Now I know there’s some that say the transmission is a sealed unit and that it is maintenance free and the oil should last the lifetime of the vehicle, but my thoughts are that nothing lasts for ever and the working properties of oils change with use and time therefore it should be changes periodically. My Z is a 2011 with 80k on the clock and the odds are that the oil is the same oil as when it first left the factory. 

This is my first automatic so don’t have any past reference to how they operate or behave. The car drove fine in both Drive and in manual mode if not slightly clunky and hesitant when in manual and being driven spiritually shall we say. Now let me say to those who say you don’t need to change the oil in you transmission, no you don’t but if you do it make the world of difference. The car now drive seamlessly in all gears, smooth transition between gears in manual mode and more responsive in drive mode. It’s well worth the money changing he oil even every couple of years. 

This is a guide to changing the transmission oil on a 2011 370z with an automatic transmission. It there are many related videos on YouTube. 

If you’re going to tackle this yourself you will need the following items. 

Oil drain pan

some sort of transfer pump ( about £8 on eBay)

6 litres of  Matic-S Automatic Transmission Fluid. You may only need 5 but I bought extra for topping up, (your choice)

19mm socket and wrench 

5mm Allen key either to fit a wrench or just an Allen key will do it shouldn’t be too tight. 

Small spirit level.

And a infrared thermometer (this is needed to check the working temperature before draining any excess oil.

Firstly if you don’t have access to a ramp or garage pit jack up the car both front and back keeping it level. I allowed mine to be slightly lower at the rear to aid more drainage because I wasn’t removing the oil pan. 

Once on the stands, turn the car on and allow the transmission oil to warm up. I let it get to 84.9f but any warm temp will do it just allows the oil to drain more easily. 

There are two plug nuts that require unfastening a 19mm nut which is to the rear of the oil pan. This is the drain plug and a 5mm Allen key stud to the front. This is both the location where you refill the transmission and allow any excess oil to be drained following the filling process.

Loosen the 5mm Allen stud but don’t remove it.  Now place a oil pan or bucket under the 19mm nut, remove it and allow the oil to be drained out there should be approximately 4.5 / 5 litres that comes out. 

Whilst the oil is draining out remove the 5mm plug in preparation for filling. Once all of the oil has been drained replace the19mm plug and tighten but not too tight.

 Now pump at least 5 litres of oil back into the transmission. Once you have done this leave the pipe connected to the filling hole and start the car engine for a minute or two to allow the oil to be transferred around the transmission.

at this point you need to sit in the car place your foot on the brake pedal and go through the transmission positions starting in Park holding it in that position for 30 seconds, the reverse leave for 30 seconds, neutral 30 seconds and then drive. Then do this in reverse order. (I did this twice)

Now leave the car running and allow the transmission to get to it’s working temperature which is between 90f and 110f

Once at operating temperature and whilst the engine is still running remove the filling tune and allow any excess oil to drain out back into the oil pan. If nothing comes out you haven’t got enough oil in the transmission so put more in. Then allow any excess to drain out. There should be just a trickle of oil coming out. Replace the 5mm plug and that’s it.

The oil change took me a couple of hours and I would say anyone who can change their own engine oil and has the tools can easily do this. It’s well worth doing..

Thanks for reading  

Martin.

Recently I’ve been having an intermittent issue with the roof open and close switch on my 370 so decided to try and trace the fault by firstly trying to identify whether or not it is a switch fault or something else.

The fault occurs mainly after being stood overnight or for a period of time. The first time it happened I depressed the open side of the switch and nothing happened . The windows didn’t come down and there was no audible bleep so I decided to explore the switch. 

I removed the switch housing by pulling firmly upwards the cup holder witch gave me access to the wiring. After depressing the open side of the button and giving the wiring a little wriggle I heard the bleep and the roof opened. This to me suggests a fault on the switch somewhere. I put everything back together and the roof work perfectly as it should. I went out, roof down and opened and closed it several time with no issues. I put the car way in the garage overnight and returned the next day. Low and behold same thing, head scratching time. I repeated the same process but this time opened up the switch completely to expose the rocker switch mechanism and it’s contacts. Nothing seemed broken or misplaced so put it back together, connected the wiring and yes you guessed it bleeped and the roof stated to work again. Now I haven’t been able to confirm the switch is at fault because I don’t know how to and I haven’t been able to source a replacement switch to compare it. There are some second hand switches for the 350’s but I’m not sure these are compatible (maybe someone could enlighten me)

anyway i thought what happens if I put the roof down and can’t get it back up? I’m stuck so here’s how I’ve buy-passed the switch in case of an emergency. 

You will need two sewing pins and a small length of wire bent double with the two ends exposed.

pull up the plastic housing via the cup pic 1. This is only held in by a few clips no need foe any screwdrivers or prying tools pic 2. Unclip the wiring from the cup pic 3/4 this helps manoeuvre the unit better. Unplug the connector by depressing the small tab and pulling it out of the switch itself pic 5. Insert the pins into the two slots pic 6 and touch both pins with the wire as in pic 7 this opens the hood. To close the hood put the pins in the slots in pic 8 and again connect together with the wire.

if there is anyone out there who could add anything please do so also if you can advise on whether the 350 roof switch would work it would be appreciated..

Martin.

Range Launch - July 2009 (deliveries)

• 370Z 18” wheels
• GT Pack + 19” Forged Rays, heated leather seats, 6CD Bose, cruise control, rev matching
• GT Ultimate + Persimmon suede, sat-nav

Revised Suspension - April 2011 (announced)

• Euro-tuned dampers (by NTCE at Cranfield UK)
• More noise insulation
• Rear view camera gains Satnav 
• TPMS

Minor facelift - Oct 2012 (deliveries)

• New bumpers & DRLs
• Instrument binnacle gets black background
• New Meguma Red and Midnight Blue colour options
• New 19” wheels & base Coupe gets same 18” as Roadster
• Red brake calipers
• Believed to mark introduction of revised oil gallery gasket fixing the low warm idle oil pressure problem.

Revised Suspension - Sep 2014 (on sale)

• Revised spring and damper rates
• More noise insulation
• New ‘Spinal’ seats (shell construction)
• Gunmetal 18” wheels

Minor facelift - Aug 2018 (on sale)

• Exedy clutch (lighter pedal)
• Revised lights
• Black door handles, rear bumper
• New 19” wheels
• New metallic red colour option

Original PRs:

    Here are all the official announcements about the 370Z with specs etc, what changed at each facelift:

    2009: Initial launch of the 370Z with three grades of standard, GT Pack and GT Ultimate

https://uk.nissannews.com/en-GB/releases/release-13995-new-nissan-370z-pricing-and-grades

     2009: Roadster released

https://uk.nissannews.com/en-GB/releases/release-14078-all-new-2010-nissan-370z-roadster-adds-open-air

     2009: 370Z Yellow edition

https://uk.nissannews.com/en-GB/releases/release-14193-latest-370z-puts-other-coupes-in-the-shade

     2010: 370Z Black edition

https://uk.nissannews.com/en-GB/releases/release-14460-370z-back-to-black

     2011: European specific suspension changes

https://uk.nissannews.com/en-GB/releases/release-79276-nissan-370z-model-year-2011

     2011: GT Edition special edition

https://uk.nissannews.com/en-GB/releases/release-80647-nissan-370z-gt-edition-a-celebration

     2012: Minor facelift (believed to be when the engine oil gallery gasket was upgraded)

https://uk.nissannews.com/en-GB/releases/release-96048-revised-370z-range-delivers-even-greater-value-style-and-entertainment-to-driving-enthusiasts

     2014: New seats, revised suspension again, more sound insulation (at the bottom)

https://uk.nissannews.com/en-GB/releases/release-125052-nissan-turns-up-the-excitement-with-fully-updated-370z-nismo

     2017: Minor facelift, Exedy clutch

https://uk.nissannews.com/en-GB/releases/release-426201032-new-updates-keep-nissan-370z-fresh-for-my18

     2019: 50th Anniversary special edition

https://uk.nissannews.com/en-GB/releases/release-3224a3bf335e58101aa8e401d5020712-nissan-celebrates-50-years-of-the-z-car-with-2020-370z

Many people in the USA have done this mod which takes about 10mins to do without any issue whatsoever and of course is replaceable in the same amount of time should you require to do so. I have lifted the pics from the American site cos my camera battery flat, so everything in pics is on the opposite side on our cars ( passenger side ) under battery cover

I first removed the battery cover held by push clips...

Remove the battery bracket. There are 4 plastic clip holding it. Pop the plastic clip open with a flat headed screw driver and pull it out. Slide the bracket towards the passenger side wing as the bracket is under the stiffening bar.

Remove HALF of the plastic weather strip. The weather strip goes all the way to the driver side so you don't have to remove the entire thing. There are 4-5 clips that needs to unplug. To remove them, gently twists and pull upwards (these clips are plastic so they will break).

You can now fully access the fuse box. Pop open the two clips and slide the box upwards.

Open the box and locate the fuse and remove it.

The first picture shows where I pulled the fuse and the second one denotes it's location in the box.

MAKE SURE THE CAR IS IN 'ACCESSORY' MODE FIRST!!!!

The procedure to reset Pop-Up Hood light manually is:

1) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

2) wait about 7 sec, the Pop-Up light goes off ---> Press Start Button immediatly (Switch Off)

3) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

4) wait about 7 sec, the Pop-Up light goes off, Flashes 3 times, when goes off press Start Button immediatly (Switch Off)

5) Repeat steps 1-2-3-4

6) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

7) The Pop-Up light blinks slowly

8) Turn Off

A Link with the Nissan procedure: http://www.uprev.com... Hood Reset.png

Edited by Flashgordon, 24 November 2012 - 17:13.

I hope you can all give it some feedback.

Thanks very much in advance guys

Jon

I posted a video on youtube about how to change the front pads of the sport package brakes...

If anyone wants to check it out and leave feedback that would be amazing...

Thanks in advance guys!!!

Much Love

Jon

Love your friendly neighbourhood Jon

It can also be used to help fix hatch popping issues

There is a weight in the hatch lid to "help close" the hatch for (I'm assuming) petit women in Japan

Tools needed:

Pry tool

10mm Socket wrench

Step one: Remove the screws that hold the cargo hover to the hatch by lifting the cover:

Step two: Remove the 10mm screw

Step three: Repeat on other side

Step four: Use panel tool to pry around the hatch cover closest to you:

There are 8, equally spaced, orange clips holding the closest edge on:

Step five: Jam your hand in, you'll see some white clips holding the back in.

There are 5 (five) tabs

Step seven: Remove the 4 (four) 10mm screws holding this box on the hatch:

Step eight: Admire this stupid weight and put the panel back on the car.

I have weighed this ballast and it is 2.5 lbs, assuming you not completely weedy the hatch still closes easily with slightly more effort but pops open every time with one press of button, even with the fabric hatch cover attached to hooks.

http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/nissan/370z/62591/used-buyers-guide-nissan-370z

There are a few DIY guides over on the370z.com most of which tell you to take the centre console to bits. Thankfully there is one that shows you the easy option which I used.

I thought I'd post up a quick DIY of my own though just to highlight a couple of small niggles I came across to help anyone else avoid them in the future.

Firstly, I got a small plastic pry and stuck it beneath the corner of the button (beneath the black plastic ring),

Popped the button forward...it took a little bit more force than I was expecting. It will click out and will look like this.

Then unclip the little brown harness thing (no idea what it's called) by pressing down the tab, again this took a bit of force to pull them apart.

Next came the part that took me a wee while to sort. You need to remove the old button from the grey and black surround....on first impressions this looked incredibly straight forward....just press the 2 tabs at the side in and press the button out. I still can't believe how stiff this was. I ended up pressing the 2 tabs in, held the top of the surround with a finger and then pressed the bottom of the button up. Retrospectively, it probably would have been easier to have used a flat surface to press it up with. Make sure you press the existing button UP out of the surround.

Anyway, then you just press the new button in to place, plug the harness back in and bang you're done.

If the windows do not close automatically or the power window automatic function (closing only) does not operate properly, perform the following procedure to initialize the power window system:

1. Push the ignition switch to the ON position.

2. Close the door.

3. Open the window completely by operating the power window switch.

4. Pull the power window switch and hold it to close the window, and then hold the switch more than 3 seconds after the window is closed completely.

5. Release the power window switch. Operate the window by the automatic function to confirm the initialization is complete.

6. Perform steps 2 through 5 above for other windows.

hope this helps you guys;

350Z manual/s

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/

370Z manual/s

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/

G35 manual/s

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/

G37 manuals

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G37/

http://www.nicoclub....FSM/370Z/Coupe/

Vehicle Speed Sensing Auto Door Lock

All doors are locked when the vehicle speed reaches 24 km/h (15 MPH) or more.

BCM outputs the lock signal to all door lock actuators when it detects that the ignition switch is turned ON, all

doors are closed and the vehicle speed received from the combination meter via CAN communication

becomes 24 km/h (15 MPH) or more.

The automatic door lock function ON/OFF can be switched by performing the following operation.

1. Close all doors (door switch OFF)

2. Turn ignition switch ON

3. Press and hold the door lock and unlock switch for 5 seconds or more in the lock direction within 20 seconds

after turning the ignition switch ON.

4. The switching is complete when the hazard lamp blinks.

OFF → ON : 2 blinks

ON → OFF : 1 blink

IGN OFF Interlock Door Unlock

All doors are unlocked when the power supply position is changed from ON to OFF.

BCM outputs the unlock signal to all door lock actuators when it detects that the power supply position is

changed from ignition switch ON to OFF.

The automatic door lock/unlock function ON/OFF can be switched by performing the following operation.

1. Close all doors below (door switch OFF)

2. Turn ignition switch ON

3. Press and hold the door lock and unlock switch for 5 seconds or more in the unlock direction within 20

seconds after turning the ignition switch ON.

4. The switching is complete when the hazard lamp blinks.

OFF → ON : 2 blinks

ON → OFF : 1 blink

Selective Unlock - Enabled

When an LOCK signal is transmitted from Intelligent Key, all doors and fuel lid are locked.

When an UNLOCK signal is transmitted from Intelligent Key once, driver side door and fuel lid are unlocked.

Then, if an UNLOCK signal is transmitted from Intelligent Key again within 60 seconds, all other doors are

unlocked.

Selective Unlock - Disabled

When an LOCK signal is transmitted from Intelligent Key, all doors and fuel lid are locked.

When an UNLOCK signal is transmitted from Intelligent Key once, all doors and fuel lid are locked.

Enabling/Disabling Selective Unlock

When LOCK and UNLOCK signals are sent from the Intelligent Key for more than 5 seconds at the same time, hazard warning lamp blinks and Selective Unlock feature will toggle (enabled -> disabled or disabled -> enabled)

This guide will show you how to replace the front indicator bulbs on your 370z. Typically this is for swapping out the amber bulbs for silver ones such as in this case - Phillips SilverVision bulbs.

First collect the tools and equipment required:

• 
  [*:1h252x2t]Bulbs
  [*:1h252x2t]Small flat head screw driver

1. First jack the car up so that the wheel sits lower in the wheel arch to give more space.

2. Pop the following 2 clips

3. Pull the wheel arch liner down from the top to gain access to the bulb holder. You will need to pull it away from the other half which it overlaps. Twist the bulb holder 90 degrees and remove the bulb with a tissue or MF cloth. Replace the bulb with the new one and replace the bulb holder.

4. Push the arch liner back in and replace the pop rivit clips. There is a holder for the arch liner on the outside of the wheel arch (nearest you), which you will have to feed the liner into. It has a split down the middle, which is where the liner goes, it does not go on top of the clip/holder, but in the slot.

Sit back and enjoy your new bulbs

Before:

After:

Off:

On:

This guide will show you how to replace the rear indicator bulbs on your 370z. Typically this is for swapping out the amber bulbs for silver ones such as in this case - Phillips SilverVision bulbs.

First collect the tools and equipment required:

• 
  [*:3q0aje8j]Bulbs
  [*:3q0aje8j]Trim removal tool
  [*:3q0aje8j]10mm socket
  [*:3q0aje8j]8mm spanner (rachet spanner makes it much easier!)
  [*:3q0aje8j]Small flat head screw driver

1. First pop the boot lid up and pull back the weather seal. You need to remove the seal all the way from one boot strut to the other. Then remove the small trim piece covering the fixing bolts on the rear cluster, and remove the 2x 10mm bolts on the light cluster.

2. Pop the 4 D clips for the cargo net. Do this by placing the flat head scredriver in the slot and twisting it. Pull the centre piece back (not all the way out), then remove the clip as one piece.

3. Remove the back trim piece in the boot which houses the boot light. You may need to remove the light by prying it away from the trim piece with the screwdriver. Remove the hole trim piece by popping the 4x fixings shown in the picture below with the trim removal tool. Then disconnect the light if you havent already done so.

4. Next pop the small clip on the right of the next image and remove the trim piece. This is done by popping the 4/5 clips shown in the next image. You dont need to remove this trim piece completely, just enough to get access to the nut that needs undoing.

5. Undo the nut that is on this bolt. This allows the light cluster to be removed.

6. Remove the light cluster by giving it a tug directly backwards towards you. It might take a bit of effort, but if you have undone the 2x 10mm and 1x 8mm nuts/bolts then it will come off. Once removed, turn the indicator bulb holder 90 degrees and it will come loose. Remove the bulb with a bit of tissue or MF cloth so not to touch it and replace with new bulb.

7. Replace the bulb holder back into the light cluster and test.

8. Replace everything in the opposite order of removing it after doing both sides. Stand back and enjoy your new bulbs

Before:

After:

Off:

On:

So, I tried the electric pump supplied with the car (as we don't get a spare wheel and get the pump and tyre sealant instead) and it worked at treat.

Pressures should only be checked when tyres are cold. So having a pump on board means it is easily checked at home - a bonus as how many times have you found the filling station pumps not working

The socket lead is long enough for the pump to easily reach all 4 wheels from the socket in the glove box.

35psi = 2.4 bar - as that is the measure used on the pump guage.

The pump was as powerful as most you find at filling stations (and no need to set the desired pressure) so it took less than a minute or so to do each tyre (bringing each tyre up from 31.5 psi to 35)

I let the pump run until it read 2.5 bar on the guage as I then found on unscrewing the pump lead, meant losing a little air in the process, and on my own guage that I trust gave me the 35psi.

Quite impressed

The only very minor downside was getting the supply cables wound up small enough to get them both back in the compartment on the pump