Now I cant remember the last lot i put in, its probably on my build thread, I think it was Fuchs 75/90 titan stuff but that isn't really the point of this as I explained to him I change the gearbox oil twice a year anyhow and every time its something different but I try to get the "best" & "expensive" stuff i can find, This is the problem he explained, I am using oil with too low friction, its basically too slippy and not allowing the synchros to friction and bite! I am trying to understand why the more expensive an oil is, the more it offers "low" friction but the gearbox builder says this is bad and I should be using 10W40 engine oil or a cheap mineral oil (definately not synthetic) which kind of goes against what you would think, BUT does he have a point? does anyone know?

Also, the second spanner in the box is that online (i know i know) lots of forums stating DO NOT USE GL5 in a 350z box only use GL4 with some rational behind it stating the GL5 contains additives that degrade the brass Synchros, now I have definately been using lots of oils that state GL4 & GL5 like the one i am about to put in now below:

Like above, I thought as the box is being rebuilt again, I would opt for the best i could find, Motorsport use and states suitable for synchromesh gearboxes but is this going to cause more issues than it solves? 

Does anyone know if this is ok?, i am going to ring Millers tomorrow and ask their technical team.

But would also like to know if anyone definetively knows whether a GL4 / GL5 combi oil is no good or a fully synthetic is no good or that we should be using a cheap engine oil / mineral oil for track use (slamming through the gears at high RPM) as they offer a better coefficient of friction required for the synchros then chip in.

I may update this with future findings but no doubt the proof of the pudding will be when i do the first event of the season next year and how long it takes for me to swear at the gearbox!

Bought a 2004 350z GT (used to be Gudzy’s car from the forums here) and we need help with a potentially misfiring cylinder (local mechanic said it is misfiring and that he can hear it but he also said we need to find a specialist and not just go to a normal garage like theirs) which is presumably causing the engine check light (error code is bank 1 sensor 1 lean shift and it appears after clearing the codes after about one hour of non-stop driving) and some rust / safety issues/questions.  Also need to put in new dipped beam and main beam lights as one on each side isn’t working, etc.

Can anyone recommend a specialist garage in our area Saffron Walden / Cambridge?

Thanks a lot in advance!

Best regards,

Anton

Some will recal i droppwd onto a 350z rag top which was standing for 13yrs.  Innevitably, now its being used daily issues are arrising lol.

I cjanged the slave clutch cylinder after pedal to floor issues and it wont bleed so now purchased a master cylinder.

Ive removed all the engine bay pipes and gubins easy enough but cant even see the two 12mm bolts to put a socket on! 

Do i need to drop the entire pedal box and ecu to gain access?

Peed off and missing the drive thrills so please help i wanna get this done and bled tomoz. Back on road asap.

Thanks

Bongo dave x

Quick question, apart from the price, what’s the difference between these two Denso plugs for the HR engine? 
 

Manual shows FXE22HR11, Denso catalogue lists them and Denso iridium TT IXEH22T

Car currently has the TT ones fitted, just curious if to swap them out for the originals or go with the same again?

A while back, my HR died on me. 

Cruising on the motorway in 6th when I suddenly lost power. No grinding, no horrible noises, just loss of power. No engine management light either.

Next day, it would start but only on 1 bank.

At first I thought it was the Cam Position sensor as it did eventually give me an engine light and indicated the camshaft position sensor. Bought brand new Nissan OEM sensors (replaced all of them). Still the same. 

Checked fuel, fuses, wiring, etc. Noticed my spark plugs had a bit of oil on them so I replaced the rocker covers. Checked the cams themselves for any obvious damage. Everything looked good.

So... timing chain?

Eventually, I took the cam timing chain cover off and inspected it. All looked good. Turned the crankshaft. All looking good.

Until I eventually noticed (through my oil filler) that my intake cam wasn't turning!

So yeah. Intake camshaft broken. Took the rocker cover off and inspected it again. No damage there! The damage is right by the camshaft sprocket!

I guess, what I'm asking is... Should I fix?

I can't do a compression test. I can't put the chamshaft timing cover back on because the sprocket isn't sat where it should be anymore. I can't do a leakdown test as I don't have a compressor and no real means of having one either...

However, my intake valves all look good. Due to where the camshaft snapped, all the valves are in the highest position and fuel was collecting behind them. Used my beroscope down the spark plug holes and looked at the pistons. From my limited knowledge... They look fine.

I'm a little bit hesitant to buy a new camshaft (would a used one be a bad thing to do?) and hope for the best without getting some thoughts from those far more knowledgeable than me!

I feel like it would make sense to do the timing chain, water pump and gallery gasket(it has been done before, but considering it's just there and it's a £20-£30 part)) since it's done circa 190k if I was to do it all...

I'd rather do the work myself as money is a bit tight! Fairly competent. Did my entire clutch system last December when the CSC failed 😅

Or should I actually take it to Horsham/Japex, etc and get it looked at properly... Just money is tight atm!

Thanks in advance for any help!

This is it starting before I took the cam timing cover off

Vids of the pistons...

some context: I bought my first 350z at the end of August this year and when changing the spark plugs shortly after, I noticed that there was oil around a couple of the the spark plugs so went ahead and purchased two new OEM valve covers (or rocker covers which ever it is).

I’ve since completed that and happy that the oil is now flowing within the engine not out however, today when I finally got it back out the garage, I was met by an engine management light and the car in limp mode. I put a code reader on it and get P1233 and C1131 codes. I tried clearing them and trying again but no joy, they come back after about a minute.

i noticed the engine seems to be struggling to idle and eventually bogs down and the light comes on.
 

I’ve check connections to things such as throttle bodies, cam sensors, intakes, coils packs etc but no joy.

Does anyone have any ideas of possible areas to check or maybe someone can point me to a recommended garage/350z specialist in the Lincolnshire/Nottinghamshire area?

It all started well.

Windows down as I tapped to pay the toll fee.

Barrier went up.

Revved her up and dumped the clutch and we were off.

Smiling like a Cheshire Cat as she took off , VQ trumpeting away sweetly through my Scorpion exhaust.

Changed to 2nd.....

Revs climbing sweetly

Reached for 3rd......WTF!

Was as if I was Captain Kirk with Scotty telling me "The dilithium crystals are smoking.......she canny take any more Captain"

Smelt that nasty burning clutch smell and it just wouldn't hook up.

Tried 4th gear.....NADA.

Tried 5th then 6ht.....NADA.

Just revved with no power.

After a couple seconds she finally engaged 6th and I cruised her gently back to Manchester.

It had had the odd slip before anyway so I bit the bullet and had a new clutch, dual mass flywheel, slave and master cylinder fitted.

Garage told me it was a nightmare it was to bleed.

Drove home and after 30 min the clutch pedal wouldn't come back up without me flicking it back up with my foot.

Back it went to the garage.

Pedal felt 90% better but again garage said they struggled to get any pedal feels at all to begin with and they "think" it's good but to bring it back if any problems......very confidence inspiring....NOT

Alas, same story. After spirited driving for 15in I lost pedal feel.

So I returned to the garage again armed with some tips from @davey_83 and another zed friend.

The garage was amazed...... INSTANT SUCCESS 

1. Was to pre fill the slave cylinder with fluid.

2 Was to bleed the clutch using the attached guide

Hope this helps people who have similar bleeding woes.

I've got a big knock from the rear under braking. Lifted her up and looks like the diff bush is toast, strange as it was fine before and I never actually removed the diff 🤷🏻‍♂️.

Does anyone have the Z1 bush removal tool I can hire? Seems mad to spend that much when someone may have one lying around. 

Cheers 

I am Currently in need of a clutch kit as the thrus bearing sounds like its about to explode. While I've got the gearbox out I may as well replace the friction plate and pressure plate so have been looking into clutch kits. 

While doing some research I found that I need a 240mm friction plate as my car is an 05 DE. Using a parts site called RockAuto I can only find one kit that contains the correct size (all others are 250mm for HR flywheels etc). However this kit contains a coil sprung type pressure plate rather than the more common diaphragm type and I have no idea if this will work? Has anyone used this item or has any experience or advice as my head hurts with confusion at this point. Please see link for reference:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4698246&cc=1431964&pt=1993&jsn=15

Looking at clutch kits in the UK and some advertise to fit DE's but are also 250mm? have I been barking up the wrong tree or can a 250mm fit my car also? 

I have found this kit which looks promising but is more expensive than ones from RockAuto as a backup. has anyone got experience with this kit from Torqen?

https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/powertrain/clutch-flywheel-packs/263344-350z-z33-g35-z1-motorsports-mild-performance-clutch-kit.html

Thanks in advance

Had a 350z for 4 year now and been through 2 new sets of rocker covers.

Cheap Ebay specials at first, started leaking towards the rear of engine and into spark plug tubes.

Expensive Tarmac sportz ones were the exact same.

Both sides have leaked at one point or another. New seals included in the covers and correct gasket material/seal has been used. There is not damage to the head that I can see after cleaning off the old sealant. Problem looks like the cover warping as they are not flat at all once removed. 

Can anyone help or have a solution? Or what's peoples opinions on the aluminium covers?

thanks 

My car keeps on going into Limb mode.. it works fine for 100 miles after i clear the ECU, and then it turns back on.

Errorcodes are.

P2122 Accelerator Pedal position Sensor

P2138 Accelerator Pedal position Sensor

Is this a common fault and how can i fix this? this morning i wasen't able to clear the code.. so i had to drive 20miles back home in limb mode ( BORRING ).

Is it a new pedal or???

Not sure if this is the right area to post in. Sorry if it's not.

I unfortunately have the code of ECU death (p0605). Symptoms are, the car has a rough Idle and anything below 2k rpm on the road it will all of a sudden drop 200-400 rpm intermittently. 

Anyone have any thoughts on possible repairs before I go get a new ecu or the current one repaired. Fuses? PCR Valve? Cam Sensors etc? 

Thanks guys!

This topic seems to be well covered, however there are varying combinations of kits out there for sale and i'm not sure what to go for. The clutch is slipping in 4th/5th/6th, from about 2.5k upwards if i plant it. Some months ago i had the slave cylinder replaced as the pedal feel wasn't great and occasionally the pedal wouldn't come back up, especially if I planted it in first. However I don't think this was done well, I think there is some air in the fluid as the pedal feel can sometimes be a bit "gritty" and quickly gets quite firm if i use the clutch a lot in slow traffic or hills. 

I had an FN2 Type R and had the clutch/fly done on that, the feel was lovely afterwards, very light and easy on the leg but very controllable with the biting point very low (it was high before clutch went). Is there something similar for these that would give me that?

It has standard breather mods, JWT Intake, plenum spacer, sports cats, stainless catback, no remap (Yet). 127K miles. I have never tracked it, if I do it wouldn't be an absolute spanking as I am not confident in my skill or limits of the car. It isn't always daily'd as I have a second car, though sometimes I daily it by choice and use it on a mixture of short/long lourneys at weekends. Sometimes spirited drives, I enjoy the engaging driving experience, rev matching downshifts etc, but wouldn't say i absolutely rag it and redline it in every gear all the time.

A few questions if I can please:

Does the flywheel need to be replaced at the same time? It seems an expensive combo.

What is the typical rate for labour?

Is there any part of the clutch/fly that i should replace with uprated versions? Or is the OE kit recommended? 

What kit would you recommend?

Thanks all,

C

We have a 2004 350z roadster that will not open. The canvas is in good shape, all joints lubed. 

When I  open the roof latch, foot on brake, press OPEN - the windows open, passenger seat moves forward then the fifth bow latch makes a clicking noise , releases and and the fifth bow springs up about 1/2".  Dash roof light to illuminates. then no movement, silence.

I have cleaned the fifth bow motor and replaced the brushes. The overhead elastic straps are new and tight. The canvas is in good shape, all joints lubed. 

Any ideas?

Any way to manually open the roof to get at limit switches?

Cant find anything  on the web. Any help much appreciated!

Kerry 

Thanks

I have spoken to a mate who is a mechanic, he says mixing 5w-40 and 5w-30 won’t cause me any issues. Even if I push my Zed every now and then.

Just thought I’d put a post out there to ask advice from a group of people who all specifically know about 350Z’s. I know 2005 VQ35DE REVUP engines have a reputation to burn oil due to their not so great piston rings, that’s why I made the change to 5w-40 in the first place. But would like to know a bit more information before I make the decision to service it or not. Cheers!

I have a 2005 350z VQ35DE and I want to do a oil change but I'm confused on which oil to get? I would like to go with Castrol Edge 5w-30 because I've used it on all of my other vehicles and I've heard its really good for the 350z but they have so many different versions such as 5w-30 LL, M, C3, A5/B5... I've seen on the back label of some of them saying it can be used on Nissans but they don't have the right API or ACEA grades on them and vice versa, some have the right grades but on the label Nissan isn't listed.

Just wondering what everyone else is running and if it really matters that much?  

I'm new here so hello everyone 😊. I bought a 350Z not too long ago and I found out it's leaking engine oil.

I am at a complete loss. I am hoping you guys and gals can help me.

For reference the oil leak is 0.5litres every 1-3 hours of driving (a few dozen miles)

Here are some details in chronological order:

- At first I thought that the leak was coming from the back of the engine.

- I put in oil dye, drove around a bit and couldn't find much, until I found a patch of fresh dyed oil from the back right corner (looking at it from the front) right underneath the valve cover.

- I changed the valve cover gasket on that side, added RTV to the front only as per FSM. I checked the spark plug cylinders and they looked clean. All ignition coils were dry.

- Oil leak still present.

- I struggled a bit but managed to get a pretty good look at the back of the engine from above and it's all dry; nothing on the top of the transmission at all.

- I put the front on jackstands today and looked from underneath. Everything on the right side was drenched in oil, from the roll bar up front to the brace in the back. This included, AC compressor  steering rack, AC pipes, coolant pipes, exhaust manifold (lower part), starter motor (absolutely drenched), subframe... the whole lot.

- I cleaned off as much as I could then ran the engine for a few minutes (with the front still up in the air) and a few drops appeared.

- Looking up from where the drops were, I could see the sky (open bonnet).... so I looked from above and it was still a pretty straight shot from the sky lol. The closest thing was the exhaust manifold shroud which appeared to be wet, but couldn't verify (hot surface).

- I was afraid it would be the rear main seal but I don't think it is as it's not coming from the back.

Attached are some pics I took from underneath, please note that the pics are in reverse chronological order. All taken today.

Any help or suggestions are much appreciated. I'm at a loss.

P.S: I can't drench the whole engine in brake cleaner as I'm working just off the street, unless you can advise on how to prevent leakage.

any advice?

I do have a code reader but have lost the charger so I’ll try to find that to see if anything comes up on it but like I say there is no current engine light showing.

Mine in particular is a used Tarmac Sportz offering. Very well made with nice fixtures, however this one did need new holes drilling at the rear (next to existing ones) to keep the undertray taught - easy 2mins job. Using the existing x2 rear mounting holes, would cause the tray to sag a touch near the sump. Not an issue other than the reduced ride height when clearing speed bumps and for car on coilovers, an adjustment was sort.

The undertray comes in 2 parts, which allows for easy of shipping and overall length adjustability of several mm via elongated holes. This along with the elongated mounting holes (laterally) for the front bumper attachment, means fitting is very straight forward.

First time using the ally undertray and while the hatch is a fab idea, I didn't enjoy the experience. R&D was clearly done on a 2 poster ramp and changing the oil filter on axle stands required yoga. Clear access provided for the sump plug however I found myself undoing with one hand and then tighten the new filter with the other remotely. Next time il raise the car higher to allow for better reach of the oil filter, but there still no chance of whipping you hand away with the old filter in an effort to not get hot oil down your arm.

Ideal access would place you right underneath the hatch and in the oil or lying with you feet under the passenger side sill.

Its a big time saver not having to remove 300 10mm bolts, but I would always jack up and remove the OE undertray while allowing the engine to warm up ie overlapping labour. Then with the tray fully removed I like to inspect the radiator, lower coolant hoses and clips, ARB bushes, engine pulleys and front main seal. All while giving the sump and subframe and quick wiper over to keep the grim down. 

On newer cars or for owners who take their car to a garage for service, fantastic. For cars getting on a bit (as all our 350z's are now and like the service them ourselves).... I didn't enjoy the experience. Felt like I was checking the levels on a Audi A2 using the service panel.

Unless your OE engine undertray is toast, save the £££ for other mods.

Hopefully someone can help. Drivers door wont open from the inside or outside. It's a topic that's been covered on here a few times. Mechanism makes all the right noises but still wont open.

The garage I had the MOT at managed to get my door open and replaced the door latch mechanism, great, it got me through my MOT. 2 days later and I'm back to square one. I can't get in or out of my drivers door. My question is, could it be the actuator? I'm under the impression the actuator turns the signal from the fob into the mechanical motion required to release the door but does the actuator also control a manual lock opening as that doesn't open the door either? 

I'm running out of bits to replace and my Bill's are getting bigger. 

Any one any advice they can offer?

Thanks in advance, 

Hayd.