well happy, as I could never have done this without the advise, and the great clear guide.

 

props to buster bob also as this work around is perfect.

 

What a brilliant forum, so glad I joined.

 

hopefully will be popping to hem comb next week, so will say hi to some of you guys then.

 

 

B8314BF9-CA4A-4742-9EBD-B0437E7A75CB.jpeg

6C3B5F1F-577A-495F-82FC-B4CD473084DB.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
On 28/01/2019 at 17:04, NickC said:

Also, just to add I didn't need to do  'Busters harness mod'. 

 

I read another post on here (sorry can't remember who by) that suggested by turning up the volume on the Bose HU to about 3/4 then switching off the power before removing it would ready the amp for the next unit.

 

I tried it before fitting my Sony XAV-AX3005DB and the volume works as it should. Whether it was a fluke or not I don't know but it's got to be worth a try before cutting and soldering for no reason!

Just got the same stereo did you have to splice the blue/white from the harness for the remote amp wire, as there is no simple connection.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Bit of a funky one, but hoping someone help,

 

installed a Sony XAV1000 using this guide, went well for the most part, other than some issues getting sound

 

however, I’ve got a parasitic drain caused by the Radio now. It kills the battery in about 24hours of standing. (And removing the engine bay fuse for the radio does stop the drain)

 

is there anything I should check first?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Followed this guide, was great other than some issues with my actual wiring supplied. I had no bullet connector for the blue/white (amp) and the only blue/white I had was just running from 1 connector to another. Only bullet connected wires were a yellow and red, and yellow had a double bullet connector. So I connected to the yellow, which I believe is 12v Ignition controlled.

 

anyway, radio is constantly drawing 3mv (tested at the engine bay fuse) even when off. I believe it’s draining the battery. I am hopeless when it comes to car electrics... any suggestions? Or anyone in Staffordshire willing to sort it for me? Haha (will pay of course)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Thinking of swapping the oem head unit for a upto date one but as its more a track car i am doing things differently to most so can anybody help with the following. I have already removed the bose sub and amp from behind the drivers seat as it had stopped working anyway, i am wanting to remove the amp in the boot to create more boot space but as i understand it this powers the front and rear speakers?

So is there a way of bypassing this amp with a new head unit or will i need to either buy new amp/run new wiring/something else. I would have thought all new stereo units would have a built in amplifier capable of powering either 2 or 4 speakers. I may remove the rear speakers and just have the door speakers as its only for a little music/sound with an upto date system. I may buy new door speakers also but dont know if they need to be a certain size/profile to fit without having to bodge it. I am not bothered about a little work or soldering but have no knowledge of car audio systems so asking on here before i end up balls deep with no sound apart from my shouting. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Forgot to add, i have an aftermarket steering wheel so dont have steering wheel controls anymore so wont be needing that adaptor either. 
in my head i just buy a universal adaptor for new unit. Find the existing live and solder that into it, connect ground then fit 2 new speakers in door cards and run new wiring to new connector, solder that together, plug in arial connection and bobs your uncle?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Hi. 

 

I'm having trouble figuring out how to connect the power antenna wire. My hu loom has a single blue and white wire that is connected at both ends and a loose blue and yellow steering wheel remote input wire. For my hu I think I need to connect the steering wheel controls to that rather than the jack. If so, how do I connect the loose bullet connector on the incartek loom so the antenna receives power? HU is a JVC KW-DB93BT

 

Cheers for any help. 

20210422_185134.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...