checkle91

On 17/04/2021 at 17:42, Rich350z said:

Fantastic guide. Thanks. 
Only took me 6 hours - think that’s probably a forum record!

 

Took it for a test drive - all working dandy, get it back, lift the bonnet to check one last time - AND ONE OF THE FANS IS KNOCKING!!!!! AAARRRGGGHHH. 

 

Anyone else had this? I’m assuming I’ve not done one of the bolts up properly 🤷‍♂️

Did you get to the bottom of this? Just repaired my fans and now the drivers side fan is catching on the shroud somewhere when it gets hot and expands.

Both motors and fans went back in the same place, the fans were centralised and the nuts tightened.

On 07/06/2020 at 20:04, RDON said:

been sorting out the garage and came across these, 8 x 350 ray centre caps, all in good condition.  looking for £20 delivered.

 

Do you still have these? Would like to purchase 4 ?

Here is mine, they add a bit of Jap razzle dazzle ! 

On 27/03/2021 at 18:55, checkle91 said:

No holes in sill and metal seems solid so will give it a wire brush and put the rust killer on before undersealing. Is it worth getting the tatty edges sorted or is it likely to cost a lot ? As you can't see the lip when skirt fitted would rust treating and protecting be OK long term?

 

 

 

Had the hole patched up and undersealed. All rust around sill treated and she is as good as new! All for a grand total of... £90 

On 15/03/2021 at 00:14, davidv10 said:

Bump - Reduced to £10, need to get rid of it

I'd have this if you could post? too far for me to collect unfortunately.

No holes in sill and metal seems solid so will give it a wire brush and put the rust killer on before undersealing. Is it worth getting the tatty edges sorted or is it likely to cost a lot ? As you can't see the lip when skirt fitted would rust treating and protecting be OK long term?

9 minutes ago, vroom811 said:

@checkle91 NS wasn't quite as bad.  Just sufrace rust that i was able to treat.

 I'll pull the skirts off over the weekend see what lurks beneath.

10 hours ago, vroom811 said:

I'd advise taking the side skirt off too as there can be rust hiding under there too.  Here's what mine looked like...

Wow, and the offside again. What was the NS like? Was there much muck behind the skirts ?

I have rust treated for now and will try get it sorted in the months ahead. It's a shame as rest of car is solid but looks like nobody has ever cleared the muc from under those sill covers.

7 minutes ago, Azurez33 said:

And for accuracy 12” from suspension component  or suspension mounting and seat/ seatbelt mounting points etc 

You can just see the top of it with the guard fitted. Would where the kidney brace is bolted be taken into account for the 12 inch rule as that is the closest load bearing support I think? or is it literally jacking points, seat belt anchors, suspension etc? Are the insides of wheel arches load bearing?

Rear wheels off for undersealing arches today and under the plastic sill cover which was full of dirt, I discovered some rot. The lower sill is rock solid and so is the metal surrounding the hole but is this classed as structural for MOT or can I just underseal? 

N/S is solid which is usually the worst side.

Anyone else had this issue?

16 minutes ago, Kieran O'Quick said:

Holy crow! Do you park on a beach? 

 

It's not an essential though is it? Could run without?

As far as I'm aware, it is essential to add strength to the car and prevent chassis flexing? I wouldn't run without one! I have owned the car for just over a year and always experienced slight scuttle shake and I believe this explains why. I won't know until the underseal has set and I take the car for a spin. 

Replaced my original W Brace and kidney brackets today (16 years old). Just a bit of advice really for everyone to fully check the condition of the whole brace including either end underneath the plastic covers. My W brace appeared to be structurally sound with some surface rust, with the car even passing its MOT only two months ago however, having had new OEM brace and kidney brackets in the garage for over a year and being on furlough, thought what better time than to fit them and tidy up the underneath of the Z! Here is what I found hidden from view....the W brace was barely attached at one end. New parts undersealed and fitted along with further underseal treatment under the car. Inspect those W braces peeps! Looks can be deceiving.

1 hour ago, ZMANALEX said:

In stock mate. 

 

Excellent! Could you send me over your asking price so I can sort payment please.

On 14/02/2021 at 17:51, ZMANALEX said:

2006 Nissan Facelift 350Z Roadster finished in KYO silver with black leather interior breaking for spares.

REV-UP ENGINE:  CD009 GEARBOX:  RAYS:  BREMBOS:

 

LIST OF PARTS SOLD

 

REV UP ENGINE

R/H BI-XENON HEADLAMP

L/H BI-XENON HEADLAMP

BONNET

R/H FRONT WING

L/H FRONT WING

R/H LED TAIL LIGHT

L/H LED TAIL LIGHT

L/H DOOR CARD

KEYLESS ENTRY MODULE

BONNET HINGES

N/S/F ARCH LINERS

BOSE AMP (BEHIND SEAT)

REAR SHOCK LOWER BOLTS

FRONT BUMPER SLIDER BRACKETS

R/H EXTERIOR DOOR HANDLE

R/H POWER WINDOW MOTOR

O/S/R BUMPER SLIDER BRACKET

BATTERY EARTH STRAP

L/H WASHER COVER & JET

INTAKE AIRBOX COMPLETE

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Alex,

Do you have the part I am trying to hunt down ref my post? 

The strip of fabric trim that velcros across the top of the rear window inside a roadster.

Can't wait to get her out again in the spring...

Fantastic find, have ordered the 1L package! 

4 hours ago, G1en said:

The lithium grease is supposed to be the ticket for things like this, wd40 do a version you can pick up from halfords/toolstation etc. I may be wrong but think silicone spray is better used for rubber/plastic. 

Thanks bud, I'll grab some lithium grease tomorrow and give that a go. 

Thoughts on best form of lube for roadster roof moving parts without inducing excessive grit and muc ? 

-Motorcycle chain wax

-General purpose grease

-White lithium grease spray

-Periodic use of silicone spray

-Other recommended 

1 minute ago, ZMANALEX said:

As per my pm to you.

Check the micro switches before you replace the 5th bow motor.

Cheers Alex, for reference these are the plunger type switches by the latches underneath the leather liner. Thanks for everyone's input always.

Booooooooom! One Roadster roof fully functional again.

I'm glad I didn't waste money on a 5th bow motor. Turns out after spending a few hours checking everything over, it was one of the storage lid down detection switches sticking slightly.......one very happy owner again.

1 hour ago, Ebized said:

Have a look at this to see if it helps:

 

https://f01.justanswer.com/exptech2015/500d3c46-c93a-40a5-a523-1cfece4434c5_5th_bow.pdf

 

 

Cheers for that, have tried recommendation from ZMANALEX and also your TSB. The wire was in the correct location, removed refitted as per doc but still no joy. The 5th bow does operate during roof opening and closing until the very last bit where it should come down onto the lid. Roof warning light on dash constantly lit whether roof fully open or partially closed. Does this still seem like a 5th bow motor issue or could it be micro switch or roof control module related?

Roof operation video: 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1V5gk9ViblGGenzhj_N4OcvanXOjCOboK/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VCFSrEHJrrsebkU5icLjyE8NExfScwYE/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VD4QHGpLvG3NS-85iDEuWpGKvagiYhzD/view?usp=drivesdk

2 minutes ago, ShortPaul said:

Have done, recommendation is to get cabin warm and try again as could be cold weather but not too sure with the roof light staying lit constantly seems to be some sort of fault.

So found this video, this is where the roof gets stuck. This guy mentions roof control module and micro switches but can't work out which it was that fixed his problem.