Jump to content

Cornwall-Bow

Members
  • Posts

    45
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Cornwall-Bow

  1. 22 hours ago, ZMANALEX said:

    If you have not replaced the front oxygen sensors then I would suggest that you do that, or at the very least get them tested, cleaning would have no effect.

     

    Note that as your car is a JDM it will be narrowband.

     

    Also I have found that aftermarket cam sensors is not a good plan, and I only fit genuine OEM.

    Ok O2 sensors will probably be next on my list, I've ordered a secondhand working throttle body so if that doesn't help the issue I'll return/re-sell that and grab some replacement sensors. The cam sensors are Delphi which I thought whoud be ok but I guess the JDM equivalent would be Hitachi or NKG? 

  2. Fair enough, the only noticeable hissing from near the upper plenum comes from the PCV valve but I thought that was 'normal'. Is there a way I can check if this is excessive? I was warned by a previous post on here to be super careful when cleaning it and I did take lots of care not to move the butterfly valve. So I just took the whole throttle body assembly off and sprayed it with carbon cleaned from both sides. So I'm hoping it's ok?

  3. Ah fair enough, I'll take a good look the intake manifold. It's had this problem before and after I changed the injectors and rocker covers. I also replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets as the old ones where looking a little tired. But potentially I've missed something when reassembling, would a bad throttle body throw a code? I've carbon cleaned it a good few times now and it's almost spotless but could it potentially have an issue electrically?

    😔

  4. Hello guys looking for some advice on an issue that's plagued me for a good year now and I'm struggling to get to the bottom of. 

     

    Background on my car: 2004 JDM import automatic 350z on 80k miles

     

    The codes I get, although rare they pop up I have had the codes:

    -p0172 System Too Rich Bank 1

    -p0175 System Too Rich Bank 2

     

     

    The problem: I keep either stalling out completely or going into an extremely rough idle after stopping (usually at traffic lights) or slowing down to bellow 15 miles an hour usually when slowing to give way. 

     

    I'd say 80% of the time the issue causes the car to complete cut out and I have to put it into park and restart it. This often causes the car to restart with the rough idle problem (extremely low idle that feels like it's struggling to get any higher than 500 rpm without help from the accelerator) it also causes the car to drive extremely badly as the power seems to surge or be non existent (almost limping) which feels quite dangerous when trying to find somewhere to pull over or get off a roundabout. It also seems to kick out black smoke when the engine is in this lumpy mode. Probably causing the O2 sensors to kick out the two codes mentioned earlier (p0172 and p0175)

     

    What I've found kinda works: by no means a fix but a somewhat odd 'fox' I've found is that if I unplug and plug back in the MAF sensor it almost always starts back up ok and will drive normally for a while although the problem always seems to come back. Either the next journey or the next day. 

     

    What I've tried changing on the car so far: 

     

    -I've tried cleaning my original MAF sensor

     

    -I've bought two more 2nd hand OEM MAF sensors and tried them with no real changes from my original one

     

    -Changed both camshaft position sensors with Delphi ones but not the crankshaft position sensor. 

     

    -changed the PCV valve with an new OEM one 

     

    -Changed the fuel pump with a new OEM one 

     

    -Cleaned the throttle body and the inside of my plenum 

     

    -Replaced the Injectors with 2nd hand OEM ones

     

    -Changed the rocker covers on the left and right side (where being to weep a little oil but nothing crazy) 

     

    - I've changed all spark plugs for NKG iridium tipped ones

     

    - I've changed one of my coil packs that previously had an issue with missing with an new OEM one and check the condition of the others with no real signs of issues.

     

    -I've also cleaned the VVT sensors on the left and the right of the engine

     

    -I've cleaned all four of my O2 sensors but not replaced them.

     

    Just looking for any advice on what to approach next as the lack of codes is really making my life difficult. Anyone had a similar problem? Was tempted to change my crankshaft position sensor next but the lack of a code is keeping my scratching my head, as surly there whoud be a code of it was the crankshaft position sensor that was failing? 

     

    Any help is much appreciated! 

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  5. I've just bought a Milltek backbox and center pipe but no y pipe. My question is considering the Milltek bore diameter is 3 inches and the OEM bore diameter on my y pipe is 2.5 inches what size gasket/flange do I need to safely attach them together? 

  6. 12 minutes ago, ShortPaul said:

    Tale me about it

    True that I keep trying to weigh up going for a second hand premium exhaust that's probably on its last legs or pulling the trigger on a sub £400 ebay masterpiece that probably won't even fit on my car. Bottom line I think I just need to save :bang:

  7. Been offered a japspeed K2 back box for a very good price, my current exhaust is completely stock. My question is can I fit the japspeed K2 back box (3" bore)  to the rest of my current exhaust (which I believe is 2.25" but i could be wrong) with the use of adapters? If so where would I be able to find any adaptors? 

  8. 58 minutes ago, msitpro said:

    Ahh I forgot about the 17" option.

     

    So they are 658 and 668mm tall.

     

    If you really like those wheels and/or they're a great price then maybe go 225/40/19 and 245/40/19 which are 663 and 678mm tall. The taller the combo, the better aesthetically it'll look as there will be reduced/minimal arch gap, without compromising on ground clearance which can be an issue. You could then drop the car on -20mm springs for example and still be close to stock ground clearance and have almost zero arch gap.

     

    You'd move down from a 50 profile tyre as OEM size is 225/235/50/17 to 40 profile, which will look 'sportier' and have less roll, while still maintaining decent comfort.

    Yeah kinda love how the 17's feel on our gloriously bumpy B roads but they definitely look undersized and I feel that bigger would be better. Fair play really appreciate the information, probably won't change the suspension, but I'm definitely leaning towards some 18's as they're that little bit cheaper. 

  9. Thanks very much for the advice guys, really appreciate the detailed write ups! I'll keep looking, as I'm running 17's with the factory OEM JDM wheels should I just look for some nice 18's so I don't have such a big trade off with ride quality? Or would you guys still recommend 19's? 

    • Like 1
  10. Hello guys, I'm after some advice on a set of wheels I'm looking atm. Just curious about weather they will fit my JDM 2004 350z (standard OEM suspension) without any rubbing, horrendous ride quality or problems over speed bumps. Dose anyone else have similar wheels and have any problems? 

     

    The specs for the wheels are: Fronts = 8.5" ET 33 Tyres are Goodyear eagle F1 235/35 19. 6mm Tread. Rears = 9.5" ET35 Tyres are Goodyear eagle f1 265/30 19. 3mm Tread. 

     

    Thanks in advance! 

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...