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Project: WeaponiZed


V1H

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey yeah, so my tuner told me how to activate my MAP2 with the cruise control. Now I have much better dyno results than I previously had:

 

420whp

8.5 PSi

12-14° timing

 

But tuner told me there is alot more in it to be had because still pretry safe timing on current tune and no knock detection yet.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

With me struggling to put down power in corners, I recently read up on chassis reinforcements and it seems people notice improvements in handling. So I went ahead and purchased a set of four under body braces (sourced through TORQEN and Ebay). They're all from lightweight T6061 aluminium. Top to bottom, these are:

Soul Function 6-Point Mid Chassis Brace [#NSZ4RC3021L]

Megan Racing 4-point Front Chassis H-Brace [#SB-HBIG07-R]

Soul Function Rear Lower M Brace [#NSZ4RC3021L]

Megan Racing Rear Lower Tie Brace [#MR-SB-NZ34RL-R]

Chassis Braces

So far I successfully installed all but the M Brace:

Chassis Braces

Chassis Braces

The M Brace fits a U.S. 370Z's LSD housing just fine, but not my GT style finned LSD housing (stock). I have to decide whether to skip the installation of the M Brace, or flex away some fins to create clearance.

I'd be quite tempted to trim the LSD housing. I do hope that  this steel protrusion (shown in below photo) isn't hollow inside, or I'd create a leak when I cut it off..

LSD.jpg

 

The big 6-point Brace also gave me a little clearance issue with my driver side custom mounted lambda sensor. Nothing really that could've been anticipated. But I gently pried the brace by a couple millimetres and it clears now fine. Note, that brace requires the creation of two new mounting points on the under body via (supplied) rivet nuts. The rivet nuts installation was the most difficult part, if you're not familiar with them. Also note, this brace replaces your two stock Suspension member sub stays, so they have to first be removed:

StockStays.JPG

Edited by V1H
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10 hours ago, nissanman312 said:

Be careful how stiff you make her!

I found on my day at cat training just how making the chasis to stiff can make for a a unpredictable beast 

Good advise. It's certainly true for the suspension not to make it too stiff. I think a stiff chassis, on the other hand, should help the suspension to do its job best. Not too long ago I changed my rear Eibach anti-roll bar to its lowest setting (still 67% stiffer than stock) and it helped a little with wheel spin at traffic junctions. My Torqen dampers have always been on the softest setting, too.

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8 hours ago, V1H said:

Good advise. It's certainly true for the suspension not to make it too stiff. I think a stiff chassis, on the other hand, should help the suspension to do its job best. Not too long ago I changed my rear Eibach anti-roll bar to its lowest setting (still 67% stiffer than stock) and it helped a little with wheel spin at traffic junctions. My Torqen dampers have always been on the softest setting, too.

Yeah I've done the same on my roll bars 

When mine was set up at centre gravity one of his comments was how big the roll bars were (in a bad way )

A lot of the yanks just run a front bar 

 

Have you considered a good diff ? 

Or have you done that 

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On 25/01/2019 at 18:46, nissanman312 said:

Have you considered a good diff ? 

Or have you done that 

I have currently no plans to upgrade my VLSD. It'd be an expensive mod. There are still other mods to be done, e.g. Torqen BBK, Braum seats (and maybe ultimately forged engine).

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1 hour ago, V1H said:

I have currently no plans to upgrade my VLSD. It'd be an expensive mod. There are still other mods to be done, e.g. Torqen BBK, Braum seats (and maybe ultimately forged engine).

All sounds exciting 

Look forward to seeing the car in the flesh

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  • 5 weeks later...
On 24/01/2019 at 17:02, V1H said:

The M Brace fits a U.S. 370Z's LSD housing just fine, but not my GT style finned LSD housing (stock). I have to decide whether to skip the installation of the M Brace, or flex away some fins to create clearance.

I'd be quite tempted to trim the LSD housing. I do hope that  this steel protrusion (shown in below photo) isn't hollow inside, or I'd create a leak when I cut it off..

LSD.jpg

After many days of angle grinding and test fitting I managed to fit the M brace, too. I must have shaved off half a kilo worth of metal dust, as well as, buy a new angle grinder. My old one died of this job. The metal dust crept and settled down EVERYWHERE! Took me a couple of days to wipe clean the car underside and all garage afterwards. The air humidity slowly turned all metal dust into rust. I painted the exposed steel fins with Hammerite Black paint.

grinded LSD finsgrinded LSD fins

 

Now the 4th and last under-brace is installed... phew 

M Brace

 

Clearance might become a bit of a headache - only time will tell. The 6-pint brace has about 9 cm clearance from the road. That's lower than my front Amuse bumper...

6-point brace clearance

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In the pursuit of some blow-off psshhhhhh I decided to add two BOVs to my TT setup (my BorgWarner Turbos have internal CRVs and don't require BOVs but can work alongside them). 

I picked the GReddy Type-FV [#11501665] due to their 'floating valve design with dual spring system' for better low-boost response.

I had to also grab a couple of GReddy Alu weld-on flanges [#11900451] to accommodate the BOVs.

Because there are plenty fake GReddy and HKS producs out there I ordered through @Adrian@TORQEN, straight from Japan. Lead time ~2 months :snack: but they are here now!

BOV_1.jpg

After some head scratching I decided to mount them right there (crossed circles). Will be the easiest to weld onto, walls are thicker than on the pipes, and there's space behind the front bumper. They have to be located pre-MAF anyway, thus can't be nice and visibly sitting in the engine compartment . Shame, they are very expensive bling :dry:

BOV_2.jpg

Now I need to remove the FMIC and transport it to someone who can TIG or MIG weld aluminium...:shrug:

 

EDIT:

Having slept over it once more, I might instead relocate my MAFs a little upstream, closer to the throttle bodies, to make room on the charge pipes for the BOVs to be placed before the MAFs. Like so:

BOV_3.jpg
I'd not have to mess with removing the FMIC, and the vac lines from the BOVs to the intake plenum would also be shorter. It'd just require some extra and more delicate welding.

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19 hours ago, nissanman312 said:

If you need someone to make a nice job of that welding check out colin at creative he is awesome and not expensive 

I'll tag you in his work on Facebook 

Thanks for the tag, Nic! Much appreciated.

He'd be a little far for me though. 

I might be able to try the Engineering workshop at the University of Sheffield (my work)

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  • 4 weeks later...

I managed to have my BOV flanges TIG welded to my FMIC. The GREddy BOVs are now installed and look pretty bling :D

BOV_4.jpgBOV_5.jpg

GReddy6.jpg

 

PS:

On a side note, when I removed the FMIC I discovered large amounts of engine oi in the lower charge pipes (which come straight out of the turbo compressor outlets).

At first I was shocked, but my tuner Jez@Horsham Developments said it's pretty normal, comes from the turbos and collects in the intercooler.

The upper intake pipes toward the throttle bodies are indeed dry and clean.

TurboOil.jpg

Edited by V1H
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10 hours ago, nissanman312 said:

Very tidy mate 

I'd love to get out on a drive with this and see how she goes B)

Hi Nic, I guess we might meet at JapFest in July (where I'll prob be featuring at the Banzai stand)? I can't make it to JapFest in May.

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Added some Fly1 Motorsports Side Blades to my side skirts (ordered back in Dec, made to order in USA). They are the fibre glass that I painted in Satin Black.

I mounted them to the side skirts with five M6 bolts.

Fly1%20(1).JPG

Fly1%20(2).JPG

Fly1%20(3).JPG

Fly1%20(4).JPG

Fly (5).JPG

Fly (6).JPG

Looking at it, now imagine new BRAUM seats in here... :winkiss:

braum-elite-x-series-racing-seats-red-komodo-edition-pair.jpg

Edited by V1H
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9 hours ago, nissanman312 said:

Nice 

What do you have now just stock discs and pads 

Stock brakes, but with Hawk Performance Ceramic pads

Gonna go all out with Torqen's biggest BBK - XTREME (405mm)

Edited by V1H
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On 24/03/2019 at 21:45, V1H said:

On a side note, when I removed the FMIC I discovered large amounts of engine oi in the lower charge pipes (which come straight out of the turbo compressor outlets).

At first I was shocked, but my tuner Jez@Horsham Developments said it's pretty normal, comes from the turbos and collects in the intercooler.

The upper intake pipes toward the throttle bodies are indeed dry and clean.

TurboOil.jpg

To come back to my earlier post about the large amounts of oil I found in the lower charge pipes that come out of the turbo compressors, I now devised and home-made oil traps, installed at the lowest points of the pipes. This way oil would accumulate in the clear PVC hoses and could be drained when needed (by removing the jubilee):

Traps.jpg

 

Here pictures of BEFORE ...

TrapBefore.jpg

.. and AFTER installation of my custom traps:

TrapAfter.jpg

Edited by V1H
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