Yesterday I got in my car and the ESP and Skid light just stays on now too (is it likely these two are linked) 

I have checked the brake light switch and all seems fine there, cleaned contacts etc.. 

Do have aftermarket wheels but they've been on a year now (could these just randomly trigger this) 

Checked the forum and the brake fluid etc is all fine, just wondering if there's anything else to check and it's not showing any codes either

Cheers

I used to move the seat while driving once or twice a week to ensure that the mechanism got a bit of use and didn't seize up. But all of a sudden the forward and back switch is having no effect. After about a week of this it suddenly sprung to life while holding the switch for a while on the motorway. I moved the seat forwards and back as far as I could a couple of times and all seems magically repaired. But the next morning it was stuck again...

The switch for the seat-back still works fine, as does the forward/back switch for the passenger-side, as well as the heated seats (so power is still getting to the seats ok).

In one sense this isn't a huge issue as it is currently stuck as far back as it goes, which is where I have it for driving. I also have no plans to sell the car (though £570 p/a road tax would make you think twice!). But if someone smaller than me had to drive the car in an emergency or something we'd be screwed!

Has this happened to anyone else before? Any ideas?

new here and to forums in general so apologies if this is incorrect

This morning i had decided to run the car till warm on the drive due to lockdown and noticed the oil pressure gauge spiking more aggressively than before when revving the car and driving

i know it is normal for the pressure to increase with rpm as the oil pump is dependant on the engine rpm

before today it never exceeded 60psi only when in 6th but now the needle easily exceeds when rolling from still at around 2k rpm or idly revving

some key points to note are the car is filled with oil with no oil leaks visible or on the ground, it also doesn't burn oil as i were pointed out before purchasing a 350z that they will consume oil

could it be a faulty oil pressure sensor? or is this just the norm?

thanks for any advise in advance

1. Turn the ignition switch from Position 0 to ON 6 times within 10 seconds.

2. Then turn ignition switch to OFF position. Leave key in ignition switch.

3. After 2 seconds, the system will enter programming mode and will flash the warning

lights twice.

4. Press and HOLD the unlock button on the Plip.

5. While pressing the unlock button, press the lock button 3 times.

6. Release the unlock button.

7. The warning lights will flash once to indicate successful programming.

8. Repeat procedure 4 to 7 for up to 4 plip key’s.

9. When completed turn ignition ON, and the warning lights will flash 2 times.

10. Remove key, and check all plip key’s for operation.

any advise would be much appreciated!  thanks 

I've purchased yet another 350z and noticed on the drive home when in 5th/6th or so and I slam on the throttle a loud bang/ thud comes from the back of the car. I feel like this is the differential bushings that have gone bad but not sure. The garage I bought the car from has a 2 month warranty on the car, is this something that would be covered would you think? If anyone has any other ideas on what the noise could be I'm all ears. It only happens once not multiple thuds when accelerating.

I own a 2007 HR zed 72k miles.

Thanks,

Toby

I get the common click when I select reverse and moving off going forward.

It seems to do this when the car is warm . I have 2 months national warrenty left that covers the car for everything @  up to £80 A hour Labour up to £5000 total claim. Should i get it re grease and replace what's needed or go for the upgraded shaft I've read about that has the problem solved? Any advice would be great thank u. I have read the click thread but would like some condenced info to produce to my mechanic 

I know there are a few of you on here that are pretty clued up when it comes to consumer law amongst other things.

So I'm wondering if you can help...

Just over a month ago I had a new SMF, clutch and CSC fitted, I sourced these parts and supplied them to the garage. (This garage was in Scotland as I broke down while on the NC500 and I'm in Essex, key point to remember)

Now a month on and after only 992 miles it seems I've had another CSC failure or a failure with one of the clutch components as again my clutch has dropped to the floor and when operating the clutch the fluid level drops....and drips right from the gearbox housing.

Now it needs to be taken apart again to see what's happened, whether it's simply a faulty part or whether it's poor workmanship.

Now as I can't just take it 600 miles back to the repairing garage, I've arranged to have it looked at by my local garage and they will be taking pictures as evidence to send on if it is the latter.

My question is if it does prove to be down to incorrect fitment which has caused damage then where do I stand with seeking compensation from the original repairing garage? The parts and labour were around £1700 and then the further labour cost to take the box out again is £306 so around £2000 in total not including towing costs and arranging alternative travel

Now in seeking all these costs reimbursed, how would i best go about this with a garage 600 miles away?  I'm skeptical that a garage would make it easy for me to reclaim £2000 plus

This is all speculation at this point until the box is pulled again, it could be that the work was done fine and a part is faulty which would fall under warranty but I'd just like to get as much information as possible beforehand

I joined the "Z crew" 9 months or so ago, bought a Grey 2003 DE GT with 88K on her. The clutch started slipping around 90K so I had this replaced with an exedy clutch from Euro Car Parts for around £250 plus £150 labor through a friend (professional garage - knows his stuff and has worked on 350s previously so I trust him).

I bedded it in, not going over 4.5k for 2000 miles and have since done 10K (car is now on 100K) and has started slipping in 5th and 6th around 5K RPM.

I have done some spirited driving up the brecon beacons but nothing a car like the Z shouldn't be able to handle so my question to the forum is:

Do you think I should contact Euro Car Parts and tell them the situation to try and claim a warranty replacement or should I suck it up, buy another clutch and get that fitted (whilst also changing the fly wheel to a single mass and changing the cylinders) ?

Does anyone here have a warranty company they use that isnt a ripoff. I.e. if my clutch breaks... I want it replaced if jm gonna be paying 80quid a month

I'm not sure where I stand, but I bought the gold year warranty just in case anything went wrong. Just wondering if anyone has had any joy going down this path, as I have already replaced the boot struts (from my own pocket).

I got the dealer on the phone and said I had the car for 2 months now and its getting louder and louder, can we fix it etc he said sure bring it in.

2 hour drive later, I get there, get my courtesy car and describe the issues, and leave.

I get a call about an hour and a half later, claiming my gearbox is out, and the flywheel and clutch show signs of wear. I was previously told this takes 5 hours to check, so I called his bullshit and he dodged the questions I had.

My clutch is fine, I checked it when I bought the car less than 1000 miles ago. ( bad for the box but only did it once ) Revved it hard to like 5k , then dumped the clutch in 6th. Bit instantly. So my clutch is 90% fine surely?

Anyways. The warranty bloke claimed a clutch job and flywheel is £2500 at Nissan, again I called bullshit as I know the parts are £600 or so sold directly to me, so a dealer like him would firstly claim back VAT and get dealer prices etc. He then ( stupidly ) said "oh I won't get the parts directly from Nissan as they are so expensive" This set alarm bells off. Surely if it's a warranty fix, only OEM parts are supposed to be used? or can he source from a 3rd party ?

I mainly was told the whirring noise is from the DM flywheel, so that would need replacing, unlike what forum members have said is the input shaft. It can't be flywheel or the noise would be in all gears surely, not just first?

He also wants me to pay a contribution of £350 towards the parts as clutch and flywheel are wear and tear items.

Surely I can tell him to **** off, and ignore my clutch and flywheel, only fixing what is needed?

What is my next course of action? My dad is fuming at me for this, claiming its my own fault cause I didn't consult Nissan ( I consulted my brother in law, a Honda MASTER MECHANIC of 20+ years )

His plan is to try and catch the warranty guy unawares by driving back up there tomorrow and trying to catch him out, with my car not being worked on, and the gearbox still in the car, proving they don't know the condition of my clutch etc - seems risky to me

I see a few threads here about people trying to claim through the warranty for the rust / corrosion and just wanting to share what's been going on with mine too!

I have a 2004 reg, with just short of 60000 on the clocker. I don't do much miles in it myself just an evening / weekend kind of deal. So noticed some bubbling appearing near the rear arch on one side, and I hadn't really spotted it until I noticed one had burst and upon checking the inside of the arch it seems to be being eaten away from inside on both sides.

As the car is covered for the 12 years, and has always been serviced at Nissan through its life, I've been dealing with the warranty department for over 4 weeks now trying to get this sorted, took the car to get photographed by a Nissan approved workshop who the guy actually said it was seems to be from corrosion and not damage.

Now i was wondering what was taking so long so got back in touch with the dealer, who's said the body shop have quoted £6000 for the work! Surely this can't be right!? I can only image they are now going to try fight me on this due to such an extortionate price?

Any thoughts on this!?

Pics attached.

The HR have had a recall on the clutch lave cylinder. Did we?

http://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/328151-recall-on-slave-cylinder.html

So about 7 weeks ago I went to the dealer, who originally tried to suggest it was a stone chip but they took pictures and said they would ask Nissan UK for a decision. It took a lot of chasing on my part and they didn't even sent the claim off for 2 weeks, but eventually it was booked in last week.

Beaut of a Honda Jazz as a courtesy car

Vtec just didn't kick in though yo! Made the Zed feel even quicker when I finally got it back

Brand new bonnet painted and fitted:

I will get a proper picture when the weather is a bit nicer

Only fly in the ointment is that whilst valeting the inside of the car someone managed to knock the power cable for my speed camera detector onto the seat rail, before moving the seat back and forth to hover the carpets So I am expecting a call from them tomorrow to discuss that.

So fair dos to Nissan UK for honouring the warranty, despite my car not having the 'body checks' stamped in the back of the service book (whatever they are!)

Recently had to manually close soft top as 5th bow decided it didn't want to operate to the closed position automatically. However manually closed 5 th bow but only to the half lock position. How do you manually release it from here or even get it to the fully locked/closed position.

Booked the zed in with Chorley Nissan (Preston) for its annual service in Dec and upon picking I mentioned this to them then, as it was dark they advised to come during the day so that they could take some pictures and send to Nissan HQ.

So last week I popped in, one of the service guys (really helpful guy) came out took some pics, initially he said Nissan would try and reject the claim and blame stone chips, however, popped the bonnet and it was clear as day that the corrosion was coming from underneath, the guy took loads of pics and advised its up to HQ to decide and I willl get a call back...

Just got off the phone, they have a brand new bonnet for me which will be sprayed and fitted next week

Can honestly say, the service I receive from Chorley Nissan (Preston) has been 1st class, service prices aren't bad either

Before pics...

Bonnet looks in fairly good condition

Very small bit of corrosion coming through

Closer look...

Corrosion more apparent under the rubber seal

zed's currently at the body shop, will post more pics when she returns home in the mean time im cruising automatic nissan note not!

Update: Zed is home, after pics below

Am I right in thinking there is a 10 year paint corrosion repair warranty on the 350z ?

I was washing my car and underneath the bonnet at the front between the seal and metal there is definate internal corrosion causing scabbing bubbly paint. Problem is my car is slightly modified, so am I still elegible ? It is a EY53 plate so just in time.

Thanks

Bought a 2003 350 a week ago, which had had new electric window motors fitted on both sides recently.

4 days into its use, whilst i love the car, the drivers side window is now going straight up, then dropping half way when using the auto up feature. This also means that when i close the door with the window up, it doesnt drop then rise that little bit to stop the window coming into contact with the seal.

I've read up about the problem, and can see it appears to be an issue with the window regulator switch.

Have also read about some technical service bulletins released, and have investigated 2 that would relate to my issue :

2003 Nissan 350z Visibility Service Bulletin 155452

 

NHTSA: Action Number: 10006111 Service Bulletin Number: 155452

• Report Date:
  Mar 24, 2004
  
• Component:
  Visibility
  

Summary: Door window glass does not drop when opening door. *tt

 

2004 Nissan 350z Visibility Service Bulletin 169981

 

NHTSA: Action Number: 10009363 Service Bulletin Number: 169981

• Report Date:
  Jul 29, 2004
  
• Component:
  Visibility
  

Summary: Window regulator motor reset procedure. *tt

I know the fact these motors were fitted after may cause an issue, but I'm working off the assumption that that is something i don't need to tell Nissan if they were willing to fix it... as i could just claim ignorance as ive just bought it.

So my question is, will these TSBs still be valid on my 2003 350z? Could i get this regulator issue fixed for free by Nissan under one of these TSBs

NOT HAPPY!

I took the Z to Nissan regarding some Corrosion on the roof, a few 5p and 1p humps and bump appearing now, he took some pics and sent it off to Nissan head office UK (who ever makes the final decision in the warranty dept) with a report. That was Monday, yesturday he phoned me back and said it isnt good news....so after a phone call today with Nissan i was not happy with the reason behind the decision....

'it isnt covered under the warranty as its been caused by an outside source'...................

........yi weather!

Anyway without boring you with the rest of the conversation that went round and round, they basically aint touching it! The decision was based on about 2 pics that were taken when it was raining and very dull.....but that isnt my issue, the issue is 1) why cant my dealer (who can see and touch it) make a decision?! and 2) who makes a decision like that looking at some amatuer pics!?

Were do i stand?! should i just let this go and move on or what?!

On my new 350z (and this happend also to some other 350z owners in Switzerland) after the 350z was only ONCE left outside at minus degrees, the dampers from then on were no longer able to hold the hatch door open.

I talked to Nissan Switzerland and mentioned, that I am not the only one with this issue, but they refused to replace these dampers for free and even denied to have heard of similiar claims.

What about the English version then? As I have not found something about this theme in here, either the English version had different dampers or ...???

States: Perforation from corrosion Warranty. Covers inside to outside perforation.

6-12 Years Unlimited miles.

Now would the above be applicable for rust bubbles appearing? Would I be covered under this warranty to be looked at?

or have I just asked a daft question.

Cheers

Matt

Had my 350z for just over a week, purchased from a dealer 2 hours away

Found out today one of the y-pipe flexi's is blowing...

Can I expect the dealer to sort, or will I be putting my hand in my pocket? I have phoned today but the "boss" doesn't work over the weekend and I need to call back Monday morning

Cheers

Andy