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evest

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Posts posted by evest

  1. I haven't mate, but may do soon in case it is indeed a wonky MAF causing these issues....

     

    I think the codes may be to do with engine load etc... so an incorrect airflow reading at the MAF might explain it, plus the lean report from bank 1.

  2. Hi all,

     

    So, I've been chasing a problem on my car for a while now which seems to come and go a bit. Rough idle, mainly when warmed up, which sometimes stalls the car when decelerating to a stop. Codes P1273, 1283, 1281 have cropped up at different times, but it isn't the O2 sensors themselves as they were replaced with brand new OEM ones. I thought I had eventually solved it, all explained in an earlier thread. But I guess I haven't...

     

    My only remaining thoughts now are that it is being caused by a short in the harness somewhere.

     

    The one bit I never did answer and which consistently appears when I have this issue is pictured below. Does anybody know what this information means or how/where to decode it? I've spent a fair bit of time on the internet trying to figure it out, but no joy. Is the writing on the wall and I simply need to have it plugged into the mothership at Nissan?


    Cheers! :thumbs:

     

    Last time is was:

     

    TID:$4e CID:$0f

     

    Max: 33,067

    Test result value: 33,267

     

    The reading below seems to be a similar issue against but against different sensor.

     

    Screenshot_20211003-161632_Torque.jpg.a21d7c26fe104eea4d9f742ef073e1c8.jpg

  3. As per the title. The tube is in excellent condition, couple of scratches which you won't see when installed. Please note:

     

    The coupling sleeve is silicone tubing. TBH this was was mainly to match my engine bay colour scheme, but it is also more robust than the original rubber piece which was a bit flimsy in my opinion.

     

    You'll need 2 x large hose clips (see engine bay pic), about 3.5" Very cheap from Halfords etc...

     

    The condition of the cone is as pictured. It works fine bit the rubber is starting to perish so you may want to consider adding a new cone at some point. But still works out a lot cheaper than a complete brand new intake.

     

    £75 FB_IMG_1586768232743.jpg.bd9cf8e363b34a695d1b8fc44bae8999.jpgplus postage, or free collection.

     

    Location: CW3 near Crewe

     

    Thanks for looking 👍

     

    20210926_142620.jpg.d431442d770638c03b49d08db00cbd16.jpg20210926_142630.jpg.618de1c535153f8af63ff39aa0c50804.jpg20210926_142636.jpg.7816f821283799bf0a909b6268018591.jpgFB_IMG_1586768232743.jpg.bd9cf8e363b34a695d1b8fc44bae8999.jpg

  4. Hi mate, thanks for looking. The meshes are fine, no leaks that I'm aware of and no rust. I'm away at the moment but can take some close up pics at weekend.

     

    I'd like to let the ad run a bit longer to see if there's any interest in the complete system, but if not I'll come back to you. Otherwise it's a little harder to sell the mid-pipe and back box as it won't fit a stock y-pipe.

     

    Cheers 👍 

  5. Hello all,

     

    Here for sale is my Cobra Sport UK exhaust - this is the resonated version with TP38 style tips.

     

    Complete cat-back system, so includes back box, mid-pipe and Y-pipe. These go for about £900-1000, these days.

     

    First fitted in 2010 and taken off the car in 2015 as I chose to fit an Invidia. So it has sat in my garage for a while but it's in good condition, but does have a weld repair to one of the tail pipes into the back box (pictured below - not the prettiest weld but it's good and strong and not visible when fitted on the car). The flexis are in very good condition. The black stuff on the mid pipe is just a melted carrier bag or something, couldn't get it off!

     

    Pictures below showing current condition. There is also a youtube link, this is my own car just after the exhaust was first installed at Cobra in Sheffield, so you can hear what is sounds like (with standard cats).

     

    £300

     

    Location: CW3 (near Crewe, Cheshire). Collection only due to size, but willing to meet up within a reasonable distance.

     

    Finally - to fit this you will need to supply your own gaskets. You will need 2 x 2.5" diameter (Y-pipe to cats), and 2 x 3" diameter (each end of mid-pipe). You might also need new exhausts nuts and bolts if your old ones are too rusty to re-use. 


    All the best :thumbs:

     

     

     

    20210918_162005.jpg.ff7c05e61c451d06f54fda2ba383ee19.jpg20210918_161904.jpg.9a2a6fe795bffa80d5ba831f3492433f.jpg20210918_162012.jpg.c62514e3907d9e0abfad661eecfabe42.jpg20210918_162018.jpg.dc0dbeedaf86f11295f2ee5f66fd2a19.jpg20210918_162032.jpg.96dfe8e193bd2b082e3df0e0baafbde7.jpg20210918_162059.jpg.7b030493da360681b2e3693d1dc3cda2.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

  6. A final update to this thread - hopefully it might help somebody else who is having repeat trouble codes.

     

    So having replaced the upstream O2 Sensors and the MAF, the fault code P1283 and associated Mode $6 fault came back yet again; although the car was driving very well and without the symptoms of poor idle and stalling when coming to a halt. So it appeared the actual fault had been repaired by the car was still not happy. Very frustrating, but I decided to search the Nissan Technical Bulletins, and I found this:

     

     Purchase Online Subscription to View this ItemSubject: SB "Nissan"; Must Clear Self Learning After Repairing DTC P01273/P1274/P1283
    Summary of NTB04126:

    IF YOU CONFIRM:
    A MIL "ON" with any of the following DTC(s) stored:
    * P1273 / P1283 (A/F Sensor Bank-1 / 2 -Lean Monitor)
    * P1274 / P1284 (A/F Sensor Bank-1 / 2 -Rich Monitor)
    ACTIONS:
    1. Repair the vehicle as necessary.
    * Refer to ASISTfor diagnostic and repair information.
    2. Clear the engine ECU Self-Learning.
    IMPORTANT: If Self-Learning Is Not Cleared:
    * The DTC may be stored again; even if no malfunction exists.
    * This could result in the customer returning with the same incident
    ("come-back" repair).

    See this bulletin for further detail.

     

    The Nissan Technical Service Bulletins can be found here:

     

    https://www.nissan-techinfo.com/TSB/TSB_xml/nmIndex.aspx?tsbType=TSB

     

    (Note - you can only see the summary of the bulletin unless you pay a subscription to see the whole thing.)

     

    The reset procedure in question is NOT a simple ECU reset. It is the "mixture ratio self-learning" reset, which I understand resets all the stored fuel trims.

     

    You can find it here:

     

    https://www.nissanhelp.com/diy/z/projects/nissan_z_clear_self_learning.php

     

    In short, you unplug the MAF, start the engine for a few seconds - which throws a MAF DTC P0102. Plug MAF back in, clear the fault codes and let it idle for 10 minutes (with optional coffee). After this, it should be fine. In my case, with the MAF unplugged the slip/TCS and ABS lights came on too, but after turning off and on again, they did not return.

     

    Since doing this, I have driven the car a number of times and my symptoms and fault codes have not returned and the car is driving very well. The Mode $6 fault indication has not returned either - I never found out what the value meant but it seems to be staying within the approved limits.

     

    So if you have P1273, P1283, P1274, P1284, make sure you do the procedure above after you have fixed the underlying fault.

     

    All the best :thumbs:

     
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    • Thanks 2
  7. Well I think I have now resolved this - replaced MAF. My other car is a Nissan Juke (aka the dogmobile), which uses the same MAF as a zed, so I swapped them over.

     

    No more stalling and idle is very smooth, the petrol smell on start up also seems to have gone away. After a few journeys, the DTC (P1283) has not returned and the Mode 6 issue above is now a pass every time. I will keep monitoring it, but clearly looks like MAF was at fault and messing up the fuel ratio. The car did not detect a faulty MAF though, and the fault was manifest as an upstream O2 sensor issue.

     

    I've yet to test the old MAF in the Juke, but any problems there will definitely confirm it as the culprit.

     

    Like I say, all seems good now, and with 170K on the clock, the car is running great!

  8. Ps - if it is a knackered MAF:

     

    Could this translate into improper O2 sensor readings, throwing the fault codes indicated? I'd have thought MAF would have it's own fault code though.

     

    Would the rough idle problem be apparent on cold start?

     

    I've had a dead battery which has been jump started and now charged up through driving. Have the few good runs been a result of the car running from default map, after a period of which the problem returns?

     

    Sorry for all the questions, just trying to figure this thing out!

  9. Hi all,

     

    So really stuck here, I have a persistent problem - I may need to bite the bullet and head off for a full diagnostic, but hoping somebody can help me.

     

    2003 UK Zed, so DE non rev-up, about 170K miles

     

    Car was basically starting ok and driving ok - but after warming up (and I think completing its various 'loops'??) the car would struggle when slowing to a halt at traffic lights etc, sometimes stalling. When warm it would also idle rough and sometimes stall - but not always.

     

    Fault codes indicted problem with upstream O2 sensors, which I have replaced both with new OEM ones. I have also just put in new spark plugs and having stripped down to removing the fuel rails and intake manifold, the fuel injectors all seem ok. I believe the MAF is ok but not sure how to verify this. No obvious sign of air leaks or fuel leaks, but car can smell a bit petrol-y at start up (more than it ever did before).

     

    I've reset ECU and done the various other idle and throttle learning procedures.

     

    After a few short drives without issue, I today did a slightly longer one and the problem has come back - fault codes are now pending as:

     

    P1281

    P1283

     

    and Mode 6:

     

    TID:$4e CID:$0f

     

    Max: 33,067

    Test result value: 33,267

     

    FAIL

     

    anybody know what this mode 6 code means?

     

    I can't see me being unlucky enough to have installed a duff new O2 sensor - could it be a wiring problem further along? Any other ideas as to this problem?

     

    Really stuck!

  10. Well, I sourced some new spacers from Horsham Developments (Cheers Jez). However...

     

    ...on removing the upper and lower plenum, and the intake manifold, guess what I found nestled in the 'V'.... its managed a couple of thousand miles under there!

     

    :doh: :lol:

  11. 3 hours ago, reeceybeaney said:

    Yeah no worries at all, just make sure you don't tighten the plenum down too much there as it won't be supported, under that position, and could crack if not careful! 

    No worries :thumbs:

    Sage advice, see below! :doh:

     

    heard it ping as i unbolted it. Although i think my rubbing strut bar may have been responsible for this. Fleabay to the rescue!

    20200401_000435.jpg

  12. 8 minutes ago, reeceybeaney said:

    That's frustrating! I made plenum spacer kits for a while, although I'm out of the workshop for the foreseeable... if you get really stuck and I'm back at work, I'll turn one up for you :)

    Cheers pal, if nothing turns up I'll carry on without it (not that im driving anywhere anyway!) and perhaps contact you when life gets back to normal? 

  13. Hi all,

     

    2003 DE, I have a motordyne 5/16 plenum spacer but have lost (for good) one of the internal plastic spacers/washers. I've made do without it for a bit but not ideal to continue.

     

    I guess unlikely anybody has spares lying around but worth a try!

     

    Failing that, any full second hand plenum spacer kits on offer?

     

    Cheers! 

  14. On 14/10/2019 at 12:33, fijifixit said:

    I would definitely check them gaskets first :)

     

    I think you were correct mate.

     

    I replaced bank 2 gasket between manifold and cat. The old one was completely burnt through on one side.

     

    Have done several journeys, few hundred miles, and the stalling problem has gone away. No EML and idle is normal. The P1283 had not returned.

     

    Pending P1273 on bank 1 but I didn't have time to do that gasket - once I have I think this will be fully resolved.

     

    Cheers! :thumbs:

  15. Thanks mate, appreciate the input - I'll certainly replace the gaskets as they've been on there a few years.

     

    Seems odd that a leak there would have this impact on the upstream sensor - but if it fixed your issue i guess it must do!

  16. Hello all,

     

    Bit stumped - wonder if anyone can help me? Car is suffering a rough idle and also occasionally cutting out when coming of the throttle and coasting into a stop - not every time though; the revs sometimes dip almost to 0, and then jump back up to normal - other times the car will stall. I do have fault code P1283 which I know may relate to one of the upstream O2 sensors, but I'm not convinced (yet) that the sensor is necessarily the problem.

     

    So apart from the car struggling at idle, particularly when coming of the throttle, I've sat and monitored the car at warm idle, as follows:

     

    Car idles warm at about 8-900rpm which I believe is normal.  However, like clockwork every 10 seconds it dips to about 500-700rpm and struggles for 5 seconds before returning to normal. This also had an effect on the sensor readings:

    (approximately)

    Bank 1, sensor 1 = 0.25V (when idle rpm dips, this goes to 0)

    Bank 1, sensor 2 = 0.75V (when rpm dips, this rises to about 0.9)

    Bank 2, sensor 1 = 0.25V (as above, dips to 0)

    Bank 2, sensor 2 = 0.75V (as above, rises to about 0.9)

     

    It feels like the sensors are responding correctly, or at least working. My plugs were done about 25K miles ago. I recently cleaned the MAF sensor and I don't have any obvious signs of a vacuum leak. Do I have a fuelling issue - injectors? Car seems to be pulling fine at normal speed and acceleration has felt normal.

     

    At the moment - I'm inclined to try a new MAF sensor and do all the reset procedures. Any clue from the info above though?

     

    Car is a 2003 DE at 165K miles, using normal 5w30 oil. The only other thing I changed recently was putting in a HKS   filter (standard airbox).

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