Thanks

I bought the DE pack from Horsham developments, so I figured it would be fine??

Unless I actually needed one for an HR, despite not having an HR...?

Can someone fill me in please? The mechanic is a trusted one - my brother in law.

Just to clarify, this isn't to slander H-dev. I just want to know which belts I MIGHT need to purchase, should these be wrong, and maybe help someone else in the future.

My engine light is doing my head in!! it has been in to a Nissan dealer to have the fault code read and diagnosis but we are not getting anywhere.

Has anybody else had this code P0430 TW Catalyst SYS-B2. The first time the light came on the code was P0420 TW Catalyst SYS-B1 (drivers side bank) so the dealer advised replacement of the rear 02 sensor on that side.

This was completed and for a while the light was off, however now every time I do any motor-way driving Constant speed around 3000 RPM the light comes back on and the SyS - B2 fault code is displayed. the light does not go out with restarting the engine but is on all the time until I go into the dealer to have it turned off. Can anyone help??

I have a feeling that one of or both the cats are at fault but with new cats at £1500 each dont want to make a very expensive mistake, (the dealer has advised that the cats need to be replaced and then possible further testing) I am also concerned that this fault may be with the engine and may just knacker new cats in a short space of time. Any thoughts or ideas welcome!!

Sorry forgot to add the engine is running fine with no hesitation or missfire.

Thanks for reading Ed

Now I cant remember the last lot i put in, its probably on my build thread, I think it was Fuchs 75/90 titan stuff but that isn't really the point of this as I explained to him I change the gearbox oil twice a year anyhow and every time its something different but I try to get the "best" & "expensive" stuff i can find, This is the problem he explained, I am using oil with too low friction, its basically too slippy and not allowing the synchros to friction and bite! I am trying to understand why the more expensive an oil is, the more it offers "low" friction but the gearbox builder says this is bad and I should be using 10W40 engine oil or a cheap mineral oil (definately not synthetic) which kind of goes against what you would think, BUT does he have a point? does anyone know?

Also, the second spanner in the box is that online (i know i know) lots of forums stating DO NOT USE GL5 in a 350z box only use GL4 with some rational behind it stating the GL5 contains additives that degrade the brass Synchros, now I have definately been using lots of oils that state GL4 & GL5 like the one i am about to put in now below:

Like above, I thought as the box is being rebuilt again, I would opt for the best i could find, Motorsport use and states suitable for synchromesh gearboxes but is this going to cause more issues than it solves? 

Does anyone know if this is ok?, i am going to ring Millers tomorrow and ask their technical team.

But would also like to know if anyone definetively knows whether a GL4 / GL5 combi oil is no good or a fully synthetic is no good or that we should be using a cheap engine oil / mineral oil for track use (slamming through the gears at high RPM) as they offer a better coefficient of friction required for the synchros then chip in.

I may update this with future findings but no doubt the proof of the pudding will be when i do the first event of the season next year and how long it takes for me to swear at the gearbox!

I recently replaced all the front arms with Moog parts on my 2004 350z and ever since I've noticed that the steering won't return to centre.

From the research I've done it seems there isn't a way to adjust caster so not sure how I am meant to rectify this?

Car drives straight and turn in feels good it just disconcerting that it isn't returning to centre and wasn't doing it before. 

Thanks,

Ash

Decided to take the lower pan off anyway and the strainer tube itself is fine, only a wee ding in the shell at the top (see attached photos).

Does anyone have any opinions on if this is too much damage?

Early on during these warning signs, I checked the pedal adjustment, which seemed to have already been adjusted (another red flag) and the dead zone had plenty of space, so I was able to rule that out pretty quickly. Next I decided to replace the clutch fluid, thinking there may be some moisture or air in the lines meaning the clutch wasn't fully disengaging, but this also failed to produce results and the old fluid was pretty fresh. Obviously now I've let it degrade this far it's going to be a significantly more expensive fix. But that's not what I'm hugely worried about...

The fact that this issue degraded at a significant rate 64k miles in with other signs pointing towards the idea this issue was present before I purchased the car, I need to figure out what the issue is before I go ahead and ruin a new clutch. Unless I'm being paranoid and its simply come to the end of its life meaning a replacement kit will solve the issue.

If anyone has any ideas please let me know.

Many thanks.

Bought a 2004 350z GT (used to be Gudzy’s car from the forums here) and we need help with a potentially misfiring cylinder (local mechanic said it is misfiring and that he can hear it but he also said we need to find a specialist and not just go to a normal garage like theirs) which is presumably causing the engine check light (error code is bank 1 sensor 1 lean shift and it appears after clearing the codes after about one hour of non-stop driving) and some rust / safety issues/questions.  Also need to put in new dipped beam and main beam lights as one on each side isn’t working, etc.

Can anyone recommend a specialist garage in our area Saffron Walden / Cambridge?

Thanks a lot in advance!

Best regards,

Anton

Some will recal i droppwd onto a 350z rag top which was standing for 13yrs.  Innevitably, now its being used daily issues are arrising lol.

I cjanged the slave clutch cylinder after pedal to floor issues and it wont bleed so now purchased a master cylinder.

Ive removed all the engine bay pipes and gubins easy enough but cant even see the two 12mm bolts to put a socket on! 

Do i need to drop the entire pedal box and ecu to gain access?

Peed off and missing the drive thrills so please help i wanna get this done and bled tomoz. Back on road asap.

Thanks

Bongo dave x

Quick question, apart from the price, what’s the difference between these two Denso plugs for the HR engine? 
 

Manual shows FXE22HR11, Denso catalogue lists them and Denso iridium TT IXEH22T

Car currently has the TT ones fitted, just curious if to swap them out for the originals or go with the same again?

A while back, my HR died on me. 

Cruising on the motorway in 6th when I suddenly lost power. No grinding, no horrible noises, just loss of power. No engine management light either.

Next day, it would start but only on 1 bank.

At first I thought it was the Cam Position sensor as it did eventually give me an engine light and indicated the camshaft position sensor. Bought brand new Nissan OEM sensors (replaced all of them). Still the same. 

Checked fuel, fuses, wiring, etc. Noticed my spark plugs had a bit of oil on them so I replaced the rocker covers. Checked the cams themselves for any obvious damage. Everything looked good.

So... timing chain?

Eventually, I took the cam timing chain cover off and inspected it. All looked good. Turned the crankshaft. All looking good.

Until I eventually noticed (through my oil filler) that my intake cam wasn't turning!

So yeah. Intake camshaft broken. Took the rocker cover off and inspected it again. No damage there! The damage is right by the camshaft sprocket!

I guess, what I'm asking is... Should I fix?

I can't do a compression test. I can't put the chamshaft timing cover back on because the sprocket isn't sat where it should be anymore. I can't do a leakdown test as I don't have a compressor and no real means of having one either...

However, my intake valves all look good. Due to where the camshaft snapped, all the valves are in the highest position and fuel was collecting behind them. Used my beroscope down the spark plug holes and looked at the pistons. From my limited knowledge... They look fine.

I'm a little bit hesitant to buy a new camshaft (would a used one be a bad thing to do?) and hope for the best without getting some thoughts from those far more knowledgeable than me!

I feel like it would make sense to do the timing chain, water pump and gallery gasket(it has been done before, but considering it's just there and it's a £20-£30 part)) since it's done circa 190k if I was to do it all...

I'd rather do the work myself as money is a bit tight! Fairly competent. Did my entire clutch system last December when the CSC failed 😅

Or should I actually take it to Horsham/Japex, etc and get it looked at properly... Just money is tight atm!

Thanks in advance for any help!

This is it starting before I took the cam timing cover off

Vids of the pistons...

some context: I bought my first 350z at the end of August this year and when changing the spark plugs shortly after, I noticed that there was oil around a couple of the the spark plugs so went ahead and purchased two new OEM valve covers (or rocker covers which ever it is).

I’ve since completed that and happy that the oil is now flowing within the engine not out however, today when I finally got it back out the garage, I was met by an engine management light and the car in limp mode. I put a code reader on it and get P1233 and C1131 codes. I tried clearing them and trying again but no joy, they come back after about a minute.

i noticed the engine seems to be struggling to idle and eventually bogs down and the light comes on.
 

I’ve check connections to things such as throttle bodies, cam sensors, intakes, coils packs etc but no joy.

Does anyone have any ideas of possible areas to check or maybe someone can point me to a recommended garage/350z specialist in the Lincolnshire/Nottinghamshire area?

It all started well.

Windows down as I tapped to pay the toll fee.

Barrier went up.

Revved her up and dumped the clutch and we were off.

Smiling like a Cheshire Cat as she took off , VQ trumpeting away sweetly through my Scorpion exhaust.

Changed to 2nd.....

Revs climbing sweetly

Reached for 3rd......WTF!

Was as if I was Captain Kirk with Scotty telling me "The dilithium crystals are smoking.......she canny take any more Captain"

Smelt that nasty burning clutch smell and it just wouldn't hook up.

Tried 4th gear.....NADA.

Tried 5th then 6ht.....NADA.

Just revved with no power.

After a couple seconds she finally engaged 6th and I cruised her gently back to Manchester.

It had had the odd slip before anyway so I bit the bullet and had a new clutch, dual mass flywheel, slave and master cylinder fitted.

Garage told me it was a nightmare it was to bleed.

Drove home and after 30 min the clutch pedal wouldn't come back up without me flicking it back up with my foot.

Back it went to the garage.

Pedal felt 90% better but again garage said they struggled to get any pedal feels at all to begin with and they "think" it's good but to bring it back if any problems......very confidence inspiring....NOT

Alas, same story. After spirited driving for 15in I lost pedal feel.

So I returned to the garage again armed with some tips from @davey_83 and another zed friend.

The garage was amazed...... INSTANT SUCCESS 

1. Was to pre fill the slave cylinder with fluid.

2 Was to bleed the clutch using the attached guide

Hope this helps people who have similar bleeding woes.

I've got a big knock from the rear under braking. Lifted her up and looks like the diff bush is toast, strange as it was fine before and I never actually removed the diff 🤷🏻‍♂️.

Does anyone have the Z1 bush removal tool I can hire? Seems mad to spend that much when someone may have one lying around. 

Cheers 

I am Currently in need of a clutch kit as the thrus bearing sounds like its about to explode. While I've got the gearbox out I may as well replace the friction plate and pressure plate so have been looking into clutch kits. 

While doing some research I found that I need a 240mm friction plate as my car is an 05 DE. Using a parts site called RockAuto I can only find one kit that contains the correct size (all others are 250mm for HR flywheels etc). However this kit contains a coil sprung type pressure plate rather than the more common diaphragm type and I have no idea if this will work? Has anyone used this item or has any experience or advice as my head hurts with confusion at this point. Please see link for reference:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4698246&cc=1431964&pt=1993&jsn=15

Looking at clutch kits in the UK and some advertise to fit DE's but are also 250mm? have I been barking up the wrong tree or can a 250mm fit my car also? 

I have found this kit which looks promising but is more expensive than ones from RockAuto as a backup. has anyone got experience with this kit from Torqen?

https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/powertrain/clutch-flywheel-packs/263344-350z-z33-g35-z1-motorsports-mild-performance-clutch-kit.html

Thanks in advance

Had a 350z for 4 year now and been through 2 new sets of rocker covers.

Cheap Ebay specials at first, started leaking towards the rear of engine and into spark plug tubes.

Expensive Tarmac sportz ones were the exact same.

Both sides have leaked at one point or another. New seals included in the covers and correct gasket material/seal has been used. There is not damage to the head that I can see after cleaning off the old sealant. Problem looks like the cover warping as they are not flat at all once removed. 

Can anyone help or have a solution? Or what's peoples opinions on the aluminium covers?

thanks 

My car keeps on going into Limb mode.. it works fine for 100 miles after i clear the ECU, and then it turns back on.

Errorcodes are.

P2122 Accelerator Pedal position Sensor

P2138 Accelerator Pedal position Sensor

Is this a common fault and how can i fix this? this morning i wasen't able to clear the code.. so i had to drive 20miles back home in limb mode ( BORRING ).

Is it a new pedal or???

Not sure if this is the right area to post in. Sorry if it's not.

I unfortunately have the code of ECU death (p0605). Symptoms are, the car has a rough Idle and anything below 2k rpm on the road it will all of a sudden drop 200-400 rpm intermittently. 

Anyone have any thoughts on possible repairs before I go get a new ecu or the current one repaired. Fuses? PCR Valve? Cam Sensors etc? 

Thanks guys!

This topic seems to be well covered, however there are varying combinations of kits out there for sale and i'm not sure what to go for. The clutch is slipping in 4th/5th/6th, from about 2.5k upwards if i plant it. Some months ago i had the slave cylinder replaced as the pedal feel wasn't great and occasionally the pedal wouldn't come back up, especially if I planted it in first. However I don't think this was done well, I think there is some air in the fluid as the pedal feel can sometimes be a bit "gritty" and quickly gets quite firm if i use the clutch a lot in slow traffic or hills. 

I had an FN2 Type R and had the clutch/fly done on that, the feel was lovely afterwards, very light and easy on the leg but very controllable with the biting point very low (it was high before clutch went). Is there something similar for these that would give me that?

It has standard breather mods, JWT Intake, plenum spacer, sports cats, stainless catback, no remap (Yet). 127K miles. I have never tracked it, if I do it wouldn't be an absolute spanking as I am not confident in my skill or limits of the car. It isn't always daily'd as I have a second car, though sometimes I daily it by choice and use it on a mixture of short/long lourneys at weekends. Sometimes spirited drives, I enjoy the engaging driving experience, rev matching downshifts etc, but wouldn't say i absolutely rag it and redline it in every gear all the time.

A few questions if I can please:

Does the flywheel need to be replaced at the same time? It seems an expensive combo.

What is the typical rate for labour?

Is there any part of the clutch/fly that i should replace with uprated versions? Or is the OE kit recommended? 

What kit would you recommend?

Thanks all,

C

We have a 2004 350z roadster that will not open. The canvas is in good shape, all joints lubed. 

When I  open the roof latch, foot on brake, press OPEN - the windows open, passenger seat moves forward then the fifth bow latch makes a clicking noise , releases and and the fifth bow springs up about 1/2".  Dash roof light to illuminates. then no movement, silence.

I have cleaned the fifth bow motor and replaced the brushes. The overhead elastic straps are new and tight. The canvas is in good shape, all joints lubed. 

Any ideas?

Any way to manually open the roof to get at limit switches?

Cant find anything  on the web. Any help much appreciated!

Kerry