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Stan350Z

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Posts posted by Stan350Z

  1. I bought these direct from the team owner through Facebook. Gutted I couldn’t fit them onto my own car especially having driven miles to collect them in stormy weather with 3 kids in tow! It was only when I discovered the end of the shocks were a different joint that lead to my research direct with Ohlins (who were incredibly helpful). 
     

    Made full sense since the team ran both 350z and 370z race cars.

     

    As per pictures these have never been used or fitted. Good opportunity to get your hands on some excellent kit without paying full price.

  2. I recently bought a set of Ohlins coilovers from Team Kennedy racing team who had 2 spare sets they no longer needed. They’re still in their packaging and boxed (only removed from the box to verify items and take photos) Unfortunately for me despite the packaging displaying the correct package number (NIS MI00) for a 350Z I have now verified direct with Ohlins that the part numbers I have correspond to the package NIS GQ00 for the 370Z. I can provide the email correspondence received from Ohlins to confirm.
     

    Unfortunately for me they’re no good for my 350 so I’m looking to sell these on to fund the correct set. 
     

    From my research these are arguable some of the best coilovers on the market for a dramatic improvement in handling performance without significant compromise to comfort. Ride height can be adjusted from as little as -5mm from stock all the way to -35mm. 

    Reduced from £2100 to £1600, based in East London E15.

     

    Some links for reference below:

     

    https://www.torqen.uk/specials/ohlins-coilovers/nissan/13765-ohlins-autosport-edc-cancellation-kits-cancellation-kit-audi-r8-2015-nis-gq00.html?search_query=Ohlins+Road+%26+Track+Nissan+370Z+(2008-2013)&results=1


    https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/www.evo.co.uk/features/16903/what-can-hlins-suspension-do-on-track%3famp

     

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    • Like 1
  3. Just adding my 2 cents - tried Goodyear F1 Supersports on the rears for the first time at Snetterton this Wednesday and it was very wet. They were very impressive in the wet - in a recent test they performed significantly better than mp4s in the wet in a M2c. Obviously road legal and won’t be as track focused as the semi slicks above. 

     

     

  4. Apologies in advance for my inexperience with suspension tuning.

     

    I’m booked in at the end of the month to have eibach ARBs and Whiteline drop links installed front and back for my weekend roadster that makes occasional open pit appearances.

     

    I have plans by the end of the year to order ohlins r&t or meisterR GT1s (esp after reading that great thread from Jerrick), then running 18x8.5J and 245 Square.

     

    My question: what are the benefits of aftermarket arms/links/bars? Are they lighter, more durable or more adjustable than stock? I’ve read that the stock parts are already relatively lightweight (25% lighter than 300zx) are these aftermarket parts more commonly purchased therefore as oem replacements due to wear and tear? 

     

    Most importantly do I need the additional adjustability to optimise the geometry once I install the above coilovers/wheels sizes as I plan to get it all installed and set up professionally by well know suspension specialists (thanks ekona for prior recommendation).

     

    Thanks in advance for any contribution.

  5. 1 hour ago, ZMANALEX said:

    If you are proposing to spend £250.00 on a pair of tyres, might be a plan to get the correct size: ;)

    Funnily enough those tyres would be going into the 8.5J Rays you sold me - planning to put these on the front and replace the rears with matching tyres. I’ve chosen a 40 profile for added rigidity. 

     

    After much deliberation I’m going to give a square set up a try on the track. Both Dan and Martin have given some great advice and Dan’s going to be disappointed with my decision but his input has inspired me to invest into getting the geometry properly done somewhere specialist in combination with ARBs, coilovers and camber arms to dial out any snap oversteer. 

     

    I did consider running 255/35s square but understand these are max on 8.5Js as opposed to ideal, and with a NA DE with no head work the extra rubber probably doesn’t justify the weight.

  6. I’ve seen an advert online for Yoko AD08Rs, claims to be brand new with stickers and manufacturer dates of 2018.

     

    Any risk of fake tyres out there, or any other notable risks?

     

    Price is £250 per pair of 245/40r18s collected so not unbelievably cheap but good value nonetheless.

     

    Any opinions?

  7. I can verify mine gets stuck in cold weather. Although if you’re desperate to drop the top on a cool day I have managed to blast the heater for 10 mins then after several attempts of opening and closing it sometimes catches and opens... not the finest look but has worked in the past!

    • Like 1
  8. Thought I’d bring up this thread as I’m on my way to moving to a 8.5J square set up after buying and refurbing some new rear rays to fit when my current tyres wear out.

     

    The Z is a very occasional weekend toy and will be seen more and more frequently on a track. 

     

    I’ve therefore upgraded my plans to go from Goodyear EF1 AS3s to Yoko AD08Rs - question is whether to go with 245/40r18s all round or whether to push to the limit and fit 255/35r18s all round. I’ve seen on a chart on 8.5Js ideal width is 245 and max is 255 - as prices are similar any opinions on which sizes would provide most grip whilst keeping grip levels progressive rather than snappy?

     

    Also would 255s actually fit without issues on the front?

  9. 2 minutes ago, davey_83 said:

    Headers, cams, valves, headwork - all big bucks. 

    Yes these are all listed neatly on a stage significantly further down the line, I’d be investing into handling before I venture into “stage 2 engine mods” as per my geekyp spreadsheet.

     

    Would a remap be worth it with the latest additions or do you think the benefits would be realised from the existing map?

  10. I had my first remap done by Horsham after the usual bolt ons - filter, plenum spacer, HFCs, cobra cat back - was very pleased with the results.

     

    I’ve since fitted a Nismo clutch and lightweight flywheel and have a velocity stack and AMS lightweight pulley kit and new OEM belt to fit next time the Z goes in - is it time for another remap or is the money wasted for the minor additional mods?

     

    I’ve considered the NWP TB and MREV2 but they don’t appear to be good value for a NA DE. Any other suggestions before another remap?

  11. Glad I read this post, some great points. So often when the Z is in the garage getting it’s latest £xxxx treatment I’m already on my phone shopping for the next step. Enjoying what we have should be this year’s resolution.

     

    With that out of the way 2019 is the year for handling for our weekend/occasional track Z Roadster - already have an extra pair of rear rays (thanks Zmanalex) that are now refurbed which will go on the front when the current tyres wear out. Plan is to wrap them in GY AS3s and fit them with Olins and Eibach ARBs together with alignment and weight balancing.

     

    Handling package has just edged ahead of an acceleration upgrade consisting of MREV2 plenum, velocity stack, lightweight pulleys, another remap and 3.9 FD... this lot will need to be 2020 unless I could be convinced to swap them round.

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